3.&Q.  J^oo, 

0i  m Shwiogia/  * 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


% 


\ 


Purchased  by  the  Hamill  Missionary  Fund. 


Division 


F 23.1  3 


Section  4 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/venezuelalandwhe00curt_0 


VENEZUELA 


A LAND  WHERE  IT'S  ALWAYS  SUMMER 


BY 

WILLIAM  ELEROY  CURTIS 

AUTHOR  OF  “ THE  CAPITALS  OF  SPANISH  AMERICA  ” ETC. 


WITH  A MAP 


NEW  YORK 

HARPER  & BROTHERS  PUBLISHERS 

1896 


Copyright,  1S96,  by  Uaupkr  & Bruthbrs. 

All  right * reserved. 


TO 

GEORGE  KEPLER  CURTIS 

THIS  WORK 

IS  INSCRIBED  WITH  A FATHER’S  AFFECTION 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  Descriptive  and  Historical 1 

II.  The  Ancient  City  of  La  Gdayra 15 

III.  A Venezuelan  Watering-place 26 

IV.  A Remarkable  Railway 38 

V.  The  Capital  of  Venezuela 47 

VI.  The  Birthplace  of  South  American  Independence  . 63 

VII.  Simon  Bolivar,  the  Washington  of  South  America.  . 77 

VIII.  Guzman  Blanco,  and  Other  Rulers  of  Venezuela  . . 90 

IX.  Characteristics  of  Guzman  Blanco 107 

X.  The  Government  of  Venezuela 119 

XI.  The  Downfall  of  Guzman  Blanco 135 

XII.  Characteristics  of  the  People 151 

XIII.  Society  in  Caracas 162 

XIV.  The  Newspapers  of  Caracas 176 

XV.  Agriculture  in  Venezuela 184 

XVI.  Religion  in  Caracas 202 

XVII.  Along  the  Spanish  Main 214 

XVIII.  The  Valley  of  the  Orinoco 223 

XIX.  The  Disputed  Territory  in  Guiana 245 

Appendix  : 

Message  of  President  Cleveland  to  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States,  concerning  the  Venezuela  Boundary  Dis- 
pute   261 

Instructions  from  Secretary  Olnky  to  Ambassador  Bay- 
ard on  the  same  subject 265 

Reply  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury 291 

Index 311 


VENEZUELA 


CHAPTER  I 

DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 

On  the  20th  of  May,  1499,  a fleet  of  four  vessels  left 
the  harbor  of  Cadiz  bound  for  the  Indies.  It  had  been 
chartered  and  equipped  by  rich  merchants  of  Seville,  and 
was  commanded  by  a young  Castilian  knight  named 
Alonzo  de  Ojeda,  who  had  been  with  Columbus  on  his 
second  voyage,  and  whose  adventures  in  Hispaniola  were 
the  talk  of  all  Spain.  Second  in  command  was  Juan  de  la 
Cosa.  He  was  formerly  the  pilot  or  chief  mate  of  Colum- 
bus, and  comes  down  in  history  as  the  author  of  the  first 
map  of  the  New  World,  which  he  drew  upon  an  ox-hide. 
The  original  still  hangs  upon  the  walls  of  the  Marine 
Museum  in  Madrid. 

Another  of  the  party — whether  a passenger  or  a partner 
in  the  enterprise  is  not  wholly  clear — was  a Florentine  mer- 
chant with  a taste  for  geography  and  literature.  As  man- 
ager of  the  commission-house  of  Juanoto  Berardi  at  Seville 
he  had  furnished  the  supplies  for  Columbus’s  fleet,  and 
afterwards  obtained  an  official  position  under  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella.  They  called  him  the  Chief  Pilot  of  the 
Indies,  and  gave  him  a salary  of  about  §2000  gold,  which 
l 


VENEZUELA 


was  a large  sum  in  those  days.  It  was  his  duty  to  super- 
intend the  fitting  out  and  embarkation  of  vessels  that  were 
intending  to  cross  the  sea.  In  1501  he  wrote  an  elaborate 
account  of  this  voyage  and  a description  of  the  lands  he 
visited  for  the  information  of  Lorenzo  de’  Medici,  then 
reigning  at  Florence,  his  native  city.  It  was  published  in 
Latin,  Italian,  and  French,  and  a copy  fell  into  the  hands 
of  Martin  Waldseemiiller,  of  Saint-Die,  who  printed  it  as 
an  appendix  to  his  Cosmographia,  and  suggested  that  the 
author,  “being  a man  of  great  learning  and  sagacious 
mind,”  was  entitled  to  the  distinction  of  having  the  lands 
lie  described  called  by  his  name.  Acting  upon  this  impulse, 
Waldseemiiller  wrote  “America”  across  the  map,  where  it 
lias  since  remained. 

The  little  fleet  cruised  up  and  down  the  coast  of  South 
America  from  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco  to  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama,  and  when  it  entered  the  Lake  of  Maracaibo  the 
voyagers  found  the  natives  living  in  huts  of  palms  and 
rushes  built  over  the  water  and  supported  by  piles.  When- 
ever they  went  visiting  they  used  a canoe.  This  reminded 
the  eager  imagination  of  Americus  Vespucci  and  his  com- 
panions of  the  palaces  and  gondolas  of  Venice  ; hence  they 
called  the  country  Venezuela — Little  Venice — and  the  name 
has  clung  to  it  ever  since.  The  Maracaibo  Indians  still 
live  as  they  did  four  hundred  years  ago,  in  villages  built 
over  the  shallow  waters  of  the  lake,  but  they  speak  Spanish 
now,  and  are  pretty  well  civilized. 

Ojeda  established  the  first  colony  of  Europeans  upon 
the  continent  of  America  at  the  present  site  of  Cartha- 
gena,  Colombia,  where  there  is  a magnificent  harbor,  and 
placed  in  command  of  it  Francisco  Pizarro,  that  remarka- 
ble swineherd  who  afterwards  overthrew  the  Inca  empire  in 
Peru.  A little  farther  westward  another  village  was  lo- 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


3 


cated  in  charge  of  Nunez  de  Balboa,  who  discovered  the 
Pacific  Ocean  from  one  of  the  mountains  of  Darien, 
aDd  was  making  preparations  to  explore  it  when  he 
was  beheaded  by  a jealous  rival.  Pizarro  was  the  man 
who  arrested  Balboa,  his  friend  and  patron,  and  thus 
obtained  an  opportunity  to  explore  the  South  Seas  him- 
self. 

King  Ferdinand  made  Ojeda  governor  of  all  the  north 
coast  of  South  America.  He  called  it  New  Andalusia,  but, 
as  distinguished  from  the  islands,  it  was  better  known  as 
the  Spanish  Main.  After  enduring  hardships  and  suffer- 
ings for  which  modern  exploration  offers  no  comparison, 
Ojeda  was  driven  away  by  the  savages,  and  returned  bank- 
rupt and  broken-hearted  to  Santo  Domingo,  where  he  died 
soon  after,  begging  with  his  last  breath  to  be  buried  under 
the  threshold  of  the  cathedral,  that  all  who  passed  inward 
or  outward  might  tread  upon  his  bones. 

Columbus  explored  the  eastern  coast,  and  in  the  Gulf  of 
Paria,  where  were  extensive  oyster-beds,  he  found  pearls, 
which  with  the  natives  were  so  plentiful  as  to  be  considered 
of  little  value.  When  the  Spaniards  in  Santo  Domingo 
learned  this  they  rushed  across  the  Caribbean  Sea,  and 
treated  the  Indians  so  cruelly  that  all  the  aboriginal  tribes 
along  the  Spanish  Main  united  to  resist  the  invasion.  For 
forty  years  the  struggle  was  prolonged,  and  Charles  V.  as- 
sisted his  subjects  by  issuing  a royal  decree  that  the  native 
population  should  be  reduced  to  bondage.  It  was  his 
Christian  majesty’s  command  that  every  captured  Indian, 
man,  woman,  or  child,  should  he  branded  upon  the  forehead 
with  a hot  iron,  and  that  the  mark  should  be  the  initial  of 
his  own  name — the  letter  “C.”  Resistance  was  to  be  pun- 
ished with  death.  In  the  enforcement  of  this  order  the 
whole  north  coast  of  South  America  was  slippery  with  the 


4 


VENEZUELA 


blood  of  innocents,  who  died  by  thousands  defending  their 
lives  and  their  liberty. 

Charles  V.  once  sold  the  entire  province  to  the  Yelsers 
of  Augsburg,  who  were  the  richest  merchants  of  that  time, 
and  traded  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  They  agreed  to 
fortify  three  harbors  and  build  two  cities  within  two  years, 
and  to  send  over  an  army  and  colonies  of  emigrants,  pro- 
vided the  king  would  give  them  a grant  of  so  much  terri- 
tory, and  allow  them  to  enslave  the  natives.  They  made 
desperate  attempts  to  carry  out  their  part  of  the  contract, 
and  the  cruelties  Alfinger,  their  German  agent,  practised 
upon  the  Indians  surpassed  anything  of  which  the  Span- 
iards were  guilty.  To  prevent  the  unhappy  slaves  from 
escaping  he  chained  them  together  in  gangs  of  ten  or 
twelve,  with  iron  rings  welded  around  their  necks.  Thus 
they  marched  and  toiled  and  slept  together  until  death 
separated  them.  When  one  became  too  weak  to  work  or 
to  march  with  the  rest,  they  cut  his  head  off  with  a sword 
and  let  the  body  drop  out  to  save  the  trouble  of  driving 
the  whole  gang  to  a blacksmith. 

Finally  even  nature  rebelled,  and  a series  of  earthquakes 
and  hurricanes  reduced  all  the  young  settlements  to  ruins. 
The  Spanish  and  German  colonists  and  soldiers  died  in 
droves  from  starvation  and  the  fevers  they  caught  in  the 
swamps;  but  disease  and  suffering  rendered  them  only  the 
more  fierce  and  desperate,  and  for  every  European  that 
died  a thousand  of  the  aborigines  were  sacrificed.  The 
natives  were  almost  exterminated.  Those  who  survived 
were  driven  into  the  interior,  and  in  1567  Diego  de  Losa- 
da,  a Castilian  knight,  succeeded  in  locating  a colony  in 
the  beautiful  valley  behind  the  coast  range  of  mountains, 
and  called  it  Santiago  Leon  de  Caracas — St.  James,  the 
lion  of  Caracas — the  latter  being  the  name  of  the  Indian 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


5 


tribe  wbicb  bad  formerly  occupied  tliat  part  of  the  coun- 
try. 

For  two  hundred  and  forty  years  Venezuela  remained 
loyal  to  tbe  Spanish  crown  and  obeyed  the  orders  of  the 
captain-general  who  ruled  tbe  province  in  tbe  name  of  tbe 
king,  although  the  policy  of  tbe  government  was  selfish 
and  repressive.  Tbe  people  were  allowed  no  privileges. 
Tli£  ordinary  liberties  that  were  accorded  the  other  Amer- 
ican colonies  were  not  accorded  them.  They  were  not 
permitted  to  engage  in  manufacturing  nor  to  trade  with 
any  country  except  Spain.  Tbe  arts  and  sciences  and  all 
forms  of  industry  except  agriculture  were  discouraged,  and 
tbe  export  of  tbe  most  profitable  crops — sugar,  coffee,  and 
cocoa — was  retained  as  a government  monopoly.  Every 
producer  was  required  to  sell  bis  surplus  to  tbe  officials, 
who  fixed  their  own  prices.  Tbe  people  thus  found  it  to 
their  advantage  to  raise  no  more  than  was  actually  needed 
for  local  consumption.  Those  who  were  so  unfortunate  as 
to  accumulate  property  were  punished  by  excessive  taxa- 
tion and  forced  loans,  and  only  those  who  had  nothing 
were  left  unmolested  by  the  rapacious  representatives  of 
the  church  and  tbe  king.  Tbe  latter  were  paid  enormous 
salaries  and  allowed  whatever  perquisites  they  could  pick 
up  in  tbe  way  of  fines  and  penalties  and  plunder.  All  tbe 
officials  were  imported  from  Spain,  and  they  were  usually 
impecunious  favorites  at  court,  who,  after  two  or  three 
years  of  this  profitable  exile,  were  enabled  to  return  to 
Spain  with  comfortable  fortunes.  A large  military  garri- 
son and  police  force  were  maintained  at  tbe  expense  of 
the  colony  to  protect  the  officials  from  the  vengeance 
of  those  who  suffered  from  their  exactions;  few  public 
improvements  were  made ; tbe  people  were  kept  in  a state 
of  the  densest  ignorance  ; there  were  no  schools  outside 


6 


VENEZUELA 


the  monasteries  and  convents ; no  books  could  be  imported 
without  the  express  permission  of  the  captain-general,  and 
Venezuela  never  saw  a printing-press  until  after  the  revo- 
lution of  1811. 

This  oppressive  policy  prevailed  under  the  form  of  law 
until  the  intelligent  people  of  the  province  became  exas- 
perated, and  in  1806,  Francisco  Miranda,  who  had  served 
upon  the  staff  of  Washington  in  the  North  American  rev- 
olution, and  with  the  French  patriots  in  ’98,  raised  the 
standard  of  rebellion.  But  the  time  was  not  ripe.  Re- 
newed exactions  and  greater  oppression  followed  the  failure 
of  the  insurrection,  which  fanned  the  flame  of  revolt  and 
nourished  aspirations  for  liberty  until  July  5,  1811,  when 
an  assembly  of  the  most  responsible  and  influential  men  in 
Caracas  proclaimed  a republic  and  adopted  a constitution 
modelled  upon  that  of  the  United  States.  Ten  years  of 
bloody  war  ended  in  the  expulsion  of  the  Spanish  army  from 
the  province,  but  it  was  not  until  1847,  twenty -six  years 
later,  that  a treaty  of  peace  was  signed  and  the  govern- 
ment of  Spain  formally  acknowledged  the  independence  of 
Venezuela. 

The  Republic  of  Colombia,  which  was  composed  of  Ven- 
ezuela, New  Granada,  and  Ecuador,  under  the  presidency 
of  Simon  Bolivar,  fell  to  pieces  in  1830  after  his  death, 
and  Venezuela  organized  an  independent  government,  with 
the  conservative  or  clerical  party,  who  were  his  enemies, 
in  power.  They  were  overthrown  in  1847,  when  the  lib- 
eral party  secured  the  government  and  held  it  until  1858. 
During  this  period  Venezuela  made  great  progress  under 
the  administration  of  two  brothers,  Jose  Tadeo  and  Jose 
Gregorio  Monagas,  who  alternately  occupied  the  presiden- 
tial chair  for  several  terms.  Jose  Gregorio  emancipated 
the  slaves  in  1854,  nine  years  before  the  proclamation  of 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


7 


President  Lincoln,  and  also  suffered  a martyr’s  fate,  From 
1870  to  1889,  Antonio  Guzman  Blanco,  who  is  perhaps  the 
most  remarkable  man  the  republic  has  produced  except 
Bolivar,  ruled  with  a hand  of  iron  and  blood,  and,  actuated 
by  mixed  motives  of  pride  and  patriotism,  avarice  and 
vanity,  introduced  many  improvements.  Since  he  retired 
from  power  and  went  to  Paris  to  reside  he  has  attempted 
at  times  to  interfere  with  the  government,  with  disastrous 
results ; and  there  has  been  an  unfortunate  series  of  po- 
litical outbreaks,  occasioned  by  the  rivalry  of  ambitious 
individuals  rather  than  differences  concerning  administra- 
tive policy.  In  fact,  the  history  of  Venezuela,  since  that 
beautiful  land  was  discovered,  has  been  a prolonged  senes 
of  cruelties,  massacres,  wars,  and  revolutions,  with  brief 
intervals  of  peace  and  prosperity.  It  has  been  the  most 
turbulent  of  all  the  Latin-American  republics,  and  although 
the  scene  of  the  first  civilization  upon  the  American  con- 
tinent, and  the  first  to  declare  for  civil  liberty,  its  people 
have  been  allowed  to  enjoy  very  little  of  either. 

Venezuela  is  a little  more  than  twice  as  large  as  Texas. 
One  has  an  area  of  597,960  and  the  other  262,290  square 
miles.  It  has  1047  rivers,  of  which  436  are  affluents  of 
the  Orinoco,  and  230  empty  into  the  Caribbean  Sea.  Six 
of  these  rivers  are  navigable  for  large  steamers,  and  the 
Orinoco  is  the  second  in  size  in  South  America,  and  the 
fourth  river  of  the  world.  The  Amazon,  the  Mississippi, 
and  the  Yang-tse  of  China  only  surpass  it  in  length  and 
the  volume  of  water  carried  into  the  sea.  The  Orinoco  is 
three  miles  wide  at  a distance  of  600  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  at  the  city  of  Bolivar,  the  head  of  tide- water,  it  is 
sixty  fathoms  deep.  Venezuela  has  a coast-line  of  more 
than  2000  miles,  with  thirty-two  natural  harbors  and  fifty 
bays.  The  largest  of  these,  Lake  Maracaibo,  has  an  area 


8 


VENEZUELA 


of  2100  square  miles.  There  is  one  lake  in  the  interior 
near  Valencia,  at  an  elevation  of  1092  feet  above  the  sea, 
which  is  a natural  phenomenon,  and  covers  an  area  of  sixty- 
six  square  miles. 

There  are  three  systems  of  mountains : the  Andes, 
which  extend  to  the  coast  of  the  Caribbean  Sea,  have  sev- 
eral peaks  over  15,000  feet  high;  the  range  which  runs 
parallel  with  the  coast  nearly  the  entire  distance  attains 
its  greatest  height  near  Caracas,  and  may  be  seen  at  a 
distance  of  seventy  miles  at  sea;  the  Parima  range,  in 
the  interior,  traverses  the  country  east  and  west,  and  forms 
the  southern  limit  of  the  agricultural  zone.  Its  highest 
peak  reaches  about  8000  feet.  The  snow  line  in  Venezuela 
begins  at  13,570  feet  above  the  sea.  Beyond  that  altitude 
all  vegetation  ceases. 

About  one -third  of  the  entire  territory  is  agricultural 
land,  nearly  one  - half  is  pastoral,  and  the  remainder  is 
covered  with  forests  that  are  unmeasured  and  practically 
unexplored.  But  a very  small  proportion  of  the  agri- 
cultural land  is  under  cultivation,  most  of  it  along  the 
coast.  In  the  interior  are  vast  herds  of  cattle,  number- 
ing perhaps  ten  millions,  although  there  has  never  been 
an  accurate  census.  Sheep -raising  has  never  been  under- 
taken to  any  extent,  although  the  mountain  ranges  furnish 
good  pasturage. 

There  is  a choice  of  climate — three  zones,  as  they  are 
called,  varying  in  temperature  from  perpetual  summer  to 
eternal  winter.  Along  the  coast  is  the  first  zone,  or  tierra 
caliente,  where  the  thermometer  seldom  goes  below  85°  in 
the  shade,  and  usually  lingers  in  the  neighborhood  of  100°. 
This  is  the  land  of  the  banana,  the  pineapple,  the  sugar- 
cane, the  palm,  the  cocoa,  the  cocoanut,  and  the  orchid. 
The  next  zone  is  the  tierra  templada,  comprising  the  table- 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


9 


lands  and  foot-hills,  from  2000  to  7000  feet  in  altitude, 
where  the  climate  is  like  perennial  spring,  where  it  is  June 
from  January  to  December,  and  where  coffee  as  well  as  all 
the  fruits,  vegetables,  and  cereals,  of  the  temperate  latitude 
are  grown.  Then,  farther  up  the  Andes,  is  the  tierra  fria, 
on  the  edges  of  which  the  cattle  browse ; but  above  them 
snow  lies  always,  even  under  the  equatorial  sun. 

Beyond  the  mountains,  running  parallel  with  the  coast, 
is  the  Orinoco,  connected  with  the  Amazon  by  an  inter- 
secting stream.  It  drains  a third  of  the  continent,  and  its 
valley  is  one  of  the  richest  in  the  world,  although  developed 
to  but  a small  degree  and  partially  unexplored.  To  reach  the 
Orinoco  one  must  go  eastward  along  the  coast  to  the  Brit- 
ish island  of  Trinidad,  where,  at  the  town  of  Port-of-Spain, 
he  will  find  a steamer  sailing  weekly  through  one  of  the 
channels  of  the  delta  up  the  main  stream  to  the  several 
settlements  scattered  along  its  shores.  The  chief  of  them 
is  Ciudad  Bolivar,  formerly  known  as  Angostura,  which 
gave  its  name  to  a brand  of  popular  hitters.  Beyond  the 
Orinoco  to  the  southward  are  vast  forests  and  savannahs,  of 
extent  unknown  ; and  eastward,  nearer  the  Atlantic,  are  the 
mining  regions,  in  which  are  some  of  the  richest  deposits 
of  gold  in  the  world.  A journey  up  the  Orinoco  upon  one 
of  the  good  steamboats  that  ply  its  waters,  owned  by  Yan- 
kees and  manned  by  Yankee  crews,  is  as  fascinating  as  a 
voyage  up  the  Nile,  and  can  be  made  from  New  York  in 
about  six  weeks,  at  an  expense  of  not  more  than  three  or 
four  hundred  dollars. 

The  chief  towns  of  Venezuela  are  Caracas,  the  capital, 
and  La  Guayra,  its  seaport,  which  is  twenty-four  miles  by 
rail  around  a mighty  mountain  ; Valencia,  which  lies  upon 
a curious  lake,  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  natural  phe- 
nomena ; Puerto  Cabello,  where  Sir  Francis  Drake  died,  and 


10 


VENEZUELA 


was  dropped  into  tlie  water  with  a bag  of  shot  at  his  heels ; 
and  Maracaibo,  upon  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  from  which 
we  get  much  of  our  coffee. 

The  population  of  the.  republic  is  about  two  and  a half 
millions,  not  including  260,000  Indians,  who  are  mostly 
peaceful  ; and  there  are  nine  states,  one  federal  district, 
and  five  territories.  Six  states  are  named  in  honor  of  men 
who  have  been  conspicuous  in  their  history  — Bolivar, 
Falcon,  Miranda,  Lara,  Bermudez,  and  Zamora ; with  Ca- 
rabobo,  which  commemorates  the  winning  battle  for  inde- 
pendence, Zulia,  and  Los  Andes,  the  mountain  region. 
These  states  are  organized  and  governed  very  much  like 
those  of  our  own  country,  being  independent  in  the  man- 
agement of  their  own  local  affairs,  but  “ united  we  stand, 
divided  we  fall,”  so  far  as  they  relate  to  each  other. 

The  country  is  still  in  a primitive  and  comparatively 
undeveloped  condition.  Outside  the  principal  cities  and 
a few  isolated  sections  like  those  where  the  mines  are,  it 
has  made  little  progress  since  the  yoke  of  Spain  was  thrown 
off,  and  the  population  is  believed  to  be  less  than  it  was 
then. 

There  is  no  fever  to  dread,  for  that  is  confined  to  the 
jungles.  Near  Caracas,  where  the  Andes  turn  to  the  east- 
ward and  dip  their  feet  in  the  sea,  the  atmosphere  is  as 
pure  and  sweet  and  the  climate  as  healthful  as  can  be 
found  in  any  mountain  land.  The  coast  towns  are  hot,  al- 
ways; but  you  step  from  the  steamer  into  a railway  car, 
and  climb  the  foot-hills  over  railroads  that  are  triumphs  of 
engineering  skill  to  altitudes  where  the  temperature  is  sel- 
dom too  hot  and  never  too  cold,  and  scarcely  varies  more 
than  twenty  or  thirty  degrees  from  the  beginning  to  the 
end  of  the  year.  Sometimes  the  thermometer  rises  to  90° 
Fahrenheit,  and  it  may  dip  as  low  as  60°,  but  the  average 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


11 


is  75°,  spring,  summer,  autumn,  and  winter,  and  the  alter- 
nating breezes  from  the  mountains  and  the  sea  make  the 
climate  such  that  both  the  robust  and  the  delicate  may  en- 
joy it. 

Agricultural  and  industrial  development  has  been  re- 
tarded by  political  revolutions  and  a lack  of  labor  and  cap- 
ital, but  the  property  of  foreigners  who  do  not  meddle  with 
local  affairs  is  seldom  disturbed,  and  the  government  offers 
liberal  inducements  for  colonization  and  investment.  Man- 
ufacturing establishments  are  almost  unknown.  There  is 
very  little  machinery  in  the  country,  and  industry  is  gen- 
erally carried  on  in  the  households  and  by  the  most  primi- 
tive processes.  There  is  an  abundance  of  convenient  water- 
power, but  fuel  is  scarce  and  expensive.  Therefore  the 
future  wealth  of  Venezuela,  as  well  as  her  present  prosper- 
ity, lies  in  the  development  of  her  agricultural  resources, 
which  are  almost  boundless,  and  her  mineral  deposits,  which 
are  among  the  richest  and  most  accessible.  Coffee  is  the 
great  staple,  and  the  product  is  unsurpassed. 

Venezuela  is  the  great  cocoa-producing  country  of  the 
world,  and  the  Caracas  chocolate  has  no  superior. 

The  “Red  D”  line  of  steamers  connects  New  York  with 
the  Venezuelan  ports,  and  furnish  as  comfortable  accom- 
modations for  travellers  as  can  be  found  upon  any  except 
the  great  modern  Atlantic  vessels.  The  best  time  to  visit 
Venezuela  is  from  November  to  June.  There  are  only  two 
seasons,  the  wet  and  the  dry.  Nature  furnishes  a cloudless 
sky  for  six  months  in  the  year  and  a daily  shower  during 
the  other  six  months.  The  rains  commence  in  May  and 
last  until  November,  but  the  roads  are  generally  passable 
until  the  middle  of  June,  and  often  into  July.  From  No- 
vember until  May  not  a drop  of  water  falls.  The  people 
live  out-of-doors,  and  the  contrast  to  the  winter  in  New 


12 


VENEZUELA 


York  or  Chicago  is  very  agreeable,  particularly  to  those 
who  are  afflicted  with  pulmonary  or  bronchial  complaints. 
Caracas  is  said  to  have  the  most  even  temperature  and  de- 
lightful climate  of  all  the  cities  of  South  America,  with  the 
single  exception  of  Lima,  Peru.  The  two  places  are  about 
equidistant  from  the  equator,  about  the  same  distance 
from  the  sea,  and  both  are  sheltered  by  the  peaks  of  the 
Andes.  Although  Lima  possesses  the  greater  historical  in- 
terest, Caracas  is  the  more  accessible,  and  whoever  goes 
there  once  will  want  to  return. 

When  the  steamer  rounds  Sandy  Hook  the  bows  are 
pointed  for  the  little  channel  between  Cuba  and  Porto 
Rico,  called  the  Mona  (Monkey)  Strait.  Then  land  is 
seen  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  the  Jersey  coast — two 
low,  barren  islands,  and  then  a lifeless  rock  rising  out  of 
the  water.  The  course  is  changed  a little  to  the  westward, 
and  on  the  sixth  day  from  New  York  you  enter  one  of  the 
prettiest  little  harbors  surrounded  by  one  of  the  quaintest 
little  towns  in  the  world,  on  the  Dutch  island  of  Curagoa. 
It  looks  as  if  a fragment  of  Haarlem  or  Zaandam  had 
been  broken  off  and  floated  over,  as  they  say  the  corks  do 
from  the  coast  of  Spain.  It  is  cited  as  a curious  proof  of 
the  currents  of  the  Atlantic  that  the  fishermen  of  the 
Antilles  find  sufficient  cork  drifted  to  them  from  the  wine- 
growing towns  along  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay  to 
supply  their  nets,  and  that  a bottle  thrown  into  the  sea  anv- 
where  between  the  Yiga  in  Spain  and  the  River  Iambia 
in  Africa  will  float  steadily  and  regularly  so  many  miles  a 
day  until  the  surf  tosses  it  upon  the  beach  of  one  of  the 
West  India  islands. 

The  island  of  Curagoa  is  small  and  barren,  but  has 
played  an  important  part  in  the  history  of  Spanish  America. 
It  has  belonged  at  different  times  to  England,  Spain,  and 


DESCRIPTIVE  AND  HISTORICAL 


13 


Holland,  and  its  cosev  harbor  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a 
bloody  battle  between  the  navies  of  the  Old  World,  as  well 
as  between  the  pirates  and  buccaneers  that  infested  the 
Caribbean  Sea  for  two  centuries.  It  has  been  for  a hun- 
dred years  and  still  is  an  asylum  for  political  fugitives, 
and  many  of  the  revolutions  that  wrack  and  wreck  the 
republics  on  the  Spanish  Main  are  hatched  under  the 
shelter  of  the  pretentious  but  harmless  fortresses  that 
guard  its  port.  Bolivar,  Santa  Ana,  and  many  other 
famous  men  in  Spanish-American  history  have  lived  there 
ill  exile,  and  until  recently  there  was  an  imposing  castle 
upon  one  of  the  hills  called  Bolivar’s  Tower.  There  the 
founder  of  five  republics  lived  in  banishment  for  several 
years,  and  waited  for  rescue. 

The  houses  are  built  in  the  Dutch  style,  exactly  like 
those  of  Holland  ; the  streets  are  so  narrow  that  the  peo- 
ple can  almost  shake  hands  through  their  windows  with 
the  neighbors  across  the  way,  and  the  walls  are  as  thick 
as  would  be  needed  for  a fortress.  The  Dutch  governor 
lives  in  a solemn-looking  old  mansion  fronting  the  Shatte- 
gat,  or  lagoon  that  forms  the  harbor,  guarded  by  a com- 
pany of  stupid-looking  soldiers  with  a few  old-fashioned 
cannon.  The  entire  island  is  of  phosphates,  and  the  gov- 
ernment receives  a revenue  of  half  a million  dollars  from 
companies  that  ship  them  away.  There  is  not  a spring  or 
a well  or  any  fresh  water,  and  the  inhabitants  are  entirely 
Dependent  upon  rain-water  for  existence,  or  upon  supplies 
brought  in  barrels  by  schooners  from  the  Venezuelan 
coast,  ninety  miles  distant.  As  sometimes  it  doesn’t  rain 
for  a year  or  two  the  natural  supply  is  often  exhausted, 
and  a glass  of  imported  water  is  worth  as  much  as  the 
same  amount  of  wine  or  beer. 

Curagoa  gave  its  name  to  a celebrated  liqueur  that  was 


14 


VENEZUELA 


formerly  manufactured  from  the  peel  of  a peculiar  species 
of  orange  growing  there ; but  most  of  the  fruit  trees  have 
been  destroyed  by  the  droughts,  and  the  supply  now  comes 
from  other  of  the  West  India  islands. 

The  inhabitants  are  mostly  negroes.  A few  rich  mer- 
chants representing  all  nationalities  are  said  to  have  made 
their  money  by  smuggling.  It  is  a free  port.  No  duties 
of  any  sort  are  charged,  and  as  the  amount  of  merchandise 
imported  annually  is  about  twenty -five  times  as  much  as 
the  inhabitants  can  consume,  and  the  harbor  is  constantly 
filled  with  little  schooners  that  seem  to  be  always  loading 
and  unloading,  there  is  good  ground  for  a belief  that  a 
contraband  trade  with  the  main  coast  is  still  going  on. 
Each  steamer  leaves  enough  goods  upon  the  docks  at  Cu- 
racjoa  to  last  the  population  an  entire  year.  What  becomes 
of  it  is  a question  for  the  customs  officers  of  Venezuela 
and  Colombia  to  answer. 


CHAPTER  II 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 

“ So  Westward  IIo ! they  ran,  beneath  the  mighty  northern 
wall,  the  highest  cliff  on  earth,  some  nine  thousand  feet  of 
rock  parted  from  the  sea  by  a narrow  strip  of  bright  green 
lowland.  Here  and  there  a patch  of  sugar-cane  or  a knot 
of  cocoanut-trees  close  to  the  water’s  edge  reminded  them 
that  they  were  in  the  tropics ; but  all  above  was  savage, 
rough,  and  bare  as  an  Alpine  precipice.  Some  deep  clefts 
allowed  the  Southern  sun  to  pour  a blaze  of  light  down  to 
the  sea  marge,  and  gave  glimpses  far  above  of  strange  and 
stately  trees  lining  the  glens,  and  of  a veil  of  purple  mists 
that  shrouded  the  inner  summits.  While  up  and  down, 
between  them  and  the  mountain-side,  white,  fleecy  clouds 
hung  motionless  in  the  burning  air,  increasing  the  impres- 
sion of  vastness  and  of  solemn  rest  which  was  overpower- 
ing. 

“ And  now  the  last  point  is  rounded,  and  they  are  full  in 
sight  of  the  spot  in  quest  of  which  they  have  sailed  four 
thousand  miles : a low,  black  cliff  crowned  by  a wall,  a 
battery  at  either  end.  Within,  a few  narrow  streets  of 
white  houses  running  parallel  to  the  sea,  upon  a strip  of 
flat  which  seemed  not  two  hundred  yards  in  breadth,  and 
behind,  the  mountain  wall,  covering  the  whole  in  deepest 
shade.  How  that  wall  was  ever  ascended  to  the  inland 
was  a puzzle;  but  Drew,  who  had  been  off  the  place  before, 


16 


VENEZUELA 


pointed  out  to  them  a narrow  path,  which  wound  upward 
through  a glen,  seemingly  sheer  perpendicular.  That  was 
the  road  to  the  capital,  if  any  man  dared  try  it. 

“ In  spite  of  the  shadow  of  the  mountain,  the  whole  place 
wore  a glowing  and  dusty  look.  The  breaths  of  air  that 
came  off  the  land  were  utterly  stifling ; and  no  wonder,  for 
La  Guayra,  owing  to  the  radiation  of  that  vast  fire-brick  of 
heated  rock,  is  one  of  the  hottest  places  on  the  face  of  the 
whole  earth. 

“ Where  was  the  harbor?  There  is  none  ; only  an  open 
roadstead  wherein  lay,  tossing  at  anchor,  four  or  five  vessels. 
A half-mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  town,  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  up  the  steep  mountain-side,  stood  a large, 
low,  long,  white  house,  embosomed  in  trees  and  gardens. 
There  was  no  other  house  of  similar  size  near  by.  There 
was  no  room  for  one.  And  was  not  that  the  royal  flag  of 
Spain  that  flaunted  before  it  ? That  must  be  the  governor’s 
house,  the  abode  of  the  Rose  of  Torridge.” 

This  description  of  the  hot  and  quaint  old  city  of  La 
Guayra  is  copied  from  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of 
novels,  Westward  Ho!  by  the  Reverend  Charles  Kings- 
ley, and  its  descriptions  of  life  and  scenery  on  the  Spanish 
Main  are  unsurpassed.  La  Guayra  looks  to-day  just  as  he 
pictures  it  to  have  been  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
when  he  takes  his  hero,  Amyas  Leigh,  a brawny  English 
lad,  down  there  to  rescue  his  sweetheart,  who  has  been 
courted  and  coaxed  away  from  Devon  by  a Spanish  cavalier, 
the  Governor  of  Venezuela.  The  long,  low  house  is  still  a 
conspicuous  landmark,  but  it  is  not  so  isolated,  for  the 
town  is  larger  now  and  has  grown  towards  it,  and  a church 
of  modern  construction  rises  upon  the  breast  of  the  hill. 
But  the  same  gloomy  fortresses  remain,  and  have  been  the 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 


17 


prison  of  many  a patriot  in  the  three  hundred  years  of  war- 
fare Venezuela  has  suffered. 

The  town  has  not  only  been  the  subject  of  violent  strug- 
gles between  factions  contending  for  the  control  of  the 
government,  but  during  the  centuries  it  was  under  Spanish 
control  was  a favorite  target  for  pirates,  freebooters,  and 
British  fleets.  It  has  been  captured  and  looted  again  and 
again,  and  several  times  partially  destroyed,  for  the  for- 
tresses that  look  so  formidable,  sitting  upon  the  clefts  in  the 
mountain -side,  are  perfectly  harmless  unless  an  assailant 
will  be  so  considerate  as  to  remain  within  the  narrow  range 
of  the  guns.  They  can  protect  the  shipping  in  the  harbor, 
and  a good  portion  of  the  town,  but  there  is  nothing  to 
prevent  a belligerent  fleet  landing  its  crew  either  to  the 
east  or  to  the  west  of  them,  and  attacking  their  unpro- 
tected flanks.  One  can  go  ashore  anywhere  along  the 
coast  as  easily  as  at  the  city  of  La  Guayra,  and  General 
Guzman  Blanco  once  disembarked  an  army  in  plain  sight 
of  his  enemies  who  held  the  fortresses,  but  were  unable  to 
turn  their  guns  in  his  direction. 

The  town  owes  its  origin  to  a peculiar  cause — a quarrel 
between  one  of  the  early  Spanish  governors  and  the  inhab- 
itants of  a now  defunct  pueblo.  Losada,  who  founded  Ca- 
racas, in  1568  established  a city  on  the  coast  considerably 
to  the  westward,  which  he  called  Caravalleda.  At  his  sug- 
gestion the  Spanish  Cortes  and  the  Council  of  the  Indies 
granted  it  numerous  privileges  and  exemptions  not  enjoyed 
by  other  towns.  For  several  years  it  was  therefore  the 
most  prosperous  place  in  the  whole  colony  ; but  in  1586  the 
governor,  Don  Luis  de  Rojas,  a man  of  despotic  disposition, 
established  certain  regulations  which  the  citizens  refused  to 
tolerate.  Rather  than  submit  to  his  exactions  they  aban- 
doned their  homes  in  a body  and  moved  to  the  present  lo- 
2 


18 


VENEZUELA 


cation  of  La  Guayra,  leaving  the  tyrant  with  no  subjects  to 
rule. 

There  is  a fine  market-house,  a number  of  good  churches, 
an  indifferent  hotel,  and  several  narrow  streets  upon  which 
shops  and  warehouses  open.  But  the  most  notable  charac- 
teristic of  La  Guayra,  and  that  by  which  it  will  be  longest  re- 
membered, is  the  odors.  There  is  no  place  upon  the  wide 
earth  except  China  where  one  can  find  as  great  a variety, 
with  the  same  pungency,  and  their  vileness  surpasses  their 
numbers  and  force.  The  sweltering  heat,  which  never 
varies  in  darkness  or  in  daylight,  but  remains  about  100° 
Fahrenheit  from  one  year’s  end  to  the  other,  causes  decay 
in  everything  animal  and  vegetable,  and  the  odor  never 
leaves  the  air.  One  would  expect  the  city  would  cool  off 
at  sunset,  or  when  a shower  falls;  but  it  is  not  so.  I sat  per- 
spiring in  the  American  consulate  one  morning  listening  to 
an  animated  argument  on  this  subject  between  two  old 
residents,  one  of  whom  held  that  it  was  always  hotter  when 
it  rained,  because  of  the  steam  created  by  the  water  falling 
upon  the  glowing  earth  and  rocks,  the  other  claiming  that 
it  was  hotter  after  nightfall  than  during  the  sunny  hours 
of  the  day,  because  the  heat  radiated  from  the  rocky  preci- 
pices of  the  mountain  was  more  intense  than  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun. 

A former  American  consul  has  committed  to  verse  his 
sensations  upon  leaving  the  city,  and  the  lines,  though  of 
somewhat  irregular  metre,  possess  profound  and  truthful 
sentiment : 

“Adios  to  thee,  La  Guayra,  city  of  the  dark-eyed  gente,1 
And  of  tropic  muchness  and  dolce  far  niente, 

Home  of  the  wailing  donkey,  and  the  all-abounding  flea, 
Manana,  gracias  a Dios,2  I bid  adios  to  thee. 

3 To-morrow,  glory  to  God. 


1 Race. 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 


19 


“ Farewell,  ye  gloomy  casas,1  mejor  dicho 2 prison  cells, 

Ye  narrow,  crooked  calles,3  reeking  with  atrocious  smells, 

Ye  dirty  coffee-shops,  and  filthy  pulperias,4 
Stinking  stables,  dingy  patios,  and  fetid  carnerias.5 

“Where  beggars  ride  on  horseback  like  Spanish  cavaliers, 

And  vagabonds  perambulate  like  jolly  gamboliers, 

Where  lavenderas6  wash  your  ropa7  when  they  are  so  inclined, 
And  hotel  waiters  strut  around  with  shirt-tails  out  behind. 

“ Good-bye,  ye  Latin  greasers ; Su  atento  servidor,8 
Que  via  bien,  pues  adios,9  my  boat  is  on  the  shore. 

Oh,  dirty  people ! dirty  homes  ! oh  despicable  spot ! 

Departing  I will  bless  you  in  your  dirtiness  and  rot.” 

The  population  of  La  Guayra  is  composed  exclusively  of 
laboring  people  and  men  whose  business  requires  them  to 
reside  there.  Nobody  of  sound  mind  ever  selected  it  as  a 
place  of  residence,  and  every  one  gets  away  from  it  as  soon 
as  he  can.  But  it  is  said  to  be  a healthful  place,  the  rate 
of  mortality  being  comparatively  low,  and  the  inhabitants 
have  their  social  enjoyments  and  amusements,  like  their 
neighbors  in  more  comfortable  locations.  There  is  a thea- 
tre seating  a thousand  or  more  people,  and  a bull-ring,  sit- 
ting on  stilts  on  the  mountain-side,  in  which  the  inhabi- 
tants up  to  a recent  date  had  been  accustomed  to  gather 
every  Sunday  afternoon  and  on  religious  feast-days  to  wit- 
ness the  delectable  sport  which  has  degraded  the  Spanish 
race.  But  bull-fighting  of  late  has  been  prohibited  by  the 
government.  A gleam  of  humanity  has  broken  in  upon 
the  officials  if  not  upon  the  people,  and  the  animals  are  only 
teased,  not  tortured,  now. 

1 Houses.  2 No  better  than.  3 Streets.  4 Saloons. 

5 Butcher-shops.  6 Washer-women.  7 Clothing. 

8 “I  am  at  your  service” — a familiar  expression.  9 Good-bye. 


20 


VENEZUELA 


There  have  been  many  improvements  at  La  Guayra  in 
recent  years,  and  the  greatest  is  the  construction  of  a break- 
water, by  means  of  which  the  mighty  surf  which  continually 
beats  against  the  base  of  the  mountain  is  broken,  and  the 
passengers  who  arrive  by  steamer  can  now  land  with  some 
sort  of  comfort.  Formerly  they  were  compelled  to  leave 
the  steamer  in  lighters  which  were  run  through  the  surf  by 
gangs  of  naked  men  howling  like  savages.  The  construc- 
tion of  piers  has  increased  the  business  of  the  port,  and 
when  they  are  completed  according  to  the  plans  vessels  can 
moor  at  the  docks. 

At  the  foot  of  the  pier  is  a park  of  mango  and  palm 
trees,  sheltering  a fountain,  and  the  inevitable  statue  of 
Guzman  Blanco.  Behind  it  is  a monstrous  fortress-like 
structure,  which  has  served  for  many  years  as  a custom- 
house. The  walls  are  five  feet  thick,  bomb  and  earthquake 
proof,  and  have  many  a time  resisted  both  these  destruc- 
tives. Like  all  business  houses,  as  well  as  the  residences 
of  the  place,  it  is  built  in  the  old  Spanish  style,  surround- 
ing a court-yard,  which  is  reached  through  an  arched  gate- 
way, the  only  entrance  to  the  building.  The  rooms  upon 
the  ground-floor  are  used  for  storage,  and  all  imported  mer- 
chandise is  brought  there  on  tram-cars  from  the  docks,  to 
be  opened  and  examined.  A grand  staircase  leads  to  a 
wide  balcony  from  which  the  upper  rooms  are  reached,  and 
they  are  used  for  the  accommodation  of  the  collector,  his 
deputies,  and  clerks.  The  former  usually  resides  in  the 
building,  and  there  is  a handsomely  furnished  suite  of  rooms 
set  apart  for  the  accommodation  of  the  president  or  any 
other  high  official  who  may  be  detained  at  La  Guayra  over- 
night. 

This  building  has  been  the  bone  of  contention  between 
the  rival  parties  in  Venezuela  ever  since  the  separation  of 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 


21 


the  republic  from  Spain,  for  the  revenues  from  customs  at 
the  port  of  La  Guayra  are  the  principal  sustenance  of  the 
government,  and  the  faction  that  collects  them  has  the  sin- 
ews of  war.  Everything  is  taxed,  both  exports  and  im- 
ports, and  the  tariff  is  for  revenue  only.  Every  passenger 
who  lands  or  leaves  has  to  pay  tribute,  not  only  upon  the 
merchandise  he  brings  with  him,  but  in  the  form  of  head- 
money  for  a permit,  without  which  he  is  not  allowed  to  land 
or  go  aboard  a steamer. 

Travellers  who  conform  to  the  regulations  do  not  suffer 
inconvenience,  but  if  they  attempt  to  evade  them  they  will 
regret  it.  Upon  our  steamer,  when  we  were  coming  away, 
was  a smart  young  Hebrew  from  Philadelphia,  who  thought 
he  would  save  half  a dollar.  The  anchor  of  the  vessel  had 
been  raised  to  the  deck,  and  she  was  turning  for  her  north- 
wardly course,  when  the  custom-house  boat  was  seen  to 
leave  the  dock  with  a signal  to  wait  for  her.  She  came 
alongside,  and  in  answer  to  the  inquiry  of  the  captain  the 
officer  in  charge  announced  that  a certain  passenger  whose 
name  he  gave  had  not  obtained  a permit.  The  agents  of 
the  steamship  company  are  required  to  furnish  the  customs 
officers  a list  of  persons  to  whom  tickets  have  been  sold,  and 
upon  comparing  it  with  the  list  of  permits  issued  it  was 
discovered  that  he  had  taken  none.  The  purser  soon  found 
him,  and  handed  him  down  to  the  officer  with  his  luggage. 
The  young  man  did  not  look  so  cheerful  as  he  did  a few 
minutes  before,  when  he  was  relating  how  he  had  evaded 
the  duty,  and  wTeut  back  to  La  Guayra,  where,  while  wait- 
ing ten  days  for  the  next  steamer,  he  had  time  to  reflect 
upon  the  folly  of  trifling  with  the  law. 

This  system  of  permits  is  not  a bad  thing,  after  all,  for 
it  is  impossible  for  any  one  to  leave  the  country  without 
the  knowledge  of  the  authorities,  and  “ no  guilty  man  can 


22 


VENEZUELA 


escape.”  There  is  very  little  crime  in  Venezuela,  and  the 
business  of  the  courts  is  almost  exclusively  to  try  civil 
cases  and  cases  of  assault.  Embezzlements  and  robbery 
are  almost  unknown,  and  locks  are  practically  useless,  for 
if  a man  should  rob  his  neighbor’s  house  he  would  be  cer- 
tain of  detection,  and  it  would  be  impossible  for  him  to 
leave  the  country  with  his  booty.  In  one  of  the  large  mer- 
cantile establishments  which  might  be  named  it  is  the 
custom  to  keep  several  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold 
and  silver  currency,  to  pay  for  produce,  stored  in  ordinary, 
old-fashioned  safes  that  might  be  opened  with  an  ordinary 
crow-bar.  No  watchman  is  employed,  and  the  building  is 
entirely  unprotected  ; but  although  this  amount  of  money 
has  been  kept  habitually  in  the  office,  and  people  generally 
know  it  is  there,  no  attempt  at  robbery  has  ever  been  made, 
and  none  is  anticipated.  Millions  of  dollars  of  coin  are 
transported  about  the  country  annually  upon  the  backs  of 
donkeys  and  in  ox-carts,  with  no  guard  but  the  ignorant 
peons  who  own  and  drive  them,  and  at  night  their  precious 
cargoes  stand  in  the  open  air ; but  not  a dollar  has  ever 
been  stolen.  The  peons  would  not  know  what  to  do  with 
the  money  if  they  did  steal  it,  and  there  is  no  fear  of  their 
doing  so. 

Sometimes,  when  revolutions  have  been  in  progress, 
shipments  of  coin  have  been  seized  by  insurgents,  but  when 
such  danger  exists  no  risk  is  taken.  In  the  mining  districts 
the  bullion  is  sent  to  the  seaports  in  a similar  way,  and 
thousands  of  dollars  are  moving  constantly.  There  is  but 
one  instance  within  the  recollection  of  the  oldest  inhabi- 
tant in  which  it  has  been  disturbed.  That  happened  some 
years  ago,  when  an  unusually  large  amount  was  in  transit 
from  the  famous  Callao  mine  in  the  Guiana  country  to 
the  steamboat-landing  on  the  Orinoco  River.  A Yankee 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 


23 


adventurer,  with  several  rascals  of  his  own  stripe,  con- 
cluded he  would  take  the  short  road  to  wealth,  and  met 
the  treasure  train  in  a convenient  locality.  The  peons  in 
charge  of  it  were  unarmed  and  offered  no  resistance.  In  fact, 
they  were  paralyzed  with  amazement  that  any  one  should 
dare  to  interfere  with  them,  so  the  thieves  were  permitted 
to  have  their  own  way.  But  they  could  not  travel  fast  with 
their  heavy  plunder,  and  were  easily  overtaken  by  the 
police,  who  simplified  and  shortened  matters  by  shooting 
them  down  in  their  tracks,  and  leaving  their  bodies  upon 
the  road-side  for  the  vultures  to  fatten  upon. 

Nor  is  there  any  danger  ever  to  the  traveller  on  the  high- 
ways as  in  the  case  of  some  of  the  Latin-American  coun- 
tries. It  is  not  uncommon  to  meet  a drunken  and  quarrel- 
some fellow  on  the  road,  and  it  is  safer  to  keep  out  of  his 
reach,  but  he  will  do  no  injury  except  when  interfered 
with;  and  when  drunk  the  Venezuelan  peon  is  more  apt  to 
trouble  strangers  with  demonstrations  of  affection  than 
violence. 

There  is  comparatively  little  drunkenness  among  the 
people.  They  have  light  native  liquors  made  of  fruits  and 
the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane,  which  intoxicate  easily,  but 
when  the  fumes  of  the  alcohol  have  left  the  brain  there 
is  no  serious  effect  like  that  which  follows  brandies  and 
other  strong  drinks.  Among  the  upper  classes  there  are 
wild  fellows  who  drink  too  much,  of  course,  but  few 
countries  are  so  free  from  intemperance  as  Venezuela. 

Among  other  curiosities  in  La  Guayra  is  a church  that 
was  built  from  the  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  lottery-tickets, 
and  notwithstanding  what  we  in  the  United  States  would 
consider  a questionable  source  of  revenue,  the  temple  is 
the  finest  in  the  place,  has  the  most  prosperous  parish, 
and  has  withstood  the  shocks  of  several  earthquakes 


24 


VENEZUELA 


that  have  done  serious  damage  to  other  houses  of  wor- 
ship. 

There  are  numerous  lotteries  in  Venezuela,  and  they  are 
under  the  patronage,  or  at  least  the  protection,  of  the  gov- 
ernment. The  prizes  are  not  large,  and  the  prices  of  tick- 
ets are  proportionately  small.  Drawings  generally  take  place 
on  days  of  religious  festivals,  from  which  the  lotteries  de- 
rive their  names,  and  are  said  to  he  honestly  conducted. 
These  days  are  selected  because  all  work  is  suspended,  and 
the  peons  are  usually  flush  with  money,  having  been  paid 
off  the  evening  before.  The  patrons  are  almost  exclu- 
sively the  common  people,  although  now  and  then  the 
ladies  of  the  upper  classes  secretly  invest  in  tickets  through 
their  servants.  The  latter  stop  on  their  way  to  market 
feast  - day  mornings  to  purchase  tickets  at  the  bazaars  or 
from  the  women  and  boys  who  peddle  them  on  the  street. 

Occasionally  some  lucky  person  draws  a good  prize 
which  makes  him  independent  for  life,  or  enables  him  to 
engage  in  some  lucrative  business.  A friend  in  Caracas 
one  day  took  me  into  a bodega , or  grocery,  kept  by  a 
former  servant  in  his  family  who  got  his  capital  as  a prize 
in  a lottery. 

There  is  another  church  in  La  Guayra  which  is  said  to 
have  been  erected  with  the  proceeds  of  fines  imposed  upon 
the  people  of  the  parish  who  profaned  their  conversation 
with  the  word  “Caramba” — the  common  oath  among  all 
classes  of  people — or  stronger  equivalents.  The  church  is 
therefore  called  “ La  Iglesia  de  la  Sanctissima  Caramba.” 
This  word  is  meaningless,  but  is  constantly  in  the  mouths  of 
all  people,  without  regard  to  sex  or  condition,  and  is  not 
usually  considered  reprehensible.  But  now  and  then  a 
pious  priest  will  be  found  who  prohibits  its  use  among  the 
sheep  and  lambs  of  his  flock. 


THE  ANCIENT  CITY  OF  LA  GUAYRA 


25 


A story  is  told  of  three  pious  friars  who  were  travelling 
along  a hot  and  dusty  road  one  day,  driving  a donkey 
which  bore  their  luggage.  The  beast  became  obstinate, 
and  finally  lay  down  in  the  dirt,  much  to  the  damage  of 
their  property.  One  of  them,  more  impulsive  than  the 
rest,  forgot  himself  so  far  as  to  utter  the  first  syllable  of 
the  forbidden  expletive,  and  said  “ Car.”  The  second  ex- 
claimed “ram,”  and  the  third  “ ba,”  which  completed  the 
unholy  word,  and  they  thus  expressed  their  sentiments 
jointly  without  imperilling  their  souls. 


CHAPTER  III 

A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 

Around  the  corner  from  La  Guayra,  as  one  might  say — 
that  is,  upon  the  other  side  of  the  cape  that  juts  out  sharp- 
ly from  the  base  of  the  great  mountain  into  the  ocean — is 
the  little  village  of  Macuto,  the  favorite  watering-place  and 
the  only  sea-side  resort  in  Venezuela.  There  are  some 
springs  on  the  road  from  Puerto  Cabello  to  Valencia  that 
are  much  frequented  by  those  afflicted  with  rheumatism 
and  similar  complaints,  but  the  fashionable  people  never 
think  of  going  there  unless  they  are  ill.  Macuto  is  the 
Saratoga,  the  Newport,  and  the  Coney  Island  of  Venezuela 
combined.  During  the  winter  season  it  is  very  comforta- 
ble, and  much  resorted  to  by  the  people  of  the  mountain 
towns.  Although  the  town  lies  but  six  miles  from  La 
Guayra,  and  upon  the  same  beach,  the  temperature  is  many 
degrees  lower,  and  the  difference  may  be  said  to  measure 
the  effect  of  the  radiated  heat  of  the  western  sun  upon  the 
bare  rocks  of  the  mountains. 

Macuto  is  sheltered  from  this  sun  by  the  cape  I have 
spoken  of,  and  gets  the  northeasterly  breezes,  which  are  the 
most  common  in  that  latitude.  When  the  thermometer 
reads  a hundred  in  the  shade  at  La  Guayra,  in  Macuto  it  is 
not  more  than  eighty  or  eighty -five.  The  nights  are  cool, 
the  air  is  pure  and  sweet,  and  fresh  odors  are  borne  down 
from  the  foliage  on  the  mountain-side,  in  the  deep  barrancas 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


27 


or  ravines.  The  two  places  are  connected  by  a boulevard 
along  the  beach,  neither  so  well  made  nor  so  well  kept  as  the 
drive  at  Long  Branch,  but  quite  as  beautiful,  and  much 
more  picturesque,  for  on  one  side  is  the  restless  ocean, 
rolling  up  in  great  billows  that  break  in  foam  upon  the 
shore,  and  on  the  other  the  mighty  mountain  rising  nearly 
9000  feet  abruptly  and  almost  perpendicularly  into  the 
clouds. 

This  mountain,  La  Silla  (the  saddle),  so  called  because 
of  the  shape  of  its  summit,  presents  one  of  the  sublimest 
spectacles  that  can  be  seen  upon  the  earth’s  surface.  It  is 
the  loftiest  peak  that  arises  anywhere  directly  from  the  sea. 
There  are  higher  mountains  in  the  Andean  chain  ; Chim- 
borazo is  21,000  feet,  Aconcagua  23,000,  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  de  la  Santa  Marta,  300  miles  to  the  westward  of 
La  Guayra,  is  17,500  feet  high;  but  they  rise  gradually 
from  a group  of  foot-hills  and  beyond  broad  stretches 
of  tableland,  while  La  Silla  springs  directly  from  the 
ocean.  The  peak  which  approaches  nearest  it  in  grandeur 
is  on  the  little  island  of  Teneriffe,  but  that  is  nearly  1000 
feet  less  in  altitude.  The  reader  can  judge  of  the  spectacle 
by  imagining  Pike’s  Peak  situated  at  Long  Branch,  with 
only  a few  hundred  feet  of  roadway  between  the  billows 
and  its  base. 

There  is  also  a tramway  between  La  Guayra  and  Macuto, 
over  which  trains  of  cars  are  drawn  by  a little  “ dummy  ” 
engine,  and  the  trip  can  be  made  hourly  in  thirty  minutes. 
When  Guzman  Blanco  was  president  he  did  much  to  beau- 
tify Macuto,  and  built  himself  a handsome  residence  there. 
His  example  was  followed  by  many  of  the  wealthy  citizens 
of  Caracas,  and  there  is  a large  mansion  erected  by  Gen- 
eral Crespo,  but  the  accommodations  for  the  public  are  still 
of  a primitive  character,  and  the  natural  advantages  of  the 


28 


VENEZUELA 


place  Lave  by  no  means  been  utilized  to  their  full  ex- 
tent. 

The  hotels,  like  the  houses,  are  built  in  the  Spanish  style, 
and  the  purpose  seems  to  have  been  to  shut  out  as  much  air 
and  light  as  possible,  and  to  prevent  the  occupants  from 
enjoying  a view  of  either  the  mountains  or  the  ocean.  In 
fact,  the  main  street,  the  boulevard  along  the  beach,  is  giv- 
en up  entirely  to  low  bodegas,  or  groceries,  while  the  bet- 
ter class  of  hotels  and  the  residences  of  the  wealthy  people 
are  situated  back  on  narrow  streets,  where  the  cool  breezes 
would  find  difficulty  in  reaching  them  even  if  they  were 
constructed  in  the  proper  way. 

The  outer  walls  are  thick  enough  for  a fortress,  and  gen- 
erally windowless.  The  rooms  open  upon  wide  corridors, 
like  the  cloisters  of  a monastery,  and  these  enclose  a patio 
or  court-yard  paved  with  cement.  The  bedrooms  are  like 
prison  cells,  with  no  light  or  ventilation  except  such  as  can 
be  filtered  through  the  doors,  which  have  panes  of  glass 
set  in  the  upper  panels.  In  the  dry  season  the  patio  is 
used  for  a dining-room,  and  when  it  rains  the  tables  are 
spread  along  the  corridors.  The  parlor,  or  common  sit- 
ting-room, is  the  only  apartment  with  windows  upon  the 
street,  and  the  natives  usually  avoid  it  for  fear  of  draughts, 
which  they  believe  are  certain  to  bring  fever  to  those  ex- 
posed to  them. 

The  first-class  hotels  are  generally  well  kept,  and  furnish 
a good  table,  and  there  are  several  restaurants  at  which  one 
can  get  breakfast  or  dinner  if  he  only  comes  to  spend  the 
day  ; but  the  guests  are  expected  to  sleep  upon  canvas 
cots,  which,  according  to  the  prevalent  superstition  of  the 
country,  are  more  healthful  than  mattresses  and  wire  springs, 
besides  affording  less  shelter  for  divers  and  sundry  species 
of  the  insect  family,  which,  I am  compelled  to  say,  show 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


29 


more  enterprise  and  industry  than  any  other  class  of  in- 
habitants. But  no  one  visiting  tropical  countries  can  es- 
cape the  assiduous  attentions  of  these  little  pests.  They 
are  no  more  numerous  than  in  Italy  or  Spain  or  Turkey, 
and  the  domesticated  bugs  of  Venezuela  are  not  nearly  so 
multitudinous  and  annoying  as  those  that  infest  the  Havana 
hotels.  Mosquitoes  are  rare,  for  there  are  no  swamps  or 
other  malarial  fountains  in  that  part  of  the  republic.  Up 
the  Orinoco  River  one  finds  them  in  plenty,  and  of  prodig- 
ious size,  but  on  the  coast  they  seldom  appear. 

There  are  no  comforts  in  the  hotel  bedrooms,  and  few 
conveniences ; usually  only  a wash-stand,  with  pitcher  and 
bowl,  a monstrous  wardrobe,  a cot,  and  one  or  two  ordinary 
chairs.  The  floor  is  covered  with  cocoa  matting,  or  else  is 
bare,  for  carpets  attract  and  shelter  fleas  and  other  insects. 
The  guests  never  use  their  rooms  for  any  purpose  except 
sleeping  and  dressing,  and  spend  most  of  their  time  in  the 
patio  or  the  open  air. 

There  is  a large  fortune  awaiting  the  man  who  will  go 
there  and  erect  a modern  hotel  upon  the  sea-front,  with 
plenty  of  windows  and  balconies  and  comfortable  beds 
and  chairs.  The  natives  appreciate  and  enjoy  comforts  as 
much  as  anybody,  and  spend  their  money  lavishly  for  the 
luxuries  of  life,  but  lack  the  experience  and  enterprise  nec- 
essary to  undertake  such  things.  There  are  no  architects 
in  the  country,  and  the  native  carpenters  and  masons  know 
nothing  of  the  science  of  modern  building,  but  construct 
everything  as  their  grandfathers  and  their  great-grand- 
fathers did  in  the  time  of  Spanish  domination.  The  gov- 
ernment would  gladly  give  the  necessary  land  for  a mod- 
ern hotel,  and  would  admit  free  all  the  materials,  which  is 
an  important  matter  where  building-lumber  costs  a hundred 
dollars  a thousand  feet.  The  timber  of  the  country  is  all 


30 


VENEZUELA 


hard  and  heavy.  There  is  no  pine  or  ash,  hut  only  ma- 
hogany, lignum  - vitae,  and  similar  trees,  with  here  and 
there  a Spanish  cedar  or  Cyprus,  which  are  scarce  and  ex- 
pensive. Most  of  the  native  furniture  is  of  cedar  and 
mahogany.  A modern  hotel  at  Macuto  of  a hundred  or  a 
hundred  and  fifty  rooms,  two  stories  high,  and  furnished 
with  light  ash  or  oak  bedroom  sets,  would  be  about  as 
profitable  an  investment  as  could  be  made  anywhere, 
and  would  be  full  of  guests  the  whole  year  round.  Not 
only  the  material,  hut  the  builders  and  servants  must  be 
imported,  and  it  must  be  conducted  upon  the  American 
plan. 

The  fashionable  season  at  Macuto  is  from  November  to 
March,  during  the  dry  weather,  but  there  is  little  differ- 
ence in  the  temperature  the  whole  year  round,  and  the 
hotels  are  always  open.  I cannot  imagine  a more  agreeable 
place  for  a winter’s  sojourn  for  people  who  want  to  escape 
the  rigors  of  a Northern  latitude.  The  climate  is  much 
more  agreeable  than  that  of  Cuba  or  Mexico  or  Florida. 
It  is  more  like  that  of  Nice  or  Naples,  and  other  towns 
along  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  novelties  of  life  in  Span- 
ish America  cannot  be  realized  or  appreciated  until  one 
has  tried  them.  There  are  large  and  comfortable  steamers 
running  to  and  from  New  York  every  ten  days,  the  mails 
are  regular,  there  is  cable  communication,  and  those  who 
wish  to  visit  the  islands  of  the  Caribbean  Sea  and  the 
ports  along  the  Spanish  Main  can  go  and  come  upon  Euro- 
pean vessels  nearly  every  day.  The  expense  and  time  re- 
quired are  much  less  than  for  a European  tour,  and  those 
who  are  tired  of  Europe  will  find  there  new  and  novel 
scenes  and  experiences. 

Bathing  is  excellent  the  entire  year,  and  the  surf  is  un- 
surpassed. At  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  boulevard  that 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


31 


connects  Macuto  with  La  Guayra,  a miniature  castle  of 
stone  has  been  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  bathers, 
which  is  reached  by  a pier  from  the  shore.  You  pay  five 
cents  for  a ticket,  which  admits  you  to  the  bath-house,  and 
gives  you  the  use  of  the  dressing-rooms  and  towels.  A 
large  area  has  been  enclosed  by  piles,  as  a protection  to 
reckless  bathers,  and  the  surf  breaks  over  them.  The  en- 
closure is  divided  in  halves  by  a stone  wall,  one  side  being 
used  by  the  men,  and  the  other  by  the  women.  Very  few 
people  of  either  sex  use  bathing-dresses,  but  go  into  the 
water  au  naturel.  They  throw  a sheet  around  them  as 
they  leave  the  dressing-room,  and  bang  that  upon  a line  as 
they  go  down  the  stone  steps  into  the  water.  Beyond  the 
piles  the  sea  is  very  deep.  Two  or  three  hundred  feet  from 
the  shore  the  bottom  drops  a hundred  fathoms,  and  a mile 
out  it  is  said  to  be  three  or  four  thousand  feet  deep. 

Sunday  is  the  gala  day  at  Macuto,  as  it  is  all  over  the 
Southern  continent;  not  only  for  rest  and  recreation,  but 
for  pleasure.  The  bull-fights  are  on  Sunday  afternoon,  and 
the  best  operas  are  given  on  the  evening  of  that  day,  as 
well  as  the  formal  dinner-parties  and  balls.  Sunday  after- 
noons the  ladies  are  expected  to  remain  at  home  and  keep 
open  house  to  receive  gentlemen  callers,  and  from  sunrise 
to  midnight  on  the  Sabbath  all  classes  of  people  give  them- 
selves up  to  uninterrupted  enjoyment.  The  stranger  from 
countries  where  the  Fourth  Commandment  is  observed  will 
be  at  first  shocked  at  the  license,  but  soon  becomes  used 
to  it,  and  after  a few  weeks  falls  in  with  the  customs  of 
the  country.  No  peon  will  work  on  the  Sabbath  unless  he 
receives  double  wages,  and  if  a person  happens  to  be  leav- 
ing by  the  train  that  day,  he  will  do  well  to  send  his  bag- 
gage to  the  station  Saturday  night,  because  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  hire  a cart  or  a cargadore  before  Monday  morning. 


32 


VENEZUELA 


The  women  rise  early  on  Sunday  for  six-o’clock  mass, 
and  if  they  are  very  pious  they  go  again  at  ten  o’clock ; 
but  men  folks  rarely  exert  themselves  to  attend  church,  and 
leave  all  religious  duties  to  be  performed  by  their  wives, 
sisters,  or  daughters.  One  generally  finds  twenty  or  thirty 
women  in  a church  for  every  man,  but  on  the  steps  and 
walks  outside  there  is  usually  a fair  congregation  of  the 
male  sex  of  all  ages  and  degrees  of  respectability,  who  as- 
semble to  watch  the  fair  senoritas  as  they  enter  and  come 
away.  There  is  a Faust  for  every  Marguerita,  and  a Mepli- 
istopheles  for  every  Martha. 

As  Macuto  is  really  the  only  pleasure  resort  in  the  coun- 
try, it  is  invariably  crowded  on  the  Sabbath-day  with  every 
sort  and  condition  of  people,  who  come  from  all  the  towns 
around  for  a day’s  outing.  The  wealthier  classes  take  to 
the  hotels  or  visit  friends  who  happen  to  have  houses,  while 
the  peons  fill  the  bodegas  along  the  sea-shore,  where 
they  drink  chica,  pulque,  arguadiente,  and  other  forms  of 
fire-water,  and  have  a good  time,  just  as  their  brothers 
and  sisters  in  Europe  and  North  America  under  similar 
circumstances.  They  talk  politics  and  gossip  about  their 
neighbors,  the  discussions  sometimes  ending  in  embra- 
cios  and  sometimes  in  blows;  but  they  arc  not  naturally 
quarrelsome,  and  do  not  require  so  many  policemen  to  keep 
them  in  order  as  the  same  number  of  laboring  people  in 
the  Northern  zones. 

So  far  as  labor  is  concerned,  Sunday  is  observed  in 
Venezuela  to  a greater  extent  than  in  any  other  South 
American  country  I have  ever  visited.  The  market  is  al- 
ways open  until  noon — and  Sunday  is  the  great  day  of  the 
week  for  the  hucksters — and  the  grocery  establishments, 
the  panderias,  or  bakeries,  and  the  lecher ias,  or  dairy  stores, 
are  usually  open  for  a while  in  the  morning  to  permit  peo- 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


33 


pie  to  purchase  food ; but  by  eleven  o’clock  every  door  is 
shut  and  every  blind  closed,  and  you  cannot  induce  a peon 
to  do  any  kind  of  labor.  I saw  but  one  man  at  work  in 
Caracas.  He  was  trimming  the  grass  in  front  of  a church 
while  the  people  were  passing  in  to  mass,  and  the  tones  of 
the  priest  were  plainly  audible  as  he  chanted  prayers.  I 
asked  the  peon  if  he  didn’t  know  it  was  wicked  to  work 
on  Sunday,  especially  in  sight  of  a church  when  service 
was  fjoino-  on. 

There  was  a comical  twinkle  in  his  eye  as  he  looked  up 
into  my  face,  and  said  : 

u Su  benedicion,  senorito  (bless  you,  little  master!),  you 
don’t  suppose  I am  working  because  I want  to  ! The 
trouble  is  that  last  night  the  patron  [a  common  term  for 
employer]  gave  me  money  to  buy  sugar-cane  for  the  mules, 
and  I accidentally  spent  it  for  beer.  The  miserable  ani- 
mals have  nothing  to  eat,  and  the  patron  said  I must  get 
them  something  or  go  to  the  calabozo.  So  I came  here 
where  I can  cut  the  grass  and  say  my  prayers  at  the  same 
time.” 

The  life  of  the  hidalgo  and  his  dona  at  the  fashionable 
hotel  is  about  as  monotonous  as  that  of  the  visitors  at  Sar- 
atoga or  Long  Branch.  The  desayuno , or  breakfast — which 
means  coffee,  rolls,  and  cheese — is  served  upon  a long  table 
in  the  patio,  or  in  the  corridor,  from  six  to  eight  in  the 
morning.  The  ladies  creep  out  of  their  cells  early,  hastily 
dressed  in  plain  black  garments,  and,  after  gulping  down  a 
few  mouthfuls  of  coffee  and  nibbling  a little  bread,  rush 
off  to  mass,  while  their  lazy  lords,  clad  in  white  duck,  pat- 
ent-leather shoes,  and  panama  hats,  creep  out  at  their  lei- 
sure, and  sit  for  an  hour  around  the  table,  sipping  their 
coffee  and  eating  their  rolls  and  cheese  with  a deliberation 
that  is  evidence  of  a holiday.  Then  they  lounge  about  the 

3 


34 


VENEZUELA 


patio  and  parlor,  smoking  cigarettes  until  the  ladies  return 
from  mass  with  the  latest  gossip  picked  up  from  the  neigh- 
bors they  have  met  on  the  way.  This  enlivens  the  con- 
versation, which  grows  brisk  and  interesting.  The  engage- 
ment of  sweet  Mercedes  to  one  of  the  fast  young  men  from 
Caracas  is  discussed  with  animation,  and  all  of  his  previous 
love-affairs  and  adventures  are  recalled  by  one  or  another. 
The  girls  he  has  jilted  receive  their  share  of  attention  and 
commiseration,  and  some  one  suggests  that  if  Mercedes  ex- 
pects to  marry  him  the  ceremony  should  be  performed 
forthwith. 

Then  the  men  wander  off  into  politics.  The  latest  news 
is  related,  and  the  policy  of  the  government  is  commented 
upon.  So  the  conversation  continues  until  the  stone  floor 
of  the  patio  is  covered  with  the  stubs  of  cigarettes,  and 
some  one  suggests  that  the  hour  for  bathing  has  arrived. 

The  whole  party,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  wander  down 
the  shady  side  of  the  street  to  the  grand  promenade,  stop- 
ping now  and  then  to  exchange  a few  words  with  friends 
through  the  grated  windows  of  their  houses  that  are  breast- 
high  from  the  sidewalk.  The  women  always  kiss  when 
they  meet,  and  the  men  embrace  each  other ; but  only  a 
Spanish-bred  lady  can  kiss  a friend  gracefully  through  a 
grated  window. 

When  the  boulevard  is  reached  the  party  sit  for  a few 
minutes  upon  one  of  the  stone  benches  under  the  shadow 
of  the  drooping  plumes  of  the  palms  while  somebody  rushes 
off  to  get  bath  tickets.  Curiously  enough,  they  are  not 
sold  at  the  bath-house,  but  at  a drug-store  three  or  four 
blocks  away ; but  this  is  not  so  strange  a custom  as  that 
which  prohibits  the  sale  of  stamps  at  the  post-office.  If 
you  want  to  post  a letter  in  Caracas,  for  instance,  you  have 
to  go  to  the  Treasury  Department  to  buy  a stamp.  The 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


35 


postmaster  has  none  for  sale,  and  is  not  allowed  to  handle 
money.  And  if  you  want  to  buy  a postal-order  you  have 
to  deposit  the  money  at  the  Treasury  Department  and  get 
a receipt,  in  exchange  for  which  the  postmaster  gives  you  a 
money-order  of  equal  amount. 

The  bathing  operation  takes  only  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  or  less,  for  the  ladies  do  not  lie  around  in  the  sand  in 
their  bathing-suits,  as  is  the  custom  at  the  North  Ameri- 
can resorts,  and  the  party  get  back  to  the  hotel  to  dress 
for  the  almuerzo,  or  breakfast,  which  is  the  solid  meal  of 
the  day.  It  is  served  with  wine,  in  courses,  beginning  with 
soup  and  ending  with  coffee,  cheese,  and  dulces,  a generic 
term  which  embraces  all  sorts  of  sweetmeats,  confectionery, 
preserved  fruits,  ice-cream,  cake,  and  the  et  ccetercis.  The 
South  American  people  have  an  inordinate  appetite  for 
sweets,  and  the  indulgence  of  it  makes  the  women  fat  and 
keeps  the  dentists  busy.  After  the  soup  come  fish,  roast- 
beef,  chicken,  beefsteak,  different  kinds  of  made  dishes, 
vegetables,  and  salads,  which  are  all  served  separately,  like 
the  table-d'hote  dinners  of  Europe. 

After  it  is  over  everybody  goes  to  his  siesta,  and  sleeps 
an  hour  or  more.  From  twelve  to  two  or  three  o’clock  in 
the  afternoon  the  streets  are  as  silent  and  deserted  as  dur- 
ing the  same  hours  in  the  night ; generally  more  so. 
Everybody  is  in  slumber  — master,  mistress,  guests,  chil- 
dren, and  servants — and  remains  so  until  two  o’clock  at 
least.  If  a person  should  make  an  appointment  from 
eleven  to  two  in  the  day,  or  call  upon  a native  during 
those  hours,  he  would  be  looked  upon  as  a lunatic,  and  in 
all  probability  be  turned  away  from  his  friend’s  door  with 
an  anathema  ringing  in  his  ears.  It  would  be  quite  as  prop- 
er to  make  a social  call  at  three  or  four  o’clock  in  the  morn- 


36 


VENEZUELA 


And  this  siesta  is  an  excellent  tiling  for  the  health, 
whether  it  is  taken  when  a man  is  off  for  pleasure  at  the 
sea-shore  or  engaged  in  his  accustomed  avocation  at  home. 
In  the  tropical  countries  it  is  necessary  and  natural  to 
divide  the  sleeping-hours.  People  get  up  early,  and  are  at 
their  offices,  shops,  and  stores  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. Even  the  government  officials  are  at  their  desks  at 
that  hour,  and  a good  half-day’s  work  is  done  before  eleven, 
when  business  is  suspended — as  much  as  the  New  York  or 
Chicago  man  will  do  between  nine  and  one  o’clock.  And 
the  physiologists  who  declaim  against  sleeping  upon  a full 
stomach  can  find  conclusive  evidence  of  the  fallacy  of  their 
theories.  The  Spanish-American  eats  the  heartiest  meal  of 
the  day,  drinks  a quart  of  wine,  more  or  less,  and  a cup  of 
black  coffee,  smokes  a strong  cigar  or  half  a dozen  ciga- 
rettes, and  then  lies  down  on  his  cot  for  a nap  of  an  hour 
or  two,  day  after  day ; and  not  only  is  he  healthy  and  lives 
to  a ripe  old  age,  but  never  has  the  dyspepsia,  or  Bright’s 
disease,  or  any  other  of  the  ailments  that  are  born  of  indi- 
gestion. He  does  not  bolt  his  food  as  we  do,  nor  deluge 
his  stomach  with  ice-water,  but  he  fills  it  with  all  sorts  of 
oily  condiments,  garlic,  rich  fruits,  sweetmeats,  and  a quart 
of  claret  before  he  lies  down  in  a dark  and  poorly  venti- 
lated room  to  sleep. 

He  awakens  refreshed  and  rested,  prepared  for  another 
four  or  five  hours  of  labor,  although  he  is  never  in  a hurry, 
and  does  not  work  half  as  hard  or  accomplish  half  as  much 
as  we  do  in  the  temperate  zones.  lie  moves  deliberately, 
takes  little  exercise,  and  a good  deal  of  social  formality 
enters  into  all  his  transactions.  If  you  call  upon  a mer- 
chant or  a lawyer  on  business  you  are  expected  to  chat 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  upon  indifferent  subjects  be- 
fore mentioning  the  object  of  your  visit,  and  the  meet- 


A VENEZUELAN  WATERING-PLACE 


37 


iugs  of  boards  of  directors  are  very  much  like  social  gath- 
erings. 

The  afternoon  at  the  sea-shore  is  spent  like  the  morning. 
After  the  siesta  the  ladies  sit  around  the  patio  in  their 
wrappers  gossiping,  and  the  men  wander  oil  to  the  casino, 
where  they  play  billiards  or  cards  or  talk  politics  around 
a wine -table,  smoking  cigarettes  incessantly.  At  five 
o’clock,  when  the  sun  sinks  down  behind  the  mountain, 
they  drive  or  promenade  upon  the  paseo , or  boulevard,  until 
dinner,  which  is  a duplicate  of  the  noonday  breakfast. 

After  dinner  there  is  music  in  the  parlor  or  at  the 
casino,  with  dancing  and  drinking  and  cards,  until  mid- 
night, when  everybody  selects  a candle  from  the  dozens 
that  are  set  out  upon  the  table  in  the  dining-room,  and 
goes  to  bed. 


CHAPTER  IV 


A REMARKABLE  RAILWAY 

The  railway  between  La  Guayra  and  Caracas  is  justly 
considered  one  of  the  most  remarkable  examples  of  engi- 
neering and  construction  in  the  entire  world.  The  famous 
Oroya  road  of  Peru,  and  the  Arequipa  line  which  runs  from 
the  Peruvian  coast  to  the  interior  of  Bolivia,  both  built  by 
the  late  Henry  Meigs,  surpass  it  in  some  respects,  and  there 
are  pieces  of  track  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  of  Colorado 
that  were  even  more  difficult  and  expensive ; but  the  Ca- 
racas road  is  extraordinary,  not  only  for  the  skill  shown 
in  its  construction  and  the  obstacles  surmounted,  but  for 
the  scenic  panorama  offered  to  the  passengers. 

Between  the  cities  of  La  Guayra  and  Caracas  the  moun- 
tain La  Silla  is  surrounded  by  lesser  peaks  on  either  side, 
broken  by  deep  gorges  and  ravines.  The  lowest  pass  be- 
tween the  coast  and  the  valley  in  which  Caracas  is  situated 
is  5000  feet  above  tide-water  and  only  five  miles  from 
the  sea.  Caracas  lies  at  an  altitude  of  3900  feet,  so  that 
in  making  the  journey  one  must  ascend  5000  feet,  and 
then  descend  1100  feet  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  range, 
which  is  a spur  of  the  Andes.  To  reach  this  lowest  pass 
the  railroad  climbs  gradually  up  the  sides  of  the  neigh- 
boring mountains,  and  its  total  length  is  twenty-four  miles. 

The  direct  distance  between  the  two  cities  through  the 
centre  of  the  mountain  is  only  six  miles  or  a little  less,  and 


A REMARKABLE  RAILWAY 


39 


there  is  a mule-path  over  the  side  of  La  Silla  only  nine 
miles  long.  This  path  was  the  original,  and  for  nearly  two 
centuries  the  only,  route  of  travel,  and  it  was  trod  by  the 
Indians  ages  before  the  discovery  of  America.  At  pres- 
ent it  is  not  much  used,  except  by  artists  and  others  at- 
tracted by  the  impressive  scenery,  and  by  civilized  Indians 
who  prefer  to  go  over  the  mountain  by  a short-cut  than 
pay  fare  on  a railroad  train.  By  starting  early  in  the  morn- 
ing one  can  make  the  journey  before  noon,  either  on  foot 
or  on  the  back  of  a good  mule ; but  it  is  much  easier  and 
in  every  way  preferable  to  go  from  Caracas  to  La  Guayra 
than  in  the  reverse  direction,  for  you  have  only  about  3000 
feet  of  ascent,  and  7000  feet  of  descent. 

The  Messrs.  Boulton,  who  own  the  New  York  steamers, 
have  a colored  boy  whose  only  business  is  to  carry  their 
mails  between  La  Guayra  and  Caracas  on  sailing  days.  If 
the  steamer  is  to  leave,  as  it  usually  does,  at  ten  o’clock  in 
the  morning,  the  mails  close  at  the  Caracas  post-office  at 
noon  on  the  previous  day,  and  are  carried  down  to  the  port 
by  train;  but  the  Boultons  get  another  afternoon  and  night 
for  letter-writing,  for  they  despatch  the  boy  at  daylight  on 
steamer  day,  and  he  always  gets  the  mail-bag  over  that 
mountain-path  before  the  dew  is  off  the  banana-leaves. 
And  when  the  steamers  arrive  they  get  their  letters  twelve 
hours  before  any  one  else,  for  the  boy  is  waiting  on  the 
dock,  and  starts  up  the  mountain-side  as  soon  as  he  receives 
them  from  the  purser.  He  makes  the  trip  in  three  hours, 
and  when  in  a hurry  has  made  it  in  two. 

It  was  up  that  mountain-path  that  the  vigorous  old  free- 
booter Sir  Francis  Drake  climbed  when  he  captured  and 
sacked  the  city  of  Caracas  in  Queen  Elizabeth’s  reign. 
Although  not  a Protestant  of  notable  piety,  he  had  a vio- 
lent prejudice  against  the  Pope  of  Rome,  which  was  only 


40 


VENEZUELA 


equalled  by  bis  hatred  of  the  Spanish  race,  and  whenever 
he  saw  a Spaniard  or  a Catholic  he  “ went  for  him  there 
and  then.”  After  the  victory  of  the  English  fleet  over  the 
Spanish  Armada  in  the  English  Channel,  Captain  Drake 
sailed  down  this  way  hunting  for  galleons  that  carried  gold 
and  silver  between  the  South  American  colonies  and  the 
ports  of  Spain.  He  took  great  interest  in  visiting  the  cities 
along  the  coast,  and  on  every  one  of  them  left  his  auto- 
graph, written  with  fire  and  powder  and  the  sword. 

Arriving  at  La  Guayra,  he  destroyed  the  shipping  that 
lay  at  anchor  and  then  went  ashore.  When  he  had  stripped 
the  city  of  all  that  was  valuable  and  destroyed  what  he  did 
not  want,  he  made  an  excursion  to  Caracas. 

The  people  of  the  latter  place  had  due  notice  of  his  ar- 
rival, for  the  inhabitants  of  La  Guayra  tied  into  the  moun- 
tains. The  governor  called  out  every  man  capable  of  bear- 
ing arms,  and  fortified  himself  upon  a cart-road  which  had 
been  constructed  between  the  two  cities  some  years  before. 
This  was  the  ordinary  route  of  travel  three  centuries  before 
the  railway  was  laid,  and  of  course  it  was  expected  that 
Drake  and  his  pirates  would  go  up  that  way.  But  he  knew 
better  than  to  try  it,  for  his  scouts  reported  fortifications 
and  an  army  of  men  behind  them  nearly  the  entire  dis- 
tance. He  captured  a miserable  fellow  by  the  name  of 
Villapando,  a veritable  Judas,  who  for  a gift  of  gold 
agreed  to  pilot  the  Englishmen  up  the  old  Indian  path 
through  the  ravines.  Thus,  while  the  gallant  alcalde  and 
the  men  of  Caracas  were  waiting  breathlessly  to  annihilate 
Sir  Francis,  the  latter  crept  up  the  mountain  and  was  loot- 
ing the  city  they  had  gone  out  to  protect. 

For  three  days  Drake  remained  at  the  capital,  plundering 
the  houses,  ravishing  the  women,  and  feasting  his  soldiers 
upon  the  wine  and  luxuries  they  found.  There  was  but 


A REMARKABLE  RAILWAY 


41 


one  man  left  in  the  entire  place,  a nervy  old  knight  named 
Alonzo  de  Ladoma.  Although  he  was  too  old  to  go  out 
with  his  neighbors  to  meet  the  Englishmen,  he  offered  to 
fio-ht  them  one  at  a time  as  long  as  his  strength  lasted. 
Sir  Francis  was  much  impressed  with  the  old  gentleman’s 
valor,  and  would  have  spared  his  life,  but  the  latter  became 
involved  in  a controversy  with  a drunken  pirate,  who  cut 
off  his  head. 

When  Sir  Francis  had  gathered  all  the  valuables  in  the 
city  and  loaded  them  upon  the  backs  of  his  men,  he  hung 
Villapando  in  the  principal  plaza,  marched  down  the  ravine, 
and  sailed  away  with  more  than  $1, 000, 000  in  treasure. 
He  did  not  lose  a single  man,  and,  although  the  city  was 
practically  destroyed,  the  only  lives  sacrificed  were  those  of 
the  brave  old  Ladoma  and  the  traitor.  The  Spaniards  who 
were  encamped  upon  the  wagon-road  got  news  of  the  raid 
about  the  time  Sir  Francis  was  kissing  their  wives  and 
daughters  good-bye,  and  hurried  back  to  Caracas,  but  were 
too  late  to  do  any  good. 

The  engineers  who  laid  out  the  railway  followed  the  old 
wagon-route  as  nearly  as  possible,  but  much  of  the  way  had 
to  carve  and  blast  a roadway  in  the  solid  rock.  The  track 
is  narrow  gauge,  and  laid  upon  iron  sleepers.  There  are 
many  tunnels  and  miles  of  heavy  embankment,  but  very 
few  bridges,  for  the  breast  of  the  same  mountain  is  fol- 
lowed. For  more  than  half  the  distance — in  fact,  till  the 
pass  at  the  summit  is  reached — the  ocean  is  in  sight,  and  at 
times  one  can  look  down  two  or  three  thousand  feet  into 
the  water  below.  The  mountains  are  barren  of  vegetation, 
and,  as  the  track  is  carved  out  of  the  solid  rock,  the  road- 
bed is  permanently  secure.  The  grade  is  four  per  cent. — 
that  is,  it  rises  four  feet  in  every  one  hundred,  or  one 
hundred  and  ninety-seven  feet  to  the  mile,  which  seems 


42 


VENEZUELA 


pretty  steep  when  one  looks  out  from  the  rear  windows 
of  the  car. 

Although  an  accident  would  be  attended  with  frightful 
loss  of  life,  and  a man  of  iron  nerve  will  shudder  when  he 
thinks  of  it,  there  is  really  very  little  danger,  for  every 
possible  precaution  is  exercised.  Track- walkers  are  em- 
ployed who  go  over  every  foot  of  the  line  several  times  a 
day,  and  inspect  it  carefully  before  the  passage  of  all  trains. 
At  every  curve  there  is  a flagman,  and  the  switches  are 
inspected  hourly.  The  cars  are  so  arranged,  too,  that  if 
any  portion  of  the  machinery  or  coupling  should  give  way 
the  brakes  would  be  set  automatically.  The  wheels  are 
small,  and  there  are  sockets  in  the  floor  of  the  cars  to  fit 
them.  By  pulling  a cord  which  would  be  violently  severed 
if  anything  should  break,  the  cars  wrould  be  dropped  upon 
the  ground,  and  could  go  no  farther. 

But  no  accident  has  ever  happened,  and  it  is  not  likely 
that  one  ever  will.  There  was  once  an  attempt  to  wreck  a 
train  upon  which  Guzman  Blanco,  the  Dictator,  was  travel- 
ling from  Caracas  to  La  Guayra  with  his  family.  Some 
wretches  employed  by  his  enemies  removed  a rail  on  one 
of  the  most  dangerous  curves,  and  if  it  had  not  been  dis- 
covered by  a track-walker  the  whole  train  might  have  been 
precipitated  into  one  of  the  deepest  gorges.  Guzman  was 
never  able  to  discover  the  conspirators,  but  he  arrested  and 
locked  up  in  the  dungeons  at  La  Guayra  every  man  who 
could  by  any  possibility  have  had  a hand  in  the  plot  or 
knowledge  of  it,  and  used  torture  to  force  a confession  from 
some  of  the  suspected  persons.  The  lesson  of  that  disci- 
pline was  sufficient  to  deter  his  enemies  from  making  a 
second  attempt. 

The  cost  of  the  road  was  $6,000,000,  $200,000  a mile — 
at  least,  that  is  the  sum  of  money  raised  by  the  sale  of 


A REMARKABLE  RAILWAY 


43 


bonds  in  England  for  its  construction.  There  is  a pre- 
vailing impression  that  a considerable  portion  of  this 
sum  was  not  expended  in  a legitimate  manner,  but  no- 
body knows  the  facts  except  the  gentlemen  most  in- 
terested, and  they  have  never  been  polite  enough  to 
gratify  the  curiosity  of  the  gossips.  There  is  consider- 
able mystery  about  Guzman  Blanco’s  connection  with  the 
corporation.  At  one  time  he  was  understood  to  have 
owned  at  least  one-half  of  the  bonds  and  a majority  of 
the  shares,  and  he  destroyed  the  old  wagon-road  so  as  to 
compel  people  to  travel  and  send  their  freight  by  rail. 
Many  preferred  to  travel  all  day  on  muleback  in  the  broil- 
ing sun,  and  gave  their  freight  to  the  muleteers  and  the 
cartmcn  rather  than  send  it  by  the  cars.  This  made  Guz- 
man indignant.  He  uttered  frequent  and  emphatic  remon- 
strances, but  they  had  no  effect.  Then  he  sent  out  a bat- 
talion of  soldiers  by  whom  the  cart-road  was  destroyed,  so 
that  both  the  shippers  and  the  travellers  were  compelled  to 
use  the  railway.  But  there  are  still  people  of  intelli- 
gence and  wealth  at  Caracas  who  have  never  been  over  the 
road,  and  will  not  use  it  because  they  do  not  consider  it 
safe ! 

Some  years  ago  a concession  was  granted  to  an  Ameri- 
can company  to  pierce  a tunnel  through  the  mountain  La 
Silla.  Surveys  have  shown  that  a direct  line  drawn  between 
the  two  cities  is  only  six  miles,  and  the  tunnel  will  be  only 
half  that  distance,  the  remainder  of  the  road  passing 
through  ravines.  The  altitude  of  Caracas  is  a little  less 
than  4000  feet,  and  as  the  road  will  be  32,000  feet  long, 
the  grade  will  be  eight  per  cent.  It  is  proposed  to  run 
the  cars  by  means  of  the  cable  system  and  use  water- 
power. There  is  a tremendous  amount  of  water-power 
wasted  in  the  mountains,  and  by  damming  one  of  the  many 


44 


VENEZUELA 


gorges  a reservoir  capable  of  storing  millions  upon  millions 
of  gallons  can  be  erected. 

Engineers  familiar  with  cable  roads  have  inspected  the 
route,  and  pronounce  the  scheme  entirely  practicable.  They 
differ  somewhat  in  the  estimates  of  the  cost,  the  minimum 
being  $3,500,000,  and  the  maximum  being  $5,000,000, 
including  the  construction  of  the  dam.  But,  taking  the 
maximum  figure,  the  cost  will  be  $1,000,000  under  that 
of  the  existing  surface  railway,  and  the  expense  of  main- 
taining and  operating  it  by  water-power  will  be  much 
smaller.  It  is  proposed  to  run  trains  every  half-hour,  for 
with  water-power  it  will  cost  but  little  more  to  run  twenty 
than  two  trains  a day,  as  the  other  road  does.  This  will 
enable  those  who  have  their  business  at  La  Guayra  to  live 
in  the  cool  climate  of  Caracas,  and  passenger  travel  will  be 
greatly  increased. 

The  government  is  anxious  to  secure  the  investment  of 
American  capital  in  public  enterprises,  and  not  only  offers 
concessions  on  liberal  terms,  but  gives  guarantees.  The 
English  and  Germans  have  until  recently  monopolized  Ven- 
ezuelan concessions.  Everything  is  a monopoly.  If  a man 
wants  to  build  a saw -mill  or  a railroad,  if  he  wants  to 
open  a mine  or  cut  timber  on  public  lands  or  do  anything 
else  in  the  line  of  new  enterprises,  he  must  first  apply  to 
the  federal  authorities,  who  investigate  his  credit  and  ca- 
pacity, and  then,  if  satisfied,  grant  him  a concession  for  a 
term  of  years.  Often  in  cases  where  the  investment  will 
promote  the  public  welfare  he  is  given  a guarantee  to  pro- 
tect him  against  loss. 

The  natives  are  notoriously  lacking  in  energy  and  enter- 
prise. There  is  none  of  the  spirit  of  the  pioneer  in  them. 
They  will  not  risk  money  in  a new  venture  until  it  is 
shown  to  be  a success  and  pecuniarily  profitable.  Then 


A REMARKABLE  RAILWAY 


45 


they  buy  the  stock  with  ardor.  They  are  engaged  in  mer- 
cantile business,  in  agriculture,  in  the  professions,  and  in 
some  of  the  trades,  and  show  considerable  business  ability, 
but  whatever  is  done  in  the  development  of  the  country 
must  be  done  by  the  government  or  by  foreigners.  The 
natives  are  satisfied  to  run  along  in  the  same  old  rut  their 
great-grandfathers  made  until  some  Yankee  or  German  or 
Englishman  introduces  a modern  improvement.  As  they 
are  quick  of  perception  they  see  its  utility  at  once  and 
adopt  it  eagerly.  This  is  illustrated  by  the  popularity  of 
the  telephone,  which  is  found  in  almost  every  house  and 
store,  and  is  in  even  more  general  use  at  Caracas  than  in 
any  city  of  similar  size  in  the  United  States. 

There  are  a number  of  street-car  lines  in  the  city,  but 
the  accommodations  are  so  miserable  that  ladies  never  ride 
in  the  cars,  and  few  gentlemen  of  the  upper  class  do  unless 
they  are  compelled  to.  The  cars  are  small,  grotesque  af- 
fairs, without  side  walls  or  any  shelter  from  the  rain  and 
sun  except  the  roof,  and  are  so  infested  with  vermin  that 
it  is  not  agreeable  to  occupy  them.  There  are  no  springs 
under  the  box,  and  the  seats  are  narrow  boards  placed 
across  horizontally.  Good  cars  would  be  liberally  patron- 
ized and  increase  the  dividends  of  the  company,  but  the 
directors  appear  to  be  satisfied  with  the  support  of  the 
peons,  and  let  the  fastidious  aristocracy  ride  in  their  own 
or  hired  carriages. 

The  street -car  fare  at  present  is  five  cents,  and  when 
you  pay  the  conductor  he  hands  you  a ticket  which  you 
are  expected  to  tear  up.  The  company  protects  his  in- 
tegrity and  its  profits  by  making  him  purchase  a lot  of 
tickets  in  advance,  one  of  which  must  be  destroyed  for 
every  passenger  he  carries ; and  the  number  of  tickets 
missing  when  he  makes  his  report  at  night  should  repre- 


46 


VENEZUELA 


sent  the  fares  he  has  taken.  The  motive  power  is  usually 
one  large  mule  or  two  small  donkeys,  and  they  get  over  the 
ground  with  commendable  energy.  The  driver  carries  a 
horn,  which  is  blown  as  he  approaches  street  corners. 

In  the  olden  times,  when  small  change  was  scarce,  the 
people  used  cocoa  beans  instead  of  pennies,  and  it  is  still 
the  custom  at  the  market-places  in  some  of  the  smaller 
towns.  The  fruit  of  the  chocolate  plant  always  has  a fixed 
value.  It  is  worth  thirty-five  cents  a pound  on  the  plan- 
tation, and  its  price  at  the  market  is  increased  according 
to  the  distance  it  has  been  transported.  The  crop  is  so 
small  and  the  demand  so  great  that  the  beans  are  legal 
tender.  But  when  it  was  necessary  to  make  a large  amount 
of  change  the  old  Spanish  dollars  wrere  chopped  in  pieces, 
and  the  fragments  can  be  found  even  now  in  the  money- 
drawers  of  the  merchants,  or  hanging  to  the  watch-chains 
of  people  who  regard  them  with  curiosity. 

The  public  make  free  with  postage-stamps  in  the  same 
way.  If  they  want  to  send  a one-cent  letter  and  have 
nothing  but  a two-cent  stamp,  they  take  their  scissors  and 
cut  it  diagonally  across,  pasting  one-half  on  the  envelope 
and  putting  the  other  away  for  future  use.  The  denomi- 
nation of  each  stamp  is  shown  by  figures  in  each  corner,  and 
those  that  are  so  mutilated  are  received  for  half  their  value. 

There  are  plenty  of  profitable  concessions  to  be  ob- 
tained in  Venezuela,  as  the  government  is  anxious  to  in- 
troduce foreign  capital  and  energy  and,  especially,  skilled 
labor.  A first-class  hotel  is  much  needed  at  Caracas.  The 
government  and  the  citizens  recognize  the  fact,  and  the 
travelling  public  demand  some  improvements  upon  the 
present  accommodations.  A liberal  concession  would  be 
granted  to  the  right  man,  and  the  site  would  doubtless 
be  donated. 


CHAPTER  V 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 

Caracas,  the  capital  of  Venezuela,  and  its  commercial 
metropolis,  lies  upon  the  southern  slope  of  the  mountain 
La  Silla,  and  extends  eastward  and  westward  into  the  valley 
of  the  Rio  Guaire.  The  latitude  is  10°  30'  30"  north,  so 
that  it  is  630  miles  from  the  equator,  and  the  longitude  about 
the  same  as  that  of  Boston.  The  valley  of  the  Guaire  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  bed  of  a lake,  which  was  drained 
into  the  sea  by  the  action  of  an  earthquake,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  as  well  as  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  the 
world. 

The  valley  is  not  more  than  three  or  four  miles  broad, 
and  resembles  that  of  the  Aar  of  Switzerland,  in  which 
the  city  of  Interlachen  is  located.  The  mountains  on  the 
northern  side  lift  their  heads  nearly  9000  feet,  and  upon 
the  southern  side  about  4000.  To  one  standing  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  or  looking  from  a house-top,  it  seems 
to  be  entirely  surrounded  by  peaks — to  lie  in  a pocket, 
enclosed  by  an  impenetrable  wall.  And  from  the  pedestal 
of  Guzman  Blanco’s  statue,  which  formerly  stood  in  the 
park  El  Calvario,  beyond  the  fields  of  sugar-cane  that 
stretch  like  sheets  of  livid  green  over  the  entire  valley, 
broken  only  by  the  silver  stream  that  waters  them,  and  the 
pink  and  blue  walls  of  the  plantation  buildings ; beyond 
the  pretty  village  of  Antimino,  where  the  rich  have  sum- 


48 


VENEZUELA 


mer  residences,  and  the  Dictator  built  a palace  and  a park 
fit  for  a king;  beyond  all  this,  and  the  groves  of  coffee- 
trees  that  decorate  the  foot-hills,  can  be  discerned  a narrow 
path  between  the  peaks  where  the  Rio  Guaire  comes  tum- 
bling down  over  the  rocks  to  moisten  the  roots  of  the 
sugar-cane  and  hurry  on  to  the  sea. 

Through  this  pass  runs  the  road  to  Valencia,  the  second 
city  of  Venezuela,  eighty  leagues  distant.  Down  this  val- 
ley, along  the  bosom  of  the  hills,  is  an  aqueduct,  which 
was  built  by  Guzman  Blanco  in  1874,  to  bring  the  water 
of  the  mountains  into  Caracas,  and  the  supply  is  stored 
in  a vast  reservoir  on  El  Calvario,  where  his  bronze  effigy 
once  stood  as  a guard  upon  it. 

To  the  eastward,  along  the  valley  and  lapping  up  the 
slopes  of  the  mountains,  are  a long  series  of  coffee  planta- 
tions, stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  their  dense, 
dark  green  furnishing  an  artistic  contrast  to  the  brilliant 
emerald  of  the  sugar-fields.  There  is  a railway  in  that 
direction,  twenty-four  miles  long,  to  a town  called  En- 
cantado,  built  by  an  English  company,  and  intended  to  be 
a link  in  the  proposed  line  along  the  northern  coast.  But 
it  is  extended  slowly — only  a few  miles  a year — and  will 
require  a century,  at  the  present  rate  of  progress,  to  reach 
its  ultimate  destination  in  the  valley  of  Aragua. 

The  population  of  Caracas  is  estimated  at  70,000  souls, 
and,  including  suburban  towns,  there  are  probably  80,000 
people  in  the  valley.  The  growth  of  the  city  has  been  very 
slow.  At  the  time  of  the  separation  of  Venezuela  from 
Spain  there  are  said  to  have  been  50,000  people,  but 
twenty-five  years  afterwards,  in  1846,  the  census  showed 
but  47,000.  In  1883  another  census  was  taken,  which 
showed  56,194  in  the  city  and  70,198  in  the  valley.  The 
census  of  1886  showed  a slight  reduction — 55,819  in  the 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


49 


city,  70,078  in  the  valley;  but  it  is  not  considered  accu- 
rate, as  the  peons — the  laboring  class,  who  are  timid  and 
suspicious — used  every  possible  subterfuge  to  escape  the 
enumerators,  for  fear  their  names  were  being  taken  for  the 
purpose  of  impressing  them  into  the  military  service.  This 
theory  is  corroborated  by  the  large  excess  of  females  in 
the  population  reported.  They  numbered  nearly  39,000, 
while  the  males  were  only  31,000.  According  to  the  census 
of  1886  there  were  498  twins,  14  persons  over  one  hundred 
years  of  age,  and  6603  foreigners  of  all  nationalities.  An- 
other fact  that  proves  the  inaccuracy  of  the  census  is  that 
the  vote  in  the  valley  is  15,608,  a large  number  in  propor- 
tion to  the  population. 

There  is  a reason  why  the  population  has  not  increased, 
even  in  the  ratio  that  ought  to  be  maintained  from  natural 
causes.  During  the  last  seventy  years  the  people  have  been 
engaged  in  almost  continuous  domestic  warfare.  From 
1810  to  1871  there  were  two  armies  almost  constantly  in 
the  field,  contending,  under  the  leadership  of  ambitious 
generals  and  statesmen,  for  the  control  of  the  government. 
From  1871  to  1885  the  country  was  comparatively  quiet, 
but  since  the  later  date  its  peace  has  been  frequently  dis- 
turbed by  some  disappointed  politician,  or  some  defeated 
aspirant  for  the  presidency,  who  has  caused  a revolution. 

This  warfare  resulted  in  an  enormous  mortality.  Men 
were  killed  off  faster  than  babies  were  born,  and  immi- 
grants were  prevented  from  entering  the  country  because 
of  the  insecurity  of  life  and  property.  The  population  of 
the  republic  is  certainly  less  than  it  was  fifty  years  ago, 
and,  until  permanent  peace  is  assured,  there  is  little  induce- 
ment for  immigration,  and  no  prospect  of  an  increase  or  a 
continuance  of  prosperity.  One  of  the  most  potent  influ- 
ences in  preserving  the  peace  of  the  nation  will  be  the 

i 


50 


VENEZUELA 


education  of  the  masses.  Shortly  after  his  accession  to 
power,  in  L 8 7 1 , General  Guzman  Blanco  expelled  the  monks 
and  nuns  from  the  country,  confiscated  the  monasteries  and 
convents,  and  transformed  them  into  schools,  which  he 
filled  with  children  under  a compulsory  education  law.  A 
certain  portion  of  the  public  revenues — those  derived  from 
the  sale  of  postage-stamps,  and  stamps  which  are  required 
to  be  attached  to  legal  documents — were  dedicated  to  the 
cause  of  education,  and  honestly  applied,  so  that  the  pres- 
ent generation  have  had  the  benefit  of  instruction  in  the 
rudimentary  branches,  and  the  privilege  of  attending  with- 
out cost  institutions  for  higher  culture.  Previously  the 
people  got  their  learning  only  from  the  priests,  but  now  all 
children  between  the  ages  of  eight  and  fourteen  are  obliged 
to  attend  the  public,  non- sectarian  schools,  aud  nearly 
everybody  under  the  age  of  thirty  can  at  least  read  and 
write. 

The  statistics  show  that  in  1830  there  were  but  200 
schools  and  colleges  in  the  entire  country,  with  but  7500 
pupils.  Then  only  the  children  of  the  rich  had  advantages 
for  education.  In  1870  there  were  but  300  schools  and 

10.000  scholars.  In  1880  there  were  1684  schools  and 

61.000  scholars,  while  in  1886  the  number  had  been  in- 
creased to  1957  schools  and  99,466  scholars.  Therefore, 
in  fourteen  years  there  was  an  increase  of  1565  schools 
and  84,385  scholars,  or  an  average  of  452  scholars  for 
every  one  thousand  of  the  population. 

In  addition  to  the  common  schools  there  are  two  uni- 
versities, six  colleges,  fourteen  academies  or  preparatory 
schools,  four  normal  schools  for  the  education  of  teachers, 
nine  seminaries  for  the  higher  education  of  women,  one 
polytechnic  school,  one  school  of  arts  and  trades,  one 
naval  and  military  academy,  and  one  school  of  telegraphy, 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


51 


all  supported  by  the  government,  with  twenty-four  private 
colleges  and  academies.  Connected  with  these  institutions 
are  594  professors,  with  4380  students  under  their  care. 
The  annual  cost  of  education  to  the  government  is  4,078,- 
645  bolivars,  or  a little  more  than  $800,000. 

The  Central  University  at  Caracas,  which  for  many 
years  was  supported  by  the  proceeds  of  a large  coffee 
plantation  confiscated  from  the  monks,  is  one  of  the  most 
extensive  and  thorough  institutions  of  learning  in  all 
South  America,  with  30  professors  and  about  400  students. 
Attached  to  it  are  a classical  college,  and  schools  of  law, 
medicine,  theology,  science,  and  engineering.  The  univer- 
sity building,  which  stands  opposite  the  Capitol,  in  the 
heart  of  the  city,  is  a beautiful  structure  of  pure  Gothic, 
and  occupies  almost  an  entire  block. 

Under  the  same  roof  is  the  national  library  of  some 
40,000  volumes,  presided  over  by  Dr.  Adolf  Ernst,  an  emi- 
nent scientist  and  scholar,  of  German  nativity,  who  has  a 
wTorld-wide  reputation,  and  is  a member  of  all  the  lead- 
ing societies  in  Europe  and  the  United  States.  His  name 
is  well  known  at  Harvard  and  Yale,  and  at  the  Smithsonian 
Institute  at  Washington,  as  at  Caracas,  and  his  original 
researches  have  added  much  of  importance  to  the  world’s 
knowledge.  Through  all  the  numerous  revolutions  and 
political  mutations  in  Venezuela,  Dr.  Ernst  has  kept  his 
place  at  the  head  of  the  learned  men  of  that  country,  in- 
dependent of  every  party,  and  respected  by  all ; and  he 
may  be  called  the  polar-star  of  the  intellectual  firmament 
of  the  republic.  He  is  the  only  man  who  is  capable  of 
preparing  an  accurate  history  of  Venezuela  — something 
that  has  never  been  written.  There  have  been  numerous 
books  published  in  the  Spanish  language  designed  to  com- 
memorate the  achievements  of  the  leading  men,  and  to  pre- 


52 


VENEZUELA 


serve  a record  of  the  stirring  events  that  have  occurred  in 
rapid  succession,  but  none  lias  been  impartial  or  even 
truthful.  Political  prejudice  and  preference  have  been  so 
intense  that  the  local  writers  have  been  unable  to  see  jus- 
tice in  any  cause  but  the  one  they  advocate,  and  have 
made  it  their  business  to  deify  the  leaders  they  have  fol- 
lowed, and  anathematize  the  rest  of  the  generation. 

Nor  are  the  newspapers  reliable.  They  only  mislead 
those  who  attempt  to  study  history  from  their  columns. 
Formerly  there  was  a censorship  of  the  press;  and  no 
editor  dared  publish  facts  reflecting  on  the  honesty  or 
the  fame  of  the  leading  men  of  the  nation,  or  utter  opin- 
ions that  did  not  conform  to  the  policy  of  the  adminis- 
tration in  power.  As  presidents  and  dictators  have  suc- 
ceeded each  other  with  marvellous  rapidity,  the  established 
newspapers  have  been  compelled  to  shift  their  political 
base  accordingly,  or  suffer  confiscation,  so  that  one  month 
they  have  condemned  the  man  they  were  made  to  extol 
the  next. 

Since  Dr.  Ernst  came  to  the  country  he  has  kept  a 
daily  diary  of  events,  and  in  his  manuscripts  can  be  found 
the  only  accurate  record  of  the  last  third  of  a centurj', 
which  he  intends  sometime  to  prepare  for  publication. 
There  is  but  one  book  published  in  the  United  States  con- 
cerning the  Republic  of  Venezuela,  and  that  is  The  Capitals 
of  Spanish  America  (Harper  A Brothers,  1886),  which  treats 
of  the  city  of  Caracas  in  connection  with  the  other  prin- 
cipal cities  of  Central  and  South  America,  and  there  are 
only  three  other  works  on  the  same  subject  in  the  Eng- 
lish language,  all  of  them  by  Englishmen.  One  was  writ- 
ten in  1868  by  a Mr.  Eastwick,  who  was  sent  out  as  an 
agent  of  the  English  Bondholders’  Association  to  adjust 
the  public  debt,  and,  failing,  took  his  revenge  by  ridiculing 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


53 


the  people  and  condemning  the  country  in  general  terms. 
The  author  of  another  was  a Mr.  Spence,  also  an  English- 
man, who  came  over  to  secure  a concession  for  digging 
phosphates  on  the  islands  along  the  coast,  and  he  relates 
some  interesting  experiences  of  his  own,  but  says  little 
concerning  the  country.  His  book  was  written  in  1871, 
and  published  in  1876.  The  third  volume  is  a small  one, 
prepared  by  a Mr.  Barry,  a mining  engineer,  who  was  sent 
out  from  London  to  look  into  some  mineral  properties,  and 
gives  a small  amount  of  interesting  information  about  the 
Guayana  mines. 

Caracas  has  suffered  severely  from  earthquakes  in  past 
generations,  but  of  late  has  been  mercifully  spared.  In 
1812  the  city  was  entirely  destroyed,  and  12,000  people 
are  said  to  have  perished  in  the  ruins.  In  1826  there 
was  another  shaking  up,  but  it  was  not  nearly  so  severe, 
and  the  casualties  were  reckoned  by  the  hundreds.  There 
have  been  occasional  disturbances  since,  but  no  serious 
damage  lias  resulted.  The  people  are  quite  sensitive  on 
the  subject,  and  insist  that  more  property  was  destroyed 
by  the  great  Chicago  fire,  and  that  more  lives  have  been 
lost  in  cyclones  in  our  Western  States,  than  by  all  the 
earthquakes  that  ever  visited  Venezuela.  There  is  really 
little  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  terrestrial  convul- 
sions. The  houses  are  constructed  of  thick  adobe  walls, 
so  as  to  be  earthquake  proof,  and  most  of  them  are  of  only 
one  story.  It  is  a fact  that  vastly  more  property  is  an- 
nually destroyed  and  more  lives  lost  from  fires  in  the 
United  States  in  proportion  to  the  population. 

There  has  been  only  one  fire  in  Caracas  since  the  oldest 
inhabitant  can  remember,  and  that  destroyed  a saw-mill 
belonging  to  an  Irish-American.  There  is  not  a heating 
or  a cooking  stove  in  the  entire  city.  You  can  look  over 


54 


VENEZUELA 


the  roofs  from  the  spire  of  the  cathedral  or  from  the  hill 
Calvario  in  any  direction  without  seeing  so  much  as  a 
wreath  of  smoke,  or  even  a chimney.  And  there  are  no 
fire-engines,  or  street-hydrants,  or  coils  of  hose  hanging 
out  in  a suggestive  way  in  any  of  the  hotels  or  public 
buildings.  Nor  are  there  any  fire  - insurance  companies. 
They  are  not  needed.  The  entire  loss  to  the  city  from 
fire  for  the  last  half-century  would  not  exceed  $20,000, 
and  if  a building  should  catch  fire  only  the  interior  floors 
and  partitions  coukl  be  burned,  as  the  w’alls  of  mud  and 
cement  will  endure  any  amount  of  baking. 

Caracas,  like  all  other  South  American  towns,  is  laid  out 
in  the  most  methodical  manner  in  regular  squares  of  equal 
area  and  frontage,  divided  by  narrow  streets  paved  with 
small  cobble-stones.  The  streets  accurately  follow  the 
cardinal  points  of  the  compass,  and  are  numbered  from 
the  Plaza  Bolivar — a beautiful  park  in  the  centre  of  the 
town — as  the  streets  of  Washington  are  lettered  and  num- 
bered from  the  Capitol.  The  cathedral,  which  fronts  on 
the  plaza,  is  really  the  focus.  The  streets  upon  which  it 
stands  are  called  “Avenue  East”  and  “ Avenue  West,” 
“Avenue  North”  and  “Avenue  South.”  Then  the  num- 
bering begins,  and  plaques  of  blue  enamel  are  cemented 
upon  the  corner  houses,  which  read  “2  Sur” — which 
means  Second  Street  East. 

There  is  no  variety  and  no  display  of  taste  in  the  archi- 
tecture. Every  house  is  exactly  like  the  last  and  the  next 
one,  built  in  the  same  way,  and  of  the  same  materials. 
It  may  be  a trifle  vdder  or  higher,  and  the  stucco  that 
adorns  the  massive  adobe  walls  may  differ  in  details.  One 
may  be  painted  green,  and  the  next  pink,  or  blue,  accord- 
ing to  the  taste  of  the  owner ; and  the  iron  bars  that  pro- 
tect the  windows  may  be  a little  larger,  or  set  at  wider 


THE  CAPITAL  OP  VENEZUELA 


55 


intervals ; but  there  is  a monotonous  sameness,  even  in 
the  red-tiled  roofs,  and  the  iron  water-spouts,  that  stretch 
out  from  the  eave-troughs  like  the  necks  of  hungry  turtles, 
just  far  enough  to  permit  the  streams  that  fall  from  them 
to  strike  the  middle  of  the  sidewalk. 

But  these  ugly  houses  always  show  their  worst  side — 
their  blind  side,  as  one  might  say — to  the  street ; and  no 
one  can  judge  from  their  external  appearance  of  the  com- 
forts and  luxuries  within.  The  city  was  built  at  the  time 
when  every  man’s  house  was  his  castle  and  must  he  secure. 
They  make  up,  too,  in  length  and  breadth  what  they  lack 
in  height.  Perhaps  the  ugliest  house  in  all  Caracas,  as 
viewed  externally,  is  the  residence  of  the  late  Mr.  Henry 
Boulton,  a venerable  and  wealthy  merchant.  It  looks  as 
if  its  exterior  wTalls  might  enclose  a vast  stable  or  a corral 
for  cattle.  In  fact,  the  walls  that  surround  his  lumber- 
yard are  more  attractive  and  artistic  ; but  when  you  have 
passed  through  the  wide  arched  gateway,  and  reached  the 
patio  with  its  bronze  fountain  and  tessellated  corridors,  its 
palms  and  roses,  its  orange-trees  and  oleanders,  you  realize 
that  the  habit  of  the  Spanish-American  millionaires  is  not 
to  spend  their  money  in  beautifying  their  streets,  but  to 
use  it  entirely  within  their  dwellings.  The  finishings  and 
furnishings  of  the  drawing-rooms,  the  parlors,  the  library, 
the  dining-room,  and  the  chambers  are  as  sumptuous  and 
expensive  as  can  be  found  in  the  mansion  of  any  merchant 
prince  in  New  York  or  London,  and  the  area  covered  by 
this  one-story  structure  wrould  give  room  enough  for  the 
erection  of  a dozen  houses  like  those  that  line  Fifth 
Avenue. 

Let  me  give  a picture  of  one  house  in  Caracas,  a type  of 
the  best,  although  it  is  occupied  by  only  two  bachelors, 
who  prefer  to  live  in  spacious  independence  rather  than  in 


56 


VENEZUELA 


the  close  quarters  of  a hotel.  The  exterior — the  front  ele- 
vation, as  architects  say — shows  a dead  adobe  wall,  about 
fifteen  feet  high,  covered  with  a sloping  roof  of  red  tiles, 
and  broken  by  a heavy,  oaken  door  and  two  wide  windows 
covered  with  iron  bars  like  those  that  protect  prisons.  The 
big  door,  which  is  ten  feet  wide  and  reaches  to  the  roof,  is 
seldom  open,  but  in  it  a smaller  door  is  cut,  just  large 
enough  to  admit  the  body  of  a man.  You  touch  the  but- 
ton of  an  electric  bell,  and  a servant  admits  you,  through 
the  smaller  door,  into  a wide,  high  passageway,  as  large 
as  the  vestibule  of  a church.  Following  this  you  come 
upon  a scene  of  tropical  loveliness,  a patio  or  court-yard, 
with  no  roof  but  the  starlit  sky,  in  which  are  growing  and 
blossoming  in  their  natural  luxuriance  plants  that  surpass 
any  to  be  found  in  the  botanical  gardens  of  the  Northern 
latitudes.  The  atmosphere  is  laden  with  the  odor  of  flow- 
ers, and  trickling  water  from  a handsome  bronze  fountain 
gives  perpetual  music.  Around  this  court-yard,  under  a 
projecting  roof,  is  a corridor  fifteen  feet  wide,  upon  which 
the  windows  of  all  the  apartments  open.  There  are  no 
sashes,  and  no  glass  in  the  windows,  but  privacy  is  secured 
by  Venetian  blinds.  The  corridor  is  paved  with  blue  and 
white  marble  tiles,  upon  which  Persian  rugs  are  spread  to 
deaden  the  foot-falls.  The  front  room,  that  which  looks 
upon  the  street,  is  about  thirty  by  twenty  feet  inside,  and 
is  used  for  a drawing-room.  The  floor  is  tiled  and  covered 
with  a large  rug.  In  the  centre  is  a handsome  table,  cov- 
ered with  books  and  ornaments,  and  over  it,  from  the  ceil- 
ing, is  suspended  a massive  argand  lamp.  In  one  corner  is 
a grand-piano,  scattered  around  are  easy- chairs,  Turkish 
divans,  lounges,  easels,  and  other  articles  of  furniture  and 
decoration,  while  upon  the  walls  hang  handsomely  framed 
paintings  and  engravings. 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


57 


The  ceiling  is  peculiar,  anil  seems  to  sag  in  the  centre. 
Upon  close  inspection  it  will  be  discovered  to  be  of  heavy 
canvas,  nailed  to  the  cornice  and  covered  with  wall-paper. 
Between  the  canvas  and  the  rafters  that  support  the  roof 
is  an  open  space.  This  style  of  ceiling  is  common,  and 
best  adapted  to  the  peculiar  conditions  of  the  country — much 
better  than  lath  or  plaster,  which  might  be  shaken  down 
by  an  earthquake ; and  there  is  a worm  which  eats  the 
wood-work,  and  will  destroy  the  roof  of  a house  in  a year 
or  two  unless  the  rafters  are  frequently  painted.  So  the 
canvas  ceiling  is  arranged  in  such  a manner  that  it  can  be 
easily  taken  down,  and  the  wood-work  it  conceals  covered 
with  paint  at  frequent  intervals,  usually  every  spring  and 
fall.  In  some  of  the  best  houses  there  is  no  ceiling  at  all, 
and  the  rafters  and  tiles  that  form  the  roof  are  exposed, 
but  painted  in  ornamental  colors. 

In  the  corridor  just  outside  the  parlor  is  a large,  round 
table  covered  with  books  and  papers,  with  another  large 
lamp  hanging  over  it,  and  several  easy-chairs  that  look  as 
if  they  had  just  been  occupied.  Over  in  the  corner  is  a 
sideboard  loaded  with  half  a dozen  bottles,  pipes,  tobacco, 
and  cigars.  On  either  side  are  large  rooms  with  windows 
looking  into  the  patio.  The  first  is  a library,  with  shelves 
of  books  and  a desk  with  writing  materials  upon  it.  The 
next  three  are  bedrooms,  with  the  floors  covered  first  with 
cocoa  matting  and  then  with  rugs.  Across  the  way  is  a 
billiard-room  and  a gymnasium,  fitted  up  with  all  sorts 
of  appliances  for  muscular  exercise,  and  its  walls  are 
decorated  with  guns,  fishing-rods,  fencing  - swords,  and 
masks. 

Across  the  patio  from  the  parlor  is  the  dining-room, 
handsomely  furnished,  and  beyond  it  another  smaller  court- 
yard, around  which  are  the  kitchen,  the  laundry,  and  the 


58 


VENEZUELA 


apartments  for  the  servants,  with  a bath-room  that  deserves 
attention.  It  is  large,  perhaps  fifteen  feet  square,  and  the 
floor  and  walls  are  covered  with  bine  and  white  tiles.  The 
tub  is  not  an  elevated,  coffin-shaped  box  of  wood  and  zinc,  or 
an  urn  of  porcelain,  like  ours  are,  but  a large  pool,  ten  feet  long 
and  four  feet  wide,  sunk  in  the  floor  to  the  depth  of  about 
four  feet,  with  steps  at  either  end  by  which  the  bather  may 
enter  the  water,  which,  when  the  tub  is  full,  reaches  to  his 
armpits,  and  gives  him  room  enough  for  a plunge.  The 
bottom  and  the  sides  of  the  tub  are  laid  with  the  same  sort 
of  tiles  that  line  the  walls  and  furnish  the  floor  of  the  room, 
and  above  it  is  an  apparatus  that  will  throw  a shower-bath 
like  a small  deluge. 

This  is  a sample  of  the  best  houses  in  Caracas,  which  are 
constructed  upon  a similar  plan,  and  in  such  a way  as  to 
secure  the  greatest  degree  of  coolness.  The  sun  enters  the 
house  only  at  raid-day,  and  its  heat  is  only  felt  in  the  patio 
where  the  fountain  and  flowers  are.  When  it  rains  the 
water  falls  into  the  patio,  and  is  carried  off  by  drains  at  the 
base  of  the  fountain. 

There  is  no  need  of  fires  or  other  artificial  heat  at  any 
season  of  the  year,  and  the  little  fuel  that  enters  the  house 
is  charcoal  to  be  used  in  the  kitchen,  which  is  a curious 
place.  That  room  is  tiled  also,  the  walls  as  well  as  the  floor. 
There  is  no  stove  or  range,  but  in  one  corner  is  an  arrange- 
ment like  a blacksmith’s  forge,  with  half  a dozen  holes  for 
pots  and  kettles  and  gridirons,  under  which  are  kindled  as 
many  fires  as  the  cook  requires. 

Such  a house  as  this  costs  $20,000  or  $25,000,  and  lasts 
forever.  The  one  1 have  been  describing  was  erected  in 
1822,  and  still  remains  in  the  family  of  the  original  owner. 
It  is  rented  by  its  two  bachelor  occupants  for  $150  a 
month,  unfurnished,  and  the  expense  of  housekeeping  is 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


59 


about  tbe  same  as  in  the  United  States.  More  servants 
are  required  in  Venezuela  than  in  the  latter  country  or  in 
Europe,  and  they  are  not  well  trained  ; but  their  wages  are 
much  less.  A good  man-servant,  a cook,  or  butler,  or  valet 
can  be  obtained  for  seven  or  eight  dollars  a month,  and 
women  for  about  half  as  much.  These  bachelors  have  a 
butler,  a man  cook,  a boy  who  attends  to  the  parlor  and 
chambers  and  runs  on  errands,  and  a laundress  who  comes 
in  three  or  four  days  in  the  week  as  she  is  needed,  but  lives 
in  her  own  house. 

Most  of  the  laundry  work  in  the  country  is  done  by  wom- 
en on  the  banks  of  the  streams.  They  carry  the  clothing  in 
baskets  on  the  tops  of  their  heads,  to  and  fro,  wash  it  in  the 
cold  running  water,  pound  it  upon  the  rocks,  to  the  destruc- 
tion of  buttons,  and  spread  it  out  upon  the  grass  to  dry.  Some 
times  hot  water  and  tubs  are  used  when  the  washing  is  done 
in  the  houses,  but  there  is  not  such  a thing  as  a clothes-line 
or  a washboard  in  all  Venezuela.  In  the  rear  patios  of  most 
of  the  houses  is  a tank  for  water,  made  of  stones  and  ce- 
ment. In  this  the  clothes  are  washed,  and  there  is  a pile  of 
bowlders  as  big  as  cannon-balls  or  pumpkins,  upon  which 
the  garments  are  spread  to  dry.  People  from  the  United 
States  have  repeatedly  attempted  to  introduce  washing- 
machines,  clothes-bars,  and  clothes-lines,  but  the  native 
women  cannot  be  induced  to  use  them,  preferring  their 
own  awkward  way. 

There  is  a prevailing  prejudice  among  the  laboring 
classes  against  innovations,  particularly  labor-saving  ma- 
chines and  appliances.  No  native  peon  can  be  persuaded 
to  use  a wheelbarrow.  He  prefers  to  carry  his  load  upon 
his  head,  and  if  it  is  too  heavy  for  him,  he  seeks  the  as- 
sistance of  a friend  and  loads  it  upon  a sort  of  bier,  with 
double  handles  and  broad  straps  to  go  over  the  shoulders, 


60 


VENEZUELA 


to  be  lifted  and  carried  by  a man  at  either  end.  Heavy 
furniture  and  trunks  are  carried  miles  in  this  way. 

The  native  farmers  plough  with  a crooked  stick  with  one 
handle,  just  as  the  Egyptians  did  in  the  days  of  Moses,  and 
nothing  can  induce  them  to  adopt  the  modern  two-handled 
steel  affair.  They  simply  cannot  do  it.  General  Guzman 
Blanco,  who  was  always  favorable  to  the  introduction  of 
labor-saving  machinery  and  methods,  at  one  time  attempted 
to  enforce  the  use  of  improved  agricultural  implements,  but 
was  compelled  to  give  it  up.  The  productiveness  of  the 
republic  might  be  enormously  increased,  as  Guzman  real- 
ized, by  enabling  one  man  to  do  the  work  of  two  or  six  or 
ten,  for  the  great  drawback  is  the  scarcity  of  labor  ; but 
the  peons  are  stubborn — more  stubborn  than  stupid — and 
will  insist  upon  doing  everything  just  as  their  fathers  did, 
and  their  great  - grandfathers,  for  that  matter.  It  is  the 
same  spirit,  the  same  resistance  to  innovations,  that  causes 
them  to  ship  their  coffee  and  sugar  upon  the  backs  of  don- 
keys instead  of  by  the  railroad  ; that  requires  the  payment 
for  produce  to  be  made  in  coin  instead  of  checks ; and 
causes  that  coin  to  be  hidden  away  under  old  stumps  or 
cracks  in  the  roofs,  instead  of  being  deposited  in  banks  to 
draw  interest  and  increase  the  circulating  medium. 

The  working-men  and  mechanics  know  nothing  of  labor- 
saving  machinery.  All  the  timber  and  wood  - work  for 
house  - building  is  dressed  by  hand.  There  is  not  such  a 
thing  as  a planing-mill  or  a sash-factory  in  the  whole  coun- 
try, and  all  the  furniture  and  cabinet  - work  is  made  in  the 
same  way.  You  will  always  find  the  locks  placed  upon  the 
door-casings,  and  the  socket  for  the  bolt  screwed  upon  the 
door,  and  the  locks  invariably  upsidedown.  AVhen  you 
call  attention  to  it  you  are  told  that  it  is  the  custom  of  the 
country.  When  a house  is  being  erected,  whether  it  is  one 


THE  CAPITAL  OF  VENEZUELA 


61 


story  or  two,  the  solid  walls  are  first  raised  to  their  full 
height,  and  then  holes  are  chiselled  out  to  admit  the  ends 
of  the  rafters  and  timbers  for  the  floors.  It  never  occurs 
to  the  builder  that  an  easier  way  would  be  to  set  the  tim- 
bers in  the  walls  as  he  lays  the  bricks. 

When  a new  servant  is  engaged  the  employer  must  in- 
struct her  to  the  full  extent  of  her  duties  on  the  first  day. 
That  is  the  sample  of  all  days,  and  thereafter  she  will  do 
exactly  what  she  did  then  and  no  more.  The  morning 
after  our  arrival  at  the  hotel  in  Caracas  I called  for  a glass  of 
milk  while  dressing.  On  every  subsequent  morning  during 
our  stay  a glass  of  milk  was  brought  me  at  precisely  the 
same  hour,  without  instructions,  and  although  the  servant 
was  told  several  times  that  it  was  not  wanted,  she  did  not 
appear  to  understand,  and  continued  to  bring  it  just  the 
same. 

In  the  hotel  were  electric  bells.  The  first  day  I rang  for 
something,  and  a certain  boy  answered  the  summons.  The 
next  morning  I rang  again  and  again,  and  no  one  responded. 
Finally  I went  into  the  dining-room  and  found  there  half 
a dozen  servants. 

“ Didn’t  you  hear  my  bell  ring  ?”  I asked. 

“ Si,  senor,”  was  the  reply. 

“ Then  why  didn’t  you  answer  it  ?” 

“ The  boy  that  answers  your  excellency’s  bell  has  gone 
to  market  with  the  manager.” 

“ But  you  knew  he  was  not  here,  and  you  should  have 
come  in  his  place.” 

“ No,  senor  ; it  is  his  occupation  to  answer  your  bell.  I 
answer  the  bell  of  the  gentleman  in  the  next  room.” 

And  this  provoking  stubbornness  lasted  longer  than  my 
indignation.  As  long  as  I remained  in  that  hotel  my  bell 
was  only  answered  by  the  one  particular  boy.  If  he  was 


62 


VENEZUELA 


not  in  I could  ring  for  an  hour  without  receiving  a response, 
although  the  house  was  full  of  other  idle  servants. 

During  the  first  week  I was  in  the  habit  of  having  my 
coffee  and  rolls  brought  to  my  room,  instead  of  taking  them 
at  the  public  table,  and  they  were  served  at  exactly  eight 
o’clock  by  an  Indian  maid  named  Paula.  One  morning, 
when  I was  going  on  an  excursion,  I went  out  to  the  public 
table  at  six  o’clock,  and  ordered  my  dcsayuno,  as  they 
call  it.  Although  there  were  three  or  four  waiters  about 
serving  other  people  at  the  same  table,  none  of  them  could 
be  induced  to  wait  on  me.  Instead  of  doing  so  they  went 
off  to  the  other  part  of  the  house,  wakened  the  girl  Paula, 
and  she  finally  took  the  coffee  and  rolls  to  my  room,  as  she 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  doing.  It  was  her  business  to 
bring  my  coffee,  and  no  other  servant  would  do  so. 

But  as  a general  thing,  aside  from  this  stubborn  adhe- 
rence to  habit,  the  servants  are  honest,  docile,  and  obedient. 
Paula  was  especially  deserving  and  attentive,  and  the  state- 
ly air  with  which  she  carried  herself  was  amusing. 


CHAPTER  VI 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE 

There  is  an  old  building  with  thick  adobe  walls  at  Ca- 
racas which  is  as  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  South  American  patri- 
ots as  Independence  Hall  in  Philadelphia  is  to  the  people  of 
the  Northern  Continent,  and  for  similar  reasons.  One  side 
faces  the  Plaza  Bolivar,  and  from  the  windows  can  be  seen 
the  ancient  cathedral,  the  equestrian  statue  of  the  Great 
Liberator,  which  is  modelled  after  that  of  Andrew  Jackson 
in  front  of  the  White  House  at  Washington,  and  the  Casa 
Amarilla,  or  “ Yellow  House,”  in  which  the  president  re- 
sides. Opposite  the  west  wall  of  the  old  building,  across 
a shaded  street,  is  the  Palacio  Federal,  or  Capitol  of  the 
Republic,  in  which  the  Congress  sits  and  official  ceremoni- 
als are  held.  It  is  now  the  City  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  mu- 
nicipal government,  but  it  used  to  be  the  residence  of  the 
governor  when  the  country  was  a colony  of  Spain. 

In  this  building,  in  the  large  council-chamber  at  the  cor- 
ner, on  the  5th  of  July,  1811,  a “junta”  or  convention  of 
leading  citizens  assembled,  and  formally  proclaimed  their 
independence.  It  was  the  beginning  of  the  great  revolu- 
tion in  which  all  the  Spanish- American  colonies  threw  off 
the  yoke  of  Spain — the  first  step  towards  freedom  on  the 
Southern  Continent.  There  had  been  considerable  disturb- 
ance previously,  just  as  the  people  of  Boston  threw  the  tea 
overboard,  and  the  Spanish  governor  had  been  driven  away 


64 


VENEZUELA 


after  being  forced  to  abdicate  in  April  of  the  year  before; 
but  this  was  the  first  time  that  citizens  of  Spanish  America 
assembled  publicly  and  in  a solemn,  formal  manner  de- 
clared that  they  would  no  longer  submit  to  the  exactions 
or  obey  the  edicts  of  the  king. 

The  original  document,  in  the  bandwriting  of  Francisco 
Miranda,  hangs  upon  the  wall  to-day,  bearing  his  own  sig- 
nature and  those  of  sixty  or  more  of  his  fellow-patriots,  rep- 
resenting the  best  families  of  Venezuela.  It  is  faded  and 
frayed,  and  some  of  the  lines  are  almost  illegible,  but  it  is 
the  most  precious  historical  relic  in  the  country,  and  is  pre- 
served with  religious  care.  At  the  end  of  the  room  hangs  a 
large  painting,  perhaps  the  finest  work  of  art  in  Caracas, 
representing  the  scene  with  approximate  accuracy,  although 
some  of  the  many  figures  were  painted  from  memory.  It  re- 
sembles, in  the  grouping  of  the  characters  and  in  the  general 
treatment  of  the  subject,  a similar  picture  that  hangs  in  the 
rotunda  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington — the  signing  of  our 
own  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  foremost  figure,  and 
the  most  conspicuous,  is  that  of  a slender  man,  with  striking 
features,  and  soft  white  hair  worn  in  a queue.  He  is 
Francisco  Miranda,  the  first  leader  in  the  revolution  for  in- 
dependence in  South  America,  a native  of  Caracas,  and  the 
most  romantic  character  in  the  history  of  Venezuela.  Dr. 
Ernst,  the  German  scholar  and  scientist,  who  knows  the 
country  and  its  records  better  than  any  one  else,  and  can 
judge  from  an  impartial  standpoint,  being  a foreigner,  re- 
gards Miranda  as  the  ablest  and  most  brilliant  figure  in 
South  American  history,  and  the  ablest  man  Venezuela 
has  produced,  although  he  was  not  so  successful  a soldier 
as  Simon  Bolivar. 

Miranda  was  born  in  1754.  His  parents  belonged  to  one 
of  the  oldest  and  wealthiest  families  of  the  colony,  and  ac- 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  65 


cordino-  to  the  custom  of  their  class  the  son  was  sent  to 

O 

Spain  to  receive  his  education.  He  was  given  the  commis- 
sion of  a lieutenant  in  the  Spanish  army,  and  served  for  a 
time  in  Guatemala.  He  was  very  young,  but  even  at  that 
age  his  patriotism  revolted  at  the  treatment  of  the  colonies 
by  the  court  at  Madrid,  and  he  declined  to  participate  in 
such  outrages.  Therefore,  he  resigned  his  commission  and 
went  to  France,  wdiere  the  Marquis  de  Lafayette  was  pre- 
paring to  leave  for  North  America  to  aid  Washington  and 
the  Continental  Army.  The  young  marquis  had  been  once 
to  America,  had  served  two  years  as  a soldier,  and  at  this 
time,  1778,  had  returned  to  Paris  to  secure  funds  and  rein- 
forcements for  Washington.  Miranda,  who  was  about  the 
same  age,  twenty-five  years,  and  moved  in  the  same  social 
plane  as  Lafayette,  was  familiar  with  the  latter’s  career  in  the 
colonies,  and  from  his  friends,  as  well  as  from  Franklin,  Dean, 
and  Arthur  Lee,  the  revolutionary  commissioners  at  Paris, 
had  become  inspired  with  sympathy  for  the  struggling  col- 
onies and  a desire  to  assist  them.  Thus,  when  Lafayette 
called  for  assistance  he  was  the  first  to  volunteer.  In  Jan- 
uary, 1779,  he  sailed  from  Havre  to  Boston,  and  served  un- 
der Washington  until  the  end  of  the  war,  most  of  the  time 
on  the  staff  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant-colonel. 

It  was  during  this  service  that  an  ambition  was  con- 
ceived in  him  to  be  the  Washington  of  Venezuela,  the  liber- 
ator of  his  native  land,  and  as  soon  as  the  war  in  the 
Northern  Continent  was  over  he  sailed  for  South  America, 
and  raised  the  standard  of  liberty  in  1783. 

Venezuela  had  suffered  more  from  the  oppression  of  the 
Spanish  kings  than  any  other  of  the  colonies,  chiefly  be- 
cause she  produced  little  or  nothing  of  value.  From  the 
other  provinces  the  crown  got  gold  and  silver,  which  were 
the  only  products  regarded  as  worth  exportation  ; but  she 

5 


66 


VENEZUELA 


yielded  neither,  and  therefore,  not  being  thought  worthy 
of  attention,  was  left  to  the  mercy  of  brutal  and  despotic 
governors  sent  over  from  Madrid. 

In  1749  an  insurrection  was  raised  by  Juan  Francisco  de 
Leon,  one  of  the  most  intelligent  and  wealthy  of  the  plant- 
ers of  the  country,  but  he  was  easily  overcome,  and,  al- 
though he  managed  to  escape  capture,  his  family  were 
made  prisoners  and  sent  to  Spain,  his  buildings  were  razed 
to  the  ground,  and  his  hacienda,  the  finest  and  most  pro- 
ductive in  all  Venezuela,  was  sown  with  salt  by  order  of 
the  governor. 

In  1781  there  was  a similar  uprising,  simultaneous  with 
that  in  Ecuador  and  Peru,  where  the  natives  attempted  to 
overthrow  their  Spanish  oppressors,  and  restore  Tupac- 
Amaru,  the  descendant  of  the  ancient  Incas,  to  the  throne 
of  his  ancestors.  But  it  was  a failure,  and  the  unfortunate 
Amaru  was  sentenced  to  a punishment  that  makes  one 
shudder.  First  his  tongue  was  cut  out,  and  his  ears  were 
amputated  ; then  he  was  led  to  the  centre  of  the  plaza  at 
Cuzco  where  his  wife  and  children  were  all  butchered  in 
the  most  horrible  manner  before  his  eyes.  Ropes  wTere 
then  tied  around  his  ankles  and  his  wrists  and  attached  to 
four  horses,  which  were  started  slowly  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, so  that  his  body  was  gradually  torn  apart.  The 
fragments  were  then  gathered  up  and  hung  in  the  plaza  as 
a warning  to  traitors  to  the  Spanish  crown. 

Two  years  later  Francisco  Miranda,  with  the  fate  of  Ama- 
ru still  fresh  in  the  public  mind,  attempted  to  revive  the 
revolution,  and  it  is  not  strange  that  he  did  not  succeed. 
But  he  escaped  arrest  and  fled  to  Europe.  He  visited 
France,  Germany,  Italy,  and  Russia,  spending  two  or  three 
years  at  St.  Petersburg,  where  he  was  distinguished  by  the 
favor  of  Catherine  the  Great,  and  became  one  of  the  ac- 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  67 


cepted  lovers  of  that  remarkable  woman,  the  Cleopatra  of 
modern  times.  He  was  a man  of  brilliant  intellect,  grace- 
ful presence,  and  fascinating  manners,  wrote  poetry,  was 
gifted  in  music,  and  had  other  accomplishments  which  in 
those  days  made  him  a popular  and  useful  attache  of  any 
court.  But  his  motive  in  all  his  travels  seems  to  have 
been  patriotic,  to  excite  the  sympathy  and  obtain  the 
assistance  of  the  European  powers  to  secure  the  indepen- 
dence of  his  country,  and  the  furtherance  of  his  own  am- 
bition. Behind  the  gay  manners  of  a courtier  he  en- 
deavored to  conceal  the  craft  of  a diplomatist,  and  while 
entertaining  the  monarchs  and  millionaires  with  his  accom- 
plishments, he  was  striving  to  secure  financial  and  military 
aid  to  promote  his  darling  project. 

After  Miranda’s  death  his  papers  were  sold  to  the  Brit- 
ish government  by  his  son  Leandro  for  a considerable  sum 
of  money  in  hand  and  a life  pension  of  two  hundred  pounds, 
and  they  are  supposed  to  be  still  in  the  archives  of  the 
Foreign  Office  in  London.  Dr.  Jose  Maria  Rojas,  formerly 
of  Caracas,  but  now  residing  in  Paris,  where  he  some  years 
ago  purchased  the  title  of  marquis,  was  once  allowed  to  ex- 
amine these  documents,  and  obtained  possession  of  many 
others,  including  a thousand  or  more  letters  written  by  Mi- 
randa to  friends  in  Venezuela  during  his  residence  in  Eu- 
rope. With  this  material  the  marquis  prepared  a biography 
of  Miranda,  which  has  been  printed  in  French  and  Spanish, 
and  is  a most  entertaining  work.  The  Rojas  collection  has 
since  been  purchased  by  the  Venezuelan  government,  and 
will  no  doubt  be  published,  as  the  Bolivar  papers  have 
been. 

Among  these  papers  are  some  very  curious  and  interest- 
ing evidences  of  Miranda’s  amours  with  the  Empress  of 
Russia,  particularly  his  letters  to  friends  at  home,  in  which 


68 


VENEZUELA 


liis  adventures  and  daily  life  in  the  palace  at  Tsarskoe  Selo 
and  at  the  Hermitage  in  St.  Petersburg  are  described  at 
great  length  and  detail.  Their  publication,  if  they  are  al- 
lowed to  appear  intact,  will  create  a decided  sensation. 
Among  the  papers  in  the  British  archives  are  a number  of 
orders  for  money  to  be  paid  Miranda,  signed  by  Catherine 
and  addressed  to  her  chamberlain,  which  he  appears  never 
to  have  used. 

In  the  public  library  at  Caracas  Miranda’s  books  are  pre- 
served, and  his  literary  taste  and  culture  are  shown  by 
many  manuscript  notes  and  annotations  which  appear  in 
his  handwriting.  They  have  also  his  sash,  a fine  piece  of 
silk  net,  and  a beautiful  travelling-desk  of  inlaid  pearls,  which 
are  said  to  have  been  presented  to  him  by  his  imperial 
mistress.  Miranda  left  few  descendants,  and  such  as  sur- 
vive now  live  at  Lima,  Peru,  where  a grandson,  a gentle- 
man of  considerable  ability  and  notable  wit,  has  made  a 
reputation  in  literature  and  politics.  A grandniece  was 
murdered  at  Florence,  Italy,  in  1889,  by  a discarded  lover. 

With  all  his  diplomacy  and  wit  and  personal  charms, 
Miranda  failed  to  interest  Catherine  in  the  welfare  of  his 
country,  although  she  had  shown  marked  sympathy  with 
the  North  American  colonies  in  their  struggle  for  indepen- 
dence, and  for  this  reason  had  been  sought  by  him.  Either 
losing  his  patience  or  her  favor,  he  left  Russia  and  returned 
to  France,  where  he  participated  actively  in  the  French  Rev- 
olution and  became  a general  of  division.  He  was  held  re- 
sponsible for  the  loss  of  the  battle  of  Neerwinden,  tried 
before  a revolutionary  tribunal  for  complicity  in  the  treason 
of  Dumouriez,  and  acquitted,  although  he  was  deprived  of 
his  command  and  compelled  to  leave  the  country.  After 
spending  some  years  in  England  he  returned  to  Venezuela, 
but  received  no  encouragement  in  his  revolutionary  projects, 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  69 


and  in  1803  sailed  for  France.  Napoleon,  then  First  Con- 
sul, expelled  him  from  the  country,  and  he  sought  refuge  in 
the  United  States,  where  he  was  not  cordially  received  be- 
cause of  his  reputation  as  an  adventurer.  But  he  succeeded 
in  exciting  considerable  sympathy,  and  acquired  some  funds, 
with  which  he  organized  a filibustering  expedition  and 
sailed  for  Venezuela,  intending  to  drive  out  the  Spanish 
authorities  and  establish  a republic  with  himself  as  its  head. 
He  dreamed  of  a career  like  Washington’s,  but  his  enemies 
assert  that  Napoleon  Bonaparte  was  his  ideal,  and  that  his 
ambition  was  not  entirely  unselfish. 

The  Spanish  authorities  were,  however,  advised  of  his 
movements,  and  on  the  25tli  of  March,  1806,  when  he  ar- 
rived off  the  town  of  Ocumare,  half-way  between  the  ports 
of  La  Guayra  and  Puerto  Cabello,  he  was  attacked  by  a 
man-of-war,  lost  two  of  his  three  vessels  and  most  of  his 
troops  and  supplies,  and  narrowly  escaped  capture  himself. 
The  Governor  of  Caracas,  Don  Manuel  de  Guevara,  offered 
a reward  for  his  arrest  alive  and  $20,000  for  his  assassina- 
tion : but  he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  English  island  of 
Trinidad,  where  he  placed  himself  under  the  protection  of 
Admiral  Sir  Alexander  Cochrane,  commander  of  the  Brit- 
ish fleet.  Six  of  the  prisoners  taken  at  Ocumare,  citizens 
of  the  United  States,  were  beheaded,  ten  were  hung,  and 
the  remainder  were  imprisoned  in  the  dungeons  at  Puerto 
Cabello,  Cartbagena,  and  San  Juan  del  Puerto  Rico,  from 
which  they  never  escaped. 

The  English  at  this  time  were  at  war  with  Spain,  and 
Admiral  Cochrane  assisted  Miranda  in  fitting  out  an- 
other expedition,  with  which  he  landed  at  Coro,  on  the 
Venezuelan  coast,  at  the  head  of  six  hundred  men,  mostly 
Englishmen.  After  capturing  the  city  Miranda  raised  his 
standard  and  declared  a republic  ; but  he  met  with  no  sym- 


70 


VENEZUELA 


pathy  or  co-operation  from  tlie  people,  was  compelled  to 
retire,  and  sailed  for  Jamaica,  where  he  appealed  to  the 
English  governor  for  military  assistance.  The  latter  fail- 
ing to  respond,  Miranda  discharged  his  troops,  and  sailed 
for  London  to  lay  his  case  before  the  king  and  his  cabi- 
net ; but  they  had  matters  of  more  moment  to  absorb  their 
attention. 

Napoleon  I.  had  placed  his  foot  upon  the  rest  of  Europe 
and  was  grasping  at  the  crown  of  Spain.  England,  select- 
ing the  weaker  of  her  two  enemies,  attempted  to  save  the 
sceptre  of  Charles  IV.,  and  sent  gold  and  troops  into  the 
Peninsula.  Miranda,  disheartened  and  bewildered,  penni- 
less and  friendless,  led  a lonesome  life  in  the  coffee-houses 
and  low  resorts  of  London.  The  famous  courtier  was  glad 
of  any  breakfast  he  could  get.  In  the  meantime  Simon 
Bolivar,  a young  man  of  twenty-four  years,  whose  family 
had  been  intimate  with  that  of  Miranda  in  Caracas,  although 
lie  was  little  more  than  half  the  latter’s  age,  having  com- 
pleted his  education,  was  travelling  through  Europe.  He 
met  the  distressed  patriot  in  London,  and,  sympathizing 
with  his  opinions  and  plans,  furnished  him  funds  from  his 
own  well-filled  purse,  and  the  two  together  attempted  to 
excite  an  interest  in  the  affairs  of  their  country  among 
British  statesmen  and  soldiers. 

In  the  meantime  the  cause  of  liberty  had  been  gaining 
ground  in  Venezuela,  and  nearly  all  the  citizens  of  promi- 
nence belonged  to  republican  clubs.  When  Napoleon  made 
his  brother  Joseph  king  of  Spain  they  refused  their  alle- 
giance ; and,  although  they  had  suffered  terribly  under  the 
despotism  of  Ferdinand  V.,  declared  in  favor  of  his  dy- 
nasty. On  April  19,  1810,  the  French  governor  of  the 
colony  was  compelled  to  abdicate.  It  was  a national  feast- 
day,  and  all  the  citizens  were  in  the  streets.  As  the  gov- 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  71 


ernor  returned  to  bis  palace,  to  the  old  structure  I have 
described,  he  was  met  at  the  entrance  by  a mob  that  filled 
the  bouse,  conducted  to  the  council  - chamber,  and  there 
given  bis  choice  between  abdication  and  death.  He  signed 
the  renunciation  of  power  that  bad  been  prepared  for  him, 
and  sought  refuge  on  a French  man-of-war  then  lying  in 
the  harbor  at  La  Guayra.  A “junta”  or  committee  of 
citizens,  was  selected  to  administer  the  government,  and 
continued  to  exercise  authority  until  Bolivar  arrived  from 
England  with  Miranda,  when  the  latter  was  proclaimed 
commander-in-chief  of  the  armies  of  Venezuela  and  pro- 
visional president  of  the  republic.  In  a few  short  months 
be  bad  emerged  from  the  most  distressing  situation  of  bis 
life  to  enjoy  the  summit  of  bis  ambition,  as  it  is  always 
darkest  just  before  dawn.  But  a little  more  than  a year 
later  Miranda  was  a prisoner  in  the  bands  of  the  Span- 
iards, betrayed  by  those  who  bad  been  bis  warmest  friends. 

The  King  of  Spain  sent  over  an  army  and  a fleet,  under 
the  command  of  General  Monteverdo,  to  bring  the  rebels 
to  terms.  Miranda  was  at  the  bead  of  the  revolutionary 
army,  and  Bolivar,  then  only  twenty-six  years  old,  ranking 
as  a colonel,  was  in  command  of  the  most  important  fortress 
in  the  country,  in  the  harbor  of  Puerto  Cabello,  with  a slen- 
der garrison  and  1200  prisoners,  including  most  of  the  for- 
mer officials  of  the  colonial  government,  and  the  officers  of 
the  colonial  troops.  Unfortunately  for  him  and  for  bis 
country,  a mutiny  occurred,  the  prisoners  were  released, 
and  the  fortress,  with  nearly  all  the  munitions  of  war  upon 
which  the  patriots  were  depending,  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Spaniards.  Bolivar  escaped,  however,  and  fled  to  the 
estates  of  his  family  at  San  Mateo. 

The  Spaniards,  thus  reinforced,  and  amply  supplied  with 
arms  and  ammunition,  met  Miranda  in  the  battle  on  the 


VENEZUELA 


plain  beyond  Victoria,  and  compelled  him  to  sign  a treaty  of 
capitulation  in  which  the  sovereignty  of  Spain  was  recognized. 

Then  came  the  terrible  earthquake  which  destroyed  the 
city  of  Caracas  and  12,000  lives.  A whole  regiment  of 
the  patriot  army  was  buried  beneath  the  ruins  of  their 
barracks,  and  many  of  the  men  who  had  been  foremost 
in  the  republican  movement  were  also  killed.  The  priests, 
who  from  the  beginning  had  opposed  the  revolution  and 
adhered  to  the  Spanish  government,  pronounced  the  calam- 
ity a visitation  of  God,  and  the  doom  of  the  city  the  just 
judgment  of  Heaven  upon  the  unpardonable  crime  of  re- 
bellion against  the  king,  the  Lord’s  anointed. 

These  two  great  disasters  demoralized  the  patriots,  and  a 
bitter  controversy  arose  between  Bolivar  and  Miranda.  The 
latter  held  his  young  aid  responsible  not  only  for  the  loss 
of  the  fortress  at  Puerto  Cabello,  but  also  for  the  defeat  at 
Victoria,  as  a natural  consequence,  while  Bolivar  accused 
liis  commander  of  treason  to  the  republic  in  signing  arti- 
cles of  surrender  which  recognized  the  sovereignty  of  the 
Spanish  king.  The  feud  ended  by  Bolivar’s  denouncing 
Miranda  to  the  Spanish  commander.  On  the  31st  of  July, 
1812,  Miranda  was  arrested  at  La  Guayra,  placed  in  irons, 
and  taken  to  Spain,  where  he  was  imprisoned  in  a dungeon 
on  the  island  of  Ceuta,  at  the  tip  end  of  Africa,  opposite 
Gibraltar.  There  he  died  a few  years  after,  and  the  body 
of  a courtier  who  had  been  caressed  by  an  empress  was 
cast  into  the  sea. 

A noble  monument  in  bronze  has  been  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Miranda  in  the  plaza  before  the  Pantheon  in 
Caracas,  and  the  inscription  reads  : 

MIRANDA. 

Bom  in  Caracas,  June  9,  1756. 

Died  in  the  Arsenal  of  Ceuta,  July  14,  1816. 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  73 


On  the  opposite  side  of  the  pedestal,  in  letters  of  similar 
size,  is  this  inscription  : 

In  honor  to  his  memory, 

The  Illustrious  American, 

General  Guzman  Blanco, 

President  of  the  United  States 
of  Venezuela,  erected  this 
monument  in  1883. 

Suspended  upon  the  wall  beside  the  declaration  of  Vene- 
zuelan independence  in  the  old  council-chamber  is  another 
relic,  quite  as  precious,  and  even  more  interesting  to  the 
student  of  American  history,  because  of  its  age  and  as- 
sociations. When  Francisco  Pizarro  started  from  Cadiz 
for  the  conquest  of  Peru,  he  was  presented  with  a silken 
banner,  which  bore  the  escutcheon  of  the  dynasty  of 
Aragon  and  Castile,  embroidered  by  the  fair  hands  of  the 
queen.  Above  the  armored  hosts  of  Pizarro,  in  the  cruel 
butchery  of  the  innocent  and  harmless  incas,  whose  only 
crime  was  a feeble  defence  of  their  lives  and  hearthstones, 
this  banner  was  borne,  and,  with  the  cross  of  Christ  which 
they  carried  in  the  other  hand,  it  represented  the  system 
of  civilization  which  the  Spaniards  brought  from  the  Old 
World  to  the  New.  Under  its  dainty  folds  more  crime  was 
committed  and  more  innocent  blood  shed  than  an  eternity 
of  perdition  can  adequately  punish,  and,  although  the  work 
aud  the  gift  of  a pure  woman,  it  was  the  emblem  of  murder, 
robbery,  rapine,  and  devastation,  carried  to  a degree  that 
the  world  has  never  seen  elsewhere. 

When  Bolivar  liberated  Peru  from  the  yoke  of  the 
Spaniards,  this  banner  hung  in  the  Cathedral  of  Lima,  over 
the  rusty  bones  of  Pizarro,  and  its  captors  divided  it  into 
two  parts.  One  half  was  given  to  the  Liberator,  who 
brought  it  to  Caracas,  and  the  other  to  General  Sucre,  one 


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of  the  noblest  heroes  of  the  revolution,  who  presented  it  to 
the  National  Museum  at  his  native  city  of  Bogota,  where  it 
still  remains. 

There  are  other  interesting  mementos  here  also — a rude 
painting  of  the  humble  house  in  which  Bolivar  died,  and 
an  original  portrait  of  him,  made  in  Paris,  when  he  was 
very  young.  There  is  also  the  ever-present  full-length 
picture  of  Guzman  Blanco  in  a resplendent  uniform,  and 
several  handsomely  engrossed  and  illuminated  memorials 
which  had  been  from  time  to  time  presented  to  him  by  the 
citizens  of  Venezuela,  in  which  his  glories  and  virtues  are 
set  forth  in  high-sounding  verbs  and  lurid  adjectives. 

On  the  large  table  in  the  centre  of  the  room  is  the  official 
marriage-register  of  the  city,  for  there  all  the  civil  cere- 
monies are  performed.  For  several  years  the  civil  rite  of 
matrimony  has  alone  been  recognized  as  legal  by  the 
government  of  Venezuela,  although  most  of  the  people  go 
afterwards  to  the  church  and  have  their  marriage  sanctified 
by  the  priest.  The  governor  of  the  district,  the  judges  of 
the  courts,  the  justices  of  the  peace,  and  some  other  magis- 
trates are  authorized  to  perform  the  ceremony,  but  all  the 
weddings  must  take  place  in  this  room,  and  the  contract 
must  be  signed  there  in  the  presence  of  the  parents  of  the 
couple  or  other  competent  witnesses.  Before  the  cere- 
mony is  performed  a license  must  be  obtained  from  the 
register  of  the  city,  who  occupies  an  adjoining  room,  and 
a notice  to  that  effect  must  be  posted  for  ten  days  in  a 
public  place.  Just  outside  the  entrance  to  the  building, 
therefore,  is  a bulletin-board,  upon  which  the  matrimonial 
intentions  of  the  people  of  Caracas  are  made  known,  and 
those  who  pass  along  the  street  invariably  stop  to  inspect 
it,  in  order  to  see  who  of  their  friends  are  expecting  to 
be  “hitched.” 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  SOUTH  AMERICAN  INDEPENDENCE  75 


When  the  ten  days  are  past,  the  bridal  party  comes  here 
clad  in  bright  array,  accompanied  by  their  friends,  take 
the  vows,  and  sign  the  contract.  Then  they  go  to  the 
church.  The  favorite  time  for  weddings  is  at  nine  o’clock 
in  the  morning,  or  in  the  early  evening  about  dusk,  and 
there  is  usually  a crowd  of  curious  people  about  the  door 
waiting  to  see  the  ceremony,  which  does  not  differ  mate- 
rially from  that  in  vogue  in  the  United  States,  and  is  like 
that  used  by  the  civil  magistrates  of  France.  The  gov- 
ernor or  the  judge,  or  whoever  happens  to  be  on  hand 
to  do  the  business,  first  reads  the  law  to  the  candidates  for 
matrimony.  Then  he  reads  the  license  which  has  been 
previously  issued.  This  sets  forth  the  age,  nativity,  and 
occupation  of  the  parties,  with  some  other  statistical  in- 
formation, and  declares  that  there  is  no  legal  impediment 
in  the  way  of  the  union.  To  the  facts  stated  both  the 
bride  and  the  groom  have  to  make  oath,  as  well  as  their 
parents  if  they  happen  to  have  any,  and  the  witnesses  se- 
lected by  them.  After  this  formula  has  been  finished,  the 
judge  takes  the  bride  aside,  and  asks  if  she  is  acting  of 
her  own  free-will  and  accord,  or  if  compulsion  has  been 
exercised  to  influence  her.  If  she  says  “ no”  to  the  latter 
question,  he  asks  the  same  question  of  the  groom,  thus 
giving  him  a chance  to  back  out  if  he  desires.  Then  the 
couple  are  commanded  to  stand  up  and  clasp  their  right 
hands.  Jose  Francisco  is  made  to  repeat  after  the  judge 
a formula  in  which  he  declares  that  he  takes  Maria  Con- 
cepcion to  be  his  beloved  wife,  to  have  and  to  hold,  etc., 
and  Maria  Concepcion  in  a similar  manner  accepts  Jose 
Francisco  as  her  beloved  husband  to  an  equal  extent  and 
under  the  same  conditions,  until  death  do  them  part.  Then 
blank  contracts  are  brought  out,  which  have  been  prepared 
in  advance  for  their  signatures,  one  for  the  bride  and  one 


76 


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for  the  groom,  while  a third  copy  is  made  in  a book  which 
is  kept  for  the  purpose,  and  is  accessible  to  any  citizen. 
Finally,  when  all  these  proceedings  have  been  satisfacto- 
rily performed,  the  couple  stand  up  and  take  hold  of  hands 
again,  and  the  judge,  “in  the  presence  of  God  and  all 
these  witnesses,  and  in  the  name  of  the  Republic  of  Vene- 
zuela,” pronounces  them  man  and  wife. 

Sometimes  the  judge  kisses  the  bride,  and  sometimes 
he  doesn’t.  It  depends  upon  circumstances.  If  he  knows 
her  well  and  she  is  pretty,  he  gives  her  a “ salute,”  as  they 
call  it;  and  there  is  usually  a good  deal  of  “saluting”  and 
sobbing  and  wiping  of  misty  eyes  among  the  women,  while 
the  men  embrace  and  say  “Amigo!  amigo!"  to  each  other, 
which  means  “friend.” 


CHAPTER  VII 

SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 

It  was  Tom  Ochiltree,  the  witty  Texan,  I think,  who  once 
said  to  his  friends  that  he  preferred  more  “ taffy  ” while  he 
lived  and  less  “epitaphy  ” when  he  died.  If  the  long  list  of 
Venezuelan  leaders  could  have  heard  this  remark  they  would 
have  applauded  it  vociferously,  for  few  of  them  have  been 
permitted  to  live  or  die  in  peace  or  among  their  people. 
While  the  capital  of  their  country  is  decorated  with  their 
monuments,  the  public  buildings  embellished  with  their 
portraits,  and  the  National  Museum  filled  with  their  relics 
and  mementos  of  their  careers,  most  of  them  have  died  in 
exile  or  in  prison  cells. 

Miranda’s  last  days  were  passed  in  the  prison  on  the 
island  of  Ceuta,  Spain  ; Bolivar’s  in  a lonely  cabin  at  Santa 
Marta,  Colombia;  Paez’s  in  banishment  in  New  York; 
Monagas’s  in  a dungeon  at  Maracaibo ; Falcon’s  at  Mar- 
tinique ; and  others  that  might  be  mentioned  have  died 
without  mourners  and  have  been  buried  by  the  hands  of 
aliens,  yet  posterity  has  embalmed  their  memories  and  does 
honor  to  their  dust. 

Of  all  the  men  who  have  been  conspicuous  in  Venezuelan 
history,  Simon  Bolivar  stands  first  in  the  reverence  of  the 
world,  and  justly  so ; for  he  was  not  only  the  liberator  of 
his  native  land,  but  of  the  four  neighboring  republics — Co- 
lombia, Ecuador,  Peru,  and  Bolivia,  which  was  christened 


78 


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in  his  honor.  They  have  raised  statues  to  him  in  all  the 
principal  cities ; they  have  called  states,  cities,  and  prov- 
inces by  his  name ; and  the  standard  coin  of  Venezuela, 
equal  in  value  to  the  French  franc,  is  called  a Bolivar  (pro- 
nounced Bo-lee-ver).  The  public  veneration  for  his  mem- 
ory is  even  greater  than  that  for  Washington  and  Lincoln 
in  the  United  States,  and  the  common  people  regard  him 
as  the  peasants  of  Russia  regard  Peter  the  Great. 

In  the  museum  at  Caracas  is  a room  set  apart,  like  the 
Holiest  of  Holies,  for  the  preservation  and  the  exhibition 
of  his  relics,  collected  at  great  expense  in  all  parts  of  the 
world.  His  correspondence  has  been  gathered,  the  origi- 
nals when  possible,  and  many  copies,  from  Colombia,  Ecua- 
dor, Peru,  Bolivia,  the  United  States,  and  the  countries  of 
Europe,  and  published  at  government  expense  in  a series 
of  volumes,  like  the  Records  of  the  War  of  the  Rebellion 
in  the  United  States.  Every  scrap  of  paper  bearing  his 
autograph,  all  the  orders  he  issued  when  in  command  of 
the  armies  of  the  struggling  young  republics,  every  letter 
he  wrote  in  his  romantic  and  stormy  life,  has  been  relig- 
iously preserved  for  the  inspection  of  the  people,  and  to  in- 
spire them  with  the  patriotic  sentiments  he  cherished.  The 
clothing  he  wore,  the  dishes  and  plate  he  used,  his  camp- 
chest  and  writing-chest  and  writing-desk,  his  swords  and 
revolvers,  his  sash  and  boots,  his  books  and  papers,  even 
his  coffin  and  the  pall  that  covered  his  remains  when  they 
were  last  laid  to  rest  are  also  preserved,  lie  was  originally 
buried  at  Santa  Marta,  where  he  died.  Twelve  years  later 
the  body  was  brought  to  Caracas  with  great  ceremony,  and 
deposited  in  a chapel  of  the  cathedral,  but  his  heart  was 
removed  and  retained  in  an  urn  in  the  old  church  at  Santa 
Marta  where  masses  were  first  sung  for  his  soul. 

Then,  when  Guzman  Blanco  erected  a Pantheon  for  the 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  79 

burial  of  tbe  distinguished  dead,  and  sent  agents  of  the 
government  to  bring  home  the  bones  of  patriots  who  had 
died  in  exile,  the  remains  of  Bolivar  were  for  a second 
time  removed,  and  placed  in  a magnificent  and  impressive 
marble  sepulchre.  Upon  it  is  a statue  of  the  hero  repre- 
sented as  standing  in  a listening  attitude,  with  a military 
cloak  hanging  from  his  shoulders,  and  his  hand  upon  the 
hilt  of  his  sword.  On  one  side  is  a statue  of  Plenty  scat- 
tering coins  from  a tray;  on  the  other,  one  of  Justice;  while 
in  bass-relief  is  a procession  of  female  figures  representing 
the  arts  and.  sciences.  The  inscription  upon  the  monument 
is : 

SIMON  BOLIVAR. 

Cineres  hie  condit  honorat 
grata  et  memor  patria. 

1852. 

There  is  another,  an  equestrian  statue  to  Bolivar  in  the 
principal  plaza  of  the  city,  which  is  surrounded  by  the 
president’s  residence,  the  cathedral,  the  municipal  build- 
ings, the  foreign  relations  office,  and  the  post-office  de- 
partment. This  is  a splendid  figure  mounted  upon  a rear- 
ing horse  like  that  of  Andrew  Jackson  in  Lafayette  Square 
at  Washington.  And  nearly  every  town  of  size  in  the 
country  has  done  similar  honor  to  the  Liberator.  In  that 
branch  of  the  museum  which  is  devoted  to  his  relics  are 
two  models  for  monuments  which  were  submitted  several 
years  ago,  when  the  government  of  Colombia  intended  to 
erect  one  by  the  side  of  that  of  Columbus  upon  the  Isth- 
mus of  Panama.  There  are  also  numerous  portraits  scat- 
tered through  the  public  buildings,  some  of  them  painted 
from  life,  and  others  post  mortem.  His  bust  in  marble, 
bronze,  and  plaster  is  seen  upon  every  hand,  and  prints  of 


80 


VENEZUELA 


his  face  are  hung  in  almost  every  shop  and  residence. 
Thus,  as  his  face  appears  also  upon  all  the  paper  money  of 
the  country,  and  upon  all  the  coins,  it  is  very  familiar. 

One  of  the  most  highly  valued  pieces  in  the  Bolivar  col- 
lection is  a miniature  of  Washington,  an  original,  painted 
on  ivory  by  some  artist  whose  name  I do  not  recall,  en- 
closed in  an  antique  velvet  case.  It  was  presented  to  Bol- 
ivar in  1828  by  George  Washington  Parke  Custis,  of 
Mount  Vernon,  and  bears  this  inscription  : 

This  picture  of  the  Liberator  of  North  America  is  sent  by  his  adopted 
son  to  him  who  acquired  equal  glory  in  South  America. 

Bolivar’s  birthplace  is  marked  by  a tablet  of  marble,  in- 
scribed : 

Here  wras  born 
SIMON  BOLIVAR 
July  24,  1783. 

The  house  is  very  near  the  centre  of  the  city  of  Caracas, 
across  a narrow  plaza  from  the  market,  and  adjoins  the 
little  Protestant  chapel.  In  its  day  it  was  one  of  the  finest 
residences  in  the  capital,  but  it  now  stands  in  the  business 
section,  and,  like  the  old  Palace  of  the  Inquisition  at  Car- 
thagena,  is  a tobacco  factory. 

In  the  collection  at  the  museum  are  Bolivar’s  diplomas, 
his  commission  in  the  colonial  army,  and  the  certificate  of 
his  enrolment  in  school.  In  the  parochial  records  of  the 
cathedral  appears  this  quaint  record  of  his  baptism,  after 
the  fashion  of  those  days  : 

“ In  the  city  of  Mariana  de  Caracas,  on  30th  of  July, 
1783,  Don  Juan  Felix  Jeres  y Aristeguieta,  an  elder,  with 
the  permission  given  him  by  one,  the  undersigned,  Cu- 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  81 

rate  of  this  lioly  cathedral,  baptized,  anointed,  and  blessed 
Simon  Jose  Antonio  de  la  Sanctissima  Trinidad,  a child 
Lorn  on  the  24th  inst.,  legitimate  son  of  Don  Juan  Vicente 
Bolivar  and  Dona  Maria  Concepcion  Palacio  y Sojo,  na- 
tives and  citizens  of  this  city.  His  godfather  was  Don 
Feliciano  Palacio  y Sojo,  to  whom  the  spiritual  relation- 
ship and  obligations  were  made  known.  And  to  certify 
this  act  I affix  my  signature.  Date  up  supra. 

“Bachiller  Manual  Antonio  Fajardo.” 

Bolivar’s  family  were  rich.  They  were  among  the 
hidalgos,  the  grandees  of  the  colony,  and  came  from  the 
aristocracy  of  Spain.  They  owned  a pretentious  residence 
in  Caracas  and  large  estates  in  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. One  of  their  plantations  was  just  outside  the  limits  of 
the  city,  an  easy  ride  on  horseback.  Another  that  they 
owned,  and  the  most  extensive,  is  near  Victoria,  about  half- 
way between  Caracas  and  Valencia,  and  a third,  San  Mateo, 
is  near  the  latter  city.  Bolivar  was  received  into  the 
Church  when  he  was  seven  years  old,  and  the  record  of  his 
confirmation  is  still  shown,  lie  was  educated  in  the  ru- 
dimentary branches  by  Don  Simon  Rodriguez,  a famous 
scholar  of  the  time,  and  a man  of  most  eccentric  habits — 
a sort  of  local  Diogenes.  Afterwards  he  had  several  other 
tutors,  among  them  a Capuchin  monk  named  Padre  Andu- 
jar,  who  had  great  influence  in  the  formation  of  his  char- 
acter. His  father  died  when  he  was  three  years  old,  and 
his  mother  when  he  was  fifteen.  Don  Cator  Palacio,  his 
maternal  uncle,  became  his  guardian,  and  the  trustee  of  a 
large  property,  which  was  divided  between  him  and  his 
two  brothers.  When  lie  was  sixteen  he  was  mustered  in 
as  a lieutenant  of  the  militia,  and  assigned  to  a regiment  of 
which  his  father  had  for  many  years  been  the  commander. 

6 


82 


VENEZUELA 


When  he  was  eighteen  years  old,  in  company  with  a 
tutor,  he  made  a voyage  to  Cuba  and  Mexico.  At  the 
latter  place  he  lived  in  the  house  of  the  Marquesa  de 
Inuapa,  which  is  still  standing  and  contains  a portrait  of 
the  young  traveller  painted  at  this  time  and  presented  to 
his  hostess  as  a memento.  It  was  on  this  voyage  that  the 
career  of  the  Liberator  came  very  near  being  cut  off  as  it 
was  commencing.  The  vessel  upon  which  he  sailed  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  Havana  was  caught  in  a gale  on  the  Gulf  and 
foundered,  but  after  living  in  peril  for  thirteen  days  its 
passengers  and  crew  were  rescued.  Returning  from  this 
trip  Bolivar  was  sent  to  Spain  to  complete  his  education, 
and  was  received  at  court,  where  his  maternal  family  were 
in  great  favor.  There  he  had  an  adventure  which,  in  the 
light  of  events  that  have  since  transpired,  might  be  con- 
sidered ominous.  The  Prince  Royal  Ferdinand  and  he 
were  one  day  playing  battle-door  and  shuttle  - cock  in 
the  court -yard  of  the  palace,  when  they  quarrelled,  and 
the  young  republican  smote  the  heir  - apparent  to  the 
throne  of  Spain  over  the  head  with  his  bat.  This  was  a 
crime,  but  the  Queen,  Marie  Louise,  who  appears  to  have 
been  a sensible  woman,  insisted  that  he  should  not  be 
punished,  because  the  prince,  in  inviting  Bolivar  to  play, 
had  descended  to  his  level,  and  should  take  the  conse- 
quences. It  was  from  Ferdinand,  a few  years  after,  that 
Bolivar  wrested  the  colony  of  Venezuela. 

After  spending  some  time  at  Madrid,  Bolivar  made  a 
tour  of  Europe  with  his  tutor,  and  remained  through  the 
winter  at  Paris,  where  the  great  Napoleon,  then  First 
Consul,  was  just  inaugurating  the  brilliant  era  of  the  res- 
toration. By  reason  of  his  wealth,  his  social  position, 
and  the  letters  of  introduction  he  brought,  the  young 
Venezuelan  secured  admission  to  the  court,  and  attracted 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  83 

the  notice  of  Napoleon,  wlio  several  times  conversed  with 
him  concerning  South  American  affairs.  The  youthful 
mind  was  profoundly  impressed  with  the  greatness  as  well 
as  the  condescension  of  “ The  Little  Corporal,”  and  un- 
doubtedly this  incidental  contact  with  the  conqueror  of 
Europe  furnished  the  foundation  for  his  career,  and  awak- 
ened an  ambition  that  was  never  quenched  or  satisfied. 
Upon  his  return  to  Madrid,  Bolivar  was  married,  before  he 
was  twenty,  to  the  Senorita  Teresa  Toro  y Alayaza,  and 
sailed  for  his  home  in  Caracas  ; but  ten  months  after  their 
arrival  his  wife  died.  The  shadow  of  this  sorrow  hung 
over  his  whole  life,  and  he  must  have  loved  the  woman 
devotedly,  for  although  he  was  a man  of  social  disposition, 
and  much  courted  by  society  because  of  his  wealth,  his 
talents,  and  his  prominence,  he  never  married  again,  and 
left  no  one  to  bear  his  name.  The  death  of  his  wife  also 
had  a permanent  influence  upon  his  public  career,  even 
more,  perhaps,  than  his  impressions  of  Napoleon,  for  in  a 
letter  to  a friend  he  once  said  that  had  she  lived  he 
would  doubtless  only  have  been  known  as  the  Alcalde 
of  San  Mateo,  instead  of  the  Liberator  of  half  a conti- 
nent. 

“If  I had  not  been  bereaved,”  he  wrote,  “my  life  would 
have  been  very  different.  I loved  her  very  much,  and  at 
her  death  I took  an  oath  never  again  to  marry.  I aban- 
doned my  home  and  gave  myself  up  to  my  ambition.  The 
death  of  my  wife  placed  me  in  the  road  of  politics,  and 
caused  me  to  follow  the  chariot  of  Mars  instead  of  the 
plough  of  Ceres.” 

The  only  living  descendant  or  relative  of  Bolivar  is  his 
nephew,  Don  Fernando  Bolivar,  an  aged  and  childless  man, 
who  recently  resided  near  the  United  States  Legation  at 
Caracas.  With  his  death  the  name  of  the  Liberator  dis- 


84 


VENEZUELA 


appears,  although  he  is  reputed  to  have  left  many  illegiti- 
mate children. 

Much  has  been  written  by  Bolivar’s  enemies  concerning 
his  relations  with  women,  and  if  one-quarter  of  it  is  true 
he  was  a notorious  and  conscienceless  roue.  Even  his 
biographer  admits  that  he  was  a man  of  licentious  habits, 
strong  passions,  and  inordinately  fond  of  pleasure,  and 
there  is  a scandalous  volume,  printed  in  Paris  in  1858,  de- 
voted exclusively  to  his  adventures  and  amours.  It  may 
be  found  in  nearly  every  library  of  note  in  South  America, 
and  has  been  widely  read.  The  book  is  made  up  almost 
exclusively  of  letters  written  by  his  associates  to  their 
friends,  recounting  incidents  in  his  career  in  Venezuela, 
Colombia,  Bolivia,  and  Peru,  and  contains  some  of  his  own 
amorous  correspondence  with  his  mistresses.  The  title  is 
deceptive,  as  it  reads : “ Memorias  y Documentos  par  del 
la  Independence  y Simon  Bolivar,”  and  the  pseudonyme  of 
the  author  and  compiler  is  “ Pruvenena.”  There  is  no  good 
biography  of  the  Liberator  in  English,  nor  in  Spanish,  for 
that  matter,  for  all  the  books  about  him  have  been  written 
either  by  his  devoted  friends,  who  deify  him,  or  by  his 
rivals  and  enemies,  who  have  endeavored  to  disparage  his 
achievements  and  detract  from  his  reputation.  The  most 
impartial  biography  was  written  by  Dr.  Larrazabal,  and 
published  by  E.  O.  Jenkins,  of  New  York,  in  1865.  But 
the  character  of  the  man — and  there  have  been  few  abler 
statesmen  or  more  accomplished  courtiers,  or  men  of  greater 
military  genius — can  best  be  studied  and  judged  by  read- 
ing the  somewhat  tedious  official  collection  of  his  corre- 
spondence published  by  the  government  of  Venezuela. 

After  the  death  of  his  wife  Bolivar  returned  at  once  to 
Europe,  taking  her  body  with  him,  and  remained  there  for 
some  years.  Accompanied  by  his  brother-in-law,  Don  Fer- 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  85 

nando  Toro,  lie  went  to  Paris  and  witnessed  the  triumph  of 
Napoleon ; saw  him  seated  upon  the  imperial  throne  and 
crowned  as  emperor.  lie  spent  many  weeks  in  the  court 
at  the  Tuileries  and  at  the  palace  of  Versailles,  and  fol- 
lowed the  emperor  to  Milan,  when  he  saw  his  coronation 
as  King  of  Italy.  Near  Castiglione  he  witnessed  the  great 
review,  and  followed  the  train  of  the  emperor  to  Florence, 
Rome,  and  Naples.  Then  he  visited  Egypt,  and,  returning 
to  Rome,  joined  Don  Simon  Rodriguez,  his  former  tutor  at 
Caracas,  under  whose  instruction  he  remained  some  time  in 
studying  ancient  history  and  the  classics  among  the  ruins 
of  the  Eternal  City.  It  was  then  and  there,  according  to 
his  own  account  and  the  corroborating  testimony  of  Rod- 
riguez, he  formed  the  plans  that  he  followed  in  his  after- 
life, and  reached  a determination  to  give  his  strength,  his 
talents,  and  his  fortune  to  the  liberation  of  his  country. 
Seated  one  day  upon  Mount  Aventino  ( Sacrum  Montem)  he 
grasped  the  hand  of  his  tutor  and  swore,  by  that  holy  and 
historic  land,  to  devote  the  rest  of  his  life  to  the  freedom 
of  Venezuela. 

Proceeding  to  Paris  he  made  the  acquaintance  of  Baron 
von  Humboldt,  who  had  just  returned  from  his  first  visit 
to  South  America.  Then  he  went  to  Holland,  and  from 
Hamburg  sailed  for  the  United  States.  He  visited  Boston, 
New  York,  Niagara  Falls,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  AVasli- 
ington,  Mount  Vernon,  Richmond,  and  Charleston.  At  the 
latter  port  he  found  a vessel  about  to  leave  for  A7enezuela, 
and  took  passage  in  her  for  home,  reaching  Caracas  during 
the  latter  days  of  1806. 

At  the  tomb  of  Washington  he  is  said  to  have  taken  a 
second  oath  of  devotion  to  the  cause  of  Venezuelan  inde- 
pendence, and  to  have  made  a vow  to  serve  his  country  as 
he  upon  whose  grave  he  stood  had  served  the  colonies  of 


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North  America.  Washington  had  then  been  dead  some 
years,  but  his  widow  was  still  surviving,  and  lived  at  Mount 
Vernon  with  her  children. 

At  once  upon  his  arrival  at  Caracas  Bolivar  became  a 
leader  among  the  revolutionary  propagandists,  and,  with 
his  two  brothers  and  other  young  men  of  similar  rank  and 
wealth,  entered  the  army,  and  commenced  the  work  of  con- 
verting their  fellow-officers  to  the  cause  of  freedom.  Boli- 
var was  at  this  time  but  twenty-five  years  old,  and  from  his 
estates  had  an  income  of  $25,000  a year,  which  in  those 
days  was  an  enormous  sum  of  money.  And  he  owned 
over  1000  slaves,  which  were  afterwards  manumitted.  He 
was  under-size  in  stature,  and  of  slight  but  muscular  frame. 
A writer  of  the  time,  in  giving  a pen-picture  of  the  future 
hero,  said:  “His  eyes  are  large,  dark,  and  languid;  but 
when  his  attention  is  aroused  they  attest  the  internal  fire 
and  the  overflowing  soul.  His  movements  are  quick  and 
determined,  but  graceful.  He  is  fluent  in  speech,  and 
nervously  animated  in  his  gestures,  and  his  voice  is  sharp 
and  clear.  His  complexion  is  naturally  dark,  but  has  been 
darkened  more  by  exposure;  his  beard  is  trimmed  to  his 
cheeks  and  chin,  according  to  the  usages  of  the  times; 
his  eyebrows  are  thick  and  arched,  and  his  mouth  wears  a 
pleasant  but  impatient  expression.  He  stands  erect,  like  a 
soldier,  and  has  the  muscles  of  an  athlete.  His  horseman- 
ship is  superior,  and  as  a swordsman  he  surpasses,  because 
lie  was  educated  in  the  manly  arts  in  the  gymnasiums  of 
Paris.  Ilis  manners  are  those  of  an  accomplished  court- 
ier ; his  wit  is  quoted  in  every  salon  in  Caracas ; he  is  a 
reigning  favorite  among  his  own  sex,  and  especially  among 
the  ladies.” 

Torrente,  a Spanish  official  writing  at  this  time  to  his 
superiors  at  Madrid  concerning  the  revolutionary  move- 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  87 

ment  in  Venezuela,  speaks  of  “ one  Simon  Bolivar,  a 
lieutenant  in  tlie  white  battalion  of  Aragua,  a turbulent 
youth,  distinguished  for  his  wit,  his  wealth,  the  illustrious- 
ness of  his  birth,  and  his  immeasurable  ambition,”  so  that 
the  designs  of  the  young  man  had  been  revealed  soon  after 
his  arrival.  But  Bolivar  seems  to  have  taken  no  part  in 
the  insurrection  of  Miranda  in  1708,  although  he  was  pres- 
ent and  a participant  in  some  of  the  local  outbreaks  at 
Caracas.  The  repressive  measures  of  the  Spanish  governor 
compelled  the  young  patriots  to  conceal  their  movements, 
and  it  was  their  habit  to  meet  as  if  socially,  and  not  in  the 
city,  but  at  the  estancias,  or  plantations,  of  their  friends, 
under  the  pretence  of  celebrating  their  birthdays  and  the 
anniversaries  of  their  patron  saints.  In  1810  Bolivar  was 
openly  accused  of  sedition,  and  was  compelled  to  conceal 
himself  on  an  estancia  in  the  valley  of  the  Tuy,  a consider- 
able distance  from  the  capital,  to  avoid  arrest  and  impris- 
onment. Shortly  after  he  sailed  for  Europe,  where  he  met 
Miranda,  and  on  the  5th  of  December,  1810,  returned  to 
Caracas,  bringing  the  latter  with  him. 

Then  came  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  organi- 
zation of  the  republic,  with  Miranda  as  military  chief,  the 
capture  of  the  citadel  at  Puerto  Cabello,  the  defeat  of  the 
revolutionary  army  at  Victoria,  the  quarrel  of  Bolivar  and 
Miranda,  and  the  betrayal  of  the  latter  to  the  Spanish  au- 
thorities, which  is  the  most  painful  and  questionable  epi- 
sode in  the  life  of  the  Liberator.  But  his  motives  appear 
in  his  answer  to  the  Spanish  governor,  when  the  latter 
thanked  him  for  the  service  done  to  the  kino-. 

O 

“ I surrender  Miranda  to  punish  a traitor  to  my  country,” 
was  the  reply,  “ and  not  to  do  a service  to  the  king.” 

The  governor  was  about  to  order  Bolivar’s  arrest,  when 
one  of  his  aides  interposed. 


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“Don’t  mind  this  rash  youth,”  he  said.  “ lie  has  done 
us  a good  service.  Give  him  a passport  and  let  him  go.” 

When  the  revolutionists  had  recovered  from  their  de- 
moralization Bolivar  became  their  leader,  and  continued 
as  such  until  the  end  of  the  war.  Then  he  united  Vene- 
zuela, Colombia,  and  Ecuador  in  a confederation,  and  be- 
came their  first  president.  Leaving  the  government  in 
charge  of  the  vice-president,  he  went  to  Peru  and  Bolivia, 
where  he  took  command  of  the  revolutionary  armies,  and 
accomplished  their  independence.  He  resigned  the  dicta- 
torship of  Peru  in  1826  and  became  “Perpetual  President 
and  Protector”  of  Bolivia,  but  the  following  year  returned 
to  his  own  country,  and  was  re-elected  president.  But 
General  Paez,  who  had  been  one  of  his  most  effective  aids 
in  the  revolution,  defied  his  authority,  assumed  the  dicta- 
torship of  Venezuela,  and  proclaimed  its  separation  from 
the  confederation.  The  Colombians  still  supported  Bolivar, 
and  again  elected  him  president.  lie  returned  to  Caracas, 
but  his  native  country  refused  to  receive  him.  Ills  ban- 
ishment was  decreed,  and  he  took  refuge  at  Santa  Marta, 
where,  a few  months  later,  lie  died  of  a broken  heart  after 
writing  an  address  to  his  fellow-countrymen,  in  which  he 
reproached  them  for  their  ingratitude  to  one  who  had  de- 
voted his  whole  life  and  his  entire  fortune  to  secure  their 
liberty. 

The  house  in  which  Bolivar  died  was  a deserted  little 
country  chateau,  or  quinta,  as  it  is  called  in  Colombia, 
about  five  miles  from  the  ancient  and  decayed  town  of 
Santa  Marta.  The  plantation  was  known  as  “ San  Perro,” 
and  belonged  to  a friend  with  whom  the  Liberator  had 
been  intimate  at  Bogota.  When  he  was  expelled  from 
Venezuela  he  happened  to  meet  this  friend,  and,  being 
ill  and  despondent,  gladly  accepted  an  invitation  to  spend 


SIMON  BOLIVAR,  THE  WASHINGTON  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA  89 

a few  months  of  rest  and  recreation  at  his  quiet  retreat. 
There  he  retired,  and  his  whereabouts  was  unknown  to  the 
public.  Few  of  the  people  of  the  then  active  and  influen- 
tial city  of  Santa  Marta  were  aware  that  the  leader  of  their 
fight  for  liberty  was  so  near  them,  or  he  might  have  re- 
ceived more  attention  during  his  dying  days.  Bolivar’s 
host  returned  to  Bogota,  at  his  request  it  is  said,  to  ascer- 
tain public  sentiment  and  the  political  situation,  while  he 
remained  in  seclusion,  but  witb  no  company  but  the  ser- 
vants of  the  quinta.  For  several  weeks  he  was  engaged 
in  the  preparation  of  his  farewell  address;  and  in  its  pa- 
thetic and  reproachful  lines  there  seems  evidence  of  a 
premonition  that  his  end  was  near.  On  the  17th  of 
December,  1830,  he  breathed  his  last,  with  none  but  the 
Indian  attendants  around  him. 

The  house  is  now  preserved  with  some  care,  and  con- 
tains a bust  in  marble  and  several  portraits  of  the  Libera- 
tor. It  is  seldom  visited  because  it  is  so  inaccessible.  A 
steamer  visits  Santa  Marta  from  Savanilla,  Colombia,  twice 
a month,  but  the  city  is  no  longer  of  any  commercial  im- 
portance, and  its  population  has  decreased  with  its  trade. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA 

Across  the  street  from  the  old  market-house  at  Caracas 
is  a pretty  plaza  in  which  stands  one  of  Guzman  Blanco’s 
many  ornaments,  a bronze  statue  of  his  father.  The  in- 
scription is  much  criticised  by  those  who  are  familiar  with 
the  history  of  Venezuela.  It  reads : 

ANTONIO  LEOCADIO  GUZMAN, 

Secretary  of  the  Liberator, 

Illustrious  Leader 
in  the 

Independence  of  South  America, 

Editor  of  the  Venezuelano, 
and  Founder  of  the  Liberal  Party 
in  Venezuela. 

Then,  by  poetic  license,  for  Guzman  Blanco  the  son 
placed  the  statue  here  himself,  appear  the  words: 

The  National  Congress  in  1882, 
expressing  the  desire  of  the  people, 
erected  this  monument. 

No  one  objects  to  the  filial  devotion  which  induced  Guz- 
man Blanco  to  erect  a memorial  to  his  father,  who  was, 
during  his  long  and  eventful  life,  one  of  the  most  promi- 
nent politicians  and  ablest  leaders  in  the  country,  but  the 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  91 


line  that  is  most  criticised  is  that  which  attempts  to  bring 
upon  him  a part  of  the  reflected  glory  of  Bolivar.  It  is  true 
that  the  senior  Guzman  was  his  private  secretary  at  one 
time,  and  owed  his  start  in  life  to  Bolivar’s  favor ; but  it  is 
also  true  that  the  Liberator  was  betrayed  by  him,  that  he 
was  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  revolution  which  overthrew 
the  government  of  Bolivar,  and  as  an  official  of  the  revolu- 
tionary government  signed  the  decree  expelling  his  former 
friend  and  patron  from  the  country  he  had  liberated — a 
cruel  and  unjustifiable  crime,  for  which  the  only  excuse 
was  the  jealousy  of  ambitious  rivals.  It  was  this  blow  that 
broke  Bolivar’s  heart,  and  Antonio  Leocadio  Guzman  was 
the  last  man  from  whom  he  expected  such  ingratitude. 

Dr.  Guzman  was  for  nearly  fifty  years  a conspicuous 
figure  in  Venezuelan  politics.  He  was  before  the  people 
of  that  country  longer  than  any  other  politician  in  its  his- 
tory— yes,  twice  as  long — and  there  is  scarcely  an  office  in 
the  civil  list  that  he  did  not  at  some  time  occupy  in  his 
eventful  career.  He  began  as  private  secretary  to  Bolivar, 
the  Liberator,  and  when  lie  died  was  Minister  of  Exterior 
Belaciones  under  his  son,  then  president.  The  senior  Guz- 
man held  one  or  another  of  the  cabinet  portfolios  from  the 
time  his  son  came  into  power  until  his  death,  and  his  name 
is  almost  as  closely  interwoven  into  Venezuelan  history  be- 
fore that  time  as  that  of  Guzman  Blanco  has  been  since. 

The  father  belonged  to  one  of  the  first  families  of  Cara- 
cas, of  pure  Spanish  stock  and  aristocratic  lineage.  They 
had  some  property,  but  it  was  swallowed  up  in  the  revolu- 
tion for  independence,  during  which,  in  1818,  he  became 
the  private  secretary  of  Simon  Bolivar  ; but  in  1829,  as  one 
of  the  officials  of  the  revolutionary  government,  with  Gen- 
eral Paez  and  Dr.  Penja,  he  signed  a decree  repudiating 
the  authority  of  his  patron  and  benefactor,  and  expelling 


92 


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him  from  the  country  he  had  given  freedom.  There  is  a 
good  deal  of  mist  hanging  over  the  history  of  those  times. 
The  most  reliable  accounts  of  events,  however,  may  be  ob- 
tained in  a History  of  Venezuela,  published  in  Paris  in 
1883,  by  Dr.  Maria  Rojas. 

The  expulsion  of  Bolivar  from  his  native  land  almost 
immediately  after  its  liberty  through  his  efforts  was  com- 
plete, as  well  as  the  disintegration  of  the  original  Repub- 
lic of  Colombia  in  1830,  were  largely  due  to  the  influence 
of  Guzman  the  elder  upon  the  ambition  of  General  Paez. 
This  republic,  as  will  be  remembered,  was  composed  of  three 
states,  Venezuela,  New  Granada  (or  Colombia,  as  it  is  now 
known),  and  Ecuador,  which  had  their  federal  capital  at 
Bogota,  and  five  times  in  succession  elected  Bolivar  to  the 
presidency.  The  confederation  was  unnatural,  because  of 
geographical  and  topographical  reasons.  It  was  almost  im- 
possible for  the  interior  cities  to  communicate  with  the 
capital.  Every  man  and  every  message  had  to  go  to  the 
coast,  and  then  by  a sailing-vessel,  and  it  was  often  six 
months  before  events  that  occurred  at  one  end  of  the 
country  were  known  at  the  other.  Even  now  it  requires  at 
least  thirty  days  to  send  a communication  from  Caracas  to 
Bogota,  and  twice  that  time  to  communicate  with  Quito. 
But  that  was  not  the  reason  of  the  dissolution  of  the  re- 
public, nor  was  it  found  in  the  wishes  of  the  people,  but  in 
the  jealousy  and  ambition  of  Paez,  who,  when  Bolivar  was 
banished  and  Venezuela  became  an  independent  republic, 
was  its  first  president. 

Paez  was  one  of  the  most  eminent  and  successful  leaders 
of  the  revolution  against  Spain.  To  him  as  much  as  to 
any  man,  with  the  exception  of  Simon  Bolivar,  Venezuela 
owes  her  independence.  In  his  final  victory  over  the  Span- 
ish forces  at  Carabobo,  near  Valencia,  on  the  24th  of  June, 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  93 


1821,  he  wiped  out  the  Spanish  army  on  the  northern  coast 
of  the  continent,  and  with  the  capture  of  Puerto  Cabello, 
shortly  after,  the  last  vestige  of  Spanish  authority  disap- 
peared. Paez  was  a llanero,  a cowboy,  on  the  llanos  or 
plains  of  the  Orinoco,  and  at  the  age  of  eighteen  was  super- 
intendent of  a large  cattle  estate.  After  the  declaration  of 
independence  he  raised  a regiment  of  llaneros,  who  for 
some  time  carried  on  the  guerilla  method  of  warfare,  but 
finally  acknowledged  the  leadership  of  Bolivar  and  became 
a part  of  the  regular  forces,  with  Paez  second  in  command 
to  the  liberator. 

General  Paez  is  the  only  man  who  ever  fought  a naval 
battle  on  horseback,  and  he,  with  his  cavalry,  actually  at- 
tacked and  captured  a fleet  of  ships. 

While  Bolivar  was  trying  to  cross  the  Apure  River  with 
his  army  during  the  struggle  for  independence,  he  was  pre- 
vented by  a half-dozen  or  more  Spanish  gunboats,  which 
anchored  in  the  stream  and  moved  up  and  down  as  he  did. 

“ I would  give  the  world  to  have  possession  of  that  flo- 
tilla,” exclaimed  he  to  Paez  one  day,  “ for  I can  never  cross 
the  river  as  long  as  it  is  there.  If  it  belonged  to  us  in- 
stead of  the  enemy  the  crossing  would  be  an  easy  thing.” 

“ I will  have  those  Jlccheras  [ships]  or  die  !”  exclaimed 
Paez  ; and,  calling  upon  his  llaneros,  he  exclaimed  : “ Let 
those  follow  Tio  who  dare  !” 

“ Tio  ” was  a pet  name  by  which  Paez  was  known  among 
his  desperate  followers,  but  he  never  used  it  himself  except 
in  an  emergency.  He  spurred  his  stallion  into  the  stream, 
followed  by  three  thousand  llaneros,  and  their  horses, 
which  are  taught  to  swim  as  well  as  to  gallop,  carried  them 
directly  to  the  gun-boats.  It  was  night.  The  Spanish  fleet 
was  taken  entirely  unawares.  The  llaneros  clambered  from 
their  saddles  to  the  decks  of  the  vessels,  and  then  let  their 


94 


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horses  swim  back  to  shore.  Thus,  after  cutting  off  their 
own  retreat,  it  was  a question  of  win  or  die,  so  they  fought 
desperate]}',  and  every  vessel  was  captured.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  incidents  in  modern  warfare. 

Paez  was  president  of  Venezuela  from  1831  to  1835, 
and  Guzman  the  elder  was  one  of  his  active  supporters 
and  prominent  subordinates.  Dr.  Jose  Maria  Vargas,  per- 
haps the  most  eminent  scholar  Venezuela  has  ever  pro- 
duced, being  especially  famous  as  a mathematician  and 
astronomer,  was  the  second  president,  but  held  office  only 
one  year,  and  had  a stormy  administration.  During  that 
short  time  he  resigned  twice,  abdicated  once,  and  was  then 
expelled  from  the  country.  The  remainder  of  his  term  was 
occupied  by  three  vice-presidents,  acting  under  the  dicta- 
tion of  Paez,  who  succeeded  to  the  executive  power  again 
after  the  constitutional  interval  in  1839.  It  was  during 
this,  his  second  term,  that  Paez  attempted  to  partially 
atone  for  the  crime  of  banishing  Bolivar.  In  1842  he 
brought  home  the  bones  of  the  Liberator  from  Santa  Marta, 
and  deposited  them  with  marked  honors  in  the  Caracas 
cathedral. 

The  next  president  was  Jose  Tadeo  Monagas.  During 
all  these  years  Antonio  Leocadio  Guzman  had  borne  an 
active  part  in  the  political  affairs  of  the  country,  and  had 
held  office  almost  continuously.  And  now  he  wanted  to 
be  president.  But  it  was  the  will  of  Paez,  who  was  just  as 
much  of  a “boss”  in  the  country  then  as  Guzman  Blanco 
was  twenty -eight  years  later,  that  Monagas  should  have 
the  next  term.  Dr.  Guzman  declined  to  wait,  determined 
to  test  the  strength  of  the  Llanero  Dictator,  and  organized  a 
new  party  known  as  the  “ Liberals.”  He  was  at  this  time 
editor  of  El  Venczuelano — a newspaper  which  is  as  famous 
in  that  country  and  occupied  the  same  position  as  the 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  95 


National  Intelligencer  once  did  at  Washington — and  was 
not  only  the  ablest  writer  but  the  foremost  orator  of  Ven- 
ezuela. He  made  the  canvass,  but  in  the  midst  of  it  was 
accused  of  sedition  because  of  some  editorials  in  his  paper, 
sent  to  prison,  and  sentenced  to  death  by  Paez — the  second 
great  man  whose  patronage  he  had  enjoyed,  and  whom  he 
endeavored  to  overthrow. 

Monagas  was  elected,  but  at  once  lost  the  support  of 
Paez  by  extending  a pardon  to  Dr.  Guzman,  the  opposition 
candidate,  and  by  forming  a liberal  ministry.  Dr.  Guzman 
and  his  adherents  always  claimed  that  he  had  a majority 
of  the  votes  at  this  election  even  though  he  was  in  prison, 
and  that  Monagas  was  a usurper;  but  the  actual  truth  is 
difficult  to  discover.  At  any  rate,  Paez  and  his  party,  who 
put  Monagas  in  power,  were  trying  to  throw  him  out  two 
months  afterwards,  but  were  unsuccessful.  After  a long 
and  bloody  war  Paez  was  captured,  imprisoned  for  several 
months,  and  the  death  penalty,  having  been  revoked,  was 
banished  from  the  country  in  May,  1850.  He  remained  in 
New  York  until  1859,  during  which  time  the  Monagas 
part}7  had  control  of  the  government.  The  brothers  of 
that  name  succeeded  each  other  as  presidents,  and  Antonio 
Leocadio  Guzman  was  uppermost  in  their  councils.  Mo- 
nagas gradually  drifted  away  from  the  liberal  principles 
he  originally  had  espoused,  and  became  the  head  of  what 
was  known  as  the  oligarchical  party.  The  several  factions 
in  opposition  united,  and  called  upon  Paez  to  return  from 
New  York  and  become  their  leader  in  a revolution.  But 
just  as  he  was  starting  for  Venezuela  he  slipped  upon  the 
pavement  and  broke  his  leg.  This  lost  him  a great  oppor-' 
tunity,  and  made  him  a cripple  for  life. 

General  Falcon,  the  recognized  head  of  the  party  known 
as  “ Los  Liberales,”  who  also  had  been  banished  by  Mo- 


96 


VENEZUELA 


nagas,  was  then  invited  to  take  the  lead  in  the  revolu- 
tionary movement,  and,  landing  in  Venezuela  from  the  little 
island  of  Cura§oa,  which  has  always  been  a nursery  of  con- 
spiracies, proclaimed  the  Federation.  There  had  been 
more  or  less  fighting  all  through  the  Monagas  dynasty,  but 
now  began  a genuine  struggle  that  involved  the  entire 
country,  known  as  the  Five  Years’  War.  In  1S61  Falcon 
endeavored  to  persuade  Paez  to  represent  him  at  Washing- 
ton, but  the  latter  refused  to  do  so,  and  in  1862  joined  the 
opposition.  Taking  the  field,  he  was  defeated,  again  ban- 
ished, and  died  in  New  York  in  1873,  at  the  advanced  age 
of  eighty-three  years. 

For  a time  during  these  years  Dr.  Guzman  is  lost  sight 
of,  but  he  ultimately  turned  up  as  a vigorous  and  successful 
supporter  of  Falcon.  lie  could  never  have  been  reconciled 
to  Paez,  and  the  feud  not  only  lasted  during  his  life,  but  was 
inherited  by  his  posterity.  In  1888,  soon  after  Dr.  Rojas- 
Paul  came  into  the  presidency,  he  restored  the  bones  of  the 
great  llanero  to  their  native  soil,  as  the  latter  had  restored 
the  bones  of  Bolivar.  Against  this  Guzman  Blanco  pro- 
tested, and  it  was  his  first  break  with  the  people. 

The  dust  of  Paez  was  brought  back  to  the  fatherland 
and  sacredly  enclosed  in  a marble  tomb  beside  that  of  Boli- 
var, but  so  bitter  was  Guzman  Blanco  against  the  memory 
of  the  man  who  condemned  his  father  to  death  that  he 
threatened  to  have  it  cast  out  as  soon  as  he  returned  to 
Venezuela.  lie  was  absent  at  the  time,  or  the  plans  could 
never  have  been  carried  through ; but  under  the  direction 
of  the  government  there  were  impressive  ceremonies,  and 
the  whole  city  of  Caracas  was  decorated,  except  the  resi- 
dences of  and  the  buildings  owned  by  Guzman  Blanco  and 
the  members  of  his  family.  They  were  conspicuously  bare, 
and  when  the  procession  passed  them  there  was  not  so  much 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  97 


as  a flag  in  sight.  Every  blind  was  closed  so  as  to  shut 
out  the  sights  and  the  sounds,  and  Guzman  Blanco’s  sister, 
Senora  Vallenilla,  would  not  even  permit  her  children  to 
witness  the  parade  or  any  of  the  ceremonies.  One  of  her 
little  boys  was  asked  the  reason  by  a playmate  next  day, 
and  replied  in  most  indignant  tones : 

“ Why  should  we  do  honor  to  Paez  ? Did  he  not  order 
my  grandfather  to  be  shot?  A curse  on  his  ashes!  If  I 
could  reach  them  I would  throw  them  into  the  sewer.” 

This,  from  a child  of  thirteen  years,  shows  the  sentiments 
of  the  family. 

It  was  in  the  Five  Years’  War  that  General  Guzman 
Blanco  came  to  the  front.  He  was  born  in  1830,  and  edu- 
cated in  the  best  schools  of  the  country.  Dr.  Vargas,  the 
ex-president,  who  after  his  abdication  forswore  politics 
forever  and  returned  to  his  old  chair  in  the  University,  for 
which  he  was  much  better  qualified,  was  his  tutor  when  he 
was  a youth  and  prepared  him  for  college,  it  being  the 
custom  in  those  days,  as  it  is  now,  for  the  members  of  the 
faculty  to  take  private  pupils.  Guzman  Blanco  was  intend- 
ing to  study  medicine,  but,  under  the  influence  of  Dr.  Var- 
gas, abandoned  it  for  the  law. 

Instead  of  becoming  an  apothecary  Guzman  Blanco 
gained  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Jurisprudence  at  the  Uni- 
versity, and  took  a journey  abroad  before  commencing 
practice.  Through  the  influence  of  his  father  he  was  ap- 
pointed secretary  of  legation  at  Washington,  and  resided 
in  the  latter  city  in  1856  and  1857.  In  1858,  when  the 
elder  Guzman  fell  out  with  Monagas,  the  son  lost  his  posi- 
tion and  returned  to  Venezuela,  where  he  found  that  his 
father  had  been  sent  into  exile.  Nor  was  his  presence  wel- 
come to  the  administration,  for  he  was  a vigorous  and  ac- 
tive young  man  of  twenty-eight,  with  ability  and  determi- 
7 


98 


VENEZUELA 


nation.  lie  was  forbidden  to  leave  the  city  of  Caracas  for 
a time,  and  was  then  told  to  go,  and  joined  his  father  at  St. 
Thomas.  There  he  met  General  Falcon,  also  an  exile,  but 
afterwards  the  Liberal  leader,  and  accompanied  him  to  Ven- 
ezuela in  1859,  when  the  federation  was  proclaimed. 

The  young  lawyer  proved  to  be  an  able  and  successful 
soldier,  and  showed  so  much  military  genius  that  he  was 
soon  in  command  of  a division.  In  18G3,  Falcon  entered 
Caracas  in  triumph,  and  called  an  assembly  of  eighty  citi- 
zens to  form  a government.  They  named  him  president, 
and  Guzman  Blanco  vice-president ; and  the  latter  also 
took  the  portfolio  of  finance.  He  was  then  elected  to 
the  Chamber  of  Deputies  and  made  speaker  of  that  body. 
In  1867  he  was  sent  to  Europe  to  negotiate  a settlement 
of  the  national  debt  and  to  effect  a new  loan.  During  his 
absence,  the  Olegarquia,  the  old  Monagas  faction,  was  re- 
suscitated and  reorganized  as  El  Partido  Azul,  the  Blue 
Party,  so  called  from  a badge  they  wore.  They  were 
strengthened  by  fusion  with  a section  of  the  Liberal  Party 
which  had  fallen  out  with  Falcon,  whose  followers  were 
known  as  the  Yellow  Party.  They  together  issued  a pro- 
nunciamento  in  favor  of  Monagas,  who  was  then  nearly 
ninety  years  of  age,  but  retained  his  mental  and  physical 
vigor.  President  Falcon  was  compelled  to  abandon  the 
capital,  and  went  into  temporary  eclipse.  Ilis  govern- 
ment fell  to  pieces,  and  he  soon  after  sailed  for  Europe 
in  very  poor  health  to  try  the  waters  at  Carlsbad.  On  his 
return  two  years  later  he  died  at  Martinique,  a French 
island  of  the  West  Indies. 

When  the  government  he  represented  was  dissolved, 
Guzman  Blanco  returned  from  London  to  Caracas,  and  ar- 
rived in  August,  1868.  On  the  14th  of  that  month  he 
issued  invitations  to  a grand  ball.  Ilis  purpose  is  not 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  99 


clear.  Some  of  his  enemies  maintain  that  it  was  to  secure 
favor  with  the  dominant  party  ; others,  that  it  was  to  test 
his  popularity  with  the  view  of  organizing  a revolution. 
His  friends  have  always  held  that  he  intended  to  gather 
the  best  men  of  all  factions  under  his  roof  with  the  object 
of  bringing  about  a general  reconciliation.  It  ended  in 
a riot.  Few  guests  came,  but  the  streets  outside  were 
crowded  with  people,  who  first  stoned  and  then  sacked 
the  house,  destroying  its  entire  contents.  That  the  exist- 
ing government  sympathized  with  the  rioters  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that  the  secretary  of  war  and  the  governor  of 
the  state,  who  were  both  present,  declined  to  use  their 
influence  and  authority  to  protect  the  property,  although 
repeatedly  appealed  to.  Guzman  Blanco  narrowly  escaped 
assassination  by  the  mob,  and  with  his  family  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  residence  of  Mr.  Partridge,  the  United 
States  Minister,  under  whose  protection  they  remained 
until  they  could  leave  the  country. 

Guzman  Blanco  then  went  abroad  again,  but  in  the  win- 
ter of  1870  reached  Curagoa,  where  he  organized  a revo- 
lution, and  on  the  14th  of  February  landed  upon  the  coast 
of  Venezuela  at  the  head  of  an  army  of  invasion.  The 
old  Liberal  Party  flocked  to  his  standard,  and  after  a few 
stubborn  fights  with  the  forces  of  the  government  he  found 
himself  in  possession  of  the  capital  and  was  declared  dic- 
tator. Two  years  later  the  entire  country  had  acknowl- 
edged his  authority,  and  in  1873  he  was  elected  consti- 
tutional president.  From  that  date  his  power  was  not 
disputed,  and  he  reigned  like  a czar  until  the  beginning 
of  1888,  when  the  president,  Dr.  Rojas-Paul,  and  the  Con- 
gress began  to  show  signs  of  independence  and  to  ignore 
his  orders.  As  the  constitution  then  prohibited  a president 
from  being  his  own  successor,  Guzman  Blanco  occupied 


100 


VENEZUELA 


the  office  only  alternate  terms.  In  the  interval  a substi- 
tute selected  by  himself  filled  the  executive  chair,  -while 
he  has  spent  the  most  of  his  vacations  in  Europe,  with  the 
credentials  of  a minister  plenipotentiary,  and  directed  the 
policy  of  the  government  by  mail  and  cable. 

The  chief  characteristics  of  Guzman  Blanco  are  his  in- 
telligence, his  vanity,  and  his  determination,  lie  not  only 
created  statues  in  honor  of  himself  all  over  the  country, 
filled  the  public  buildings  with  his  portraits,  christened 
states,  provinces,  cities,  theatres,  bridges,  docks,  railroads, 
reservoirs,  parks,  boulevards,  streets,  and  market-houses  with 
his  name,  imbedded  tablets  in  every  building  he  erected 
and  repaired  to  show  by  whom  the  work  was  done,  and 
assumed  a title,  “ The  Illustrious  American,”  but  he  covered 
his  breast  with  decorations — some  sought  from  the  kings 
and  emperors  of  Europe,  and  others  granted  to  himself 
under  his  own  orders  by  a Congress  he  controlled.  Nor  is 
this  all.  While  he  was  in  power  he  required  every  book 
printed  in  Venezuela  to  bear  the  announcement  that  it  was 
published  under  his  administration.  Every  sheet  of  music 
was  marked  in  the  same  way.  In  the  list  of  subscribers 
to  the  telephone  service  in  those  days  his  name  appears 
in  black  capitals,  like  that  of  the  Almighty  in  the  prayer- 
books,  while  those  of  all  others  are  in  ordinary  type. 

When  Guzman  was  young,  as  I have  said,  he  studied 
medicine  for  a few'  months.  Soon  after  he  became  presi- 
dent he  called  upon  the  University  for  a medical  diploma, 
and  got  one,  so  that  he  can  write  M.D.  in  the  procession 
of  letters  that  follow  his  name.  Every  degree  in  the  cata- 
logue except  that  of  Doctor  of  Divinity  was  granted  him. 
It  is  a curious  ambition,  but  anything  that  would  add  to 
his  glory  he  grasped  at,  even  if  it  were  but  a rosette  or  a 
medal.  He  is  an  honorary  member  of  all  the  scientific  and 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  101 


literary  societies  lie  had  influence  with,  and  at  one  time 
proposed  to  make  himself  Rector  of  the  University,  but 
was  compelled  to  forego  this  honor  because  the  law  requires 
this  officer  to  devote  his  undivided  attention  to  the  interests 
of  the  institution. 

On  the  anniversary  of  Humboldt’s  birth  the  scientific  so- 
cieties at  Caracas  decided  to  have  a celebration,  and  ap- 
pointed a committee  to  invite  the  Dictator  to  preside  over 
the  ceremonies.  He  asked  what  the  programme  was  to  be. 
They  replied  that  it  was  simply  made  up  of  a series  of 
papers  by  the  learned  men  of  the  societies,  with  music  dur- 
ing the  intervals.  Guzman  Blanco  said  he  would  preside 
if  the  authors  of  the  papers  would  submit  them  to  him  for 
revision.  The  committee  was  dumfounded,  and  retired  to 
recover  their  wits.  What  his  object  might  be  in  making 
this  extraordinary  condition  they  could  not  imagine.  He 
certainly  could  not  suspect  them  of  treasonable  designs,  of 
an  intention  to  read  revolutionary  or  seditious  documents 
under  the  pretence  of  celebrating  Humboldt’s  birthday. 
None  of  them  were  politicians,  few  of  them  cared  who 
was  president,  and  all  were  favorable  to  the  continuance  of 
Guzman  in  power.  Finally,  it  was  suggested  by  somebody 
that  the  Dictator  was  seeking  flattery,  and  believed  each 
essayist  would  be  more  likely  to  insert  a paragraph  in  his 
sketch  of  Humboldt  praising  Guzman  Blanco  if  they  knew 
the  papers  were  to  be  read  by  him  in  advance. 

This  was  accepted  as  the  genuine  motive  of  his  demand, 
and  the  societies  in  a joint  meeting  declined  to  concede  it. 
They  decided  that  it  would  not  be  a dignified  proceeding 
for  a party  of  learned  pundits  to  bow  down  before  a mili- 
tary dictator  and  submit  their  scientific  theses  to  him  for 
criticism  as  school-boys  lay  their  compositions  before  a 
pedagogue.  They  determined  to  abandon  the  celebration 


102 


VENEZUELA 


in  preference  to  so  humiliating  themselves,  and  a commit- 
tee of  three  were  appointed  to  so  inform  the  president. 
They  called  upon  him  forthwith,  and,  in  the  most  gentle 
and  diplomatic  phrases  they  could  frame,  notified  him  that 
his  conditions  could  not  be  complied  with,  and  that  the 
proposed  ceremonies  would  not  be  held  if  he  insisted  upon 
them.  Guzman  asked  their  reasons,  and  when  he  heard 
them  he  inquired  if  the  decision  was  unanimous.  They 
said  it  was,  whereupon,  with  a sarcastic  smile,  he  opened  a 
drawer  in  his  desk  and  produced  four  out  of  the  seven 
essays  that  were  to  be  read,  which  had  been  secretly  sub- 
mitted for  his  approval  by  the  authors  while  these  proceed- 
ings were  going  on,  and  each  one  of  them  contained  a ful- 
some tribute  to  General  Antonio  Guzman  Blanco,  LL.D., 
Ph.D.,  M.D.,  C.E.,  etc.,  “The  Illustrious  American,”  “The 
Regenerator  of  Venezuela,”  etc.,  for  his  zeal  and  generosity 
in  the  encouragement  of  science,  art,  and  so  on. 

But  he  was  not  all  vanity.  He  wanted  to  know.  He 
grasped  at  knowledge  just  as  he  grasped  at  money  and  hon- 
ors. He  was  a student  as  well  as  a soldier,  and  few  rulers  of 
nations  have  ever  taken  so  much  personal  interest  in  the  af- 
fairs of  state  as  he  showed  when  he  was  president.  The 
people  of  Venezuela  lack  public  enterprise.  If  it  had  not 
been  for  the  energy  of  Guzman  Blanco  and  his  pride  the 
city  of  Caracas  and  the  country  at  large  would  never  have 
reached  their  present  state  of  progress,  and  a man  who  has 
done  so  much  for  his  people  can  be  excused  for  his  vanity. 

The  manner  in  which  he  learned  the  English  language  is 
a good  illustration  of  his  untiring  industry  and  determina- 
tion. He  was  able  to  speak  a little  English  when  he  was 
secretary  of  legation  at  Washington,  and  learned  a little 
more  during  his  visits  to  London,  although  he  always  pre- 
ferred to  use  French,  which  he  speaks  very  well,  in  his  of- 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  103 


ficial  interviews.  But  while  lie  was  president  lie  made  up 
his  mind  to  master  English  thoroughly,  and  one  evening 
summoned  Dr.  Ernst,  of  the  university  faculty,  to  the  pal- 
ace. It  was  ten  o’clock  before  he  was  at  leisure,  and  about 
that  hour  he  came  bustling  into  his  library,  and  said  : 

“ Doctor,  I want  you  to  teach  me  English.” 

“Very  well,”  was  the  reply;  “when  shall  we  begin?” 

“ Now.” 

“ But  I brought  no  text-books  with  me,”  said  the  doctor. 
“ I will  get  a primer  to-morrow,  and  then  we  can  take  it  up. 
The  best  way  is  to  begin  at  the  beginning  like  a child.” 
The  general  opened  a drawer  of  his  desk,  and  took  out 
a well-thumbed  primer  that  belonged  to  his  little  girl. 

“ I have  been  through  this  by  myself,”  he  said,  “ and  un- 
derstand it  thoroughly,  as  I will  demonstrate  to  you  if  you 
will  be  good  enough  to  question  me,”  and  the  professor, 
taking  the  book,  put  the  Dictator  through  such  an  exami- 
nation as  he  would  give  a child. 

“ Very  good,”  exclaimed  the  doctor  an  hour  later. 
“To-morrow  I will  get  the  next  higher  text-book,  and  we 
will  have  another  lesson.” 

“ But  if  you  are  not  weary  I prefer  to  go  on  to-night,” 
was  the  reply.  “ I have  some  English  books  on  the  shelves 
here,”  and  going  to  his  library  he  took  down  a Life  of  John 
C.  Calhoun.  Opening  it  the  two  men,  sitting  side  by  side, 
commenced  with  the  first  line,  Dr.  Ernst  pronouncing  and 
explaining  the  meaning  of  each  word,  with  its  derivation 
and  grammatical  relation  to  the  rest  of  the  sentence,  and 
the  Dictator  repeating  everything  after  him  until  every 
point  was  impressed  upon  his  memory.  x\nd  they  kept  at 
it  until  two  o’clock  in  the  morning,  when  Guzman  Blanco 
yawned  and  looked  at  his  watch. 

“ I was  up  at  five  o’clock  this  morning,”  he  said,  “ and 


104 


VENEZUELA 


have  been  working  hard  all  day.  I think  we  better  end 
the  lesson  here.” 

“ When  shall  I come  again  ?”  asked  the  doctor. 

“ At  ten  o’clock  to-morrow  night,”  was  the  reply. 

And  for  several  months  thereafter  the  two  men,  both  of 
them  mature  and  famous,  sat  down  in  the  library  at  ten 
o’clock  every  night  of  the  week  and  read  the  Life  of  John 
C.  Calhoun,  keeping  up  the  lessons  often  as  late  as  two  or 
three  o’clock  in  the  morning.  When  the  bulky  volume  was 
finished  the  general  could  not  only  read  but  speak  Eng- 
lish very  well.  To  vary  the  monotony  of  the  instruction 
Guzman  would  write  exercises  upon  a little  slate  belonging 
to  one  of  his  children,  which  he  would  fetch  from  the 
nursery,  and  sometimes,  when  Dr.  Ernst  would  come  to  the 
lesson,  he  would  find  scraps  of  paper  which  his  distin- 
guished pupil  had  been  covering  with  exercises  in  his  lei- 
sure moments  during  the  day. 

Guzman  Blanco’s  filial,  paternal,  and  fraternal  affection 
was  one  of  his  chief  characteristics.  No  man  ever  showed 
greater  reverence  to  the  memory  of  his  father,  nor  greater 
devotion  to  his  children.  He  has  seven  ; three  of  them 
boys.  One  is  a cripple,  and  his  father  is  very  fond  of  him. 
One  reason  for  his  removal  to  Paris  was  to  secure  medical 
treatment  for  the  boy.  The  eldest  daughter  is  the  Duchess 
de  Morny,  who  was  married  at  Paris  in  1888. 

Mrs.  Guzman  Blanco  was  celebrated  for  her  beauty,  and 
was  considered  the  handsomest  woman  in  Venezuela.  Her 
portrait  has  been  painted  a hundred  times,  almost  as  often 
as  that  of  her  distinguished  husband;  and  sculptors  have 
reproduced  in  marble  her  bust  and  her  hands,  which  are 
models  of  shapeliness ; and  she  is  as  lovely  in  character  as 
in  person.  The  enemies  of  Guzman  could  find  nothing  to 
criticise  in  his  wife  except  her  devotion  to  her  husband, 


GUZMAN  BLANCO  AND  OTHER  RULERS  OF  VENEZUELA  105 


and  she  was  greatly  beloved  at  Caracas  by  the  poor  as  well 
as  the  rich.  Her  charity  was  bountiful,  her  graciousness 
genuine,  her  sympathy  sincere.  She  was  dignified,  and 
carried  herself  in  a manner  becoming  her  position  without 
being  ostentatious  or  exclusive.  Those  who  know  her  best 
love  her  the  most.  She  had  several  intimate  friends  among 
the  ladies  of  the  American  colony  at  Caracas,  and  appeared 
to  seek  their  society  in  preference  to  that  of  the  natives. 

When  the  family  of  the  Dictator  were  at  home  there  was 
usually  a good  deal  going  on  in  a social  way.  At  their 
city  house,  at  their  country  residence  in  the  pretty  village 
of  Antimino,  at  their  cofEee  plantation  near  Caracas,  and 
at  Macuto,  the  seaside  resort,  where  they  had  a cottage, 
Mrs.  Guzman  Blanco  and  the  young  ladies  were  always 
surrounded  with  a gay  party  of  friends;  and  their  frequent 
formal  entertainments  were  always  upon  a grand  scale. 
The  general’s  vanity  displayed  itself  in  the  elegance  and 
novelty  of  his  hospitality.  He  made  his  money  easily, 
had  plenty  of  it,  liked  to  pour  it  out  for  the  gratification 
of  his  friends,  and  lived  like  a king.  When  he  was  to 
give  a dinner-party  the  country  was  scoured  for  luxuries, 
and  he  had  his  favorite  fish,  the  red-snapper,  brought  up 
from  La  Guayra  by  a special  train  so  that  it  might  be 
perfectly  fresh.  The  resources  of  Caracas  are  somewhat 
limited  in  this  particular.  Few  novelties  can  be  procured, 
but  like  the  old  Roman  emperors  Guzman  Blanco  had 
dishes  invented  for  the  entertainment  of  his  friends. 

And  the  stories  they  tell  of  him  are  very  much  like 
those  one  hears  of  the  ancient  czars  of  Russia,  whom  lie  in 
many  respects  resembles — in  his  barbaric  taste  for  display, 
in  his  ungovernable  temper,  and  in  the  absolute  despotism 
with  which  he  ruled.  One  night  when  Guzman  went  to 
the  opera — and  he  seldom  attended,  although  he  usually 


106 


VENEZUELA 


paid  a subsidy  of  $40,000  a year  to  sustain  Italian  opera 
in  Caracas — the  prima-donna  was  in  a pout  and  refused  to 
sing.  She  had  had  a quarrel  with  the  impresario,  and 
Guzman  was  kept  waiting  in  his  box  for  half  an  hour  after 
the  time  for  the  performance  to  begin.  Then,  losing  pa- 
tience, he  sent  an  aide-de-camp  to  the  stage  door  to  in- 
quire into  the  cause  of  the  delay.  When  the  report  was 
received  he  sent  back  word  that  unless  the  dispute  was 
settled  and  the  opera  commenced  in  ten  minutes  he  should 
have  the  whole  party  arrested.  So  he  did.  The  manager 
and  all  the  singers  involved  in  the  controversy  were  marched 
off  to  the  calaboza  and  kept  there  until  they  were  penitent. 

Around  the  pedestal  of  his  statue  on  El  Calvario  was  a 
fence  made  of  muskets  captured  by  him  in  the  war  that 
led  to  his  dictatorship,  and  on  the  several  holidays  cele- 
brated in  his  honor  a candle  was  placed  in  the  muzzle  of 
each,  which  made  a brilliant  illumination.  There  were 
wires  stretched  between  the  fence  and  the  base  of  the 
statue,  which  on  these  occasions  were  loaded  with  lamps, 
and  the  bronze  figure  of  “ The  Illustrious  American  ” 
rose  like  a Phoenix  out  of  a sea  of  fire.  There  were  four 
of  those  holidays.  The  20th  of  February  is  his  birthday  ; 
the  2 T th  of  April  is  the  anniversary  of  his  capture  of 
Caracas — the  beginning  of  his  reign — and  the  13th  of 
June  is  the  day  of  St.  Anthony,  his  patron  saint.  All 
those  were  for  several  years  celebrated  con  viucho  gusto  by 
the  people  throughout  the  country,  by  a suspension  of 
business,  processions,  fireworks,  eulogies,  the  decoration  of 
his  statues,  etc.,  and  one  other  day  in  October  also,  but  its 
exact  significance  I could  not  ascertain.  The  first  omis- 
sion of  these  ceremonies  was  on  the  27th  of  April,  1889, 
when  the  people  would  not  permit  the  government  to 
carry  out  the  usual  programme. 


CHAPTER  IX 


THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 

Every  one  who  watched  the  course  of  events  in  Vene- 
zuela knew  that  the  power  of  Guzman  was  waning,  and, 
probably  realizing  it  himself,  he  left  the  country  at  the  end 
of  his  last  presidential  term,  bearing  a commission  as  envoy 
extraordinary  to  all  the  courts  of  Europe.  He  has  since 
resided  in  Paris,  where  he  purchased  one  of  the  finest 
places  on  the  Champs  Elysees,  and  married  his  daughter  to 
the  Due  de  Moray.  Some  people  think  it  was  the  fear  of 
assassination  that  took  the  general  away,  for  the  country 
was  full  of  those  who  had  suffered  from  his  tyranny,  and 
many  of  them  would  not  have  hesitated  to  treat  him  to  a 
bullet  or  a knife.  But  the  best  informed  say  that  his  de- 
parture was  actuated  by  several  motives : first,  a desire  for 
a change  of  climate  and  a taste  for  the  gayeties  of  the 
French  capital  on  his  own  account,  as  well  as  the  gratifica- 
tion of  his  family  ; second,  an  ambition  to  create  a display 
in  Paris,  to  appear  as  a star  in  a new  firmament,  and  to 
mingle  with  the  grandees  of  Europe,  none  of  whom  can 
surpass  him  in  wealth,  appearance,  or  deportment;  third,  a 
desire  to  make  money  by  the  sale  of  concessions,  for  which 
he  had  carte  blanche  from  the  government  of  Venezuela  ; 
fourth,  to  settle  some  serious  diplomatic  controversies; 
and,  finally,  to  withdraw  for  a time  from  the  scene  of  his 
achievements,  with  the  expectation  of  regaining  his  popu- 


108 


VENEZUELA 


larity  and  power  upon  his  return.  Before  going  Guzman 
secured  the  establishment  of  a line  of  cable  between  Vene- 
zuela and  France  in  order  that  he  might  be  constantly  and 
instantly  apprised  of  events  at  home,  and  give  directions 
concerning  the  conduct  of  the  government ; and  it  may  be 
said  that  he  found  the  wire  very  useful. 

The  standard  of  political  and  personal  morality,  as  all 
who  have  studied  Spanish-American  history  know,  is  not 
so  high  in  the  tropics  as  in  the  temperate  zones.  The  cause 
lies  in  the  false  systems  of  social  as  well  as  political  edu- 
cation. Authority  has  been  attained  by  favoritism  and 
force,  and  in  a terrible  series  of  political  convulsions  the 
strongest  and  not  always  the  fittest  have  survived.  In  the 
republic,  so  called,  of  Venezuela,  there  has  seldom  been  an 
honest  election  of  a ruler,  and  nearly  every  one  of  the  long 
list  of  presidents,  dictators,  and  military  chieftains  who 
have  governed  the  country  has  obtained  his  authority  either 
by  force  of  arms  or  by  conspiracy.  That  General  Guzman 
Blanco,  during  the  nineteen  years  he  was  in  power,  showed 
himself  the  ablest  or  at  least  the  most  successful  ruler 
Venezuela  has  ever  known  will  not  be  disputed.  And  if 
his  patriotism  was  not  so  pure  aud  unselfish  as  that  of 
Miranda,  if  his  statesmanship  was  not  so  broad  as  that  of 
Bolivar,  if  his  scholarship  was  not  so  profound  as  that  of 
Vargas,  nor  his  military  genius  so  notable  as  that  of  Paez, 
it  will  not  be  questioned  that  under  his  government,  auto- 
cratic and  corrupt  as  it  was,  A'enezuela  made  greater  prog- 
ress, and  took  a higher  stand  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth,  than  under  any  of  his  predecessors. 

In  any  age  and  in  any  nation  Guzman  Blanco  would  have 
been  an  eminent  man;  and  having  been  placed  by  Providence 
in  the  midst  of  a restless,  passionate,  and  rebellious  people, 
he  ruled  and  led  them  in  a manner  that  will  make  his  dy- 


THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


109 


nasty — as  the  successive  administrations  from  1871  to  1889 
may  be  termed — the  most  prosperous  as  well  as  the  most 
progressive  the  nation  has  ever  known.  When  the  history 
of  Venezuela  comes  to  be  written  by  an  impartial  pen,  and 
the  errors  of  the  autocrat,  like  the  vices  of  Bolivar,  have 
been  obscured  by  time,  those  years  will  furnish  an  epoch 
notable  for  material  advancement  and  development.  As  a 
distinguished  foreigner  who  has  resided  in  Caracas  for  a 
generation  remarked  : 

“ When  there  were  $10,000,000  in  the  treasury,  Guzman 
expended  eight  for  the  benefit  of  the  people  and  stole  two; 
whereas  most  of  the  presidents  would  have  stolen  eight  and 
left  two.” 

At  the  westerly  limits  of  Caracas  there  rises  a noble  hill, 
four  hundred  feet  or  more  in  height,  and  overlooking  the 
entire  valley  between  the  two  ranges  of  mountains.  Upon 
its  summit,  facing  the  capital,  there  once  stood  a heroic 
statue  of  General  Guzman  Blanco,  which  was  afterwards 
torn  down  by  an  angry  mob.  It  was  a massive  figure  of 
bronze  in  citizen  dress,  with  a long  cloak  falling  from  its 
shoulders.  In  his  hand  he  held  the  constitution  of  the 
country,  a half-open  scroll,  and  his  eyes  rested  upon  the 
city  which  was  so  much  improved  and  beautified  by  his 
enterprise.  The  statue  reminded  one  of  the  splendid  fig- 
ure of  Germania,  “ The  Watch  on  the  Rhine,”  erected  upon 
the  mountain  near  Bingen  to  commemorate  the  conclusion 
of  the  Franco-Prussian  war.  It  was  one  of  the  most  im- 
pressive in  all  the  world,  standing  as  it  did  in  silhouette 
against  the  sky,  visible  from  all  points  in  the  Guaire  valley 
as  well  as  from  the  monstrous  peaks  that  enclose  it. 

AYlien  Guzman  was  at  the  summit  of  his  popularity  and 
power,  when  he  was  an  idol  as  well  as  a despot,  that  hill 
was  used  as  a cemetery  and  called  “El  Calvario”  (Calvary). 


110 


VENEZUELA 


Guzman  removed  tlie  bodies  to  a distant  slope,  and  at  ex- 
travagant expense  laid  out  pleasure-grounds  where  the  rest- 
ing-place of  the  dead  had  been.  A broad,  winding  road, 
shaded  by  noble  trees  and  perfumed  by  the  exotics  of  the 
country,  was  conducted  about  the  breast  of  the  hill  leading 
from  the  city  to  the  summit,  and  was  called  “El  Baseo  de 
Guzman  Blanco.”  It  serves  for  Caracas’s  principal  “ lung,” 
as  some  physician  has  designated  the  breathing-places  of  a 
city — a popular  and  much  frequented  resort  for  the  com- 
mon people  as  well  as  for  the  aristocracy.  On  holiday 
nights  the  statue  was  illuminated  by  little  oil-lamps  which 
were  strung  on  wires  about  the  pedestal,  and  was  then  seen 
in  its  greatest  splendor.  “The  Illustrious  American”  ap- 
peared to  the  peons  of  the  plantations  and  the  charcoal 
burners  in  the  mountains  to  be  arising  out  of  a cauldron  of 
fire,  like  one  of  the  ancient  martyrs. 

Guzman  Blanco  was  not  modest.  That  is  the  least  of  his 
sins,  but  although  he  designed  and  erected  this  splendid 
testimonial  to  his  own  greatness,  he  concluded  that  it  would 
look  better  in  the  eyes  of  posterity  if  he  gave  some  one 
else  the  credit  for  the  artistic  design  and  the  noble  idea, 
so  the  inscription  read  : 


To 

The  Illustrious  American, 

The  Pacificator  and  Regenerator 
of  the 

United  States  of  Venezuela, 

General  Guzman  Blanco, 

The  Gratitude  of  Caracas. 

1874. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  pedestal  was  another  legend, 
reading: 


THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


111 


Guzman  Blanco  dissipated  anarchy, 
and  established  the  liberty,  the  peace, 
and  the  prosperity  of  the  Republic 
at  home  as  well  as  its  dignity 
abroad. 

All  of  wliicli  is  true  ; and  while  this  bit  of  vanity  caused 
considerable  amusement  to  those  who  know  how  the  mon- 
ument was  erected,  he  whose  achievements  it  was  intended 
to  commemorate  was  entitled  to  the  honor. 

Another  statue  which  Guzman  erected  in  his  own  honor, 
in  the  plaza  between  the  University  and  the  Capitol,  was 
twice  pulled  down,  and  the  leader  in  the  first  indignity  was 
the  Dictator’s  own  nephew,  the  general  in  command  of  his 
aimy,  and  the  man  he  is  said  to  have  chosen  as  his  succes- 
sor in  power.  The  circumstances  were  quite  remarkable, 
and  involve  a romance  in  which  an  American  girl  figured 
as  the  heroine. 

Mr.  Russell,  of  Boston,  was  United  States  Minister  at 
Caracas  during  the  Hayes  administration.  Being  directed 
by  Secretary  Evarts  to  press  the  payment  of  the  claims  of 
certain  American  citizens  for  losses  incurred  during  the 
war  by  which  Guzman  came  into  power,  he  replied  that 
there  were  only  two  methods  by  which  the  money  could 
be  collected.  One  method,  he  said,  was  to  send  a man-of- 
war  to  bombard  La  Guayra,  and  the  other  was  to  offer  Guz- 
man a share  of  the  money.  This  indiscreet  despatch,  by  a 
blunder  of  a clerk  at  the  Department  of  State  in  Washing- 
ton, was  published,  and  when  an  official  translation  was 
sent  to  “ The  Illustrious  American  ” he  very  promptly  sent 
Mr.  Russell  his  passports,  and  ordered  him  to  leave  Vene- 
zuela instanter.  There  was  a New  York  steamer  in  the 
harbor  at  La  Guayra,  and  Mr.  Russell  was  escorted  on  board 
by  a file  of  soldiers. 


112 


VENEZUELA 


The  minister  had  a pretty  daughter  to  whom  General 
Ibarra,  the  nephew  and  favorite  of  Guzman,  was  engaged, 
and  when  the  young  man  heard  of  the  affair  lie  went  to 
headquarters  to  protest  against  the  indignities  offered  his 
prospective  father-in-law.  The  president  gave  the  young 
man  his  choice  between  the  girl  and  the  official  honors 
and  prospects  lie  enjoyed.  Breaking  his  sword  over  his 
knee,  Ibarra  threw  the  pieces  at  Guzman’s  head  and  left 
the  palace.  That  afternoon  a decree  was  issued  relieving 
General  Ibarra  from  the  command  of  the  army  and  can- 
celling his  commission.  During  the  night  Ibarra  gathered 
a few  of  his  cronies,  sawed  through  the  bronze  legs  of 
the  horse  on  which  the  effigy  of  his  uncle  sat,  and,  hitch- 
ing a rope  around  the  body,  hauled  it  over.  Then  he 
saddled  a mule,  rode  down  the  mountain  path  to  La  Guayra, 
joined  his  sweetheart  on  the  steamer,  and  sailed  for  New 
York  before  his  act  had  been  discovered.  He  married  the 
girl,  but  was  too  wise  to  return  to  Venezuela  until  his  dis- 
tinguished uncle  had  left  that  country.  This  was  one  of 
the  greatest  humiliations  Guzman  Blanco  ever  suffered,  and 
no  one  has  ever  dared  to  mention  the  name  of  Ibarra  in  his 
presence  since. 

The  statue  was  an  imposing  one,  of  heroic  size  and  ad- 
mirably moulded,  although  there  was  one  singular  defect: 
the  mouth  of  the  horse  was  wide  open,  but  had  no  teeth; 
and  I have  heard  an  anecdote  of  Guzman  regarding  that 
defect  which  illustrates  his  character  and  the  condition  of 
affairs  that  existed  at  Caracas  during  the  reign  of  the  despot. 

One  morning  as  a celebrated  scientist,  who  had  been  the 
director  of  the  university  for  many  years,  was  passing  into 
the  building,  he  was  accosted  by  a party  of  friends  that 
stood  by  inspecting  the  statue,  then  only  recently  erected, 
and  asked  what  he  thought  of  it. 


THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GOZMAN  BLANCO 


113 


“ I don’t  think  anything  of  it,”  responded  the  blunt 
and  candid  professor.  “ The  horse  has  no  teeth  ” — and  he 
passed  on  to  his  class-room.  That  afternoon  an  aide-de- 
camp  of  the  president  summoned  the  professor  to  the 
palace.  As  he  entered  the  presence  of  Guzman,  the  latter 
said : 

“ Professor,  1 have  been  informed  that  you  have  been 
criticising  my  statue.” 

“ I have  not,”  was  the  reply.  “ It  is  not  my  business 
to  criticise  your  statue  or  any  of  your  acts.” 

“ But  I am  told  that  this  morning,  in  the  presence  of 
several  citizens,  you  ridiculed  it.” 

“ That  is  not  true.  I simply  called  attention  to  the  fact 
that  the  horse  had  no  teeth,  which  is  a serious  defect.” 

“ Hereafter,  sir,”  said  the  Dictator,  sternly,  “ you  will 
take  care  not  to  make  any  such  remarks,  or  you  will  find 
yourself  in  trouble.” 

“ General  Guzman,”  replied  the  unabashed  professor,  “ you 
have  done  me  the  honor  to  elevate  me  to  the  directorship 
of  the  University,  and  to  intrust  to  me  the  chair  of  natural 
history.  You  have  placed  in  front  of  the  University  a 
model  of  the  noblest  of  all  animals,  to  be  admired  and 
studied,  not  only  by  the  citizens  of  this  place,  but  by  the 
students  under  my  charge.  It  is  my  duty,  sir,  to  point  out 
to  those  students  the  imperfections  in  that  model,  and  to 
say  to  them  that  a soldier  of  your  ability  and  intelligence 
should  not  have  been  imposed  upon  by  a pretended  artist 
who  has  assumed  that  you  would  ride  a toothless  horse.” 
General  Guzman  saw  the  point,  and  attempted  to  evade 
it  by  asking  what  the  doctor  thought  of  the  rest  of  the  statue. 

“ I have  been  able  to  see  nothing  but  the  mouth,”  was 
the  diplomatic  reply  ; “ and  if  you  have  no  further  business 
with  me,  I desire  to  return  to  my  classes.” 

8 


114 


VENEZUELA 


But  before  he  left  the  room,  however,  he  was  cautioned 
to  beware  of  pretended  friends,  for  there  was  nothing  said 
or  done  in  Caracas  that  was  not  reported  at  the  president’s 
headquarters. 

In  this  statue  Guzman  was  represented  in  the  full  uni- 
form of  a general,  and  in  the  act  of  raising  his  hat  to  ac- 
knowledge the  plaudits  of  his  admiring  subjects.  The  in- 
scription was  even  more  pretentious  than  that  of  the  El 
Calvario  monument,  and  read  : 

To  the  Illustrious  American, 

General  Guzman  Blanco, 

President  of  the  Republic 
A nation’s  gratitude 

Upon  the  reverse  of  the  pedestal  were  these  words  : 

The  peace  and  liberty, 

The  administrative  order, 

The  intellectual  and  material  progress 
which  is  due  to 
General  Guzman  Blanco, 

As  well  as  the  dignity  and  the  honor 
of  the  Republic, 
which  were  restored  by  him, 
are  the  fittest  pedestal 
for  his  statue. 

Guzman  Blanco  was  entitled  to  these  memorials;  even  if 
he  did  erect  them  in  his  own  honor  they  should  have  been 
allowed  to  stand.  As  the  inscription  recited,  the  restora- 
tion of  Venezuela  from  a condition  of  political  anarchy 
and  commercial  stagnation  to  peace  and  prosperity  was  due 
to  his  energetic  rule;  and  although  his  methods  were  those 
of  a tyrant,  the  results  have  been  to  the  general  welfare  of 
the  people.  During  the  nineteen  years  he  was  in  power, 


THE  CHARACTERISTICS  OE  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


115 


Caracas  became  a city  of  importance,  and  the  products  of 
Venezuela  became  known  in  the  markets  of  the  world. 
Railroads  ivere  introduced,  and  the  farthermost  portions  of 
the  republic  were  reached  by  telegraph  lines ; there  were 
steamboats  on  the  Orinoco,  and  the  towns  along  the  coast 
had  regular  and  frequent  facilities  for  transportation  and 
communication.  Modern  methods  were  introduced  in  the 
transaction  of  business,  labor-saving  machinery  increased 
the  product  of  the  plantations  and  the  profits  of  its  sale. 
Not  only  the  capital,  but  the  other  cities  of  the  country 
were  improved  and  beautified,  and  Guzman  Blanco  did  it 
all  iu  the  name  of  the  government,  or  the  government  did 
it  in  the  name  of  Guzman  Blanco,  which  was  practically  the 
same  thing. 

It  is  said  that  when  General  Guzman  Blanco  called  upon 
Baron  de  Rothschild  in  Paris  to  negotiate  a loan  for  Ven- 
ezuela he  remarked,  by  way  of  compliment,  that  he  was 
much  honored  by  having  an  interview  with  the  head  of  the 
richest  banking-house  in  the  world. 

“And  I am  honored,”  was  the  reply  of  the  baron,  “by 
receiving  a call  from  the  richest  man  on  earth.” 

“ If  you  have  me  in  mind,”  retorted  Guzman,  “ you  are 
mistaken.  I am  not  so  rich  as  represented  ; but  had  I all 
that  is  credited  to  me  I would  still  be  poor,  very  poor,  in 
comparison  with  yourself  and  thousands  of  men  in  this  and 
other  countries.” 

“But  I insist  upon  the  truth  of  my  assertion  that  you 
are  the  richest  man  in  the  world,  for  who  else,”  exclaimed 
Rothschild,  “ has  estates  comprising  six  hundred  thousand 
square  miles  of  territory  ? Who  else  has  an  income  of 
thirty-seven  million  dollars  ? Who  else  has  two  million 
and  a half  of  slaves  ?” 

Guzman  said  nothing  in  reply,  but  smiled  significantly, 


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as  much  as  to  say,  “1  see  that  you  understand  the  politics 
of  Venezuela.” 

A gentleman  who,  not  many  years  ago,  obtained  a valua- 
ble concession  from  General  Guzman  Blanco  once  related 
his  experience  to  me.  He  said  that  he  was  kept  waiting 
around  the  Casa  Amarilla  for  three  or  four  weeks,  and  did 
not  seem  to  get  on  at  all.  Finally  he  told  the  Dictator  that 
it  would  be  impossible  for  him  to  remain  in  the  country 
much  longer,  and  that  he  wanted  a final  answer  whether  he 
could  have  the  concession  or  not ; that  if  it  were  not  to  be 
granted  him  he  did  not  want  to  waste  his  time,  and  if  he 
were  to  receive  it  he  wanted  to  get  at  work  and  save  the 
interest  upon  his  money,  which  was  lying  idle.  Guzman 
turned  to  him  with  some  impatience,  and  said: 

“Come  to  my  country-house  at  Antimino  at  six  o’clock 
to-morrow  morning,  and  we  will  close  this  matter  up.” 

The  people  of  Venezuela  are  in  the  habit  of  getting  up 
early  in  the  morning,  and  General  Guzman  Blanco  never  had 
the  reputation  of  a laggard,  but  six  o’clock  and  at  a farm 
seven  miles  in  the  country  was  rather  an  unusual  appoint- 
ment. But  the  gentleman  said,  “I’ll  be  on  hand,  your  ex- 
cellency,” and  retired. 

The  next  morning  he  was  called  at  four,  saddled  a horse, 
and  galloped  out  to  Antimino,  where  he  got  a light  break- 
fast, and  was  at  the  gate  in  front  of  the  Dictator’s  residence 
before  the  clock  in  the  parish  church  had  struck  six. 

To  his  surprise  he  found  twenty  or  thirty  people  stand- 
ing or  sitting  around  the  grounds  waiting  to  be  received, 
and  some  of  them  men  of  importance,  while  the  president 
sat  upon  the  porch  sipping  his  coffee  and  reading  the  morn- 
ing paper.  It  was  considered  a dreadful  breach  of  etiquette 
to  interrupt  the  great  man  when  he  was  reading,  and  there 
was  not  a person  in  the  entire  company  who  dared  do  it. 


TIIE  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


117 


They  simply  stood  or  sat  by  where  he  could  see  them,  and 
awaited  his  summons.  But  the  Yankee  marched  boldly 
upon  the  porch,  and  said  : 

“ Good-morning,  general.” 

Guzman  Blanco  looked  up  in  surprise  from  his  paper, 
but  the  Yankee,  knowing  his  temper  and  peculiarities,  did 
not  wait  for  him  to  speak. 

“ In  my  country,  general,”  he  said,  “ it  is  not  the  custom 
for  great  men  to  get  up  so  early  in  the  morning.  They 
never  commence  business  until  the  sun  is  a good  deal 
higher  than  it  is  now.  But  it  is  also  a point  of  honor  to 
meet  an  engagement  promptly,  and  although  you  invited 
me  so  early,  you  see  I am  here  on  time.” 

The  stern  features  of  the  Dictator  relaxed  into  a smile. 

“ Have  you  had  your  coffee  ?”  he  asked. 

“ Yes,  sir,  at  the  hotel  a few  minutes  ago.” 

“But  it  must  have  been  miserable  stuff,  and  you  ought 
to  taste  mine.  I use  none  but  what  I grow  on  my  own 
plantation,  and  always  carry  it  with  me  no  matter  to  what 
part  of  the  world  I go.”  And  ringing  a bell  at  his  side,  he 
ordered  a cup  of  coffee  and  a roll  for  his  caller. 

But  the  latter  did  not  propose  to  waste  his  time,  and  im- 
mediately said,  “ You  did  me  the  honor  to  say  yesterday 
that  you  would  close  up  the  business  matter  upon  which  I 
came  from  the  States  at  our  interview  this  morning,  and  I 
have  come  prepared  to  do  so.” 

“ I wish  that  my  people  were  as  prompt  as  you.  Our 
great  fault  as  a nation  is  procrastination.  If  we  were  as 
prompt  and  as  determined  as  your  countrymen,  Venezuela 
would  be  a richer  and  more  productive  nation.”  And  with 
that  they  went  into  the  business.  For  two  hours  the  de- 
tails of  the  concession  were  discussed,  and,  being  agreed 
upon,  the  two  gentlemen  went  into  the  house,  and,  finding 


118 


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the  president’s  stenographer  in  his  library,  dictated  to  him 
the  terms  of  the  contract,  which  was  very  short.  Then 
Guzman  Blanco,  turning  to  his  guest,  said : 

“ My  secretary  will  have  this  written  out  to-morrow,  and 
if  you  will  then  call  at  my  office  in  town  we  will  sign  it. 
There  are  a number  of  people  waiting  to  see  me.” 

“ I would  prefer  to  wait  myself,  and  have  the  document 
signed  here  to-day,”  was  the  Yankee’s  reply.  “Yrou  said 
a little  while  ago  that  the  great  fault  of  your  people  was 
procrastination,  and  I propose  that  we  avoid  it  this  morn- 
ing.” 

The  secretary  looked  up  in  amazement.  He  had  seen 
men  sent  to  the  calabozo  for  less  than  that,  and  evidently 
expected  that  the  Dictator  would  call  a policeman  to  take 
the  Yankee  in  charge.  Gusman  was  a little  surprised  at 
first,  but  seeing  that  his  guest  was  not  abashed,  smiled,  and 
said : 

“That  is  a neat  way  of  applying  my  philosophy  to  your 
own  interest.  We  will  wait  until  the  document  is  written 
out,  and  sign  it  here.” 

Guzman  handed  a cigar  to  the  Yankee,  lit  one  himself, 
and  then  sat  down  for  a chat  while  the  secretary  was  writ- 
ing. In  a moment  or  two  the  director-general  of  police 
tapped  at  the  door  and  said  that  he  wanted  to  see  the  pres- 
ident concerning  a matter  that  required  his  immediate  at- 
tention. 

“You  will  have  to  wait  until  I am  through  with  this 
Yankee,”  said  the  president ; “ he  is  teaching  me  the  way 
they  do  business  in  the  United  States,” 


CHAPTER  X 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 

The  President  of  Venezuela  is  elected  in  a curious  way. 
There  are  two  branches  of  Congress.  The  senators  are 
chosen  by  the  legislatures,  as  ours  are,  only  they  send  three 
from  each  of  the  states  instead  of  two — a plan  that  would 
gratify  a number  of  ambitious  statesmen  if  it  were  adopted 
in  this  country.  The  members  of  the  House  of  Represent- 
atives are  elected  by  the  people,  and  the  apportionment  is 
one  to  every  35,000  population. 

At  the  opening  of  Congress  every  four  years — it  was  re- 
cently every  two — the  twenty-four  senators  and  the  fifty- 
two  representatives  meet  in  joint  assembly  and  vote  by  bal- 
lot for  sixteen  of  their  own  number  to  act  as  a federal 
council.  This  council  may  issue  decrees  during  the  re- 
cess of  Congress,  which  have  the  force  of  law  until  that 
body  meets  again  ; it  may  suspend  the  operation  of  laws 
that  have  been  enacted  until  the  Congress  can  have  an  op- 
portunity to  vote  upon  the  question  of  their  repeal  ; it  may 
suspend  or  impeach  before  the  Congress  any  official  of  the 
government,  including  the  president  himself,  and  designate 
one  of  the  two  vice-presidents  to  act  in  his  place  until  he 
can  be  tried.  And  the  council  elects  the  president  also, 
and  two  designados,  as  they  call  their  vice-presidents. 
These  are  not  only  lineal  successors  to  the  presidency,  when 
there  is  a vacancy  in  that  office,  but  may  be  called  upon  at 


120 


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any  time  to  perform  the  duties  of  the  chief  executive  tem- 
porarily, when  that  official  is  absent  from  the  country  or 
disabled  by  disease.  The  candidates  for  president  may 
be  members  of  the  Congress,  or  members  of  the  council, 
for  that  matter,  but  it  is  always  pretty  well  known  who  will 
be  chosen  when  the  returns  from  the  congressional  elections 
come  in,  for  the  candidates  represent  a presidential  ticket, 
as  our  electors  do,  and  the  act  of  the  council  in  voting  for 
president  is  therefore  merely  formal,  like  that  of  the  elec- 
toral college  in  the  United  States.  Thus  the  Congress  is 
always  in  political  sympathy  with  the  executive,  unless 
these  co-ordinate  branches,  as  has  sometimes  been  the  case, 
should  fall  out  after  the  election.  Every  Congress  chooses 
a new  president,  and  he  cannot  be  a candidate  again  until 
some  one  else  has  served. 

For  many  years  General  Antonio  Guzman  Blanco  was  the 
ruler  of  Venezuela,  whoever  occupied  the  executive  chair. 
The  people  went  through  the  form  of  exercising  their 
right  of  suffrage,  the  Congress  elected  councils,  and  the 
councils  chose  presidents,  but  the  head  of  the  government 
was  always  under  Guzman  Blanco’s  hat.  But  for  the  con- 
stitutional prohibition  he  might  have  been  “ perpetual 
president,”  as  was  Francia,  of  Paraguay,  and  by  reason  of 
his  power  and  popularity  he  remained  “ an  uncrowned 
king.”  Every  alternate  term  he  occupied  the  chair  him- 
self. During  the  interim  he  employed  a substitute,  whose 
general  policy  was  governed  by  his  will,  while  he  went 
abroad  with  a carte-blanche  all-around  commission  as  envoy 
extraordinary  and  minister  plenipotentiary  to  the  several 
courts  of  Europe,  and  enjoyed  a vacation  with  diplomatic 
honors. 

From  1884  to  1886  Guzman’s  substitute  was  General 
Joaquin  Crespo,  a mixed-breed  soldier  of  brawn  and  mili- 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


121 


tary  ability,  who  had  been  his  faithful  lieutenant.  Then 
he  served  part  of  a terra  himself,  but  before  his  time  ex- 
pired gave  up  the  reins  of  government  to  Don  Ilermogenes 
Lopez,  the  primero  designado,  or  vice-president,  and  went 
to  Europe  ostensibly  to  treat  with  Great  Britain  respecting 
the  disputed  boundary -line  which  has  given  so  much 
trouble.  In  July,  1888,  Dr.  Juan  Pablo  Rojas-Paul  was  in- 
augurated. Crespo  resisted.  He  had  been  president  long 
enough  to  learn  to  like  the  office,  its  authority  and  emolu- 
ments, and  desired  a second  term,  but  Guzman  said  “ no,” 
and  ordered  the  election  of  Paul.  Crespo  was  a popular 
soldier,  and,  relying  on  the  support  of  the  army,  prepared  a 
pronunciamento,  which  is  a synonyme  for  revolution.  But 
Guzman  had  merely  to  frown,  when  the  pronunciamentos, 
as  a revolutionary  party  is  called,  scattered.  Crespo  man- 
aged to  escape  from  the  country,  probably  with  the  conni- 
vance of  the  government,  for  an  exile  is  less  bother  than 
a prisoner,  and  took  refuge  in  the  Dutch  colony  of  Cura- 
50a,  a little  island  one  night’s  sail  from  La  Guayra,  which 
for  half  a century  has  been  to  Venezuela  what  Key  West  is 
to  Cuba  — an  asylum  for  conspirators.  Ilis  emissaries, 
mostly  men  who  held  office  under  him  when  he  was  presi- 
dent, and  expected  to  do  so  again  if  they  could  restore 
him  to  power,  continued  to  plot,  and,  their  plans  being  ripe, 
Crespo  made  his  way  to  the  Island  of  Trinidad,  where  the 
wonderful  pitch  lake  is  that  supplies  the  asplialtum  for  our 
pavements.  There  he  made  preparations  to  attack  the 
republic  in  the  rear,  as  it  were,  and  raise  the  standard  of 
rebellion  on  the  llanos  that  form  the  valley  of  the  Orinoco. 
With  a party  of  picked  men  at  Port-of-Spain  he  boarded 
an  ordinary  passenger  steamer,  which  he  intended  to  seize 
as  soon  as  it  was  out  of  the  harbor,  and  with  it  sail  up  the 
Orinoco  River  to  the  interior ; but  he  neglected  to  supply 


122 


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his'  people  with  passage  tickets,  and  when  the  purser  at- 
tempted to  collect  their  fare  the  row  began  prematurely. 
Several  of  the  officers  and  seamen,  as  well  as  a number  of 
the  insurgents,  were  shot  in  the  melee,  but  the  latter  were 
overcome,  put  in  irons,  and,  with  Crespo,  delivered  to  the 
Venezuelan  authorities.  The  ex -president  spent  several 
months  a prisoner  in  the  cabildo  at  Caracas,  awaiting  trial 
for  murder  and  treason,  but  was  finally  pardoned  and  al- 
lowed to  leave  the  country.  In  his  exile  he  prepared  for  a 
second  revolution,  which  was  successful,  and  he  now  occu- 
pies the  presidential  chair  again. 

But  not  without  an  interval.  In  1890  Andueza  Palacio 
was  elected,  and  served  peacefully  until  1892.  In  the 
meantime  a convention  of  delegates  was  called,  which  pre- 
pared a new  constitution,  and,  among  other  changes  in 
the  system  of  government,  extended  the  presidential  term 
from  two  to  four  years.  Then  arose  a question  whether 
this  extension  applied  to  the  incumbent  of  the  office. 
Andueza  Palacio  claimed  that  it  did  ; others  argued  that 
it  did  not;  that  having  been  elected  under  the  old  coir- 
stitution  his  term  was  limited  to  two  years,  and  that  the 
new  provisions  would  apply  only  to  his  successors,  who 
would  be  elected  for  four  years.  An  appeal  was  made 
to  the  Supreme  Court,  which  decided  that  Andueza  Palacio 
was  wrong,  and  that  his  authority  expired  in  1892.  But 
lie  declined  to  vacate  the  office  or  to  order  an  election. 

Then  Crespo,  who  had  returned  to  the  country,  and 
been  chosen  a senator  in  congress  from  his  state,  declared 
a revolution,  and  after  nearly  a year  of  bloody  warfare 
was  victorious.  In  the  fall  of  1893  lie  captured  Caracas, 
and  proclaimed  himself  dictator,  while  Andueza  Palacio 
tied  to  Paris,  where  he  still  resides  in  exile.  When  peace 
was  fully  restored  he  ordered  a new  election,  and  was 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


128 


formally  chosen  president  for  a term  of  four  years  com- 
mencing in  February,  1894. 

General  Crespo  is  in  many  respects  a remarkable  man. 
He  comes  from  the  llanos,  or  prairies,  of  the  Orinoco 
valley,  and  was  born  on  a ranche.  II is  parents  were  of 
mixed  blood,  Indian  and  Spanish,  but  his  face  is  a fine 
type  of  the  mulatto.  When  only  a boy  he  entered  the 
army,  by  faithful  and  efficient  service  became  the  com- 
mander of  a division  before  he  was  thirty  years  old,  and 
during  the  long  struggle  of  Guzman  Blanco  to  obtain 
power  was  his  ablest  and  most  successful  subordinate. 
When  Guzman  finally  reached  the  presidency  he  made 
Crespo  a lieutenant-general,  and  afterwards  gave  him  com- 
mand of  the  army  of  the  republic. 

Mrs.  Crespo  is  also  of  humble  origin  and  mixed  blood, 
and  a woman  of  strong  character.  Her  ability  in  political 
intrigue  has  often  been  demonstrated,  and  her  influence 
over  her  husband  is  greater  than  that  of  any  man  in 
Venezuela.  Her  ambition  has  often  inspired,  and  her 
strength  of  purpose  has  often  sustained,  him  in  both  mili- 
tary and  political  achievements,  and  during  the  last  revo- 
lution she  accompanied  his  army  and  shared  his  tent  in  a 
long  and  arduous  campaign.  She  has  also  excellent  busi- 
ness capacity,  and  during  his  years  of  exile  has  managed 
his  estates  with  great  ability  and  profit,  furnishing  the 
means  by  which  he  has  been  able  to  arm  his  troops  and 
procure  supplies.  She  has  no  taste  for  social  enjoyment, 
and  has  the  good  sense  to  realize  that  she  cannot  shine 
as  a society  queen  ; but  she  has  been  a good  mother,  and 
is  ambitious  to  fit  her  children  for  the  station  they  will 
occupy.  She  is  devoted  to  the  church,  generous  to  chari- 
table objects,  and  has  done  much  to  improve  the  condition 
of  the  poor. 


124 


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Juan  Pablo  Rojas-Paul  was  a lawyer,  college  professor, 
and  literary  man ; and  he  was  fifty-eight  years  old  when 
inaugurated.  He  came  from  a family  famous  in  the  history 
of  Venezuela,  His  maternal  grandfather,  the  learned  and 
eloquent  Doctor  Felipe  Fermin  Paul,  represented  the  colony 
of  Venezuela  in  the  Spanish  Cortes  at  Madrid  during  the 
days  of  the  viceroys,  was  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Vene- 
zuelan Declaration  of  Independence,  and  an  active  aid  and 
adviser  of  Bolivar.  His  father,  Don  Jose  Ysidoro  Rojas, 
was  a lawyer  of  distinction,  at  one  time  a member  of  the 
cabinet,  and  for  some  years  chief-justice  of  the  Supreme 
Court.  II is  paternal  grandfather,  Don  Juan  Rojas,  was  also 
a man  of  eminence,  and  president  of  the  Central  University 
of  Venezuela.  He  calls  himself  Rojas-Paul,  the  first  being 
liis  paternal  and  the  latter  his  maternal  family  name,  ac- 
cording to  the  custom  of  the  country,  like  Guzman  Blanco, 
whose  father  was  Antonio  Guzman,  and  whose  mother  was 
Senorita  Blanco.  Rojas-Paul  is  called  doctor  because  he 
received  the  degree  of  LL.D.  from  the  University  of  Ca- 
racas in  1852.  He  has  been  a professor  in  that  institution, 
a member  of  the  judiciary,  a representative  in  Congress, 
and  a member  of  the  cabinet  under  several  administrations, 
serving  as  secretary  of  state,  secretary  of  the  treasury,  and 
secretary  of  the  interior,  so  that  he  was  well  qualified  by 
training  and  experience  for  the  office  of  chief  executive. 

The  President  of  Venezuela  lives  in  the  Casa  Amarilla,  or 
Yellow  House,  so  called  because  of  the  color  of  the  paint  upon 
its  exterior  walls.  It  stands  opposite  the  Plaza  Bolivar,  one 
of  the  handsomest  little  parks  in  the  world,  with  a brown  stat- 
ue of  the  great  Liberator  in  the  centre,  and  broad  walks  that 
are  thronged  nightly  with  the  belles  and  beaux  of  Caracas, 
who  come  out  to  hear  the  band  play  and  enjoy  flirtations. 
Opposite  is  the  great  cathedral,  and,  adjoining,  the  build- 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


123 


ing  in  which  are  most  of  the  offices  of  the  government. 
The  Casa  Amarilla  is  a two-story  structure  of  plainly  stuc- 
coed stone,  surrounding  a large  court,  or  patio.  It  is  fur- 
nished with  some  elegance,  and  the  executive  salon,  in 
which  ambassadors  are  received,  and  official  ceremonies 
held,  is  very  nearly  as  large  as  the  East  Room  of  the  White 
House  at  Washington. 

I first  saw  this  room  when  the  South  American  commis- 
sion presented  their  letters  of  credence  from  President 
Arthur  to  President  Crespo,  and  a description  of  that  cer- 
emony will  convey  an  idea  of  the  formality  with  which  of- 
ficial transactions  are  attempted  in  most  of  the  Spanish- 
American  republics.  When  the  President  of  the  United 
States  receives  an  ambassador  from  a foreign  power  there 
is  considerably  less  ceremony.  The  ambassador  is  called 
for  at  his  hotel  by  the  secretary  of  state,  who  escorts  him 
to  the  Blue  Room  at  the  White  House.  A messenger  is  then 
sent  to  summon  the  president,  who  comes  down-stairs  in  his 
morning-coat,  listens  to  the  reading  of  an  address  by  the 
ambassador,  and  makes  a brief  and  complimentary  reply. 
But  our  less  populous  neighbors  enjoy  more  “ ceremony.” 
At  eleven  o’clock  one  morning  we  were  waited  upon  at 
our  hotel  in  Caracas  by  a gentleman  in  a gorgeous  uni- 
form, who  bore  the  rank  of  official  introducer  of  ambassa- 
dors. He  conducted  us  to  a gilded  coach,  which,  with  an 
escort  of  gayly  caparisoned  cavalry,  was  waiting  at  the 
door.  We  were  then  driven  to  the  Casa  Amarilla.  At  the 
entrance  the  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  in  court  costume, 
was  waiting  to  receive  us.  We  followed  him  up-stairs  to 
an  anteroom,  where  a couple  of  aides-de-camp  were  in  at- 
tendance. Then  a procession  was  formed,  the  minister  of 
foreign  affairs  escorting  the  senior  commissioner,  the  offi- 
cial introducer  of  ambassadors  the  second  in  rank,  one  aide- 


136 


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de-camp,  the  resident  United  States  minister,  and  another, 
the  secretary  of  the  commission.  As  the  column  was 
formed  thus,  by  twos,  the  wide  doors  were  thrown  open  by 
servants,  and  we  saw  at  the  end  of  the  long  room,  on  a low 
platform,  President  Crespo  in  the  full  uniform  of  a general, 
with  wide  yellow  sash,  seated  upon  a gilded  throne  with  the 
coat-of-arms  of  Venezuela  above  him,  and  his  cabinet,  also 
in  uniform,  with  similar  sashes,  sitting  around  their  chief. 

As  the  doors  were  opened  we  made  a low  bow,  which 
was  responded  to  by  the  group  at  the  other  end  of  the 
room.  Then  we  marched  slowly  towards  them.  Half-way 
across  the  intervening  space  we  stopped  and  made  a second 
bow,  to  which  the  president  and  his  cabinet  responded  and 
rose  from  their  chairs.  Then,  having  reached  the  foot  of 
the  throne,  we  made  a third  bow,  and,  after  a few  words  of 
introduction  from  the  United  States  minister,  the  senior 
commissioner  read  an  address,  conveying  to  the  President 
of  Venezuela  expressions  of  profound  friendship  from  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  congratulations  upon  the 
peace  and  prosperity  of  the  country,  and  earnest  wishes  for 
its  continuance.  President  Crespo,  in  reply,  read  an  ad- 
dress of  welcome,  which  reciprocated  the  sentiments  of  the 
President  of  “ La  Grande  Republica,”  as  they  call  the 
United  States,  and  expressed  his  desire  to  receive,  at  our 
pleasure  and  convenience,  any  further  communications  vTe 
might  have  to  make.  Then  the  commission  made  its  best 
bow,  the  procession  formed  again  and  marched  away.  At 
the  centre  of  the  room  we  wheeled  around,  made  another 
bow,  and,  having  reached  the  doors,  xvheeled  again  and 
made  a third. 

Guzman  Blanco,  when  he  was  president,  did  not  occupy 
the  Executive  Mansion,  because  he  had  so  many  children, 
but  had  a much  larger  and  more  elegant  residence  in  an- 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


127 


other  part  of  the  city.  Dr.  Rojas-Paul  and  his  successors, 
however,  have  lived  there  with  their  families,  and  occupied 
for  their  office  a spacious  room  upon  the  second  floor. 
There,  with  his  private  secretary,  the  President  of  Vene- 
zuela attends  to  his  correspondence,  receives  his  ministers 
and  other  officials  and  the  public,  who,  however,  unless  they 
happen  to  be  special  friends,  are  required  to  make  appoint- 
ments with  him  in  advance  through  the  member  of  the 
cabinet  who  has  charge  of  that  branch  of  the  government 
to  which  the  business  of  the  visitor  relates.  Thus,  if  one 
desires  to  see  the  president  upon  matters  relating  to  the 
army,  he  must  apply  for  an  audience  through  the  minister 
of  w’ar,  and  the  latter  informs  his  excellency  concerning 
the  facts,  so  that  he  may  be  able  to  discuss  the  subject  in- 
telligently wflth  the  visitor,  which  naturally  saves  a good 
deal  of  time. 

There  are  days,  however,  when  the  public,  irrespective  of 
wealth,  rank,  or  politics,  are  admitted  to  the  president  to 
submit  petitions,  and  this  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
features  in  Venezuelan  official  life.  People  who  want 
offices  or  pensions,  contracts  or  concessions  or  other  favors 
at  the  hands  of  the  president,  and  have  been  prevented 
from  communicating  with  him,  all  come  out  early  on  that 
reception-day,  and  at  least  have  the  satisfaction  of  making 
their  wishes  known,  even  if  he  is  not  able  to  gratify  them. 
There  will  be  women  seeking  pardons  for  husbands,  broth- 
ers, or  sons  who  have  been  convicted  of  crime,  or  ask- 
ing the  release  of  some  relative  from  the  army.  Com- 
plaints of  injustice  on  the  part  of  the  police  or  the  army 
or  government  officials  are  frequent.  Even  more  delicate 
matters  are  called  to  the  attention  of  the  president,  and  his 
aid  or  interference  asked.  He  is  compelled  to  listen  to  the 
recital  of  matrimonial  infelicities  in  a land  where  there  is 


128 


VENEZUELA 


no  sucli  thing  as  divorce,  and  maidens  whose  lovers  are  in 
the  army  or  are  fugitives  from  justice  often  call  to  secure 
his  intercession.  Of  course  there  are  many  beggars,  and 
the  president,  from  his  own  slender  purse,  is  able  to  extend 
much  charity  in  cases  of  emergency,  but  he  refers  most  of 
the  appeals  to  the  police  for  investigation. 

Rojas-Faul  was  a man  of  benevolent  disposition,  and  one 
of  his  first  official  acts  was  to  order  the  establishment  of 
a charity  hospital  of  one  thousand  beds — something  un- 
known at  Caracas  before.  Nor  was  this  his  only  act  of 
philanthropy.  Very  soon  after  his  inauguration  he  di- 
rected the  secretary  of  the  treasury  to  distribute  his  salary 
as  president  for  the  first  year  among  the  families  of  the 
soldiers  composing  the  guard  at  the  capital  as  a reward  for 
their  good  behavior  and  fidelity  to  the  government.  lie  is 
also  a religious  man,  a devout  Catholic,  and  while  president 
attended  mass  regularly  at  the  cathedral,  where  he  could 
be  seen  early  every  morning  kneeling  upon  the  damp  and 
cold  stone  floor  with  servants  and  common  soldiers,  as  well 
as  people  of  distinction  who  are  pious  enough  to  observe 
their  religious  duties  in  that  manner.  It  is  not  a common 
custom  for  business  men  or  politicians  to  attend  church, 
except  upon  feast  or  fast  days.  They  usually  permit  their 
wives  and  daughters  to  monopolize  the  religion  of  the 
family.  President  Rojas-Paul  did  not  allow  himself  to  be 
attended  by  aides-de-camp  or  body-guards  of  soldiers,  as  is 
the  custom  of  most  of  the  South  American  presidents.  He 
was  a civil  magistrate,  and  conducted  his  administration  as 
a civilian,  unlike  most  of  his  predecessors,  who  were  military 
men. 

The  “ fad  ” of  Rojas-Paul,  if  I may  use  that  term,  was 
the  education  of  young  savages  of  the  Goajira  tribe  of 
Indians,  who  inhabit  the  peninsula  of  that  name,  which 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


129 


lies  between  Colombia  and  Venezuela.  One  of  the  cus- 
toms of  that  nation  of  aborigines  is  to  sell  their  children 
into  bondage  to  their  neighbors  of  Maracaibo  and  Rio 
Hacha,  where  they  are  always  in  demand,  as  they  make 
excellent  servants  when  properly  trained.  Dr.  Rojas-Paul 
has  always  taken  a great  interest  in  them,  having  once 
made  an  exploration  of  their  country,  and  a large  num- 
ber of  the  young  men  and  maidens  of  the  tribe  have 
been  educated  and  trained  under  the  care  of  the  Church 
at  his  expense,  and  under  his  own  personal  supervision. 

Official  receptions  are  held  at  the  Capitol,  or  Palacio 
Federal — a fine  building  only  a block  distant,  where  there 
is  an  immense  room  especially  adapted  to  entertaining. 
Although  but  one  story  in  height,  it  is  the  handsomest 
and  largest  structure  in  Venezuela,  and  stands  upon  the 
former  site  of  a famous  old  monastery,  whose  walls  were 
stanch  enough  to  sustain  the  shocks  of  the  great  earth- 
quake that  destroyed  the  city  in  1812.  The  Palacio  Fed- 
eral covers  an  entire  square,  with  a circular  court  in  the 
centre  that  has  a fine  bronze  fountain,  several  statues  of 
marble,  and  many  beautiful  flowering  plants.  Around  the 
court  is  a wide  corridor  with  massive  pillars,  from  wffiich 
several  rooms  are  entered,  for  there  is  no  way  to  reach 
them  from  the  street. 

At  one  end  of  the  building  is  a lofty  elliptical-shaped 
room,  200  feet  long  and  from  40  to  100  in  width,  without 
a pillar,  where  balls  and  receptions  and  other  official  cere- 
monials take  place,  and  the  Venezuelans  are  much  given 
to  that  sort  of  thing.  There  is  no  finer  ball-room  in  the 
world.  The  uncarpeted  floor  is  laid  in  woods  of  different 
colors;  but  the  walls  and  ceiling  are  a ghastly  white, 
and  the  gilt  furniture,  upholstered  in  gorgeous  brocades 
and  satins,  has  a somewhat  startling  effect.  It  is  always 

9 


130 


VENEZUELA 


arranged,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  in  rows 
along  the  walls. 

This  room  is  used  as  a national  portrait  gallery  also,  and 
contains  a collection  of  about  sixty  pieces,  as  good  as  one 
often  finds,  and  better  than  we  have  at  Washington,  repre- 
senting men  who  have  been  notable  in  the  history  of  the 
republic.  At  one  end  is  a heroic  portrait  of  Bolivar,  and 
at  the  other  one  of  Guzman  Blanco,  uniform  in  style  and 
frame,  who  looks  as  grand  and  proud  as  if  he  had  made 
the  world.  Guzman  was  strictly  impartial  in  selecting  sub- 
jects for  this  collection.  Beside  the  portrait  of  the  great 
Bolivar  hangs  that  of  Paez,  who  grew  to  greatness  under  the 
protection  and  encouragement  of  the  Liberator,  then  over- 
threw him,  and  drove  his  patron,  heart-broken  and  humili- 
ated, into  exile.  Next  comes  the  man  who  treated  Paez 
as  he  had  treated  Bolivar,  and  sent  him  to  die  in  exile  in 
New  York. 

For  seventy-five  years  Venezuela  was  a carnival  of  con- 
spiracy and  rebellion,  and  from  Bolivar  to  Guzman  Blanco 
power  was  held  by  force  of  arms,  to  be  overcome  as  often 
as  an  insurrectionary  army  could  be  collected.  But  nearly 
every  man  who  has  been  president,  or  has  overturned  a 
president,  has  his  portrait  in  this  collection,  all  standing  as 
heroes  for  the  admiration  of  the  people  — a group  of 
Washingtons,  Benedict  Arnolds,  Aaron  Burrs,  Lincolns, 
Grants,  Davises,  Lees,  intermingled  without  the  slightest 
regard  to  previous  associations.  Guzman  was  even  so 
generous  as  to  admit  the  portrait  of  a former  subordinate 
who  conspired  against  him  and  was  shot  for  treason. 

In  one  of  the  wings  of  the  Palacio  Federal  sits  the  Su- 
preme Court  of  the  country  ; in  another  are  the  offices  of 
the  Interior  and  War  departments;  while  at  the  opposite 
end  of  the  building  are  the  halls  of  the  national  legislature 


TIIE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


131 


— the  Senate  and  the  Chamber  of  Deputies — two  lofty, 
barn-like-looking  rooms,  each  about  sixty  feet  square,  and 
destitute  of  decoration,  except  the  portraits  of  Bolivar  and 
Guzman,  which  are  seen  everywhere.  The  members  sit  in 
ordinary  cane-seated  office-chairs,  without  desks  or  tables, 
the  presiding  officers  being  placed  in  little  coops  perched 
high  upon  the  walls,  with  a shelf  for  the  tribune  on  one 
side  and  another  for  the  clerk  on  the  other. 

Opposite  the  Palacio  Federal  is  the  University  of  Cara- 
cas, a beautiful  Gothic  structure  of  white  marble,  and  be- 
yond that  the  Opera-house.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
square  is  the  principal  hotel. 

The  President  of  Venezuela  is  assisted  in  the  perform- 
ance of  his  duties  by  a cabinet  of  eight  members — namely, 
a minister  of  the  interior,  a minister  of  foreign  relations,  a 
minister  of  public  works,  a minister  of  the  treasury,  a min- 
ister of  public  credit,  a minister  of  progress,  a minister  of 
justice  and  education,  and  a minister  of  war  and  marine. 

The  president  receives  a salary  of  $1000  a month,  a 
house  to  live  in,  horses  and  carriages,  servants  and  furniture, 
and,  in  fact,  everything  except  his  food.  He  conducts  him- 
self very  much  like  the  President  of  the  United  States,  his 
daily  routine  is  similar,  and  he  is  annoyed  by  office-seekers 
to  about  the  same  degree.  He  commences  business  at 
half-past  six  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  often  has  cabinet 
meetings  as  early  as  seven.  The  government  offices  open 
at  seven,  when  all  the  clerks  and  officials  are  expected  to 
be  on  hand,  no  matter  how  late  they  were  dancing  or  din- 
ing the  night  before ; but  they  knock  off  work  at  eleven 
for  their  breakfast  and  siesta,  and  do  not  return  to  their 
desks  again  until  two. 

Cabinet  ministers  are  paid  $6000  a year,  and  congress- 
men $2500,  without  any  additional  allowances;  but  the 


132 


VENEZUELA 


sessions  do  not  last  more  than  three  months  usually,  so  that 
they  may  engage  in  their  regular  occupations  the  rest  of 
the  year. 

• The  standing  army  is  composed  of  five  battalions  of  in- 
fantry, 1842  men;  one  battery  of  artillery,  301  men;  and 
one  regiment  of  cavalry,  325  strong.  Besides  these  regu- 
lars, who  garrison  the  capital  and  the  several  forts  through- 
out the  country,  there  is  a federal  militia  system,  drilled 
regularly,  and  required  to  respond  to  the  call  of  the  govern- 
ment at  any  time.  There  is  no  frontier  to  protect  against 
the  incursions  of  savages,  for,  although  wild  Indians  can  be 
found  in  the  interior  and  along  the  branches  of  the  Orinoco, 
they  do  not  trouble  the  whites,  aud  add  their  share  to  the 
products  of  the  republic. 

The  government  has  established  a school  of  industry  for 
the  education  of  Indian  children,  and  every  year  a com- 
mission is  sent  to  obtain  recruits  for  the  army  among  them. 
The  boys  are  taught  trades  and  all  sorts  of  handicraft,  as 
well  as  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic,  and  the  girls  are 
drilled  in  the  duties  of  the  home.  When  they  have  reached 
an  age  when  their  faculties  are  fully  developed  and  their 
habits  fixed,  they  are  sent  back  among  their  tribes  as  mis- 
sionaries, not  to  teach  religion,  but  civilization  ; and  the 
Indians  are  said  to  be  improving  rapidly  under  the  tuition 
of  their  own  daughters  and  sons. 

The  rank  and  file  of  the  army  is  composed  almost  exclu- 
sively of  Indians,  negroes,  and  half-breeds.  They  receive 
pay  to  the  amount  of  one  franc  per  day,  from  which  they 
must  furnish  their  own  subsistence.  They  are  obedient, 
faithful,  and  good  fighters.  Some  of  the  fiercest  battles 
the  world  has  ever  known  have  taken  place  in  Venezuela 
with  these  poor  fellows  on  both  sides.  Their  uniform  in 
the  field  is  a pair  of  cotton  drawers,  a cotton  shirt,  a cheap 


THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  VENEZUELA 


133 


straw  liat,  and  a pair  of  sandals ; but  when  they  come  to 
occupy  the  barracks  in  town,  and  do  guard  duty  around 
the  government  buildings,  they  are  made  to  wear  red  wool- 
len trousers,  blue  coats,  and  caps  of  red  and  blue,  with  reg- 
ular army  shoes.  There  is  a certain  native  grace  of  move- 
ment and  posture  about  the  muscular  peons  when  their 
arms  and  limbs  are  not  restrained,  but  “ store  clothes  ” do 
not  fit  them  and  look  very  uncomfortable. 

The  officers  of  the  army  are  generally  good-looking 
young  fellows  of  the  best  families,  who  take  readily  to 
military  service  and  enjoy  it.  They  wear  well-kept  uni- 
forms, have  good  manners,  and  are  usually  graduates  of 
the  University. 

None  of  the  Venezuelan  money,  neither  gold  nor  silver 
— which  is  the  circulating  medium,  for  there  are  but  two 
banks  of  issue  with  limited  circulation — has  any  sign  or 
inscription  upon  it  by  which  its  value  may  be  detected. 
The  ordinary  silver  piece,  the  standard  of  all  value,  is  the 
bolivar.  On  this  all  computations  are  based,  all  interest 
reckoned,  and  all  bills  at  the  stores  are  made  out.  It  has 
the  same  value  as  the  French  franc — twenty  cents  in  our 
money.  Going  down  the  scale,  the  next  is  a real,  which  is 
half  a bolivar,  the  medio,  which  is  five  cents,  the  quartillo, 
two  and  a half  cents,  and  the  centavo.  Going  up,  there  are 
coins  representing  two,  two  and  a half,  and  five  bolivars — 
the  latter  being  called  a peso  fuerte,  and  worth  100  cents. 
Above  that  are  gold  coins  representing  four  dollars  and 
twenty  dollars ; but,  as  I have  said,  not  one  of  them  bears 
an  inscription  denoting  its  value,  and  those  who  handle 
them  have  to  judge  by  their  size. 

There  are  two  banks  in  the  city  of  Caracas,  one  of  which 
— “El  Banco  de  Venezuela,”  with  its  branches  in  all  parts 
of  the  republic — is  to  the  government  of  Venezuela  what 


134 


VENEZUELA 


the  Bank  of  England  is  to  Great  Britain — a place  of  de- 
posit and  a disbursing  agent.  All  the  collectors  of  public 
revenue  make  their  deposits  there  regularly,  and  the  bank 
has  the  use  of  the  money  until  it  is  checked  out  to  pay 
current  expenses  by  the  secretary  of  the  treasury.  This 
has  not  been  so  great  an  advantage,  however,  as  might  be 
imagined,  for  often  in  past  years  the  government  funds 
have  been  overdrawn  and  the  bank  has  had  to  make  ad- 
vances. El  Banco  de  Venezuela  has  a capital  of  3,200,000 
bolivars,  or  $640,000,  which  is  divided  into  only  thirty-two 
shares.  It  is  a bank  of  issue,  and  has  notes  out  to  the 
amount  of  half  its  paid-up  capital,  which  is  the  limit  fixed 
by  law.  Money  is  loaned  on  real  estate  or  collaterals  for 
from  six  to  nine  per  cent.,  the  former  being  the  usual  rate. 
Call  loans  are  unknown.  There  has  never  been  sufficient 
business  in  the  country  to  require  that  sort  of  practice. 

Taxes  are  light,  and  are  assessed  in  a peculiar  way.  If 
a man  owns  a house  which  he  leases  to  a neighbor,  or  a 
farm,  or  any  other  piece  of  real  property,  he  has  to  pay  for 
taxes  a sum  equal  to  one-half  of  a month’s  rent  every  year. 
If  he  lives  in  the  house  or  operates  the  farm  himself,  the 
rate  of  taxation  is  governed  by  what  it  would  rent  for. 

Most  of  the  revenue  of  the  government  comes  from  cus- 
toms dues,  and  everything  that  passes  through  the  custom- 
house, both  imports  and  exports,  has  to  pay  duty.  Even 
passengers  who  go  and  come  are  taxed  by  being  compelled 
to  take  out  a permit  for  landing  and  departing.  Duties 
are  assessed  by  the  pound,  and  not  by  the  value  of  the 
articles  imported.  Lumber,  coal,  dry-goods,  drugs,  shoes, 
confectionery,  bacon,  and  jewelry,  as  well  as  all  other  forms 
of  imports,  are  classified  into  schedules,  and  each  is  taxed 
so  much  per  pound,  according  to  its  specific  gravity,  as  one 
might  say. 


CHAPTER  XI 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 

At  the  expiration  of  his  last  term  of  office  in  1888  Gen- 
eral Guzman  Blanco  arranged  for  the  election  of  Dr.  Rojas- 
Paul  as  his  successor,  and  departed  with  his  family  for 
Paris  with  a general  commission  as  envoy  extraordinary 
and  minister  plenipotentiary  to  all  the  nations  of  Europe, 
intending  as  usual  to  direct  the  affairs  of  the  government 
by  mail  and  cable.  He  could  not  have  chosen  a more  com- 
petent or  popular  substitute,  for  Dr.  Rojas-Paul  had  the 
confidence  and  respect  of  the  people  and  long  experience 
in  public  affairs.  But  the  Dictator  had  not  been  absent 
many  months  before  he  noticed  signs  of  independence  in 
his  protege  and  successor  that  were  displeasing  to  a man 
of  his  autocratic  disposition. 

The  new  president  adopted  a policy  of  conciliation  and 
toleration  which  contrasted  strongly  with  “ The  Illustrious 
American’s  ” methods,  and  it  won  the  support  and  confi- 
dence of  the  business  community  and  all  patriotic  citizens. 
Exiles  returned  home,  politicial  offenders  were  released 
from  prison  and  recalled  from  banishment,  the  press  was 
made  free,  and  the  military  guards  which  had  been  lcept 
constantly  about  the  executive  mansion  for  the  protection 
of  Guzman  Blanco’s  person  were  withdrawn  and  sent  to 
their  barracks.  Rojas-Paul  announced  himself  “a  civil 
president,”  in  contradistinction  to  the  long  line  of  military 


136 


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men  who  had  filled  his  chair  and  governed  the  country  by 
military  methods.  He  selected  as  his  advisers,  too,  citi- 
zens, not  soldiers — representatives  of  the  learned  profes- 
sions and  the  commercial  interests  of  the  country. 

Rojas-Paul  pruned  down  the  pay-roll,  abolished  the  sine- 
cures Guzman  had  arranged  for  his  favorites,  and  sent 
them  one  after  another  away.  Some  of  them  went  to  Paris 
to  complain  and  to  receive  the  consolation  of  their  chief, 
to  which  no  attention  was  paid.  The  city  and  the  country 
at  large  soon  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  the  policy,  and 
fortunately  for  Rojas-Paul  were  unprecedentedly  prosper- 
ous. The  price  of  coffee,  which  is  the  staple  in  Venezuela, 
was  higher  than  for  a generation,  and  all  other  crops 
shared  the  increase  in  value  as  well  as  abundance.  The 
government  paid  cash  for  everything,  usually  in  advance, 
for  there  was  a heavy  and  increasing  balance  in  the  treasury, 
something-  unknown  before.  Peculation  and  extravagance 
were  stopped,  and  the  officials  discovered  that  it  was  ex- 
pected of  them  to  look  after  something  besides  their  own 
personal  interests. 

All  this  was  lucky  for  Rojas-Paul,  and  but  for  such  a 
fortuitous  combination  of  circumstances  he  might  not 
have  been  able  to  sustain  himself  when  the  crisis  came. 
There  are  two  classes  of  men  in  Venezuela.  One  class 
make  it  their  business  to  look  after  politics.  The  other 
make  it  their  business  to  let  politics  alone.  The  latter 
class,  who  do  not  often  care  who  is  president,  gave  Rojas- 
Paul  a solid,  active,  and  sincere  support,  and  with  such 
backing  he  had  the  courage  to  adhere  to  his  policy,  re- 
gardless of  Guzman’s  displeasure. 

In  the  meantime  the  latter  was  in  Paris,  granting  con- 
cessions in  the  most  extravagant  and  reckless  manner. 
Guzman  was  empowered  to  negotiate  for  the  establishment 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


137 


of  colonies  of  immigrants  in  various  sections  of  the  repub- 
lic; but  in  making  concessions  with  immigration  companies 
he  sold  them  the  right  to  locate  upon  unoccupied  private 
as  well  as  public  lands,  which,  of  course,  aroused  indigna- 
tion and  active  hostility.  He  granted  a concession  to  a 
French  syndicate  to  establish  a banking  system  through- 
out Venezuela  that  would  have  ruined  every  local  banker 
in  the  republic.  He  gave  concessions  for  railways  in  all 
directions,  pledging  the  government  to  all  sorts  of  guar- 
antees, and,  in  negotiating  for  the  funding  of  the  public 
debt,  agreed  that  the  interest  upon  bonds  held  in  Ven- 
ezuela should  be  reduced  one  per  cent.,  while  that  upon 
bonds  held  by  foreigners  should  be  increased  a similar 
amount.  This  was  not  calculated  to  make  him  popular 
with  local  capitalists  nor  with  the  officials  of  the  govern- 
ment, for  he  consented  that  the  entire  revenues  should  be 
mortgaged  to  secure  the  concessions  he  had  granted. 
There  was  an  outcry  at  once,  first  in  Caracas  and  then  in 
Paris,  for  President  liojas-Paul  declined  to  approve  many 
of  the  concessions,  and  Congress  sustained  him  in  every 
instance. 

It  was  the  first  time  since  1870  that  the  Congress  of 
Venezuela  had  refused  to  consent  to  or  had  even  criticised 
an  act  of  Guzman  Blanco.  It  was  the  signal  for  every  man 
who  had  a grudge — and  the  country  is  full  of  those  who 
suffered  from  his  tyranny  during  his  reign  of  eighteen 
years — to  throw  stones  at  him.  Editors  who  had  been  re- 
pressed by  force  or  fear  of  the  calabozo  opened  their  bat- 
teries, and  the  chief  entertainment  of  the  people  was  to 
discuss  the  suppressed  scandals  of  Guzman’s  reign. 

In  the  midst  of  the  excitement  over  the  rebellion  of  the 
people  against  the  Dictator  occurred  what  is  known  as  the 
Paez  incident.  General  Paez,  who  was  one  of  the  heroes 


138 


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of  the  war  for  independence,  and  for  half  a century  a prom- 
inent figure  in  the  affairs  of  the  republic,  was  banished 
and  died  a broken-hearted  exile  in  New  York.  The  people 
of  Venezuela  desired  that  his  remains  should  be  brought 
home,  and  in  1888  the  government  of  the  United  States 
furnished  a man-of-war  for  that  purpose.  The  body  was 
buried  in  the  national  Pantheon,  beside  that  of  Simon  Bol- 
ivar, with  great  ceremony,  and  a handsome  monument  was 
erected.  All  this  was  displeasing  to  Guzman  Blanco,  and 
he  prepared  a pamphlet  in  which  the  memory  of  Paez  was 
assailed  and  the  government  and  people  denounced  in  bit- 
ter terms  for  paying  honor  to  the  bones  of  a traitor. 
Thousands  of  copies  of  this  pamphlet  were  printed  in 
Paris  and  sent  to  Caracas,  where  they  were  seized  by  the 
students  of  the  university  and  burned  in  the  plaza  before 
the  Pantheon.  The  leaders — a few  young  men  aged  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five,  and  belonging  to  the  best  families 
of  the  republic — were  arrested  for  riot,  and  for  a few  days 
were  imprisoned.  But  Guzman  Blanco,  when  he  heard  of 
the  affair,  could  scarcely  restrain  himself,  and  cabled  Pres- 
ident Rojas- Paul,  demanding  that  they  should  be  rear- 
rested, tried  by  court-martial,  and  shot.  That  is  what  he 
would  have  done  under  similar  circumstances,  but  the  pres- 
ident declined  to  comply  with  the  demand,  on  the  ground 
of  public  policy. 

A heated  correspondence  between  the  president  and 
“The  Illustrious  American”  followed,  but,  although  the 
nature  of  the  letters  was  well  understood,  their  contents 
were  never  published.  Then  Guzman  Blanco  wrote  to  Gen- 
eral Crespo,  who  was  in  Peru,  saying  that  it  was  their  duty 
to  be  friends,  and  make  war  against  a common  enemy. 
He  suggested  that  he  would  furnish  the  means  if  Crespo 
would  take  the  active  leadership  of  a revolution  for  the 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


139 


overthrow  of  Rojas-Paul,  and  invited  him  to  come  to  Paris 
for  consultation.  Crespo  did  not  reply  to  the  letter,  hut 
sent  a copy  of  it  to  the  president. 

Guzman  Blanco’s  power  always  rested  upon  a well-organ- 
ized army  and  commanders  who  were  devoted  to  his  inter- 
ests. Rojas-Paul,  fearing  that  they  would  betray  him,  be- 
gan gradually  to  substitute  men  in  whom  he  had  confidence 
for  the  Dictator’s  friends,  and  soon  made  mutiny  impossible. 
These  changes  also  called  out  indignant  remonstrances  from 
Paris,  and  the  mails  were  full  of  them  when  the  27th  of 
April  arrived.  This  was  the  anniversary  of  the  capture  of 
Caracas,  and  the  commencement  of  Guzman  Blanco’s  reign. 
It  had  always  been  customary  to  celebrate  it  as  a national 
holiday,  with  military  parades,  orations  eulogistic  of  “The 
Illustrious  American,”  and  the  decoration  of  the  statues  he 
had  erected  in  his  own  honor. 

The  government  made  the  usual  preparations  for  the  cel- 
ebration, although  the  newspapers  were  full  of  protests  and 
the  students  declared  that  the  statues  should  not  be  deco- 
rated even  if  it  cost  them  their  lives.  When  morning  came 
the  streets  were  filled  with  an  excited  populace  ; the  saloons 
were  all  closed  as  a precaution,  and  the  soldiers,  instead  of 
parading  in  column,  were  directed  to  patrol  the  streets  to 
prevent  riots.  An  attempt  was  made  to  decorate  the  stat- 
ues, but  the  students  tore  the  wreathes  in  fragments  and 
threw  stones  at  the  bronze  images.  Processions  of  citizens 
marched  the  streets  shouting,  “ Down  with  the  Dictator  !” 
“ Death  to  the  Tyrant,  Traitor,  and  Thief !”  and  the  walls 
of  the  houses  were  inscribed  with  similar  sentiments.  The 
entire  military  force  in  Caracas  was  required  to  protect  the 
statues  from  the  mob,  which  would  have  torn  them  down. 
Day  and  night,  for  weeks,  the  two  statues  of  “ The  Illus- 
trious American,”  who  called  himself  “ The  Regenerator  of 


140 


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Venezuela,”  and  his  residence  were  surrounded  by  compa- 
nies of  soldiers. 

Guzman  Blanco  was  informed  of  these  proceedings  by 
cable,  and  the  wrath  of  the  autocrat  may  be  imagined.  He 
sent  many  insulting  messages  to  President  Rojas-Paul,  who 
endeavored  in  vain  to  pacify  him.  On  the  16tli  of  May 
the  mail-steamer  from  France  arrived  at  La  Guayra,  bring- 
ing letters  from  Paris  to  the  president  and  several  other 
leading  men  of  the  country.  Their  contents  were  un- 
known, but  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  on  the 
following  day  Rojas-Paul  tendered  to  Congress  his  resig- 
nation. 

As  soon  as  the  fact  became  known  about  the  city — and 
the  news  was  on  every  tongue  in  a very  few  minutes — 
every  place  of  business  was  closed,  and  the  Capitol  was  be- 
sieged by  20,000  people,  crazy  with  excitement,  demanding 
that  the  resignation  should  not  be  accepted.  The  Congress 
was  forced  to  abandon  its  session.  Mass  meetings  were 
held  in  the  plazas  and  the  streets,  which  were  addressed  by 
popular  orators,  and  all  uttered  the  same  sentiments.  Every- 
body believed  that  the  president  had  resigned  in  compli- 
ance with  the  demands  of  the  Dictator  in  Paris,  and  de- 
manded that  the  resignation  be  withdrawn.  The  executive 
mansion  was  surrounded  all  day  by  thousands  of  people 
calling  for  Rojas-Paul,  but  the  great  doors  were  closed  and 
protected  by  a regiment  of  soldiers,  and  the  blinds  were 
closely  drawn. 

There  is  a statue  of  George  Washington  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city,  standing  in  the  midst  of  a beautiful  park. 
Around  it,  as  if  by  common  consent,  the  populace  gathered 
in  the  evening,  and  almost  every  man  in  Caracas  was  there. 
Addresses  were  delivered  and  a resolution  was  passed,  de- 
claring that  the  meeting  adjourn  to  the  Plaza  Bolivar,  on 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


141 


which  the  president  lives,  and  there  make  a formal  demand 
for  the  withdrawal  of  his  resignation.  He  was  notified  of 
what  had  happened,  and  when  the  crowd  reached  his  house 
was  standing  on  the  balcony  to  receive  them.  The  man 
who  had  presided  at  the  Plaza  "Washington  meeting  made  a 
brief  speech,  and  the  president  replied. 

He  said  he  was  profoundly  moved  by  the  manifestations 
of  the  people,  which  he  assumed  were  intended  as  an  ex- 
pression of  confidence  and  an  approval  of  the  policy  of  his 
administration.  He  had  endeavored  to  perform  his  duties 
without  fear  or  favor,  and  had  been  actuated  only  by  a con- 
scientious desire  to  promote  the  public  welfare.  He  had 
considered  his  duty  to  his  country  higher  than  his  obliga- 
tion to  any  individual  (referring  to  Guzman  Blanco),  and  if 
he  had  failed  or  faltered  or  offended  it  was  due  to  an  error 
of  judgment  rather  than  to  malice  or  intention.  If  his 
administration  had  not  been  satisfactory  he  was  willing  to 
lay  down  the  honors  and  responsibilities  that  had  come  to 
him  unsought,  and  surrender  them  to  a better  and  wiser 
man.  His  resignation,  he  said,  had  been  tendered  to  Con- 
gress in  order  that  the  representatives  of  the  people  might 
pass  judgment  upon  his  official  acts  and  policy;  but  if  it 
were  the  popular  wish,  he  would  withdraw  it  and  continue 
in  the  performance  of  his  official  duties. 

The  next  day  the  Congress  passed  a resolution  expressing 
complete  confidence  in  the  president  and  its  approval  of  his 
policy,  returned  him  his  letter  of  resignation  unaccepted, 
and  adjourned  sine  die,  leaving  much  important  business 
unfinished.  Then  the  people  gave  up  the  day  to  rejoicings 
and  congratulations.  Business  was  entirely  suspended,  all 
the  shops  were  closed,  and  there  was  a flag  floating  from  al- 
most every  building  in  the  town.  The  crowds  in  the  streets 
were  orderly,  but  occasionally  some  one  would  be  heard  to 


142 


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shout,  “ Muerte  al  Guzman  Blanco!"  or  “ Vive  la  Libertad!" 
or  “ Vive  el  Presidente  Rojas-Paul  /” 

Three  members  of  the  cabinet  known  to  be  partisans  of 
Guzman  tendered  their  resignations  on  the  following  day, 
which  were  accepted  at  once,  and  the  appointment  of 
anti-Guzman  leaders  were  announced  in  the  evening  papers. 
The  general  understanding  on  the  part  of  the  people  was 
that  the  president  had  cut  himself  entirely  loose  from  the 
Dictator,  that  the  divorce  was  absolute  and  permanent;  while, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  president  was  assured  that,  whatever 
means  of  revenge  or  resistance  Guzman  might  adopt,  he 
would  receive  the  support  of  the  people. 

As  soon  as  the  events  in  Caracas  became  known  through- 
out the  country  and  the  business  men  of  the  capital  took 
pains  to  inform  their  customers  and  agents  of  their  effect 
and  significance,  there  was  a general  uprising.  Guzman 
Blanco  was  repudiated  and  Rojas-Paul  was  endorsed 
everywhere.  In  some  places  there  were  public  demonstra- 
tions. In  La  Guayra  there  was  a riot  in  which  several 
men  were  killed  and  more  injured.  In  Valencia,  the  second 
city  in  population  and  importance,  there  was  a dignified 
and  orderly  expression  of  the  popular  will  that  the  reign  of 
the  Dictator  had  ended,  and  that  a government  of  the  peo- 
ple had  come  and  must  continue.  The  president  received 
addresses  signed  by  thousands  of  citizens  from  all  parts  of 
the  republic,  as  the  custom  is,  manifesting  their  love  and 
loyalty,  and  the  governors  of  nearly  all  the  states  came  to 
the  capital  personally  to  give  similar  assurances.  The  official 
paper  contained  the  following  announcement  at  the  head  of 
its  columns : 

EXPRESION  DE  GRATITUD. 

El  Presidente  de  la  Republica  agradece  en  alto  grado  y del  modo 
mas  sincero,  las  numerosas  felicitaciones  y expresivos  votos  de  ad- 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


143 


hesion  que  ha  recibido  y continua  recibiendo,  tanto  de  corporaciones  y 
empleados  ofieiales,  corao  de  distintos  gremios  y de  ciudadanos  parti- 
culares,  no  solo  del  Distrito  Federal,  sino  de  los  demas  puntos  de  la 
Republica,  eon  motivo  del  retiro  de  su  renuncia  y del  cumplimiento 
del  programa  de  politica  nacional  que  ha  venido  desarrollando  durante 
su  Administration  ; y siente  sobre  raanera  no  poderlos  contestar  con- 
creta  e individualraente,  por  impedirselo  el  despacho  de  las  arduas 
tareas  administrativas. 

A todos  presenta  la  expresion  ingenua  de  su  inmensa  gratitud. 

[ Translation . — The  president  of  the  republic  begs  to  acknowledge 
in  the  highest  degree  and  the  most  sincere  manner  the  numerous 
felicitations  and  expressive  vows  of  loyalty  which  he  has  received  and 
continues  to  receive  from  all  of  the  corporations,  professions,  and 
tradesmen,  as  well  as  from  organized  bodies  of  particular  citizens,  not 
alone  of  the  federal  district,  but  of  all  other  points  of  the  republic, 
desiring  that  he  should  recall  his  resignation,  and  complimenting  the 
programme  of  national  politics  which  has  been  unfolded  during  his 
administration.  lie  regrets  that  he  is  unable  to  answer  concretely 
and  individually  all  of  them,  but  is  prevented  from  doing  so  by  his 
arduous  administrative  tasks. 

To  all  he  presents  an  ingenuous  expression  of  his  immense  gratitude.] 

The  custom  had  been  for  many  years  to  celebrate  the 
13th  of  June  as  a national  holiday  in  honor  of  Guzman 
Blanco,  for  that  is  the  anniversary  of  Saint  Anthony,  bis 
patron  and  protector,  for  whom  he  was  named.  It  gave 
the  people  an  opportunity  to  sing  bis  praises,  pronounce 
eulogies  upon  bis  character  and  achievements,  read  poetic 
tributes  to  his  greatness,  and  decorate  bis  statues — all  of 
which  was  very  pleasing  to  him.  Although  the  attempt  to 
celebrate  the  27th  of  April  ended  in  a riot,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  carry  out  the  usual  programme  on  Saint  Anthony’s 
Dav,  just  as  if  Guzman  Blanco  was  on  good  terms  with  the 
government,  and  Dr.  Fernando  Avillo,  an  adherent  of  the 
Dictator,  who  had  been  secretary  of  the  interior  for  several 
years,  issued  a proclamation  to  the  governors  of  the  several 


144 


VENEZUELA 


states  to  that  effect.  To  the  usual  formula  be  added  a 
clause  directing  the  use  of  the  police  and  the  army,  if  nec- 
essary, to  prevent  any  interruption  of  the  ceremonies  and 
all  unseemly  demonstrations.  The  Governor  of  Caracas 
promulgated  the  order  with  an  announcement  that  it  would 
be  strictly  enforced. 

This  was  equal  to  shaking  a red  blanket  in  the  face  of 
an  infuriated  bull.  The  newspapers  of  Caracas  and  other 
cities,  which  for  the  first  time  in  a quarter  of  a century 
wrere  allowed  to  print  what  they  pleased,  burst  out  in  the 
most  indignant  manner,  declaring  that  Venezuela  was  done 
with  Guzman  Blanco ; that  the  celebration  of  his  saint’s 
day  was  not  desired  by  the  people  and  w'ould  not  be  per- 
mitted. The  spirit  of  rebellion,  which  is  one  of  the  chief 
characteristics  of  the  people,  was  thoroughly  inflamed  again 
as  it  was  on  the  27th  of  April,  and  President  Rojas-Paul 
revoked  the  decree  of  his  minister. 

The  latter  at  once  resigned,  and  Dr.  Anduesa  Palacio, 
who  had  been  minister  of  public  instruction,  an  anti-Guz- 
man man,  was  promoted  to  fill  the  vacancy.  General  Silva 
Gondolphi,  the  Governor  of  Caracas,  also  resigned,  and 
Santos  Matte  was  appointed  to  his  place.  A new  decree 
was  issued,  announcing  the  abandonment  of  the  proposed 
official  ceremonies  and  declaring  it  to  be  the  privilege  of 
the  people  to  celebrate  the  occasion  in  any  manner  they 
pleased,  provided  there  was  no  violation  of  law  and  no 
attempt  to  injure  public  or  private  property.  In  other 
words,  the  enemies  of  General  Guzman  Blanco  were  given 
full  license  to  indulge  in  manifestations  of  hostility,  pro- 
vided they  did  not  attempt  to  pull  down  his  statues  or 
disfigure  his  house.  This  proclamation  restored  peace  and 
quiet  and  re-established  the  administration  in  the  good 
opinion  of  the  public,  but  it  was  a complete  repudiation  of 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


145 


Guzman  Blanco’s  influence  by  the  government  he  had  con- 
trolled so  long. 

The  day  passed  without  any  demonstration  whatever. 
There  was  a solemn  quietude  about  the  capital,  the  silence 
of  apprehension.  No  attempt  was  made  by  the  adherents 
of  the  dethroned  Dictator  to  glorify  him,  for  the  temper  of 
the  people  was  fully  understood  by  them ; and  when  the 
president’s  last  proclamation  was  issued  there  was  a 
stampede  of  the  leaders  of  the  “ Guzmancista,”  or  Guzman 
party,  from  Caracas.  Many  of  them  sailed  for  Paris,  and 
others  retired  to  their  haciendas  in  the  country  to  avoid 
publicity.  Nor  did  the  opposition  manifest  any  disposi- 
tion to  create  a disturbance.  They  were  satisfied  with  the 
situation  and  willing  to  let  the  anniversary  pass  unobserved. 
The  guards  around  the  statues  and  the  residence  of  the 
Dictator  were  strengthened  as  a precaution,  and  the  mili- 
tary forces  were  under  arms  at  their  barracks  prepared  to 
quell  any  unlawful  uprising.  The  mercantile  houses  re- 
mained open  all  day  as  usual,  but  very  little  business  was 
done,  and  most  of  the  time  was  spent  in  gossiping  about 
the  situation.  There  was  an  apparent  anxiety  on  all  sides 
lest  trouble  might  occur,  which  was  in  itself  a sufficient 
safeguard. 

The  president  attempted  to  renew  communication  with 
Guzman  Blanco,  and  reconcile  him  to  the  situation.  About 
the  middle  of  May  he  sent  a confidential  agent  to  Paris, 
' where  Guzman  still  remained  as  a diplomatic  representative 
of  the  government,  with  instructions  to  make  an  explana- 
tion of  the  causes  and  consequences  of  the  recent  demon- 
strations of  hostility  and  of  the  policy  of  the  administra- 
tion in  regard  to  them.  But  the  indignant  Dictator  refused 
to  see  the  ambassador  of  peace,  and  declined  to  receive 
any  communication  from  him.  The  latter  at  once  cabled 
10 


146 


VENEZUELA 


the  news  of  the  failure  of  his  mission,  and  warned  the  pres- 
ident that  Guzman  had  already  sent  men  to  Venezuela  to 
create  a revolution. 

The  warning  came  none  too  soon.  The  leader  of  the 
movement,  General  Quevado,  who  was  one  of  Guzman’s 
chief  lieutenants  for  several  years,  was  arrested  upon  his 
arrival  and  shipped  back  to  Paris  by  the  first  steamer.  His 
companion  was  shot  in  resisting  arrest. 

The  dethroned  Dictator  made  repeated  attempts  to  inau- 
gurate a revolution  during  the  following  summer,  and  at 
one  time  it  was  reported  that  he  had  left  Paris  for  Venezuela 
to  lead  a movement  in  person ; but  his  adherents  advised 
him  of  the  temper  of  the  people,  and  he  wisely  kept  away. 
He  still  continued  to  keep  his  commission  as  minister  pleni- 
potentiary, and  one  of  his  duties  was  to  arrange  with  Great 
Britain  a settlement  of  the  boundary  dispute  which  has 
since  become  the  cause  of  grave  concern.  In  the  perform- 
ance of  this  mission  he  spent  several  months  in  London 
during  the  summer  of  1889.  There  came  to  Caracas  mys- 
terious rumors  of  treachery.  It  was  soon  after  freely  as- 
serted, and  published  in  the  Venezuelan  newspapers  that 
he  had  made  an  attempt  to  betray  his  country,  and  waive 
the  claims  of  his  government  to  the  disputed  territory  west 
of  the  Essequibo  River  as  far  as  the  so-called  Schomburgk 
line,  provided  Great  Britain  would  arrange  a compromise 
with  the  English  holders  of  certain  Venezuela  bonds. 

No  positive  proof  of  such  a proposition  was  ever  dis- 
closed, so  far  as  the  public  is  aware,  but  the  evidence  was 
sufficient  to  induce  Anduesa  Palacio,  then  president,  to 
revoke  Guzman’s  powers  as  plenipotentiary,  and  to  send 
him  a cablegram  in  which  he  wTas  denounced  as  a traitor  to 
his  country,  and  compared  to  Coriolanus,  the  general  who 
betrayed  Rome.  Guzman  replied  with  an  indignant  denial 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


147 


of  the  charges,  and  published  a pamphlet,  which  he  sent  to 
Venezuela  for  distribution,  reciting  his  proceedings  and  de- 
fending his  course.  Dr.  Saluzzo,  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
answered  him  in  another  pamphlet,  which  was,  however, 
anonymous,  renewing  the  accusations,  and  presenting  some 
circumstantial  evidence  of  treachery,  but  no  direct  proof. 

It  is  generally  believed  that  Guzman  attempted  to  nego- 
tiate a treaty  with  Great  Britain  which  included  commer- 
cial concessions,  a settlement  of  the  boundary  controversy, 
an  adjustment  of  the  public  debt,  and  the  titles  to  certain 
mining  properties  that  were  and  still  are  in  dispute ; but 
the  facts  are  known  only  to  himself  and  the  officials  of  the 
Foreign  Office  in  London. 

Nevertheless,  the  publication  of  the  rumors  and  the  action 
of  the  president  caused  the  greatest  excitement  in  Venezue- 
la, and  completely  destroyed  all  influence  Guzman  had  re- 
tained in  the  country  up  to  that  time.  If  he  had  returned 
to  Caracas,  or  had  attempted  to  land  at  any  part  of  the  re- 
public, he  would  have  been  hanged  by  a mob,  and  it  would 
not  be  safe  for  him  to  visit  Venezuela  to-day,  so  embittered 
are  the  people  against  him. 

The  indignant  populace,  not  being  able  to  reach  the  man 
with  their  vengeance,  took  partial  satisfaction  in  destroy- 
ing his  monuments  and  plundering  his  property,  which  up 
to  that  time  had  been  protected  by  the  police.  During  the 
night  of  Saturday,  October  26th,  1889,  the  students  of  the 
University  marched  to  the  narrow  plaza  between  the  Capitol 
and  the  University  where  his  equestrian  statue  stood,  sawed 
the  bronze  legs  of  the  horse  close  to  the  hoofs,  and  then, 
throwing  a rope  over  the  head  of  the  general,  dragged  the 
effigy  from  its  pedestal.  It  fell  with  a crash  upon  the  pave- 
ment, and  within  a few  moments  was  hacked  and  beaten 
into  a shapeless  mass  of  bronze.  The  head,  which  had  be- 


148 


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como  detached  from  the  body,  was  hoisted  upon  a pole  and 
carried  like  a banner  before  a procession  to  El  Calvario,  a 
beautiful  park  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  in  which  another 
statue  of  the  Dictator  stood.  That  was  also  demolished  in 
a similar  manner. 

The  procession  was  then  reformed,  proceeded  to  the 
residence  of  General  Crespo,  who  had  been  roused  from 
sleep,  and  presented  him  with  the  battered  head  of  his 
enemy.  At  the  unwelcome  offering  Crespo  shrank  with 
horror,  like  Caesar  from  the  head  of  Pompey.  The  rest  of 
the  night  was  spent  by  the  students  tearing  from  other 
statues  and  public  buildings  the  tablets  which  bore  Guz- 
man Blanco’s  detested  name.  Even  the  statue  of  his  father, 
Antonio  Guzman,  was  removed  from  its  pedestal,  dragged 
through  the  streets,  and  thrown  into  the  river,  but  has 
since  been  repaired  and  restored  by  the  government.  Sev- 
eral portraits  of  the  ex-Dietator — some  of  them  expensive 
and  artistic  works  in  oil — were  taken  from  the  public  offices 
and  destroyed,  and  when  morning  dawned  not  a single 
statue,  monument,  or  inscription  remained  to  remind  Cara- 
cas of  his  existence. 

The  city  was  thoroughly  aroused  by  the  shouts  of  the 
students,  and  the  mob  rapidly  increased  to  thousands,  in- 
cluding many  desperate  and  worthless  characters,  who  com- 
pleted the  indignity  and  destruction  by  breaking  into  Guz- 
man’s unoccupied  residence,  looting  it  of  everything  that 
was  valuable,  and  destroying  what  they  did  not  wish  to 
carry  away.  During  the  early  morning  hours  an  attack 
was  also  made  upon  his  country-place  at  Antimino,  a few 
miles  from  Caracas,  but  that  was  saved  by  a company  of 
soldiers  that  occupied  barracks  near  by.  Fragments  of  his 
shattered  monuments,  bits  of  furniture  and  bric-a-brac 
from  his  mansion,  and  other  mementos  of  the  mob’s  work 


THE  DOWNFALL  OF  GUZMAN  BLANCO 


149 


were  afterwards  openly  sold  in  the  shops  and  markets,  and 
were  peddled  in  the  streets. 

That  the  demonstration  was  approved,  or  at  least  per- 
mitted, by  the  government  was  apparent  from  the  fact  that 
the  police  of  Caracas,  who  are  usually  alert  to  suppress 
every  symptom  of  disorder,  stood  idly  by  and  witnessed 
the  pillage  and  destruction  without  offering  to  interfere, 
although  a few  months  before  they  fought  desperately 
against  a similar  mob  organized  for  a similar  purpose.  A 
battalion  of  900  soldiers  lay  sleeping  in  their  barracks 
throughout  the  entire  disturbance,  half  of  them  not  more 
than  three  blocks  distant  from  one  of  the  statues  destroyed, 
and  their  officers  mingled  freely  with  the  mob.  It  was 
alleged  that  some  of  them  assisted  in  the  disorder.  The 
chief  of  police  spent  the  night  at  headquarters,  where  the 
shouts  must  have  been  audible,  and  received  frequent  re- 
ports from  detectives  and  patrolmen  as  to  the  progress  of 
the  mob,  evidently  with  the  intention  to  interfere  in  case 
other  property  than  Guzman’s  was  attacked.  No  official 
report  was  ever  made  concerning  this,  the  most  general  and 
significant  demonstration  that  ever  occurred  in  Caracas.  I 
am  advised  that  the  records  of  the  police  department, 
which  are  usually  voluminous,  and  cover  every  accident  and 
act  of  disorder,  do  not  contain  the  slightest  reference  to  the 
events  of  October  26th,  1889. 

No  arrests  were  made.  No  inquiry  was  instituted.  Pres- 
ident Rojas-Paul  printed  a curious  sort  of  indirect  apology 
and  admonition  in  the  official  gazette  a few  days  later,  in 
which  he  deprecated  “ public  demonstrations  intended  to 
excite  indignation  and  gratify  animosity,”  although  he 
said,  “ where  the  judgment  of  the  people  is  pronounced  it 
is  the  duty  of  the  government  to  accept  it  in  silence.” 
The  leaders  of  the  mob  were  well  known.  Their  names 


150 


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and  their  conduct  were  discussed  at  every  dinner-table  and 
at  every  public  resort  in  Caracas,  although  the  newspapers 
were  scrupulous  in  omitting  them.  They  were  the  sons  of 
the  best  families  in  the  republic.  The  fathers  of  some  of 
them  had  suffered  from  Guzman’s  tyranny,  and  they  en- 
joyed their  revenge. 

That  the  demonstration  was  premeditated  is  manifest, 
because  on  the  same  night  similar  mobs  attacked  the  stat- 
ues of  Guzman  Blanco  in  La  Guayra,  Valencia,  Puerto  Ca- 
bello,  and  Ciudad  Bolivar,  and  destroyed  them  in  a similar 
manner;  and  his  beautiful  plantation  called  “ Guayavita,” 
a few  miles  from  the  city  of  Valencia,  was  plundered.  Not 
only  was  a handsome  villa  demolished,  but  thousands  of 
productive  coffee-trees  were  stripped  of  fruit  and  branches. 

The  government  completed  the  work  of  the  iconoclasts 
by  rechristening  everything  that  bore  Guzman  Blanco’s 
name.  The  state  that  was  once  called  in  his  honor  is  now 
known  as  Miranda.  Parks,  hospitals,  railways,  theatres, 
fortresses,  streets,  boulevards,  mountains,  rivers,  are  no 
longer  known  as  Guzman  Blanco’s,  but  everything  that 
can  remind  the  public  of  his  existence  has  been  erased 
from  the  records  and  the  map. 


CHAPTER  XII 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 

The  people  of  Venezuela  are  very  musical.  There  are 
operatic  performances  at  the  Theatre  Municipal,  formerly 
the  Theatre  Guzman  Blanco,  at  least  twice  a week  'the 
whole  year  round,  sometimes  by  local  performers  and  often 
by  an  imported  company  induced  to  visit  Caracas  under 
a subsidy  from  the  government  which  usually  spends 
$40,000  annually  to  sustain  public  amusements.  There  is 
another  theatre,  a private  enterprise,  offering  second-class 
entertainments. 

The  Theatre  Municipal  was  erected  at  government  ex- 
pense by  the  Dictator,  in  whose  honor  it  was  originally 
named,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  Caracas.  It 
stands  two  blocks  distant  from  the  Capitol,  has  the  form  of 
an  ellipse,  and  is  capable  of  accommodating  2500  people. 
The  parquet,  or  pit,  has  seats  like  those  of  the  theatres  in 
the  IT nited  States,  but  is  occupied  only  by  men.  No  wom- 
an ever  sits  there.  Around  it,  upon  the  ground-floor,  is  a 
dress-circle,  with  ordinary  seats,  which  is  the  fashionable 
place  for  ladies,  and  there  are  three  galleries  divided  into 
commodious  boxes,  seating  four,  six,  and  eight  people. 
Above  them,  under  the  roof,  is  a balcony  for  the  peanut 
gods,  who  take  as  animated  an  interest  in  the  drama  at 
Caracas  as  they  do  in  Chicago  or  New  York.  The  regu- 
lar price  of  admission  with  a reserved  seat,  except  in  the 


1.52 


VENEZUELA 


upper  gallery,  is  one  dollar,  and  the  boxes  are  six,  seven  and 
a half,  and  ten  dollars,  according  to  their  size  and  location. 
In  the  first  gallery,  opposite  the  stage,  is  a large  box  capa- 
ble of  holding  fifteen  or  twenty  persons,  which  is  always  re- 
served for  the  president  and  his  family,  who  are  constant 
attendants,  and  usually  have  a party  with  them. 

Persons  who  are  to  occupy  boxes  go  in  evening  dress, 
but  this  rule  does  not  apply  to  the  seats  in  the  dress-circle 
or  parquet.  On  the  second  and  third  floors  are  spacious 
and  handsomely  decorated  foyers,  where  the  people  prome- 
nade during  the  long  waits  between  the  acts,  and  are  served 
with  helados,  chilces,  wines,  conac,  and  other  refreshments. 
The  performances  are  long,  commencing  at  half-past  eight 
o’clock,  and  continuing  until  midnight  and  sometimes  until 
one  or  two  o’clock  in  the  morning. 

There  is  a good  deal  of  native  artistic  talent  in  Venezuela, 
both  in  the  composition  and  in  the  execution  of  music. 
Original  operas  are  frequently  given,  and  original  songs  and 
instrumental  compositions  are  published  in  large  numbers. 
There  are  several  conservatories  of  music,  and  in  nearly 
every  house  is  a piano,  which  is  used  abundant]}7,  as  any  one 
who  has  tramped  the  streets  can  testify.  The  residence 
quarter  of  the  city,  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  except  those  de- 
voted to  the  siesta,  reminds  you  of  the  corridors  of  a ladies’ 
seminary,  for  through  the  open  windows  of  nearly  every 
house  come  unmistakable  sounds  of  diligent  and  energetic 
practising. 

On  Thursday  and  Sunday  nights  the  national  band  at- 
tached to  the  headquarters  of  the  army  plays  in  the  Plaza 
Bolivar  from  half-past  eight  until  eleven  o’clock,  and  draws 
a crowd  of  citizens  who  promenade  the  brilliantly  lighted 
walks  or  sit  in  circles  chatting.  Old  women  are  there  with 
chairs  that  can  be  hired  for  a few  coppers,  and  shrill-voiced 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 


153 


boys  peddle  beer,  iced  drinks,  lielados,  confectionery,  and 
other  refreshments  between  the  numbers.  Here  on  these 
luenos  noches,  as  they  are  called,  the  fashionable  people 
gather  in  full  force,  the  old  to  gossip  and  the  young  to  flirt. 

Another  place  of  resort  which  is  largely  patronized,  El 
I’uente  Ilierro,  being  the  terminus  of  one  of  the  fashionable 
drives  of  the  city,  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Guiare,  at  the 
base  of  the  mountains  that  close  in  the  valley  of  Caracas 
from  the  south.  Here  is  an  iron  bridge  “ erected  under 
the  administration  of  the  Illustrious  American,  General  An- 
tonio Guzman  Blanco,”  a procession  of  stately  palms,  a sub- 
urban railway  station,  a grove  of  mango-trees,  several  more 
or  less  reputable  drinking-places,  and  a lot  of  catch-penny 
shows.  Every  afternoon  from  five  to  seven  there  is  a con- 
siderable crowd,  coming  and  going  in  carriages  and  on 
horseback,  but  on  Saturday  evenings  as  late  as  midnight, 
when  a military  band  furnishes  music,  there  is  a large  as- 
sembly of  the  lower  and  middle  classes,  who  engage  in 
games,  eat,  drink,  and  are  merry.  The  ladies  of  the  aristoc- 
racy sit  in  their  carriages  about  the  grove  and  watch  the 
scenes,  which  are  always  amusing  and  often  hilarious,  while 
the  men  folks,  particularly  the  young  chaps,  mingle  with  the 
throng  and  have  flirtations  with  the  girls  of  the  lower  caste, 
and  there  are  some  very  pretty  ones. 

Caracas  is  a sort  of  one-story  Paris.  The  shops  are  all 
Parisian,  and  sample  bonnets  and  costumes  are  coming 
over  by  every  steamer.  All  the  dress-makers  are  French, 
and  most  of  the  shops  at  which  wearing-apparel  is  sold 
are  kept  by  Frenchmen,  who,  of  course,  buy  their  goods 
at  home.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  find  every  lady 
around  the  table  at  a dinner-party  wearing  an  imported 
costume,  and  when  they  go  out  to  drive  those  who  can 
afford  it  aspire  to  wear  a Paris  bonnet,  like  their  sisters 


154 


VENEZUELA 


and  cousins  and  aunts  in  latitudes  farther  north.  But  no 
one  ever  goes  to  church  to  see  new  dresses  and  new  bon- 
nets. When  they  go  to  mass  in  the  morning,  as  most  of 
them  do,  the  Caracas  ladies  usually  wear  plain  black  dresses, 
with  a black  or  a white  lace  scarf  over  their  heads.  Some 
of  the  old-fashioned  matrons  wear  simply  a black  shawl 
as  a substitute  for  the  Spanish  mantilla. 

The  windows  of  the  houses  are  broad  and  deep,  for  the 
walls  are  two  and  often  three  feet  thick,  and  protected  by 
iron  gratings  or  cages  which  project  six  or  eight  inches 
over  the  sidewalk,  about  breast-high  to  a man  standing 
outside.  Within,  the  window-sills  are  cushioned,  and 
every  afternoon  the  ladies  of  the  household,  particularly 
the  young  and  pretty  ones,  sit  there,  chatting  with  such 
passers-by  as  they  happen  to  know.  On  a pleasant  after- 
noon, if  you  will  stroll  up  the  fashionable  residence  streets, 
you  will  find  every  window  occupied  by  one  or  more  ladies 
arrayed  in  their  most  attractive  costumes,  and  a good  deal 
of  love-making  and  courting  is  carried  on  in  this  way. 
Young  Salvador,  when  his  duties  at  the  office  or  the  store 
are  over,  invariably  takes  a route  homeward  that  will  bring 
him  past  the  residence  of  his  sweetheart  Trinidad,  and 
enjoys  a chat  with  her,  and  a pressure  of  her  hand  through 
the  iron  bars. 

The  principal  dress-making  establishment  in  town  has 
a sign  that  attracts  attention,  being  a mixture  of  English, 
French,  and  Spanish  : 

“ High  Life  Parisien  Salon  para  Modes  y Confections.” 

There  is  another  shop,  a variety  store,  nearly  opposite, 
called  “El  Arc  de  Noe”  (Noah’s  Ark).  It  is  a custom  to 
give  fancy  names  to  stores  and  factories  as  well  as  to  plan- 
tations and  country  residences.  There  is  one  called  “ The 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 


155 


Rose  of  Sharon,”  but  I was  not  able  to  find  a Lily  of  the 
Valley.  “La  Esmeralda”  is  an  attractive  shopping-place. 
“The  Fountain  of  Gladness”  and  “The  Grace  of  God” 
are  signs  I saw  over  pulperias,  or  drinking-saloons  ; “ The 
Pearl  of  Venezuela  ” and  “ The  Pearl  of  the  Continent  ” 
are  well-known  resorts;  and  I once  saw  a grocery  called 
“ Mo  me  olbides”  (Forget-me-not). 

It  is  a common  thing  to  christen  children  after  the  Sav- 
iour and  the  saints.  They  are  usually  given  the  names  of 
those  whose  anniversaries  are  nearest  the  day  of  their  birth, 
and  every  boy  born  in  the  neighborhood  of  Christmas  Day 
is  called  Jesus.  Sometimes  he  is  Jesu  Christo,  or  Jesu 
Maria,  or  Jesu  Salvador  (Saviour).  Crucero  (cross)  is  a name 
often  given  to  boys  born  on  Good  Friday,  while  Salvador  is 
very  common.  It  does  not  sound  so  blasphemous  in  Span- 
ish, but  it  would  scarcely  be  allowable  in  the  United  States 
for  a woman  to  poke  her  head  out  of  a door  and  yell  “ Jesus 
Saviour!”  when  she  wants  a servant,  just  as  she  would  call 
for  John  Henry  or  Bridget.  The  girls  are  named  after 
events  in  the  lives  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  the  saints — 
Concepcion,  Annunciacion,  Asuncion,  Trinidad,  and  so  on. 

Every  child  has  a godfather,  called  a “ Padrino,”  and  a 
godmother,  called  a “ Madrina,”  who  are  expected  to  fulfil 
literally  the  vows  made  at  the  baptismal  font,  and  usually 
do  so.  And  in  return  there  is  a reverential  feeling  among 
the  young  towards  their  sponsors.  When  a father  dies  the 
godfather  of  his  children  is  usually  selected  as  their  guar- 
dian, and  when  a young  man  or  a young  lady  is  in  trouble 
they  are  quite  as  apt  to  consult  and  confide  in  their  god- 
father and  godmother  as  their  natural  parents.  And  the 
Padrino  is  not  only  expected  to  look  after  the  spiritual 
welfare  of  his  godchild,  but  its  temporal  welfare  also.  Rich 
men  and  prominent  politicians  are  therefore  much  sought 


156 


VENEZUELA 


after  by  their  ambitious  and  impecunious  friends  ; but  they 
usually  limit  their  favors  to  relatives  and  persons  for  whom 
they  feel  an  especial  interest. 

While  the  color  line  is  not  entirely  obliterated  in  Vene- 
zuela society,  it  is  not  so  strictly  drawn  as  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  fact  that  a man  has  negro  blood  in  his  veins 
does  not  debar  him  from  either  social,  professional,  or  polit- 
ical honors.  General  Joaquin  Crespo,  president  of  the  re- 
public, and  his  wife  are  of  mixed  Spanish  and  Indian  blood, 
and  she  is  a very  intelligent  and  estimable  woman,  by-the- 
way.  And  the  amalgamation  of  races  is  not  unusual  among 
the  lower  classes.  It  is  a common  thing  to  see  a white 
woman  with  an  octoroon,  or  even  a mulatto,  for  a husband, 
and  even  more  common  to  see  a white  husband  with  a tinted 
Venus  for  a wife.  At  public  balls,  at  the  hotels,  and  other 
places  of  resort,  in  political,  commercial,  and  social  gather- 
ings, the  three  races — Spanish,  Indian,  and  Negro — and  the 
mixed  bloods,  mingle  without  distinction.  It  is  an  ordinary 
sight  to  find  black  and  white  faces  side  by  side  at  the 
dining  - tables  of  the  hotels  and  restaurants,  and  in  the 
schools  and  colleges  the  color  of  a child  makes  no  difference 
in  his  standing  or  treatment.  Some  of  the  most  accom- 
plished scholars  in  the  country,  some  of  the  most  eminent 
lawyers  and  jurists,  are  of  negro  blood;  and  in  the  clergy 
no  race  distinction  is  recognized.  I have  seen  a colored 
theological  student — and  one  can  always  be  detected  by 
the  long,  black  frock  and  shovel-hat  he  wears — walking  arm 
in  arm  with  a white  comrade,  and  in  the  assignment  of 
priests  among  the  parishes  the  bishop  never  thinks  of  race 
prejudice.  The  present  bishop  is  reputed  to  have  both 
Indian  and  negro  blood  in  his  veins.  A Sunday  morning  I 
dropped  in  upon  a congregation  of  worshippers  in  one  of 
the  fashionable  churches,  and  found  a negro  priest  singing 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 


157 


mass.  I could  not  distinguish  a single  colored  person  in 
the  congregation,  and  all  the  attending  acolytes  were  white. 
Some  of  the  wealthiest  planters  in  the  country  are  full- 
blooded  negroes,  but  they  are  not  often  found  in  trade. 
This  is  probably  because  most  of  the  merchants  are  for- 
eigners. The  natives  are  commonly  engaged  in  agriculture 
and  the  professions. 

The  Venezuelans  anticipated  us  by  more  than  ten  years 
in  the  emancipation  of  their  slaves,  and  if  Simon  Bolivar 
had  been  permitted  to  rule  over  the  country  slavery  would 
have  been  abolished  soon  after  the  war  of  independence, 
lie  was  an  abolitionist  in  practice  as  well  as  in  theory,  for 
when,  after  the  independence  of  Peru,  he  was  presented 
with  a million  dollars  as  a testimonial  from  the  citizens  of 
that  republic,  he  showed  how  truly  great  he  was  by  using 
it  to  purchase  the  liberty  of  a thousand  slaves,  and  in  a 
famous  message  to  the  people  of  Colombia  said  : 

“ There  must  be  no  caste  on  this  continent.  There  is  no 
blood  less  noble  than  other  blood.  All  is  the  same  in  the 
sight  of  God.  All  are  heroes  who  enter  the  camps  of  the 
battalions  of  liberty,  and  all  are  equally  entitled  to  the  just 
recompense  of  valor,  of  honor,  of  intelligence,  of  sacrifice, 
and  of  virtue.” 

The  decree  of  emancipation  was  issued  on  the  24th  of 
March,  1854,  by  President  Jose  Gregorio  Monagas,  and  the 
equal  rights  of  all  were  at  the  same  time  declared.  But  by 
the  strange  irony  of  fate  the  man  who  conferred  this  boon 
of  liberty  upon  several  hundred  thousand  bondmen  spent 
the  last  months  of  his  life  in  a dungeon — a political  pris- 
oner. General  Guzman  Blanco,  who  embellished  the  city 
of  Caracas  with  statues  of  all  the  famous  men  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  republic — except  General  Paez,  whom  he  has 
never  forgiven  for  sentencing  his  father,  Antonio  Guzman, 


158 


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to  death — erected  one,  a bronze  figure  upon  a granite  ped- 
estal, to  the  memory  of  the  Emancipator.  It  stands  in  the 
plaza  before  the  Church  of  the  Candaleria,  and  in  the  in- 
scription all  reference  to  the  actual  fate  of  this  friend  of 
liberty  is  carefully  avoided,  for  it  reads: 

El  General 

Jose  Gregorio  Monagas 
Liberador  de  los  en  slavos  en 
Venezuela. 

Born  in  Maturin  P795  ; died  in  Maracaibo  1858. 

His  remains  were  translated  to  Caracas  and  deposited  in  the  Pantheon. 
The  Illustrious  American 
General  Antonio  Guzman  Blanco 
erected  this  monument. 

This  was  Guzman’s  way.  In  honoring  others  he  honored 
himself, literally.  He  permitted  no  inference;  he  allowed  no 
one  to  ask  “ Who  raised  this  statue,  or  placed  this  monu- 
ment here?”  Wherever  he  made  an  improvement,  be  it 
even  a bridge  or  an  iron  fence  or  a lamp-post,  there  was 
an  announcement  telling  when  and  by  whom  it  was  done, 
and  upon  all  the  numerous  monuments  he  erected  in  the 
city  to  commemorate  notable  events  or  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  notable  men  the  name  of  “ The  Illustrious 
American”  appears  in  letters  of  the  largest  size  used  in 
the  inscription.  All  the  churches  and  public  buildings 
that  were  erected  or  repaired  are  inscribed  in  a similar 
manner,  and  there  was  not  a visible  result  of  his  enter- 
prise or  his  expenditure  of  the  public  money  that  did  not 
bear  testimony  thereof  on  a marble  tablet. 

A monument  to  General  Falcon,  who  held  his  authority 
for  several  years  by  mere  force  of  arms,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  General  Guzman  Blanco,  stands  in  the  plaza  before 
the  Church  of  the  Blessed  Lady  of  Mercy.  He,  like  most 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 


159 


of  the  famous  men  of  the  republic,  died  abroad,  at  the  town 
Fort-of-France,  in  the  island  of  Martinique,  in  1870,  the  year 
Guzman  came  into  power.  The  latter  had  his  remains 
brought  to  Caracas  and  buried  in  the  Pantheon  two  years 
later,  when  this  statue  was  raised  in  his  honor,  and  like 
all  others  it  bears  testimony  to  its  origin,  for  the  inscrip- 
tion reads: 

The  Illustrious  American, 

General  Antonio  Guzman  Blanco, 

President  of  the  Republic, 

Erected  this  monument  to 
FALCON, 

The  Great  Citizen  Marshal, 

Founder  of  the  Federation. 

Returning  again  to  the  negroes,  it  may  be  said  that  they 
possess  a greater  intelligence,  industry,  and  ambition,  a 
higher  degree  of  education,  and  a better  social  and  com- 
mercial position  than  the  natives  of  Indian  descent.  The 
latter  appear  to  be  doomed  to  perpetual  peonage.  While 
the  laws  of  peonage  have  never  existed  in  Venezuela,  the 
relation  between  the  planter  and  his  laborers,  particularly 
in  the  interior  of  the  country,  is  equivalent  to  this  form 
of  slavery,  and  it  is  tolerated  by  both  classes  as  the  natural 
consequence  of  the  difference  in  their  wealth  and  social 
position.  There  are  several  distinct  classes,  or  castes,  in 
the  population.  First,  the  aboriginal  Indians ; then  the 
whites,  or  creoles,  the  descendants  of  the  early  Spanish 
families  ; next  the  mestizoes,  who  are  the  result  of  con- 
tact between  the  Spaniards,  or  creoles,  and  the  aboriginal 
Indians;  next  the  negroes,  who  were  brought  from  Africa 
as  slaves,  or  came  voluntarily  from  the  islands  of  the  West 
Indies ; then  the  mulattoes,  the  mixture  of  negro  and  creole 
blood ; and  finally  the  zambos,  the  offspring  of  the  im- 


160 


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ported  negro  and  the  native  Indian  stock.  The  full- 
blooded  negro,  like  the  full-blooded  Indian,  seldom  rises 
above  the  level  of  the  laborer,  and  the  zambo  is  the  lowest 
of  them  all ; but  the  half-whites  possess  the  intelligence 
and  the  ambition  of  their  Spanish  fathers,  attain  wealth, 
social  position,  and  political  influence.  The  army,  like 
the  laboring  classes,  is  composed  of  Indians,  negroes,  and 
zambos,  while  the  officers  are  either  white  or  have  white 
blood  in  their  veins. 

It  is  not  considered  a disgrace  to  have  mixed  blood  in 
your  veins,  nor  to  be  the  offspring  of  an  illegal  union. 
The  number  of  illegitimate  children  in  the  country  is 
astounding,  and  is  due  to  two  causes : First,  the  excessive 
fees  that  until  recently  were  charged  by  the  priests  for 
performing  the  marriage  ceremony,  which  made  it  im- 
possible for  a poor  man,  a peasant,  to  take  a lawful  wife. 
This  evil  has  been  partially  corrected  by  the  establishment 
of  the  civil  rite  of  marriage,  for  which  a fee  of  fifty  cents 
only  is  charged,  and  the  number  of  illegitimate  births  has 
been  very  largely  reduced,  although  in  three  years,  accord- 
ing to  the  official  census,  the  number  of  legitimate  births 
in  Caracas  was  3848,  while  the  number  of  illegitimate 
was  3753,  not  quite  one-half  of  the  whole.  In  the  country 
districts  the  proportion  of  illegitimate  children  is  even 
greater.  Second,  among  the  middle  and  upper  classes  the 
custom  of  keeping  mistresses  of  a lower  caste  is  almost  uni- 
versal, and  is  not  even  a cause  for  gossip.  It  is  the  expect- 
ed and  natural  thing  not  only  for  a bachelor  to  have  a mis- 
tress and  a family  of  children,  but  married  men  who  can 
afford  it  usually  maintain  two  establishments,  and  the  oc- 
cupants of  both  appear  to  have  knowledge  of  each  other. 

The  laboring  classes,  the  negroes,  Indians,  and  zambos, 
are  honest,  obedient,  industrious,  and  good-humored,  but 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 


161 


they  are  not  as  energetic  as  men  of  equal  strength  in  the 
temperate  zones,  and  do  not  accomplish  more  than  one-third 
as  much  in  the  same  amount  of  time.  The  climate  is  ener- 
vating, and  they  are  averse  both  to  hard  labor  and  to  the 
use  of  time-saving  and  labor-saving  implements.  Nor  are 
they  ingenious  in  their  methods.  They  insist  upon  doing 
everything  in  the  most  difficult  and  clumsy  way. 

I stood  one  morning  and  watched  a party  of  peons 
moving  a large  water  or  sewer  pipe.  It  had  been  brought 
from  some  warehouse  to  this  point  on  the  street  upon  the 
back  of  a donkey,  and,  being  insecurely  fastened,  had  fallen 
off  not  more  than  two-thirds  of  a block  from  its  destination. 
An  Irishman  or  a Yankee  would  have  rolled  it  down  the 
road  to  the  place  where  it  was  needed,  but  half  a dozen 
men  were  called  from  the  ditch  they  were  digging  to  assist 
in  strapping  it  upon  that  donkey’s  back  again.  The  opera- 
tion absorbed  the  entire  attention  of  half  a dozen  men  for 
twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Then  the  donkey  was  driv- 
en along  a few  rods  and  the  pipe  unloaded  again. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 

Strangers  are  always  received  with  the  greatest  courtesy 
in  Venezuela,  and  those  who  bring  letters  of  introduction 
find  no  trouble  in  securing  a warm  welcome  to  the  homes 
of  the  best  people.  But  one  without  letters  will  find  it  dif- 
ficult to  enter  society,  because  of  the  number  of  adventur- 
ers that  go  to  Venezuela,  as  well  as  to  other  countries  in 
South  America,  not  only  from  the  United  States,  but  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  There  is  a prevailing  impression 
that  the  South  American  republics  are  populated  with  a 
half-civilized  race  of  people,  and  men  who  have  lost  caste 
at  home  go  there  to  recoup ; but  they  soon  find  that  it  is  a 
mistake  to  do  so.  There  are  no  cities  in  the  world  where 
the  character  and  the  conduct  of  a stranger,  his  costume 
and  his  manners,  are  scrutinized  and  criticised  more  se- 
verely than  in  Caracas,  and  before  admitting  one  to  the 
sanctity  of  his  home  a Caraquanian  wants  to  know  all 
about  him. 

And  it  is  so  to  a certain  extent  in  business  matters.  The 
merchants  will  of  course  sell  to  any  customer  who  calls, 
but  they  will  not  buy  from  one  they  do  not  know.  lie 
will  be  treated  courteously  enough,  and  will  hear  all  sorts 
of  polite  expressions,  but  they  do  not  mean  anything. 
Nearly  every  man  you  meet  will  present  you  with  his 
house  and  all  the  remainder  of  his  property,  but  it  is  sim- 


SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 


103 


ply  a conventional  form  of  politeness.  If  an  entire  stran- 
ger should  call  at  the  residence  of  a business  man  without 
I a letter  of  introduction  he  would,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten, 
be  asked  to  repeat  his  visit  at  the  office  the  next  day,  and 
be  sent  off  without  any  further  satisfaction. 

But,  as  I have  said,  if  a stranger  comes  properly  intro- 
duced, he  is  overwhelmed  with  genuine  hospitality,  and 
made  to  feel  at  home  not  only  at  the  residence  and  at  the 
club  of  the  gentleman  to  whom  he  is  introduced,  but 
among  all  his  friends.  A letter  of  introduction  means 
more  in  Spanish  America  than  it  does  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  a certificate  of  good  character  and  social  standing,  an 
assurance  that  the  bearer  is  worthy  of  confidence,  and  a 
draft  upon  the  hospitality  of  him  to  w hom  it  is  addressed. 

The  old  families  of  the  republic,  those  of  Spanish  de- 
scent, are  severe  in  their  notions  of  propriety,  and  insist 
upon  the  observance  of  forms  and  ceremonies.  They 
would  sooner  die  than  violate  the  laws  of  etiquette,  and 
they  expect  the  same  conscientiousness  from  others.  They 
are  largely  intermarried,  too,  and  prejudice  as  well  as 
preference  spreads  rapidly.  A sort  of  social  freemasonry 
exists  among  them,  and  the  recognition  of  a stranger  by 
one  family  is  certain  to  win  for  him  the  confidence  and 
attention  of  all  its  connections  and  acquaintances. 

Very  few  of  the  old  families  are  involved  in  politics. 
They  confine  their  attention  to  agriculture,  to  their  coffee 
and  sugar  and  cocoa  plantations,  and  sometimes  to  trade. 
They  seek  the  learned  professions  also,  but  are  usually 
careful  to  keep  their  political  convictions  to  themselves, 
and  avoid  commenting  upon  the  actions  of  the  government. 
Politics  is  a distinct  occupation,  and  it  is  either  very  prof- 
itable or  unprofitable.  One  of  the  chief  objects  of  the 
revolutionary  leaders  in  the  past  has  been  to  get  hold  of 


164 


VENEZUELA 


the  treasury  for  the  purpose  of  plundering  it  for  the  bene- 
fit of  themselves  and  their  adherents.  The  president  has 
absolute  control  of  the  finances.  He  can  make  contracts 
for  useful  or  for  useless  purposes  at  will,  and  by  writing 
an  order  on  the  treasury  can  at  any  time  draw  out  all  the 
money  in  the  vaults.  Of  course  his  concessions  are  nomi- 
nally approved  by  Congress  and  his  expenditures  are  re- 
ported in  the  budget,  but  they  are  explained  in  a plausible 
way,  and  critics  understand  that  it  is  not  considered  good 
policy  to  look  too  closely  into  the  whys  and  wherefores  of 
the  acts  of  the  executive. 

When  a political  leader  comes  into  power  he  appoints 
his  adherents  to  the  prominent  offices  at  Caracas,  makes 
them  governors  of  states  and  collectors  of  customs,  and 
when  the  offices  are  all  given  out  grants  them  concessions 
for  one  thing  and  another  by  which  they  are  enabled  to 
make  a competence.  And  these  subordinates,  understand- 
ing that  they  can  hold  office  only  a few  years,  and  are 
likely  to  be  thrown  out  by  a jironunciamento  at  any 
time,  make  hay  while  the  sun  shines,  and  get  rich  as  rap- 
idly as  they  can  without  regard  to  means  or  methods. 
This  accounts  for  the  petty  little  exactions  that  are  im- 
posed upon  vessels  and  shippers  at  the  ports,  as  the  fines 
and  penalties  collected  are  the  perquisites  of  the  officials. 
But  there  has  been  a great  improvement  in  Venezuela  in 
this  respect  in  recent  years. 

But  some  queer  things  were  done  in  the  old  times.  A 
contract  was  once  let  for  laying  cement  sidewalks  all  over 
the  city  at  the  expense  of  the  government.  General  Guz- 
man Blanco,  who  was  then  president,  gave  as  a concession  to 
his  brother-in-law  the  exclusive  right  of  importing  cement, 
which  is  not  produced  in  the  country.  This  favored  rela- 
tive was  the  only  person  from  whom  it  could  be  pur- 


SOCIETY  IN'  CARACAS 


165 


chased,  and  the  government  had  to  pay  him  whatever  price 
he  chose  to  charge.  Therefore  every  barrel  of  cement 
that  was  used  in  laying  the  sidewalks  brought  a profit  of 
five  or  six  dollars  into  his  pocket,  and  made  him  rich. 

At  another  time  Guzman  granted  to  a friend  and  favor- 
ite the  exclusive  privilege  of  carrying  merchandise  to  and 
from  the  custom-houses.  Every  package  imported  had  to 
be  opened  and  examined  at  the  custom-houses,  and  not 
on  the  docks,  as  had  previously  been  done,  and  no  im- 
porter was  allowed  to  handle  his  own  goods.  They  must 
be  carted  from  the  docks  to  the  custom  - house,  and  then, 
after  examination,  delivered  at  their  destination  by  Guz- 
man’s friend,  and  he  was  permitted  to  regulate  his  own 
charges.  Of  course  this  tax  ultimately  came  out  of  the 
pockets  of  the  public  in  the  increased  cost  of  the  mer- 
chandise, but  it  was  as  good  as  a gold  mine  to  the  man 
who  collected  it,  and  he  had  no  occasion  for  personal  ex- 
ertion, as  he  sublet  the  business  in  the  several  towns  of 
the  republic  and  sat  down  in  Caracas  to  enjoy  himself. 

On  the  side  of  the  hill  El  Calvario  stands  a yellow 
church,  far  away  from  everything  else,  and  almost  inac- 
cessible. Every  one  utters  an  exclamation  of  surprise  when 
lie  first  sees  it,  and  inquires  why  a church  was  ever  erected 
iu  such  a place.  This  is  the  story  : When  General  Crespo 
was  an  ordinary  citizen,  but  possessed  of  the  ordinary  am- 
bition, his  pious  wife  made  a vow  that  if  he  was  ever 
elevated  to  the  presidency  she  would  erect  a handsome 
chapel  in  honor  of  her  patron  saint,  the  Blessed  Virgin 
of  Lourdes.  It  was  rather  more  by  the  favor  of  Guzman 
Blanco  than  through  the  intercession  of  the  saint  that 
Crespo  finally  reached  that  exalted  office,  but  his  good  wife 
determined  to  carry  out  the  vow.  Here  the  husband  in- 
terfered, and  determined  that  the  work  should  be  done  at 


166 


VENEZUELA 


tlie  expense  of  the  government,  inasmuch  as  the  people  at 
large,  the  tax -payers,  received  quite  as  much  honor  and 
benefit  from  his  election  as  the  members  of  his  own  fam- 
ily. Hence  a contract  was  made  with  a friend  of  the 
president’s  to  erect  the  chapel,  and  he  is  said  to  have  done 
very  well  under  it.  Then,  when  the  church  was  done,  it 
was  discovered  that  it  was  situated  on  a hill  that  could  not 
be  reached  easily,  and  it  was  necessary  to  erect  a viaduct 
across  the  valley  from  the  steps  of  the  church  to  the  hill 
on  the  other  side.  That  was  contracted  for  with  another 
of  Crespo’s  friends  for  8160,000,  and  is  said  to  have  cost 
exactly  half  that  amount.  Thus  the  government  afforded 
the  people  a new  church  and  a fine  iron  viaduct  by  which 
to  reach  it,  all  at  the  expense  of  the  tax -payers.  There 
was  no  pressing  need  of  another  place  of  worship,  as  the 
town  is  full  of  them,  with  accommodations  sufficient  for 
double  the  population  of  Caracas,  and  service  has  seldom 
been  held  there ; but  the  vow  of  Crespo’s  wife  was  ful- 
filled, and  two  of  his  friends  were  enabled  to  make  small 
fortunes  without  any  labor. 

Crespo  has  one  of  the  finest  coffee  plantations  in  the 
valley  of  Caracas,  from  which  he  derives  a good  income. 
These  estates,  or  estancias,  as  they  are  called,  all  have 
poetic  names,  in  which  the  imagination  or  the  taste  of  the 
owner  shows  itself.  Some  are  called  in  honor  of  famous 
characters  in  history,  others  in  commemoration  of  notable 
events.  A name  is  drawn  from  fiction  or  from  poetry,  or 
some  favorite  member  of  the  family  is  distinguished  by 
having  a plantation  christened  in  his,  but  more  generally 
in  her,  honor. 

There  is  a little  romance  of  a young  man,  and  a young 
woman,  of  course,  who  wanted  to  get  married  some  years 
ago  down  in  the  Carabobo  district,  but  were  kept  apart  by 


SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 


167 


cruel  and  relentless  parents.  The  young  man  had  nothing 
but  an  unproductive  coffee  estate  that  had  gone  to  ruin  by 
the  negligence  of  his  father,  a prominent  local  politician, 
while  there  was  a rival  with  wealth  and  brilliant  prospects. 
The  girl  loved  the  poor  young  man,  but,  according  to  the 
laws  that  govern  such  cases,  married  the  other. 

The  disappointed  one  retired  to  his  plantation,  christened 
it  in  honor  of  his  rival’s  bride,  and  commenced  to  fix  up  his 
fences,  trim  his  coffee -trees,  and  clear  out  his  irrigating 
ditches.  It  produced  abundantly,  even  during  the  seasons 
when  everybody  else  had  poor  crops,  and  he  sent  to  mar- 
ket thousands  of  quintals  of  the  best  berries  in  the  market, 
each  bearing  the  name  of  the  girl  who  had  jilted  him.  It 
was  not  lono;  before  he  was  one  of  the  wealthiest  men  in 
the  community,  and  the  product  of  his  plantation  is  hard 
sought  by  all  the  buyers  of  the  big  European  houses. 

As  a matter  of  course,  the  rival  and  the  faithless  woman 
ought  to  have  had  all  sorts  of  bad-fortune  ; but  they  did 
not,  so  far  as  I can  learn,  and  lived  along  pleasantly,  hav- 
ing a lot  of  children,  and  passed  the  aimless,  indolent  lives 
that  most  of  these  people  do.  She  got  fat,  and  spent  her 
days  fanning  herself  in  a rocking-chair,  wearing  a loose 
white  wrapper,  and  eating  dulces  and  screaming  at  the 
children  ; he  wore  a suit  of  white  duck,  a panama  hat, 
sharp -pointed  patent-leather  boots  with  high  heels,  and 
smoked  cigarettes  at  the  club. 

But  there  is  a moral  to  the  story,  nevertheless,  and  it  is 
this : when  disappointed  in  love,  a young  man  should  get 
a coffee  plantation,  name  it  after  the  girl  who  jilted  him, 
and  go  to  work. 

Wh  en  you  call  upon  the  genuine,  unadulterated  native, 
whose  manners  and  habits  have  not  been  modified  by  con- 
tact with  the  foreign  residents  or  travel  in  other  parts  of 


168 


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the  world,  you  are  received  with  stately  and  impressive 
formality.  He  greets  you  at  the  entrance  with  a cordial 
hand,  and,  bidding  you  welcome,  places  his  house  and  all 
it  contains  “at  your  disposal.”  Then  he  ushers  you  into 
an  immense  drawing-room,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered 
with  large  mirrors,  and  portraits  of  his  family,  living  and 
dead.  There  are  large  bunches  of  wax  flowers  under  glass 
globes  on  the  table  and  piano,  and  immense  pink  shells 
lying  about  in  conspicuous  places  upon  the  floor.  The 
furniture  is  heavy  and  handsome,  and  covered  with  linen 
to  keep  off  the  dust.  Instead  of  a carpet,  india-matting 
covers  the  floor.  He  conducts  you  to  the  sofa  at  the  end 
of  the  room  with  great  ceremony,  for  that  is  the  seat  of 
honor,  and  the  two  rows  of  chairs  standing  at  right  angles 
are  occupied  by  himself  and  the  members  of  the  family, 
who  drop  in  one  after  another,  and  go  through  the  forms 
of  introduction  or  greeting  with  languid  effusiveness.  The 
conversation  is  that  of  compliment,  and  it  takes  a good 
deal  of  time  to  ask  after  the  health  of  each  person  present 
and  those  who  have  not  shown  themselves.  If  you  at- 
tempt to  talk  business  it  is  evaded  in  a courteous  manner, 
for  the  genuine  native  will  not  permit  himself  to  engage  in 
anything  but  social  hospitality  when  a stranger  is  within 
his  doors.  That  is  one  of  the  unwritten  laws  of  the  an- 
cient etiquette,  and  he  will  walk  miles  to  meet  you  the  next 
day  rather  than  have  it  violated.  And  it  is  a good  rule, 
too,  although  its  enforcement  often  causes  chagrin  to  the 
“hustling”  Yankees  who  go  to  those  parts. 

Social  life  in  Caracas  is  very  much  like  what  it  is  in  the 
continental  cities  of  Europe.  Within  the  last  fifteen  years 
a great  many  foreigners  have  gone  there  to  permanently 
settle  and  engage  in  business,  until  they  now  number  near- 
ly seven  thousand,  or  about  sixteen  per  cent,  of  the  popula- 


SOCIETY  IX  CARACAS 


169 


tion.  The  natives  of  the  upper  classes  have  been  travel- 
ling a great  deal,  too,  have  spent  much  time  in  North 
America  and  Europe,  and  have  imbibed  many  healthy  ideas 
of  modern  civilization.  Then,  again,  many  of  the  young 
men  have  been  sent  to  the  colleges  of  England  and  the 
United  States  to  be  educated — have  studied  dentistry  in 
Philadelphia,  surgery  in  Vienna,  engineering  in  Germany, 
and  other  sciences  in  France.  They  have  married  in  those 
cities,  and  brought  home  wives  of  culture  and  wholesome 
influence,  who  have  done  much  to  enlarge  the  privileges 
of  their  sex  and  break  down  the  old  restrictions. 

Thus  the  rigid  customs  of  the  ancient  Spanish  aristocracy 
have  gradually  been  modified,  and  modern  forms  and  cus- 
toms adopted.  A few  years  ago  it  was  considered  highly 
improper  to  visit  the  ladies  of  a family  except  in  the  pres- 
ence of  their  husbands  or  fathers;  in  fact,  any  lady  who 
received  a call  from  a gentleman  friend,  or  was  known  to 
be  alone  with  him,  forfeited  her  reputation.  But  nothing 
is  thought  of  that  now.  It  is  expected  that  gentlemen 
will  visit  the  wives  and  the  daughters  of  their  friends,  and 
as  it  is  not  convenient  for  them  to  do  so  on  business  days, 
they  take  Sunday  afternoon  for  it,  when  the  ladies  always 
stay  at  home  to  receive  them. 

Nor  is  it  considered  any  longer  improper  for  a miss  or 
a matron  to  receive  gentlemen  callers  alone.  If  a young 
man  wants  to  visit  a young  lady  he  does  not  ask  for  her 
father,  as  he  used  to  do,  and  see  her  only  in  his  presence, 
or  with  some  duenna  sitting  by,  but  he  sends  his  card 
directly  to  the  girl,  and  she  comes  into  the  parlor  to  re- 
ceive him,  just  as  her  sisters  in  the  United  States  are  in 
the  habit  of  doing.  If  he  asks  for  the  mother  or  any  other 
member  of  the  family,  well  and  good.  They  come  into 
the  parlor  if  they  are  not  otherwise  engaged,  but  are  not 


170 


VENEZUELA 


required  to  do  so,  and  do  not  intrude  unless  they  are  called 
for.  It  used  to  be  necessary  for  a young  man  to  make 
love  through  his  father,  but  he  takes  matters  into  his  own 
hands  nowadays,  and  “sits  up”  with  his  sweetheart,  just 
as  they  do  in  Massachusetts  or  Illinois. 

It  is  not  considered  proper  for  a young  lady  to  attend 
the  theatre  or  other  places  of  public  amusement,  nor  to  go 
to  balls  or  parties  without  a chaperon,  but  she  can  walk 
alone  on  the  street  in  the  daytime,  can  promenade  with  her 
lover,  can  take  him  shopping  with  her,  and  might  eat  ice- 
cream if  there  was  an  opportunity  to  do  so,  but  there  isn’t. 

There  is  a place  in  Caracas  where  you  can  take  a young 
lady  to  drink  a glass  of  “ leemonoddie,”  as  they  pronounce 
it,  a sort  of  cross  between  soda  - water  and  lemonade — a 
bottle  of  carbonated  water  flavored  with  the  essence  of 
lemon — and  you  can  buy  English  soda  and  Apollinaris 
water,  but  it  is  usually  stale  and  warm.  You  can  get  some 
stuff  they  call  helaclos,  which  is  the  Spanish  term  for  ice- 
cream, but  it  does  not  taste  like  the  genuine  article,  and  is 
usually  nothing  but  diluted  pineapple  juice  frozen  into  a 
mushy  snow.  It  is  weak  and  insipid,  but  the  natives 
seem  to  like  it,  and  eat  large  quantities.  They  are  so 
fond  of  this  sort  of  thing,  and  spend  so  much  money  in 
gratifying  their  appetites,  that  they  ought  to  have  some- 
tliino-  better,  and  those  who  have  been  in  New  York  and 
have  drank  soda-water  and  eaten  ice-cream  always  talk 
about  it  as  one  of  the  charms  of  North  American  existence. 

The  ladies  of  Caracas  visit  back  and  forth  as  those  of 
the  United  States  do,  and  every  afternoon  the  residence 
streets  are  crowded  with  carriages  of  the  callers.  They 
give  balls  and  dinner-parties,  teas  and  musicales,  and  have 
all  forms  of  fashionable  entertainment.  They  have  picnics 
also,  although  they  are  not  encouraged,  because  the  people, 


SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 


171 


as  a general  thing,  prefer  the  shelter  of  a roof  to  foliage. 
Excursion  parties  to  coffee  quintas  or  plantations  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  city  are  common,  and  now  that  the 
telephone  has  been  generally  adopted  it  is  easy  to  make 
the  arrangements  without  much  trouble.  A favorite  place 
for  excursions  is  the  little  suburb  of  Antimino,  about  six 
miles  from  the  city,  where  the  temperature  is  usually  eight 
or  ten  degrees  cooler,  and  there  are  parks  and  private 
grounds  beautifully  laid  out,  and  embellished  with  tropical 
plants,  flowers,  and  fruits. 

Here  General  Guzman  Blanco  has  a magnificent  mansion, 
which  he  formerly  occupied  several  months  during  the 
year,  and  gave  princely  entertainments.  His  Antimino 
residence  is  admirably  adapted  for  entertaining,  being  a 
large  one-story  structure,  with  wide  balconies  and  porches, 
and  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds,  which  are  illuminated 
by  gas  and  chinesedanterns.  Across  the  street  from  his 
residence  he  laid  out  at  public  expense  a fine  park,  that  can 
also  be  utilized,  and  in  doors  and  out  thousands  of  people 
can  be  confortably  accommodated.  As  there  is  a railway 
to  the  place  from  Caracas  as  well  as  a good  carriage-road, 
there  is  no  difficulty  in  getting  back  and  forth,  and  Guzman 
usually  had  a special  train  for  the  transportation  of  his 
gnests  from  the  city. 

Ilis  town-house  is  situated  not  far  from  the  Capitol,  and 
is  considered  as  elegant  as  any  in  town;  although  the  inte- 
rior is  decorated  a good  deal  like  a Long  Island  Sound 
steamboat,  with  gilded  wood,  “gingerbread  work,”  and 
gay  pictures  of  landscapes  and  domestic  scenes  painted  on 
the  panels  of  the  doors  and  the  walls  of  his  drawing-rooms. 
His  dining-room  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  apartments  I 
ever  entered,  but  is  decorated  with  tawdry  taste  and  a dis- 
play of  gay  china  and  silver  plate  on  buffets  and  brack- 


172 


VENEZUELA 


ets.  The  most  peculiar  feature  of  the  house  is  the  number 
of  portraits  of  himself  displayed.  There  is  one  in  nearly 
every  room.  Guzman  was  as  fond  of  having  his  face 
painted  as  Catherine  the  Second  of  Russia,  and  like  her  he 
kept  several  artists  busy  when  he  first  came  into  power. 
You  can  find  a full-length  portrait  in  oil  of  “The  Illustri- 
ous American  ” in  nearly  every  office  occupied  by  the  gov- 
ernment, and  there  are  a large  number  in  private  houses 
which  he  presented  to  his  friends.  During  his  reign  his 
face  was  to  be  seen  in  every  hotel  and  saloon,  and  in  many 
of  the  shops,  and  he  even  went  so  far  as  to  appear  in  the 
character  of  St.  Paul  the  Apostle  in  one  of  the  churches. 

The  story  goes  that  an  artist,  who  had  been  engaged 
to  decorate  the  Church  of  St.  Rosalie,  and  of  course  was 
anxious  to  secure  the  favor  of  the  Dictator,  asked  him  to  sit 
as  a model  for  St.  Paul,  pretending  that  he  noticed  in  Guz- 
man’s features  a striking  resemblance  to  the  accepted  pict- 
ures of  the  apostle.  The  general  was  greatly  pleased,  and 
now  appears  over  the  altar  of  the  church  clad  in  a purple 
toga,  carrying  an  unclasped  book  in  his  hands,  with  St. 
Mark  on  one  side  of  him  and  St.  John  on  the  other,  and 
St.  Luke  and  St.  Matthew  a little  farther  away.  The  artist 
made  a hit  when  he  paid  this  delicate  compliment  to  the 
Dictator’s  vanity,  and  it  brought  to  him  a good  many  lucra- 
tive commissions. 

But  the  most  absurd  picture  formerly  hung  in  the  Hall 
of  Representatives,  just  over  the  main  entrance.  It  was 
the  work  of  a Spanish  sycophant  named  Canizares.  It 
seems  almost  incredible  that  a man  of  Guzman  Blanco’s  in- 
telligence would  permit  himself  to  appear  in  such  a way, 
or  at  least  have  such  a preposterous  picture  hung  in  a 
public  place,  where  it  always  caused  a smile  of  derision 
even  from  those  who  dared  not  criticise  it  openly.  The 


SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 


173 


Dictator  appears  on  this  canvas  in  a cocked  hat  and  his 
most  resplendent  uniform,  astride  a magnificent  black  stal- 
lion. In  the  foreground,  with  very  bad  perspective,  are 
the  bodies  of  dead  soldiers  and  dismantled  cannon,  over 
which  his  charger  is  about  to  spring,  while  above  and  be- 
hind him  are  troops  of  angels  with  wings  and  harps  and  all 
that  sort  of  thing,  cherubim  and  seraphim,  supposed  to  be 
the  choirs  of  heaven  chanting  his  praises.  The  leader  of 
the  angelic  host  bears  a wreath  of  laurel,  with  which  she  is 
about  to  crown  him.  I have  seen  dying  martyrs  done  up 
in  this  wuay,  but  it  is  undoubtedly  the  only  instance  in 
which  a live  general  ever  permitted  an  artist  to  represent 
a sensation  in  the  celestial  regions  over  his  military  tri- 
umphs, and  it  is  particularly  absurd,  because  Guzman  was 
not  noted  for  his  piety,  and  was  at  war  with  the  church  all 
the  years  he  was  in  power. 

Another  picture,  almost  as  bad,  hung  in  the  National 
Museum,  in  the  room  which  is  sacred  to  the  memory  of 
Simon  Bolivar  and  is  filled  with  his  relics.  Bolivar,  as  I 
have  said,  is  as  much  revered  in  Venezuela  as  George  Wash- 
ington is  in  the  United  States  ; but  during  the  days  when 
the  people  were  trying  to  compensate  for  their  neglect  and 
cruelty  to  their  Liberator  by  paying  homage  to  his  memory 
and  his  dust,  an  artist  got  a commission  to  paint  the  scene 
at  his  death-bed.  Instead  of  representing  it  truthfully,  and 
adding  a valuable  contribution  to  the  history  of  the  coun- 
try, he  attempted  to  pay  a questionable  compliment  to  Guz- 
man and  the  then  influential  men  in  the  politics  of  the  re- 
public. Bolivar  died  on  a common  canvas  cot,  in  a miser- 
able dwelling,  attended  only  by  an  Indian  servant  and  a 
woman  who  had  nursed  him  ; but  this  picture  represents 
him  propped  up  with  downy  pillows  in  a luxurious  apart- 
ment, and  surrounded  by  men  who  were  not  born  until 


174 


VENEZUELA 


after  he  was  buried.  In  the  group  around  his  bed  appears 
Guzman  Blanco — who  came  into  the  world  a few  months 
after  the  Liberator  left  it — clad  in  the  gorgeous  uniform  of 
a general,  and  others  of  the  same  generation.  It  would 
be  equally  absurd  to  paint  Harrison  and  Reed,  Blaine  and 
Sherman,  Edmunds  and  Cleveland,  gathered  around  the 
death-bed  of  George  Washington. 

The  most  conspicuous  ornament  in  the  city  residence  of 
Guzman  Blanco  was  a life-size,  full-length  portrait  of  James 
G.  Blaine,  painted  by  a Washington  artist  when  he  was 
secretary  of  state  under  Garfield.  About  that  time  Guzman 
made  a visit  to  the  United  States.  Before  he  started,  in 
order  that  he  might  pave  the  way  for  a grand  reception, 
the  Dictator  presented  the  city  of  Hew  York  with  a bronze 
statue  of  Simon  Bolivar,  which  was  erected  in  Central  Park, 
and  he  arrived  in  time  to  participate  in  the  ceremonies  of 
unveiling  it.  He  was  received  with  marked  honors,  both 
by  the  people  of  New  York  and  the  government.  A ban- 
quet was  given  him,  eulogistic  speeches  were  made,  and  he 
was  immensely  gratified.  Then  he  went  to  Washington, 
where  he  was  received  in  a like  manner,  and  was  ten- 
dered many  attentions  by  Mr.  Blaine,  for  whom  he  formed 
a warm  admiration.  As  a souvenir  of  the  visit  Guzman  di- 
rected the  Venezuelan  minister  at  Washington  to  have  this 
portrait  painted,  and  it  has  since  hung  in  his  residence  at 
Caracas. 

Two  years  afterwards  Guzman  returned  the  hospitality 
he  received.  The  centennial  anniversary  of  Bolivar’s  birth 
was  celebrated  in  the  city  of  Caracas  by  erecting  in  one  of 
the  principal  plazas  a statue  to  George  Washington.  It  is 
a heroic  figure  of  the  man  “who  filled  two  continents  with 
his  benefits  and  the  whole  world  with  his  fame,”  and  it 
stands  upon  a massive  granite  pedestal.  On  one  side  is 


SOCIETY  IN  CARACAS 


175 


the  word  “Washington,”  in  large,  plain  letters;  on  anoth- 
er, “The  Centenary  of  Bolivar,  1883;”  on  the  third  the 
coat-of-arms  of  the  Republic  of  Venezuela,  and  on  the 
fourth  this  ever-present  legend  : 

Guzman  Blanco, 

The  Illustrious  American, 

Erected  this  statue. 

The  oration  at  the  unveiling  was  delivered  by  Mr.  Jehu 
Baker,  the  United  States  minister,  and  our  country  was 
represented  at  the  ceremonies  by  the  officers  and  sailors 
of  the  North  American  fleet.  Uncle  Sam’s  sailor  boys 
were  the  guests  of  the  nation.  Guzman  Blanco,  who  was 
then  president,  issued  a decree  forbidding  any  tradesman, 
hotel -keeper,  hack -driver,  bar -tender,  or  other  subject  of 
Venezuela  to  charge  them  for  anything  they  ate  or  drank 
or  wanted,  and  they  had  a fine  time  for  several  days. 


CHAPTER  XI V 

THE  NEWSPAPERS  OF  CARACAS 

There  are  not  many  newspapers  in  Venezuela.  In 
Caracas  are  half  a dozen  or  more  daily  publications,  but 
only  three  or  four  that  have  a right  to  be  dignified  by  that 
name.  The  remainder  spring  up  occasionally  when  there 
is  some  local  agitation,  like  campaign  editions  in  the 
United  States,  and  die  when  the  excitement  has  subsided. 
Others  are  issued  temporarily,  for  three  or  perhaps  six 
months,  in  the  interest  of  some  ambitious  politician,  some 
candidate  for  Congress  or  the  presidency.  Their  columns 
are  filled  with  fulsome  compliments  for  the  man  who  sup- 
ports them,  arguments  in  favor  of  his  election,  a standing 
sketch  of  his  life,  communications  signed  by  his  friends 
or  anonymous  commending  him  to  the  voters,  addresses  he 
delivers  here  and  there,  and  other  articles  calculated  to 
keep  his  name  before  the  public  and  win  him  votes. 

It  is  the  custom  for  every  public  man  to  have  his  organ, 
which  is  edited  by  himself  or  by  some  friend  holding  a 
government  sinecure  by  his  favor.  These  fugitive  sheets, 
as  they  may  be  termed,  are  printed  at  the  different  job 
offices,  paid  for  out  of  campaign  funds,  and  appear  and 
disappear  as  the  fortunes  of  him  they  advocate  rise  and 
fall.  If  the  candidate  happens  to  be  successful,  the  paper 
continues  to  be  issued  regularly,  and  may  possibly  take 
root  and  live  for  years.  But  originally  they  have  no  genu- 


THE  NEWSPAPERS  OF  CARACAS 


177 


ine  circulation,  but  are  sold  upon  the  street  by  newsboys 
and  distributed  gratis  at  the  expense  of  the  publisher. 

Until  recently  there  has  been  a censorship  of  the  press, 
and  papers  that  criticised  the  government  were  necessarily 
issued  secretly.  If  the  publisher  was  discovered  he  was 
likely  to  go  to  prison,  and  the  office  in  which  the  printing 
was  done  was  usually  confiscated  or  closed  by  the  police. 
But  the  press  of  Venezuela  is  free  now,  and  the  number  of 
papers  has  largely  increased,  especially  since  the  repudia- 
tion of  General  Guzman  Blanco.  People  who  have  been 
compelled  to  keep  their  opinions  of  him  to  themselves  are 
now  using  every  means  to  express  them. 

The  leading  newspaper  of  the  country  is  El  Diario  de 
Caracas,  and  it  is  conducted  with  considerable  ability.  It 
always  supports  the  existing  administration,  and  until  with- 
in a few  years  has  been  a warm  advocate  of  General  Guz- 
man Blanco  and  the  vehicle  of  his  views.  El  Diario  de 
Caracas  gets  no  cable  despatches,  but  publishes  a few 
telegrams  from  the  other  cities  of  the  republic,  which  it 
receives  free  of  cost  over  the  government  wires.  It  also 
has  a number  of  readable  letters  from  various  parts  of  the 
country  and  from  Europe.  One  page  is  generally  devoted 
to  the  decrees  of  the  president,  other  official  announce- 
ments, and  the  reports  and  correspondence  of  the  various 
officers  of  the  government.  Two  or  three  columns  of  edi- 
torials usually  appear,  and  about  as  much  space  is  devoted 
to  an  instalment  of  a serial  story.  The  local  page  contains 
brief  but  interesting  accounts  of  events  in  the  city,  which 
are  written  in  a dignified,  matter-of-fact  way,  without  any 
attempt  at  creating  a sensation.  There  is  considerable  ad- 
vertising, for  which  reasonably  good  rates  are  paid,  and  the 
circulation  of  four  or  five  thousand  copies  daily  at  twelve 
dollars  a year  makes  it  a profitable  investment. 

12 


178 


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El  Pregonero  is  a recently  established  morning  paper,  upon 
the  modern  North  American  plan,  liberal  in  politics,  but  rather 
independent  in  its  views.  It  is  a brighter  and  more  readable 
sheet  than  most  of  the  others,  but  it  is  not  conducted  with 
as  much  dignity  or  solemnity.  The  editorials  have  a reck- 
less tone,  and  consistency  is  not  considered  a jewel  in  the 
office.  El  Liberal  occasionally  lias  a few  stickfuls  of  cable 
news,  but  it  is  usually  padded  out  from  despatches  previ- 
ously printed  in  a little  commercial  paper  that  has  the  only 
genuine  cable  despatches  received  in  Caracas. 

This  paper,  which  is  not  more  than  seven  by  nine  inches 
in  size,  is  devoted  to  market  reports,  the  announcements  of 
steamship  arrivals  and  departures,  lists  of  passengers  upon 
such  vessels,  commercial  advertisements,  and  about  half  a 
column  of  very  brief  telegrams  from  the  United  States  and 
Europe. 

Another  paper  is  the  Gaceta  Official,  published  by  the  gov- 
ernment. It  contains  nothing  but  official  announcements, 
reports  from  the  various  executive  departments,  the  pro- 
ceedings of  Congress  and  the  text  of  laws  enacted  by  that 
body,  the  text  of  concessions  granted  by  the  government, 
diplomatic  correspondence,  a directory  of  officials  and  their 
residences,  etc. 

A good  deal  of  original  poetry  is  published  in  all  the 
newspapers,  and  essays  upon  abtruse  topics  often  appear, 
as  well  as  controversies,  political,  social,  and  theological. 
The  advertisements  are  amusing  to  the  North  American 
reader.  In  a copy  that  lies  before  me  a certain  merchant 
announces  that  he  has  received  by  the  last  American 
steamer  a consignment  of  Massachusetts  codfish,  and  re- 
spectfully begs  his  friends  and  patrons  to  call  at  once  and 
secure  a supply  of  the  fascinating  delicacy  before  it  is  all 
sold.  Advertisers  are  a great  deal  more  formal  and  cour- 


THE  NEWSPAPERS  OF  CARACAS 


179 


teous  than  in  the  United  States.  For  example,  a man  who 
has  a vacant  house  to  let,  says : 

“ The  elite  of  Caracas  are  respectfully  solicited  to  inform 
themselves  by  this  notice  that  the  undersigned  desires  to 
lease  a magnificent  residence,  possessing  every  convenience 
that  the  most  cultivated  taste  could  desire,  spacious  and 
superbly  decorated,  and  situated  in  the  most  fashionable 
quarter.  All  this  the  owner  is  willing  to  guarantee  upon 
his  honor,  also  that  it  will  accommodate  a numerous  and 
fastidious  family.  Information  concerning  the  location  and 
terms  will  be  cordially  furnished  at  7 Calle  Este.” 

There  is  an  advertisement  of  a store  called  “ El  Area  de 
Noe  ” (Noah’s  Ark),  where  everything  needful  can  be  pur- 
chased, and  another  of  a dress-making  establishment  called 
“ La  Solitude,”  at  which  the  latest  Paris  fashions  can  be 
seen  and  bridal  trousseaus  furnished  promptly.  A cabinet- 
maker, who  has  christened  his  shop  “La  Industria,”  calls 
attention  to  some  fine  furniture  he  has  in  stock  ; and  a firm 
of  undertakers  offers  to  perform  service  for  the  dead  in  the 
most  delicate  and  elegant  manner.  Another  merchant  has 
some  very  “ desirable  ” beer,  with  which  he  is  “prepared  to 
favor  the  community.” 

Births,  marriages,  and  deaths  are  announced  promptly. 
In  connection  with  the  two  former  the  congratulations  of 
friends  are  invited,  and  in  the  latter  their  sympathy.  Some 
of  the  death  notices  are  unique.  The  following  is  a 
sample : 


180 


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t 

MARfA  E.  GARCIA 
Sobre  su  tumba  el  27  de  mayo  de  1889 

Maria ! . . . Deslizose  cotno  rafaga  fugaz  de  brisa  primaveral  la 
existencia  de  esta  hermosa  nina,  que  por  sus  eximias  virtudes  consti- 
tuyo  liasta  aver  el  encanto  de  sus  padres  v amigos,  que  aun  la  Horan 
llenos  de  tristeza  y amargo  deseonsuelo. 

Maria  ! ...  A\  pronunciar  este  nombre,  que  en  dia  feliz  llevara  un 
angel  de  eternal  recordaeion,  el  corazon  se  oprime  de  pesar  ....  la 
mente  se  remonta  a lo  infinito  en  pos  de  simpatica  vision  y el  peclio 
palpita  con  violencia  a impulso  de  emocion  profunda. . . . 

Maria ! . . . Hoy  venimos  donde  tu  tumba  a ofrendarte  nuestras 
lagrimas,  elocuente  idioma  del  dolor  y fiel  tributo  de  veneration  a tu 
memoria,  como  lo  hicimos  tambien  el  dia  en  que  despojandote  de  pres- 
tada  vestidura,  desplegaste,  sonreida,  tus  alas  de  armino  para  remon- 
tarte  luego  a otros  mundos  en  busca  de  la  verdadera  perfection.  . . . 

A.  M.  C.  R. 

Of  this  the  following  is  a translation  : 

Maria — As  a fugitive  gust  of  a spring  breeze  the  existence  of  this 
beautiful  girl  was  dissipated,  who  by  her  eminent  virtues  constituted 
until  yesterday  the  enchantment  of  her  parents  and  friends,  that  now 
mourn  her  full  of  sadness  and  bitter  disconsolation. 

Maria — At  the  pronunciation  of  this  name,  that  in  a happy  day 
may  bear  an  angel  of  eternal  remembrance,  the  heart  is  oppressed  with 
sorrow — the  mind  flies  to  the  infinite  in  pursuit  of  some  sympathetic 
vision,  and  the  breast  palpitates  violently  with  the  impulse  of  profound 
emotion. 

Maria — To-day  we  come  to  your  tomb  to  offer  out  tears,  the  elo- 
quent language  of  sorrow  and  the  true  tribute  of  veneration  to  your  mem- 
ory, as  also  we  observed  the  day  in  which,  stripping  j’ourself  of  bor- 
rowed vestments,  you  distended,  smiling,  your  ermine  wings  to  soar  to 
other  worlds  in  search  of  true  perfection.” 


THE  NEWSPAPERS  OF  CARACAS 


181 


Here  is  another : 

PESAME 

Anteayer  bajo  al  sepulcro,  el  honrado  y laborioso  senor  Paulo  Emilio 
Gomez;  y al  lamentar  tan  irreparable  perdida, enviamos  nuestra  sincera 
espresion  de  dolor  a sus  aflijidos  deudos,  especialmente  a nuestro  esti- 
mado  amigo  y companero  el  senor  Guillermo  Gomez,  hermano  del  finado. 

Elpidio  Salvador  Gomez. 

Translation : 

CONDOLENCE 

Day  before  yesterday  went  down  to  tne  sepulchre  the  honest  and  la- 
borious Mr.  Paul  Emilio  Gomez,  and  at  lamenting  so  irreparable  a loss 
we  send  our  sincere  expression  of  sorrow  to  his  afflicted  relatives,  espe- 
cially to  our  esteemed  friend  and  companion  Sir.  William  Gomez, 
brother  of  the  deceased. 

Peculiar  funeral  customs  that  were  in  vogue  in  Vene- 
zuela fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago.  and  were  inherited  from 
Spain,  have  been  abandoned,  and  are  seldom  seen  nowadays. 
Funerals  are  managed  about  as  they  are  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  etiquette  that  governs  people  in  mourning 
is  about  the  same,  except  when  a gentleman  or  lady  of  the 
old  school  dies — some  grandee  of  the  ancient  monarchical 
regime,  who  even  in  his  coffin  will  not  approve  the  innova- 
tions of  the  liberal  party.  But  these  tenacious  Bourbons  have 
pretty  nearly  all  expired.  Only  a few  remain  to  reproach 
the  present  generation  for  its  progressiveness,  and  relate 
tales  of  what  was  done  under  the  king. 

In  the  towns  of  the  interior  one  often  is  allowed  to  wit- 
ness the  methods  and  the  etiquette  of  the  past,  for  the 
light  of  the  modern  sun  has  not  yet  thrown  its  direct  rays 
over  the  mountains,  and  the  people  beyond  them  only  now 
and  then  get  a gleam.  When  a man  of  social  position  dies 
there,  it  is  customary  for  the  surviving  members  of  his 


183 


VENEZUELA 


family  to  issue  cards  of  announcement,  and  printed  invita- 
tions to  the  funeral,  which  are  not  sent  out  in  the  same  way 
as  invitations  to  a dinner  or  a ball,  but  are  delivered  at  the 
houses  of  those  to  whom  they  are  addressed  by  men  con- 
nected with  some  undertaking  establishment.  These  mes- 
sengers are  clothed  in  long  stockings,  knickerbockers,  waist- 
coat and  coat,  all  of  black  silk,  and  cocked  hats  from  which 
Jong  pieces  of  crape  like  streamers  hang  down  behind. 
This  sombre  livery  may  be  relieved  by  silver  cord  up  the 
seams  of  the  breeches,  around  the  sleeves  of  their  coats, 
and  around  their  hats,  and,  if  it  is  a child  that  is  dead,  they 
wear  white  gloves  and  ties  instead  of  black,  and  a white 
waistcoat.  They  usually  go  on  their  errands  in  pairs,  and 
walk  the  streets  solemnly,  each  carrying  a long  staff  like  the 
baton  of  a drum-major,  with  a festoon  of  crape  hanging  to 
it.  If  the  family  is  wealthy  a carriage  is  employed  for  them. 

A selection  of  guests  is  made  for  the  services  at  the  house, 
of  relatives  and  the  more  intimate  friends,  while  the  invita- 
tions for  those  at  the  church  are  more  general,  and  include  all 
the  acquaintances  of  the  deceased,  at  least  of  his  own  caste. 
It  is  customary  at  the  conclusion  of  the  brief  ceremonies  at 
the  house  for  some  one  who  has  prepared  himself  before- 
hand to  present  a written  testimonial  to  the  worth  of  the 
one  they  mourn,  or  a series  of  resolutions,  which  are  read, 
adopted  as  the  sentiments  of  the  company,  and  placed  in  the 
casket  before  it  is  sealed — a sort  of  post-mortem  indorsement 
of  the  deceased’s  character,  so  that  if  the  remains  should 
ever  be  disinterred  posterity  might  know  what  sort  of  a 
soul  inhabited  them.  Then  the  body  is  taken  to  the  church, 
where  mass  is  sung,  and  afterwards  to  the  cemetery.  The 
persons  invited  to  the  house  are  expected  to  return  there 
upon  the  conclusion  of  the  services  at  the  grave,  and  find 
a luncheon  or  dinner  spread  with  wines  and  other  luxuries. 


THE  NEWSPAPERS  OF  CARACAS 


183 


Within  the  next  ten  days  all  persons  who  were  asked 
to  the  funeral  are  expected  to  pay  visits  of  condolence. 
They  will  find  the  furniture  and  pictures  all  draped  in 
mourning  (which  remains  upon  them  for  a year),  and  in 
the  parlor  the  wife  and  family  of  the  deceased  waiting  to 
receive  them  in  solemn  formality.  Sunlight  and  air  is  ex- 
cluded from  the  room,  and  numerous  candles  are  burning. 
The  hostess,  if  she  be  a widow,  sits  in  state,  surrounded  by 
her  sons  and  daughters,  and  without  rising  from  her  seat 
listens  to  the  words  of  sympathy  offered  by  her  visitors. 

Most  of  the  cemeteries  are  surrounded  by  high  walls. 
These  are  honey-combed  with  gigantic  “pigeon-holes,” 
nine  feet  deep  by  three  feet  wide  and  high,  and  having 
marble  slabs  with  which  they  can  be  sealed.  These 
pockets  can  be  rented  by  the  year,  or  permanently  secured 
by  purchase,  and  used  for  tombs,  while  upon  the  slab  at 
the  end  the  inscription  can  be  placed.  In  case  of  any 
failure  to  pay  the  rent  the  fact  is  advertised,  and  then  after 
sufficient  notice  the  officers  of  the  cemetery  are  permitted 
to  take  the  body  out  and  place  it  in  the  potter’s  field, 
usually  a large  pit  known  as  el  carnero.  But  there  are 
burials  in  the  earth,  as  in  the  Northern  States,  and  in 
vaults  and  sepulchres,  some  of  them  very  handsome.  The 
graves  are  seldom  decorated  with  plants  or  even  fresh 
flowers,  which  is  rather  strange  in  a land  of  botanical 
luxuriance,  but  ornaments  made  of  shells  and  wire  and 
beads  are  hung  over  the  tombstones,  in  which  a photo- 
graph of  the  dead  is  often  encased.  On  a great  many 
tombstones — in  fact,  upon  nearly  every  one  that  marks  the 
grave  of  a woman — appear  the  words  “Ella  Duerme.” 
This  perplexes  a stranger  who  does  not  understand  Spanish, 
but  it  is  not  the  name  of  a girl ; it  means,  “ She  sleeps.” 

The  name  of  the  principal  cemetery  at  Caracas  is  “ Para  - 
dise.” 


CHAPTER  XV 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 

There  are  two  market-houses  in  Caracas.  The  old  one 
was  built  long  ago,  nobody  appears  to  remember  just  when, 
and  is  a close,  dismal  place.  There  are  a few  cell-like  rooms 
or  vaults  in  the  walls,  in  which  merchants  display  a variety 
of  wares,  while  most  of  the  butchers,  hucksters,  and  fruit- 
dealers  are  herded  in  an  open  court.  The  few  clumsy 
stands,  imperfectly  sheltered  from  the  sun  and  the  rain,  are 
so  crowded  that  one  cannot  pass  through  easily  at  any 
time,  while  at  seven  or  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning,  when 
the  greatest  number  of  purchasers  are  there,  locomotion  is 
almost  impossible. 

The  new  market-house,  situated  at  a much  more  favora- 
ble location,  one  block  from  the  Municipal  Theatre,  is  about 
as  convenient  a structure  for  the  purpose  as  can  be  imag- 
ined. The  roof  is  of  galvanized  iron,  the  walls  of  lattice- 
work,  and  the  floor  of  cement.  The  stalls  are  well  arranged, 
with  shelves  for  the  display  of  goods,  bins  for  vegetables, 
trays  for  flowers,  and  in  the  meat  and  fish  department  all 
the  counters  are  of  marble.  But  it  is  empty.  Nobody 
patronizes  it.  Although  the  other  place  is  uncomfortably 
jammed,  and  entirely  without  conveniences,  the  people  have 
been  in  the  habit  of  going  there  to  buy  and  sell  all  their 
lives,  and,  according  to  that  stubborn  resistance  to  all  inno- 
vations that  is  so  characteristic  of  them,  they  continue  to  do 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


185 


as  they  have  done.  They  spread  their  vegetables  and  fruits 
on  the  ground  and  squat  among  them,  when  they  might 
have  a neat  and  tidy  stand.  Perhaps  the  buyer  would  be 
willing  to  go  to  the  other  place  if  the  sellers  would  remove 
there,  or  at  least  a portion  of  them,  but  the  latter  belong  to 
the  peon  class,  and  are  the  most  stubborn  and  least  enter- 
prising of  all. 

Most  of  the  vegetables  and  other  produce  is  brought  in 
every  morning  from  the  country  on  the  backs  of  donkeys, 
and  at  daylight  long  trains  of  these  little  animals  begin  to 
file  into  the  city,  with  market  and  men  sitting  on  their 
backs.  No  matter  how  big  the  load  is,  the  driver  must 
perch  on  top  of  it,  and  the  slender  legs  of  the  beast  look 
like  pipe  stems  under  a big  loaf  of  bread.  Sometimes  only 
their  heads,  or  perhaps  only  the  tips  of  their  noses,  are  vis- 
ible under  a pile  of  hay  or  sugar-cane,  of  which  large 
quantities  are  brought  into  town  for  fodder,  while  the  rear 
view  does  not  disclose  any  animal  at  all,  only  a mysterious 
pile  of  green  plumes  moving  silently  along  the  road. 

The  fruits  and  vegetables  of  Venezuela  are  rich  and 
numerous;  in  fact,  almost  anything  that  grows  upon  the 
earth’s  surface  can  be  produced  within  the  limits  of  the 
countrv.  Among  the  native  cereals  that  can  be  bought  in 
the  Caracas  market  are  rice,  indian  corn,  wheat,  barley,  and 
sometimes  rye ; of  farinaceous  fruits  and  roots  are  the  dif- 
ferent varieties  of  the  banana  or  plantain,  which  are  numer- 
ous ; the  yucca,  the  arrow-root,  cassava,  mandioca,  of  which 
tapioca  is  made,  and  bread-fruit.  There  are  also  sweet  and 
white  potatoes,  and  no  end  of  delicious  vegetables — all  that 
we  get  in  the  United  States,  and  many  that  we  know  noth- 
ing of.  The  fruits  are  not  as  palatable  as  those  of  the 
temperate  zone,  although  some  are  delicious,  but  they  are 
too  rich,  too  sweet,  and  oily.  The  pineapples  are  wonder- 


186 


VENEZUELA 


fu],  and  almost  melt  in  your  mouth,  while  the  zapote,  after 
it  has  been  in  an  ice-box  for  a time,  tastes  like  frozen  cus- 
tard, and  the  aguacate,  a standard  fruit,  which  is  known  in 
the  United  States  as  the  alligator  pear,  makes  a delicious 
salad.  Yet  for  every-day  diet  there  isn’t  anything  in  the 
tropics  that  will  compare  with  the  Concord  grape  or  the 
russet  apple. 

But  the  Venezuelans  have  one  great  advantage  over  us. 
They  have  the  same  fresh  vegetables  the  year  round. 
They  can  plant  their  gardens  whenever  they  please.  The 
seeds  will  sprout  and  the  vegetables  will  mature  in  Febru- 
ary as  well  as  in  June,  in  November  as  well  as  in  August, 
although  in  the  dry  season  they  have  to  be  irrigated.  And 
irrigated  gardens  are  always  more  reliable  than  those  left 
to  nature’s  moisture.  As  the  old  Yankee  down  in  Maine 
said  : 

“The  Lord  sends  the  rain  upon  the  just  and  the  unjust, 
but  he  ain’t  as  regular  as  he  might  be.  Sometimes  he 
overdoes  it,  and  then  agin  lie’s  tollable  scrimpy.” 

The  irrigated  fields  and  gardens  will  always  produce  in 
great  abundance,  and  by  regulating  his  planting  a farmer 
may  have  fresh  pease  and  beans,  asparagus  and  lettuce,  new 
potatoes  and  tomatoes  every  month  in  the  year.  They 
have  delicious  cantaloupes  and  watermelons,  but  no  green 
corn  on  the  ear.  They  might  have  it;  they  can  raise 
anything  in  their  warm,  deep  soil,  hut  they  do  not  know 
how  ; and  they  cannot  cook  their  vegetables  properly,  or 
prepare  them  for  the  table  to  suit  the  North  American 
taste. 

The  Spanish-American  wants  everything  swimming  in 
oil  and  seasoned  with  garlic,  or  smothered  in  rich  dress- 
ings with  oil  as  their  base.  At  the  hotels,  and  in  most  of 
the  private  houses,  the  cool,  crisp  lettuce  will  be  brought 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


187 


upon  the  table  chopped  almost  as  fine  as  rice,  and  mixed 
with  garlic  or  the  tops  of  onions.  It  took  me  about  a 
week  to  persuade  the  cook  at  the  hotel  to  let  me  have  let- 
tuce in  the  natural  state,  and  then  it  was  brought  to  the 
table  in  the  head,  just  as  it  was  purchased  in  the  market. 

They  have  some  queer  things  on  the  bills  of  fare.  We 
studied  over  one  item  that  appeared  almost  daily  as  “ gar- 
den eggs,”  and  when  we  ordered  some  out  of  curiosity 
it  turned  out  to  be  egg-plant.  Another  was  “papas  en 
camisas.”  A “camisa”  ordinarily  is  a night-shirt,  or  the 
jacket  of  a pyjama.  Hence  the  natural  inference  was  that 
we  had  landed  among  a community  of  cannibals  who  were 
serving  up  somebody’s  papa  in  his  night-shirt.  But  papa 
in  Spanish  means  potato,  and  this  mysterious  article  of  food 
was  nothing  more  than  an  ordinary  steamed  potato  with 
the  skin  or  jacket  on.  A cantaloupe  is  called  a “ melone,” 
and  the  word  sounds  like  the  name  of  a numerous  and 
highly  respected  Irish  family.  So  when  we  wanted  a 
portion  of  that  toothsome  fruit  we  called  for  a “ malony.” 
And  a woman’s  bonnet  is  called  a “ begorra.” 

There  are  some  even  queerer  things  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage, however.  The  pupil  of  the  eye,  for  example,  is 
“ the  little  girl  of  the  eye  ” when  literally  translated — 
“la  nina  de  ojo.”  And,  although  it  is  not  quite  so  poetic, 
the  nostrils  are  “the  windows  of  the  nose  ” — “ las  ventanas 
de  la  nariz.”  Then,  again,  the  “dado”  is  the  finger,  and 
the  thumb  is  “la  dado  pulgar.”  “Pulgar”  means  flea,  hence 
the  thumb  is  “the  flea  finger,”  which  illustrates  one  of  the 
occupations  of  the  people. 

The  meat  in  Venezuela  is  poor,  as  it  is  in  every  hot 
country,  and  the  same  can  be  said  of  the  milk.  There  is 
no  turf  in  the  tropics,  no  meadows,  no  lawns,  no  hills 
covered  with  emerald  grass,  and  no  hay.  But  if  a joke 


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will  be  permitted,  I might  correct  myself  and  remark  that 
there  is  a great  deal  of  “ no  hay  ” — more  than  anything  else 
in  the  entire  country.  For  those  who  do  not  understand 
Spanish  this  inoffensive  pun  needs  a diagram,  for  in  that 
language  “no  hay”  means  “there  is  none,”  and  is  one  of 
the  most  common  expressions  in  use  among  the  people.  If 
you  ask  a waiter  at  the  hotel  for  a glass  of  ice-water,  he 
will  answer, 

“ No  hay.” 

There  is  none  ; there  never  is  except  at  meal-time,  when 
a chunk  of  ice  is  brought  from  the  factory  by  a boy  for  the 
especial  benefit  of  North  American  guests.  If  you  ask  a 
clerk  in  a store  for  some  article,  the  reply  will  be, 

“ No  hay.” 

And  so  it  goes.  You  hear  those  two  words  constantly 
from  morning  till  night,  and  yet,  speaking  in  English,  there 
is  no  hay  in  the  country.  The  cattle  and  the  horses  are 
fed  almost  exclusively  upon  the  foliage  of  the  sugar-cane. 
When  the  cane  is  cut  the  leaves  are  stripped  off  and  taken 
to  market  on  the  backs  of  donkeys,  while  the  stalks  are 
sent  to  the  mill  to  have  the  juice  crushed  out.  This  sort 
of  fodder  does  not  make  good  milk  or  good  meat,  and  the 
traveller  in  the  tropics  will  not  enjoy  either.  When  yon 
ask  a North  American  what  he  would  like  most  to  eat, 
provided  he  could  get  anything  he  wanted,  he  will  invaria- 
bly answer, 

“ A juicy  beefsteak,  a glass  of  cool  milk,  and  cream  for 
my  coffee.” 

The  cows  are  generally  allowed  to  run  about  the  streets 
and  the  fields,  to  pick  up  what  they  can,  and  are  given 
fodder  morning  and  night ; but  they  are  milked  only  once  a 
day,  and  then  at  no  particular  place,  but  wherever  the 
owner  can  catch  them.  They  are  lean,  lmngry-looking 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


189 


animals,  and  kick  like  mules,  so  the  milkers  tie  their  legs 
with  a rope  or  a strap  before  beginning,  just  as  they  slip  a 
broad  strap  attached  to  the  bridle  of  a mule  over  his  eyes 
when  they  dismount.  The  milk  is  brought  to  town  in  big 
cans  on  the  backs  of  donkeys,  and  is  always  boiled  as  soon 
as  it  is  received  by  the  customers,  for  there  is  not  such  a 
thing  as  a refrigerator  in  the  entire  country. 

There  is  ice  enough,  or  at  least  sufficient  for  the  demand, 
and  it  is  all  artificial,  made  in  a factory, the  capacity  of  which 
is  2000  pounds  a day  for  a city  of  55,000  inhabitants. 
None  is  ever  delivered  at  the  houses.  If  you  want  it  you 
have  to  go  to  the  factory,  where  it  is  sold  at  five  cents  a 
pound,  and  the  customer  instead  of  the  dealer  loses  what 
melts  while  it  is  being  taken  to  its  destination.  But  very 
few  people  use  ice.  The  natives  drink  wine  at  all  their 
meals,  and  between  times  when  they  are  thirsty  they  go  to 
a big  jar  called  an  olla,  which  stands  under  a filter  in  the 
patio,  and  help  themselves.  The  jar  is  porous,  and  its  con- 
tents are  kept  cool  by  the  evaporation  of  the  moisture 
upon  its  outer  surface. 

Butter  is  scarce  and  expensive,  and  outside  the  larger 
cities  cannot  be  obtained  at  all.  The  native  milk  is  so 
thin  and  weak  that  no  cream  ever  rises  to  its  surface, 
hence  no  butter  can  be  made ; then,  as  there  are  no  cold- 
storage  establishments  and  no  refrigerators,  the  imported 
article  is  difficult  t'o  keep.  After  it  has  been  exposed  to  a 
hundred  degrees  of  heat  for  several  days  in  succession, 
that  which  is  imported  from  the  United  States  looks  and 
tastes  like  lamp-oil,  and  is  scarcely  fit  for  lubricating  pur- 
poses. Bringing  it  a mile  and  a half  in  an  open  lighter 
from  the  steamer  to  the  dock  will  reduce  the  consistency 
of  a tub  of  butter,  as  one  may  imagine,  and  after  it  has 
once  melted  there  is  no  means  of  making-  it  hard  again. 


190 


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The  Dutch  dairymen  in  Holland  prepare  their  butter  ex- 
pressly for  exportation  to  tropical  climates,  and  are  reason- 
ably successful.  It  is  put  up  in  one-pound  tins,  hermeti- 
cally sealed,  and  then  packed  in  boxes  of  sawdust,  which 
shelter  it  from  the  heat.  These  pound  cans  cost  sixty 
cents,  and,  being  so  expensive,  their  contents  are  used  spar- 
ingly and  handled  with  the  greatest  degree  of  economy 
possible. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  natural  curiosities  to 
be  found  in  Venezuela  is  the  palo  de  leche , or  milk -tree, 
from  which,  when  tapped,  will  flow  a plentiful  supply  of 
creamy  sap  that  resembles  cow’s  milk  both  in  taste  and  ap- 
pearance, although  it  is  thicker — as  thick  as  the  ordinary 
cream — and  grows  more  dense  the  longer  it  is  exposed  to 
the  atmosphere.  It  is  wholesome  and  nutritious  both  when 
raw  and  when  cooked,  and  a chemical  analysis  shows  it  to 
be  composed  of  water,  albumen,  and  wax.  The  latter  can 
be  easily  extracted,  is  as  pure  as  that  made  by  the  bees, 
and  is  used  for  the  same  purposes.  The  Indians  make 
candles  of  it. 

There  is  another  tree  called  la  candela , which  supplies 
a sort  of  tallow  for  candles,  an  excellent  oil  for  lamps, 
and  a popular  beverage  named  chicha  is  made  of  its  fer- 
mented fruit.  There  is  still  another  tree,  known  as  the 
carapa,  found  in  some  portions  of  the  northern  Andes, 
which,  when  cut  into  strips,  will  burn  like  a candle,  except 
that  it  splutters  a good  deal  because  of  the  moisture  mixed 
with  the  sap. 

Cheese  is  made  in  Venezuela  from  milk  curded  in  the 
usual  way.  The  curds  are  boiled  in  the  whey,  then  pulled 
like  taffy  ; a little  salt  is  added,  when  the  dough  is  mould- 
ed into  little  cakes  and  hung  up  in  nets  to  drip  and  dry. 

Bread  is  made  by  first  pounding  the  grain — corn,  wheat, 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


191 


rye,  or  barley — to  flour  in  large  mortars  of  hard  wood  or 
stone.  Next  it  is  cleansed  by  having  water  poured  over  it, 
the  chaff  rising  to  the  surface.  Then  the  flour  is  mixed 
with  water  and  ground  to  paste  between  two  stones,  mould- 
ed into  flat  cakes,  wrapped  in  leaves,  and  baked  on  flat 
stones  which  have  been  heated  by  having  a fire  built  upon 
them.  An  earthen  jar  is  usually  placed  over  the  baking, 
so  as  to  retain  the  heat. 

One  cannot  buy  coffee  plantations  in  Venezuela  except  for 
their  full  value,  for  they  have  gradually  passed  into  the  pos- 
session of  men  of  means,  who  regard  them  as  the  safest  and 
most  profitable  of  investments.  A good  plantation,  yielding 
1000  quintals  of  coffee — they  do  not  go  by  acres,  but  by  the 
number  of  trees  and  their  average  yield,  and  a quintal  is 
125  pounds — is  worth,  at  the  lowest  estimate,  $50,000,  and 
could  not  be  bought  anywhere  near  Caracas  for  much  less 
than  that.  But  it  would  pay  a net  income  of  $12,000  a 
year  at  present  prices,  and  from  $8000  to  $10,000  at  ordi- 
nary prices.  Coffee  has  sold  in  years  back  as  low  at  $9.50 
a hundred.  Now  it  is  worth  $21.50  in  the  Caracas  mar- 
ket. But  even  at  the  lowest  price  such  a plantation  would 
pay  a revenue  of  $5000  a year,  or  10  per  cent,  net  upon 
the  value  I have  named. 

The  situation  of  a plantation  also  governs  its  value  con- 
siderably. The  healthiness  and  the  temperature  of  the 
location,  its  convenience  to  market,  the  amount  of  water 
available,  and  the  character  of  the  improvements  add  or 
detract  from  the  worth  of  the  property.  The  planter  sel- 
dom lives  upon  his  quinta  for  more  than  a few  months  in 
the  year,  but  must  keep  up  an  establishment  in  the  city, 
where  his  wife  can  have  social  enjoyments  and  his  children 
an  opportunity  of  attending  school.  There  are  some  plan- 
tations in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Caracas  which 


192 


VENEZUELA 


would  not  be  sold  for  twice  the  sum  I Lave  named,  and  the 
incomes  they  furnish  their  owners  justify  the  value  at  which 
they  are  held.  Venezuela  exports  a hundred  million  pounds 
of  coffee,  and  at  a profit  of  from  seven  to  nine  cents  a pound, 
which  shows  the  magnitude  of  the  business  and  the  wealth 
it  is  bringing  into  the  country. 

About  one-half  of  the  product  now  comes  to  the  United 
States,  where  it  is  sold  as  Mocha  coffee.  It  comes  so  near 
Mocha  in  flavor  and  appearance  that  none  but  an  expert 
can  detect  the  difference,  and  has  almost  entirely  driven 
the  genuine  berry  out  of  the  market.  Some  years  ago 
there  was  a plague  in  Arabia  where  the  Mocha  coffee  is 
grown,  and  shipments  were  almost  entirely  stopped.  Then 
the  merchants  were  obliged  to  find  a substitute,  and  the 
Venezuela  berry  was  so  popular  that  it  has  kept  its  place. 
Twenty  years  ago  there  were  not  a hundred  bags  of  Caracas 
coffee  sold  in  the  United  States  annually,  but  now  the  ex- 
port reaches  nearly  fifty  million  pounds.  A few  years  ago 
the  house  of  Boulton  was  alone  in  the  trade.  Now  there 
are  a dozen  houses  in  the  United  States  and  several  in 
Canada  that  make  it  their  exclusive  business. 

The  product  is  not  increasing  in  Venezuela,  and  that 
keeps  up  the  price.  Few  new  plantations  are  being  started. 
At  former  prices,  and  when  the  government  was  unsettled, 
it  did  not  pay  to  invest  money  in  starting  plantations,  for 
it  takes  about  seven  years  to  bring  trees  to  the  producing 
age.  First  the  ground  is  cleared  and  burned  over  two  or 
three  times  to  get  rid  of  the  brush  ; then  it  is  ploughed  and 
laid  off  into  squares.  Then  shade  trees  must  be  planted 
to  shelter  the  coffee  bushes  from  the  sun.  Every  planta- 
tion is  shaded.  Banana-trees  are  put  out  originally  to  pro- 
tect the  young  plants,  for  they  shoot  up  rapidly  and  have 
luxurious  foliage ; but  for  permanent  shade  a large,  quick- 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


193 


growing  tree  called  the  bucuara,  which  resembles  the  syc- 
amore, is  used.  The  coffee  seed  is  planted  in  a nursery,  and 
seedlings  are  transplanted  to  the  field  when  they  are  about 
a foot  high.  They  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds  and  have 
a good  deal  of  water.  A coffee  plantation  without  irriga- 
tion facilities  is  worthless;  but  after  the  bushes  are  fully 
grown  they  do  not  require  so  much  trouble  or  expense  to 
care  for. 

The  blossoms,  which  are  as  beautiful  as  those  of  the 
orange  flower,  begin  to  appear  about  the  third  year,  and 
in  the  fifth  year  a small  crop  may  be  expected  ; but  the 
trees  do  not  mature  until  the  seventh  year,  and  a full  crop 
will  not  be  gathered  before  the  eighth.  A well-shaded 
estate  will  last  sixty  or  seventy-five  years,  and  bear  fruit 
regularly.  There  is  one  plantation  just  outside  the  city 
of  Caracas  which  was  planted  in  1810,  and  another  that 
was  planted  at  the  end  of  the  last  century.  Both  are  pro- 
ducing luxuriously.  Coffee  is  a tough  crop,  is  never  af- 
fected by  bugs  or  worms  or  grasshoppers,  although  the 
trees  may  perish  from  thirst  or  the  fruit  may  rust  from 
too  much  rain. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  coffee.  The  “ Caracas  washed  ” 
is  the  best,  and  its  superiority  is  due  to  the  fact  that  it  is 
treated  with  so  much  care  while  being  cured.  All  the 
pulp  and  extraneous  substances  are  carefully  wvashed  by 
hand  from  the  berry,  and  therefore  there  is  nothing  to 
impair  its  flavor.  When  ripe,  the  color  of  the  fruit  is 
scarlet.  It  resembles  a cherry  in  size  and  shape,  but  tastes 
very  differently,  being  excessively  bitter  and  rasping.  A 
persimmon  is  mild  in  comparison.  W’hen  the  fruit  is 
picked,  it  is  run  through  a crusher,  which  breaks  the  skin 
and  separates  the  pulp  from  the  seeds.  Next  it  is  put 
through  a sort  of  separator,  and  then  stirred  violently 
13 


194 


VENEZUELA 


around  in  a whirling  basin  of  water  to  wash  it  clean,  for 
it  is  essential  to  remove  all  the  pulp  from  the  kernel.  The 
Caracas  washed  cotfee  is  then  all  passed  through  the  hands 
of  women  and  girls,  who  rub  it,  separate  the  large  from  the 
small  kernels,  and  take  out  all  that  are  defective.  Then 
it  is  spread  out  on  cement  floors  to  dry,  placed  in  sacks, 
and  sent  to  market.  Cotfee  should  be  at  least  three  years 
old  to  taste  its  best,  for  when  it  is  green  it  has  a rank 
flavor,  which  disappears  with  age. 

There  is  plenty  of  good  coffee  land  going  to  waste  in 
Venezuela,  and  there  will  never  be  any  less  of  the  staple 
consumed  than  now.  Statistics  show  that  the  consumption 
of  cotfee  in  the  United  States  alone  has  more  than  doubled 
in  the  last  ten  years,  and  that  there  would  not  be  sufficient 
in  the  crop  of  the  world  to  supply  the  demand  unless  for- 
eign substances  were  used  for  adulteration. 

Cocoa,  the  chocolate  bean,  is  an  even  more  profitable 
crop  than  cotfee,  and  its  price  is  almost  as  fixed  as  that 
of  gold.  In  some  portions  of  the  country  cocoa  beans  are 
still  used  as  legal-tender,  and  in  many  of  the  smaller  towns 
customers  at  market  have  to  take  them  in  lieu  of  small 
change,  as  they  use  rolls  of  bread  in  Ecuador.  Cotfee  was 
introduced  into  the  country  from  Arabia  by  the  Franciscan 
monks,  but  cocoa  was  indigenous  to  the  soil  and  was  used 
in  large  quantities  by  the  Indians  for  food  at  the  time  of 
the  discovery.  It  was  not  liked  by  the  Spaniards  at  first, 
but  was  introduced  into  France  by  the  Franciscans,  who  were 
always  enterprising,  and  the  French  cooks  at  once  adopted 
it  into  great  favor.  Cardinal  Richelieu  is  said  to  have 
been  the  first  chocolate-drinker  of  any  fame,  and  to  have 
set  the  fashion  of  using  it. 

There  are  two  kinds  : the  native  cocoa,  called  El  Criollo, 
and  an  imported  plant  called  El  Trinitario,  that  was  brought 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


195 


to  the  country  from  Trinidad  and  other  of  the  West  India 
islands.  The  former  is  of  superior  quality,  and  scarce. 
Not  more  than  five  or  six  thousand  bags  are  raised  annu- 
ally, and  it  is  worth  from  thirty-two  to  thirty-five  dollars 
gold  per  bag  of  one  hundred  and  ten  pounds.  Of  the 
Trinidad  variety  about  a hundred  thousand  bags  are  raised, 
and  it  sells  from  eighteen  to  twenty  dollars  a bag.  The 
native  plant  requires  peculiar  soil  and  care,  and  grows  best 
in  the  hottest  and  most  unhealthful  regions,  so  that  there 
is  not  much  comfort  in  its  cultivation.  The  cocoa  planta- 
tions are  found  all  along  the  coast,  and  are  more  profitable 
than  coffee  on  account  of  their  requiring  less  attention,  as 
well  as  because  of  the  greater  value  of  the  crop. 

While  coffee  can  be  successfully  cultivated  under  a min- 
imum temperature  of  G0°  Fahrenheit,  the  cocoa -tree,  for 
proper  development  and  remunerative  crops,  requires  a tem- 
perature of  at  least  80°  Fahrenheit,  hence  the  area  of  the 
cocoa  belt  is  comparatively  restricted.  Besides  the  con- 
ditions of  temperature,  this  crop  needs  a moist  soil  and 
humid  atmosphere,  therefore  the  lands  along  the  coast  of 
the  Caribbean  Sea,  sloping  from  the  foot-hills  to  the  shore, 
bedewed  by  the  exhalations  from  the  sea  and  irrigated  by 
the  numerous  rivulets  that  course  down  the  valleys,  are  found 
to  be,  in  all  respects,  well  adapted  to  the  profitable  cultiva- 
tion of  cocoa.  And  while  the  lands  in  the  interior  possess- 
ing facilities  for  irrigation  may  be  said  to  be  equally  as 
good  for  the  purpose,  yet  the  absence  of  roads,  and  the 
consequently  difficult  transportation  of  produce  on  the  hacks 
of  donkeys  over  rugged  mountain-paths,  materially  reduce 
the  profits  on  the  crop  before  it  reaches  the  market. 

A cocoa  plantation  is  set  out  in  quite  the  same  manner 
as  a coffee  orchard,  except  that  the  young  stock  may  be 
transplanted  from  the  nursery  after  two  months’  growth. 


196 


VENEZUELA 


No  preparation  of  the  soil  is  deemed  necessary  and  no 
manures  are  applied.  The  young  trees  are  planted  about 
fifteen  feet  equidistant,  which  will  accommodate  two  hun- 
dred trees  to  the  acre.  Between  the  rows  and  at  like 
spaces  are  planted  rows  of  the  bucuara -tree,  that  serve 
to  shade  the  soil  as  well  as  to  shield  the  young  trees 
from  the  torrid  sun.  Small  permanent  trenches  must  be 
maintained  from  tree  to  tree  throughout  the  entire  length 
of  the  rows,  so  that  at  least  once  in  each  week  the  stream 
descending  from  the  mountains  may  be  turned  into  these 
little  channels  and  bear  needful  moisture  to  trees  and  soil. 
At  the  age  of  five  years  the  plantation  begins  to  bear  fruit, 
and  annually  yields  two  crops,  that  ripening  in  June  being 
termed  the  crop  of  San  Juan,  and  that  maturing  at  Christ- 
mas being  known  as  the  crop  of  La  Navidad.  The  aver- 
age age  to  which  the  trees  attain  under  proper  care  may 
be  estimated  at  forty  years,  during  which  period  they  will 
give  fair  to  full  crops  of  fruit ; but  of  course  it  must  be 
understood  that,  as  in  our  fruit  orchards,  new  trees  must  be 
set  from  time  to  time  to  replace  those  that  may  be  decayed 
or  blighted.  The  average  crop  of  cocoa  plantations  at  ten 
years  of  age,  and  under  a proper  state  of  cultivation,  will 
amount  to  five  hundred  or  six  hundred  pounds  per  acre. 

The  fruit  or  seed  of  the  cocoa  in  form,  size,  and  color 
is  quite  similar  to  the  almond.  These  seeds  to  the  num- 
ber of  sixty  or  eighty  are  incased  in  a pod  that,  except  in 
color,  is  the  counterpart  of  a young  muskmelon,  being  elon- 
gated and  ribbed  in  the  same  manner.  Its  color  when 
green  is  like  that  of  the  egg-plant,  but  on  ripening  it  as- 
sumes a reddish  hue.  A peculiarity  of  the  cocoa  is  that  it 
bears  “ from  the  ground  up,”  the  trunk  of  the  tree  yielding 
fruit  as  well  as  the  branches.  Upon  ripening,  the  pods 
are  gathered  from  the  tree  and  heaped  in  piles  on  the 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


197 


ground,  where  they  are  left  for  some  days  to  ferment,  after 
which  they  burst  open,  when  the  seed  must  he  shelled  out. 
After  a light  exposure  to  the  sun,  during  which  time  great 
care  must  be  taken  to  protect  them  from  the  rain,  they  are 
sacked  and  ready  for  the  market. 

The  good  people  in  Venezuela  say  that  all  the  best 
cocoa  goes  to  Europe,  and  not  a pound  of  the  El  Criollo  to 
the  United  States.  It  is  a fact  that  you  can  buy  chocolate  in 
New  York  at  the  high-priced  retail  stores  for  about  half  the 
money  that  is  charged  at  the  Caracas  factories.  The  best 
is  eighty  cents  a pound  at  the  factories,  and  the  retailers 
charge  a dollar  for  it.  You  can  get  a good  quality  for 
sixty  and  the  ordinary  for  fifty  cents  a pound.  None  can 
he  had  less  than  that,  while  in  New  York  or  other  cities  of 
the  United  States  it  can  be  bought  at  the  groceries  for 
twenty-five,  thirty,  and  forty  cents  a pound.  The  Caraque- 
nians  say  that  our  manufacturers  cannot  possibly  sell  a 
cake  of  honest  chocolate  for  that  price,  but  adulterate  it 
with  pipe-clay,  flour,  and  other  foreign  substances. 

There  are  very  few  roads  in  the  country,  and  those  are 
only  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  large  cities.  Nine- 
tenths  of  the  interior  transportation  is  done  on  the  backs 
of  donkeys — little  patient  burros,  so  small  and  light  that  a 
man  could  lift  a large  one,  yet  they  are  the  strongest  beasts 
in  the  world  in  proportion  to  their  size,  and  can  carry  all 
that  can  be  packed  upon  them.  Their  limbs  are  not  larger 
than  the  arms  of  a child,  and  their  hoofs  are  about  the  size 
of  a baseball  cut  in  half,  but  they  will  climb  any  mountain- 
path  that  a man  can  scramble  over,  and  are  as  enduring 
and  patient  as  time  itself. 

Two  bags  of  coffee  weighing  one  hundred  pounds  each 
can  be  strapped  on  the  saddle,  and  then  the  owner  will 
mount  and  ride  upon  the  top  of  them,  with  his  legs  hang- 


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ing  down  each  side  of  the  donkey’s  nose.  I have  often 
seen  two  men  and  occasionally  three  on  the  back  of  a 
little  beast  that  would  not  weigh  more  than  any  one  of 
them,  and  it  trotted  along  the  road  as  cheerfully  as  a child 
going  home  from  school.  When  they  carry  sugar-cane 
they  are  loaded  until  you  cannot  see  either  their  legs  or 
neck,  but  only  a little  head  with  bright  eyes  and  nodding 
ears  sticking  out  from  under  a mountain  of  foliage.  The 
natives  strap  a railroad  rail  to  three  or  four  donkeys,  and 
carry  heavy  timber  upon  them,  using  much  ingenuity  and 
skill  in  securing  a proper  balance  and  fastening  the  load. 

As  a usual  thing  the  mozos,  as  the  drivers  are  called, 
are  gentle  and  kind  to  their  animals,  and  not  so  abusive 
as  men  of  other  races.  They  carry  a stick  and  often  beat 
the  load,  or  crack  a whip  violently  if  they  have  one,  but 
you  seldom  see  a donkey  beaten.  The  native  horses  are 
tough  little  bronchos  like  those  of  Texas  and  Colorado, 
with  great  endurance  and  considerable  speed.  They  will 
travel  all  day  without  food  and  water,  and  the  fashion  the 
city  hackmen  have  of  plunging  through  the  narrow  streets 
is  said  to  be  due  to  the  inability  of  the  animals  to  go 
slowly.  No  matter  whether  you  are  driving  “ by  the  job  ” 
or  by  the  hour,  the  horses  are  kept  constantly  at  the  top  of 
their  speed,  and  the  rough  stone  pavements  and  constant 
apprehension  of  collisions  or  other  accidents  rob  a ride  of 
most  of  its  pleasure. 

The  saddle-horses  are  superb.  They  are  trained  to  a 
gentle  amble  called  the  trote  de paueo,  which  is  as  comfortable 
as  a cradle,  and  so  gentle  that  an  experienced  horseman 
can  carry  a full  glass  of  water  in  his  hand  without  spilling 
a drop.  It  is  said  that  this  trote  de  paseo  is  natural,  that 
it  is  inbred,  inherited  from  the  imported  animals  that 
were  ridden  in  the  early  days  when  it  was  the  fashion 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


199 


for  tlie  rider  to  sit  upon  a saddle-cloth  fringed  all  around 
with  tassels  of  silver;  that  the  horses  did  not  like  to  have 
these  ornaments  dangling  against  their  legs,  and  took  a 
mincing  gait  so  as  to  carry  them  with  as  little  motion  as 
possible. 

Horseback  riding  is  very  common.  Nearly  every  gentle- 
man owns  a saddle-horse,  although  I have  never  seen  a 
lady  mounted  in  Venezuela,  except  when  travelling  in  the 
interior,  where  there  are  no  roads  fit  for  carriages.  As 
this  is  the  condition  of  the  greater  part  of  the  country, 
the  people  are  compelled  to  take  to  the  saddle.  I have 
often  seen  young  men  ride  up  to  a barred  window  in 
which  some  fair  senorita  is  sitting  and  chat  with  her,  and 
as  the  windows  are  sometimes  beyond  ordinary  reach,  a 
mounted  lover  has  an  advantage  over  a pedestrian  who 
has  to  do  his  courting  that  way.  And  one  often  sees  beg- 
gars on  horseback. 

There  are  many  handsome  equipages  in  Caracas,  drawn 
by  North  American  horses  in  showy  silver-mounted  harness, 
and  attended  by  liveried  coachmen  and  footmen.  There 
are  livery-stables  also,  at  which  one  can  hire  as  elegant  a 
turnout  as  can  be  obtained  in  New  York  or  Chicago,  with 
attendants  in  livery.  The  hours  for  driving  are  from  four 
to  six  or  a little  later ; but  the  privileges  are  limited,  for 
during  the  dry  season  it  is  usually  too  dusty  to  go  off 
the  city  pavements,  and  during  the  wet  season  there  is  too 
much  mud.  The  only  resorts  then  are  the  Iron  Bridge,  which 
crosses  a little  river  at  one  extremity  of  the  city,  where 
there  are  some  beautiful  palms  and  refreshment  booths,  and 
the  Paseo  Guzman  Blanco  at  the  other  extremity,  which  is 
one  of  the  most  notable  resorts  in  town. 

Guzman  Blanco  made  some  good  roads  leading  to  the 
villages  around  Caracas,  cutting  through  the  hills  or  around 


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their  shoulders  so  as  to  get  easy  grades,  and  building  some 
excellent  stone  bridges.  But  they  are  not  kept  in  repair, 
and  the  weather  is  very  severe  upon  them.  During  the 
rainy  season,  which  lasts  five  or  six  months,  there  is  a heavy 
fall  of  water  daily,  and  the  roads  become  almost  impassable 
because  of  the  mud.  Then  during  the  long  dry  season  the 
mud  becomes  dust,  and  the  wind  carries  it  over  the  country. 
Therefore,  unless  expensive  macadamized  pavement  is  laid 
it  is  difficult  to  keep  a road  in  good  order. 

There  is  a notion  among  the  people  that  the  application 
of  water  to  the  skin,  after  having  been  upon  a journey  or 
when  fatigued  or  when  one  has  been  exposed  to  the  sun, 
is  certain  to  produce  a fever  that  is  likely  to  be  fatal. 
They  say  that  you  must  not  open  the  pores  of  the  skin 
when  you  are  heated  or  tired  or  have  gone  from  one  cli- 
mate to  another,  and  the  great  majority  of  the  natives 
would  consider  it  suicide,  or  at  least  “trifling  with  Provi- 
dence,” to  wash  even  their  hands  and  faces  for  twenty -four 
hours  after  a journey. 

When  I came  off  the  ship  at  La  Guayra,  the  port  of 
Caracas,  I expressed  a desire  to  go  to  Macuto,  a neighboring 
village  where  there  is  fine  surf  bathing,  and  take  a salt-water 
bath.  My  friends,  the  collector  of  the  port,  the  comman- 
dante  or  mayor  of  the  city,  and  even  the  United  States  con- 
sul who  had  lived  there  for  eight  years  and  had  become 
impregnated  with  this  notion,  strongly  protested.  After 
having  been  at  sea  for  nine  days  and  coming  from  a colder 
climate,  such  imprudence  would  result  seriously  if  not  fa- 
tally, and  I must  not  touch  water  until  the  next  day  at 
least.  But  I went  all  the  same,  had  a glorious  plunge  in 
the  surf,  and  came  out  invigorated;  but  the  good  people 
considered  it  a miracle  that  I did  not  die  in  the  hospital. 

Once  I passed  a day  in  the  country  with  a very  estimable 


AGRICULTURE  IN  VENEZUELA 


201 


gentleman,  a native.  The  temperature  was  85°  in  the 
shade,  the  roads  were  dusty,  and  we  came  home  very 
tired.  When  I announced  my  intention  to  take  a bath 
before  going  to  bed,  he  warned  me  in  the  most  earnest  and 
solemn  manner  that  such  an  act  would  certainly  bring  on 
a fever. 

“ When  you  get  to  your  room,”  he  said,  “ rub  your  neck 
and  your  head  with  cana  (the  native  rum),  but  do  not  bathe 
for  twenty-four  hours.  Don’t  even  wash  your  face  and 
hands  until  morning.  It  is  most  dangerous  to  open  the 
pores  of  the  skin  when  you  are  fatigued.” 

But  I had  the  bath,  despite  the  kindly  warning,  and  felt 
none  the  worse  and  much  the  better  for  it.  His  only  com- 
ment was  that  I must  have  a constitution  of  steel,  and  that 
another  time  I would  be  punished  for  violating  the  laws  of 
nature. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 

Like  all  South  American  cities,  Caracas  has  a large  num- 
ber of  churches,  the  supply  being  entirely  out  of  propor- 
tion to  the  population,  and  sufficient  for  a place  of  three 
times  its  size ; but  unlike  most  of  the  other  cities  of  the 
continent,  there  is  not  one  of  handsome  architecture  or 
of  more  than  ordinary  appearance.  The  cathedral  is  in  no 
respect  worthy  of  the  importance  of  the  ecclesiastical  system 
of  which  it  is  the  centre.  If  the  steeple  were  taken  off,  its 
exterior  would  look  like  a jail  or  a fortress,  and  its  interior 
is  as  bare  and  dismal  as  a warehouse.  It  was  originally 
erected  in  1641,  shortly  after  a destructive  earthquake,  and 
its  walls  were  constructed  so  as  to  give  it  more  than  or- 
dinary power  of  resistance  to  subterranean  convulsions. 
Therefore,  it  endured  the  terrible  earthquake  of  1812,  when 
nearly  everything  else  in  the  city  was  destroyed,  and  is  likely 
to  last  forever  unless  some  president  is  patriotic  enough  to 
order  it  torn  down.  As  General  Sheridan  once  said  of  the 
equally  ugly  Pension  Building  at  Washington,  “ Its  greatest 
defect  is  that  it  is  fireproof.” 

The  style  of  architecture  is  said  to  be  Tuscan,  but  I 
should  think  it  could  be  as  properly  classed  in  any  school, 
for  it  certainly  resembles  no  other  structure  in  existence. 
On  the  top  of  the  steeple  stands  a statue  of  Faith — a comely 
figure  which  looks  down  upon  the  principal  plaza  of  the  city 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


203 


undisturbed  by  the  clanging  of  a chime  of  cracked  bells 
that  make  the  most  doleful  sounds  imaginable.  And  they 
strike  even  the  quarter-hours  of  the  clock.  Besides  keep- 
ing the  people  awake  by  striking  the  quarter  - hours  all 
night,  the  bells  commence  to  ring  for  early  mass  at  five 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  on  Sundays  and  saints’  days, 
which  occur  about  three  times  a week,  they  keep  it  up  until 
afternoon ; so  that  persons  accustomed  to  quiet  find  it  as 
difficult  to  sleep  in  the  morning  at  Caracas  as  the  country- 
men who  go  to  New  York  because  of  the  rattle  of  the 
wagons  over  the  pavements.  But  the  residents  of  the  city, 
who  have  been  born  and  raised  to  the  discord  of  the  ca- 
thedral bells,  do  not  seem  to  mind  it. 

The  interior  of  the  cathedral  is  even  uglier  than  the  ex- 
terior, if  such  a thing  is  possible.  It  is  more  like  a dismal 
vault  than  a place  of  worship,  being  a long,  narrow,  dark 
apartment,  which  looks  narrower  than  it  is,  because  of  two 
rows  of  immense  pillars  that  support  the  roof.  The  altar 
is  stretched  across  about  the  centre,  for  half  the  church  is 
amply  sufficient  for  all  purposes,  and  that  is  seldom  filled 
except  on  Easter  and  some  other  great  days.  On  one  side 
is  a row  of  naves,  five  in  number,  like  the  teeth  of  a saw, 
with  the  main  auditorium  as  the  blade. 

In  each  of  the  naves  is  a chapel.  On?  of  them  has  been 
handsomely  fitted  up  as  a memorial  to  some  devotee  whose 
name  is  inscribed  upon  a stained-glass  window;  but  the 
restare  barren.  The  nave  of  the  Sanctissima  Trinidad  con- 
tained the  dust  and  the  monument  of  Simon  Bolivar  until 
they  were  removed  to  the  Pantheon.  Another  nave  is  ded- 
icated to  St.  George,  who  is  the  patron  saint  of  Caracas  as 
well  as  Great  Britain,  but  does  not  appear  to  maintain  har- 
mony among  his  devotees  ; for  nowhere  on  earth,  not  even 
in  Ireland,  are  the  English  people  so  hated  as  in  Venezuela. 


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All  of  the  churches  are  under  the  care  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  have  been  since  Guzman  Blanco  had  a falling-out 
with  the  pope.  This  occurred  in  1876.  Although  born 
and  baptized  a Catholic,  Guzman  was  connected  with  the 
Liberal  Party,  while  the  priests  have  sympathized  with  the 
Conservative  or  Clerical  Party,  as  it  is  often  called.  There- 
fore, when  he  came  into  power  he  expelled  the  Jesuits,  who 
were  the  most  active  of  partisans,  and  the  monks  and  nuns 
were  made  to  follow  soon  after.  The  monastic  and  other 
church  property  was  confiscated  for  the  benefit  of  the  gov- 
ernment, and  the  present  Capitol  stands  upon  the  former 
site  of  one  of  the  largest  convents  in  South  America,  erected 
three  hundred  years  ago.  Other  monasteries  and  convents 
were  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  government  for  various 
purposes,  and  the  church  was  stripped  of  all  it  held  of  value. 
The  parish  schools  were  abolished,  the  civil  rite  of  mar- 
riage was  declared  the  only  legal  form,  the  cemeteries  were 
opened  to  Jews  and  heretics,  and  the  priests  were  deprived 
of  their  power  as  well  as  their  fees. 

But  nominal  relations  between  the  government  and  Rome 
were  continued  until  the  papal  nuncio  and  the  archbishop 
were  expelled  in  1876.  The  27th  of  April  is  the  anniver- 
sary of  the  beginning  of  Guzman  Blanco’s  reign,  and  it  was 
formerly  the  custom  to  celebrate  that  day  with  great  cere- 
monies. In  1876  he  ordered  Archbishop  Guevara  to  sing 
a Te  Deum  at  the  cathedral  to  open  the  festivities,  and 
the  latter  refused  to  do  so.  lie  could  not  bring  himself  to 
utter  a song  of  thanksgiving  that  so  bitter  an  enemy  of  the 
church  as  Guzman  Blanco  had  come  into  power,  especially 
when  the  prisons  were  full  of  good  Catholics,  and  instead 
of  obeying  the  Dictator’s  orders  he  closed  and  barred  the 
doors  of  the  cathedral.  This  made  Guzman  very  angry, 
and  he  expelled  the  archbishop  from  the  country.  The 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


205 


papal  nuncio  went  to  the  palace  to  protest,  and  Guzman 
told  him  that  he  might  go  too.  Then  Guzman  sent  his 
famous  message  to  Congress,  a document  which  doubtless 
gave  him  greater  fame  than  any  other  he  ever  wrote.  In 
this  he  said : 

“ I have  taken  upon  myself  the  responsibility  of  declar- 
ing the  Church  of  Venezuela  independent  of  the  Roman 
Episcopate,  and  ask  that  you  further  order  that  parish  priests 
shall  be  elected  by  the  people,  the  bishop  by  the  rectors  of 
the  parish,  and  the  archbishops  by  Congress,  returning  to 
the  uses  of  the  primitive  church  founded  by  Jesus  Christ 
and  his  apostles.  Such  a law  will  not  only  resolve  the 
clerical  question,  but  will  be  besides  a grand  example  for 
the  Christian  Church  of  republican  America,  hindered  in 
her  march  towards  liberty,  order,  and  progress  by  the  pol- 
icy, always  retrograde,  of  the  Roman  Church  ; and  the  civ- 
ilized world  will  see  in  this  act  the  most  characteristic  and 
palpable  sign  of  advance  in  the  regeneration  of  Venezuela. 

“ Guzman  Blanco.” 

To  this  the  Congress  replied  : 

“Faithful  to  our  duties,  faithful  to  our  convictions,  and 
faithful  to  the  holv  dogmas  of  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ, 
of  that  great  Being  who  conserved  the  world's  freedom 
with  His  blood,  we  do  not  hesitate  to  emancipate  the 
Church  of  Venezuela  from  that  episcopacy  which  pretends, 
as  an  infallible  and  omnipotent  power,  to  absorb  from 
Rome  the  vitality  of  a free  people,  the  beliefs  of  our  con- 
science, and  the  noble  aspirations  and  destinies  which  per- 
tain to  us  as  component  parts  of  the  great  human  family. 
Congress  offers  your  excellency  and  will  give  you  all  the 
aid  you  seek  to  preserve  the  honor  and  the  right  of  our  na- 


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tion,  and  announces  now,  witli  patriotic  pleasure,  that  it  has 
already  begun  to  elaborate  the  law  which  your  excellency 
asks  it  to  frame.” 

This  declaration  of  independence  caused  a great  sen- 
sation all  over  Spanish  America.  It  was  the  first  official 
repudiation  of  the  authority  of  Rome  by  any  of  the  repub- 
lics, although  several  of  them  have  since  followed  the  ex- 
ample of  Venezuela.  And  until  now  the  relations  between 
the  government  and  the  head  of  the  church  have  not  been 
renewed. 

The  fashionable  churches  of  Caracas  are  dedicated  to 
Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Merced  (the  Blessed  Mother  of  Mercy) 
and  to  Santa  Teresa.  The  former  is  the  most  modern  and 
recent  ecclesiastical  structure  in  the  city,  and  the  only  one 
in  which  architectural  rules  and  proportions  have  been  re- 
garded. Being  situated  in  the  new  portion  of  the  town, 
where  the  residences  of  the  wealth}'  people  are,  it  is  at- 
tended by  most  of  the  aristocracy.  Years  ago,  before  Cara- 
cas was  modernized,  there  used  to  be  a very  pretty  custom 
in  vogue  at  this  church. 

The  Mother  of  Mercy  is  the  patron  saint  of  maidens,  and 
all  over  Spanish  America  her  anniversary  is  celebrated  by 
them.  In  some  places  processions  of  young  girls  march  to 
the  church  on  her  day  and  decorate  it  with  lilies,  the  flow- 
ers that  have  been  chosen  as  the  ideal  of  purity.  At  other 
places  it  is  a beautiful  custom  for  brides,  the  evening  before 
their  marriage,  to  kneel  before  the  altar  of  Santa  Mercedes, 
and  suj:>plicate  the  blessing  of  the  immaculate  mother. 
And  again,  elsewhere  on  the  anniversary  of  this  saint, 
young  girls  are  in  the  habit  of  writing  letters,  as  children 
in  the  Northern  countries  write  to  Santa  Claus  before  Christ- 
mas, telling  her  what  presents  they  want — dolls  and  new 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


207 


dresses  and  sweetmeats.  These  letters  are  laid  upon  lier 
altar  by  the  maidens  and  returned  to  their  parents  by  the 
priests,  so  that  the  petitions  may  be  answered.  These  cus- 
toms are  no  longer  observed  in  Caracas,  but  are  still  found 
in  some  of  the  interior  towns,  and  there  is  nearly  always  a 
church  to  this  popular  saint  in  every  place  of  size. 

Santa  Teresa  is  situated  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  city, 
and  has  a portion  of  the  aristocracy  among  its  attendants. 
This  is  the  church  which  Guzman  Blanco’s  family  attended 
wdien  they  were  in  the  city,  and  he  worshipped  there  when 
he  worshipped  at  all,  which  was  not  often.  It  is  there,  too, 
that  he  appears  among  the  apostles,  as  Napoleon  I.  does 
among  the  saints  and  martyrs  whose  statues  crown  the 
minarets  of  the  great  cathedral  at  Milan.  Napoleon  fur- 
nished the  money  to  complete  that,  the  most  beautiful 
building  in  the  world,  and  the  builders  honored  him  by  giv- 
ing him  a niche. 

Santa  Teresa  is  the  only  church  that  Guzman  repaired 
during  his  long  administration.  He  spent  a good  deal  of 
money  upon  it,  extending  its  walls  and  erecting  a consider- 
able addition,  in  the  vestibule  of  which  appears  the  inevita- 
ble tablet,  inscribed  as  follows  : 

The  Illustrious  American, 

General  Guzman  Blanco, 
directed  the  extension  of  this  temple, 

April  3,  1873. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  church  is  a second  tablet  embedded 
in  the  wall,  which  reads  : 

Basilica  de  Santa  Anna. 

Erected  and  decorated  by 
The  Illustrious  American, 

General  Guzman  Blanco, 
and  dedicated  during  his  administration, 

April  27,  1880. 


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VENEZUELA 


There  are  many  benevolent  institutions  in  Caracas,  asy- 
lums and  hospitals,  well  managed  and  well  supported  by 
charity  and  subsidies  from  the  treasury.  The  general  hos- 
pital, La  Casa  de  Beneficencia,  is  one  of  the  best  in  all 
South  America.  All  cemeteries  are  called  Campo  Santa 
— sacred  field.  Throughout  the  city,  in  all  the  churches, 
hotels,  and  public  buildings,  attached  to  the  outer  walls  of 
houses  upon  the  most  frequented  thoroughfares,  are  iron 
boxes  for  charitable  contributions,  which  are  inscribed : 

God  blesses  the  hands  that  drop  alms  here  for  the  sick  and  poor. 

The  hospitals  and  other  institutions  of  charity  have  for 
many  years  been  conducted  by  persons  appointed  by  the 
president  or  the  minister  of  education,  who  has  them  under 
his  charge,  and  such  places  have  ordinarily  been  used  to 
reward  political  services ; but  when  Kojas-Paul  was  presi- 
dent he  decided  to  introduce  a reform  in  this  respect,  and 
sent  Amenodoro  Irdancta,  editor  of  the  Catholic  weekly  pa- 
per called  El  Iris  (le  la  Fe  (“  The  Rainbow  of  the  Faith  ”), 
to  Spain  and  Rome  to  secure  the  services  of  a company 
of  Sisters  of  Charity.  A contract  was  made  with  them  to 
take  charge  of  the  public  benevolent  institutions  at  a given 
price  for  a term  of  ten  years,  and  they  were  the  first  nuns 
seen  in  the  country  since  Guzman  Blanco  expelled  the  relig- 
ious orders  in  1873. 

Since  he  drove  out  the  monks  at  that  time  the  priests 
have  been  educated  at  the  National  University,  supported 
by  the  government,  where  the  doctrine  of  infallibility  has 
been  repudiated;  but  the  Catholic  organ  alluded  to  above, 
and  some  of  the  secular  papers  which  lean  towards  the  Cler- 
ical Party,  have  been  advocating  the  importation  of  ortho- 
dox professors  for  this  school  from  Rome  and  foreign 
priests  for  the  churches.  This  looks  like  a restoration  of 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


200 


the  church  to  its  former  influence,  but  it  is  not  popular 
among  the  people,  especially  the  educated  men  and  the  in- 
tellectual coterie  who  compose  the  directorate  and  the  fac- 
ulties of  the  University. 

Notwithstanding  the  powerful  influence  of  the  priests, 
they  are  the  objects  of  ridicule  and  derision.  Most  of  the 
cartoons  in  the  comic  papers  are  directed  at  their  faults  and 
foibles,  and  the  wits  of  the  country  make  them  the  targets 
of  their  humor.  Three  funny  anecdotes  out  of  five  in  the 
ordinary  newspaper  will  refer  to  parish  padres.  They  wear 
long  black  robes,  which  hang  to  their  heels  and  are  bound 
at  the  waist  with  a girdle,  and  black-silk  scoop-shovel  hats, 
which  in  the  United  States  are  only  seen  upon  the  comic- 
opera  stage.  The  students  in  the  theological  school  of  the 
University  adopt  this  costume  when  they  are  matriculated, 
and  continue  to  wear  it  wherever  they  go,  even  on  vacation, 
as  the  young  officers  of  the  army  always  appear  in  uniform, 
whether  on  or  off  duty.  The  Bishop  of  Caracas  goes  about 
the  city  in  his  purple  robes,  and  is  generally  attended  by 
his  private  secretary  or  some  companion.  lie  never  ap- 
pears alone,  even  when  he  is  walking. 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  an  odd-shaped  structure 
which  adjoins  the  University  on  the  east,  and  was  the  chapel 
of  the  monks  who  formerly  occupied  that  building,  has  re- 
cently been  restored  and  put  in  good  order  at  public  ex- 
pense. At  this  church  the  army  is  required  to  attend  mass 
once  a week,  by  order  of  the  president.  After  early  dress 
parade  on  Sunday  morning  the  troops  in  the  garrison  at 
Caracas  are  marched  down  in  uniform,  with  their  swords 
and  their  guns,  to  perform  religious  duties. 

Here  also  was  recently  resurrected  an  effigy  of  the  Saviour, 
to  which  is  attributed  miraculous  powers.  The  casket  is  made 
of  tortoise-shell,  beautifully  carved  and  set  in  solid  silver, 
u 


210 


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with  panels  of  plate-glass  through  which  the  image  can  be 
seen.  It  was  formerly  a much-revered  object  of  worship, 
and  the  source  of  considerable  revenue  for  the  priests,  who 
played  upon  the  superstitions  of  the  people,  and  taught 
them  to  believe  that  it  would  heal  disease  and  relieve  dis- 
tress provided  offerings  of  value  were  made  and  vows  said. 
Guzman  Blanco,  who  hated  such  sixteenth-century  notions, 
stopped  the  proceedings  and  ordered  the  image  out  of  the 
church. 

There  is  another  effigy  in  the  same  church  which  is  also 
said  to  have  miraculous  power — an  image  of  Nuestra  Se- 
nora  de  la  Soledad.  It  is  a copy  of  one  that  stands  in  a 
church  at  Seville,  Spain,  and  was  ordered  by  a rich  Ven- 
ezuelan named  Don  Juan  del  Coro.  It  was  shipped  on 
board  a galleon,  which,  while  crossing  the  Atlantic,  was 
caught  in  a terrible  gale,  and  this  image,  with  other  parts 
of  the  cargo,  was  cast  overboard  to  lighten  her.  A few 
days  before  the  ship  reached  La  Guayra  some  men  who 
were  working  on  the  shore  found  a box  that  appeared  to 
have  been  cast  up  by  the  sea.  Upon  opening  it  they  dis- 
covered a marble  statue  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  which  they 
took  to  town.  When  the  captain  arrived  he  identified  it 
as  the  one  he  had  thrown  overboard  in  the  middle  of  the 
Atlantic  a few  weeks  before,  and  was  so  amazed  at  the 
miracle  that  he  at  once  fell  upon  his  knees,  asked  pardon 
for  his  manifold  sins,  and  became  a priest,  although  he 
had  been  a desperate  character  before.  Don  Juan  del 
Coro,  who  had  ordered  and  paid  for  the  image,  also  identi- 
fied it.  It  was  taken  to  Caracas  and  lifted  to  the  altar  of 
the  Church  of  San  Francisco,  where  it  has  since  re- 
mained. 

There  is  still  another  miracle-working  image  in  this  city 
which  has  an  even  more  curious  history.  A young  peas- 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


211 


ant,  having  been  unjustly  accused  of  crime,  fled  to  the 
mountains,  and  there  prayed  earnestly  to  the  Blessed  Vir- 
gin of  Consolation  that  she  would  intercede  in  his  behalf, 
and  protect  him  from  being  punished  for  another  man’s 
offences.  After  a while  he  noticed  upon  the  ground  before 
him  a flat  stone,  which  appeared  to  hear  upon  its  surface  a 
picture  of  the  mother  of  God.  lie  picked  it  up,  offered 
his  prayers  to  it,  and  then,  feeling  that  he  was  safe,  re- 
turned to  the  city,  carrying  the  stone  with  him,  which  he 
gave  to  a woman  who  had  kindly  offered  him  shelter  and 
food,  lie  pointed  out  to  her  the  likeness  to  the  Blessed 
Virgin,  but  at  first  she  could  not  see  it.  She  placed  the 
stone  upon  the  altar  in  her  chamber,  however,  and  every 
day  by  some  miraculous  agency  the  lines  grew  deeper  until 
the  representation  was  complete.  The  peon,  upon  his  re- 
turn, learned  that  the  guilty  man  had  been  detected,  and, 
strangely  enough,  at  the  identical  moment  that  he  had 
found  the  stone. 

This  image  now  sits  upon  an  altar  in  a private  house  in 
Caracas,  surrounded  by  gifts  of  great  value,  and  is  visited 
daily  by  people  who  are  ill  or  in  distress.  They  believe 
that  by  bringing  votive  offerings  and  making  prayers  this 
Virgin  gives  them  miraculous  relief.  If  they  are  not  re- 
lieved, it  is  because  their  offerings  are  not  of  sufficient 
value.  If  they  give  all  they  have  the  failure  is  due  to 
lack  of  faith. 

Passing  along  the  country  roads  in  Venezuela  you  will 
see  rudely  painted  inscriptions  over  the  entrances  to  the 
houses,  which  read  like  this : 

“ La  Patrona  de  esta  casa  es  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  la  Merced,”  or 

“ La  Patrona  de  esta  casa  es  Xuestra  Senora  de  la  Inmaculada  Con- 
cepcion,” or 

“ El  Tatron  de  esta  casa  es  San  Juan  de  Baptista.” 


212 


VENEZUELA 


These  mean  that  the  patron  saint  of  those  who  dwell 
within  is  “ the  Blessed  Lady  of  Mercy,”  or  “ the  Blessed 
Lady  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,”  or  “St.  John  the 
Baptist.” 

The  public  men  of  the  country  are  ready  to  encourage 
and  sustain  Protestantism,  not  from  any  religious  convic- 
tions of  their  own,  but  because  they  see  the  retarding  influ- 
ences of  the  Catholic  Church  in  the  development  of  the 
country.  The  priests  from  the  beginning  have  stood  in 
the  way  of  progress,  have  opposed  modern  innovations, 
and  have  been  particularly  antagonistic  to  the  educational 
system.  The  tendency  of  the  schools  and  the  educated 
men  of  the  country  has  been  towards  materialism  for  the 
last  twenty  years.  Nearly  every  one  of  the  professors  in 
the  University  is  an  agnostic,  or  at  least  a materialist,  and 
their  influence  is  great.  The  men  of  the  country,  except- 
ing the  peasants,  do  not  attend  church  except  upon  special 
occasions ; and  while  they  assent  to  it,  many  do  not  be- 
lieve in  the  Catholic  faith.  The  immorality  of  the  priests 
and  their  cpiestionable  practices  will  not  permit  an  intelli- 
gent man  to  do  so ; but  the  common  people,  the  masses, 
are  intensely  religious  and  superstitious.  Whatever  may  be 
the  policy  of  the  government  towards  the  Vatican,  nothing 
can  shake  them  from  the  faith  in  which  they  were  born,  or 
impair  their  reverence  for  the  often  dissolute  and  nearly 
alwavs  ignorant  padres  of  their  parishes.  Therefore,  the 
work  of  Protestant  missionaries  must  necessarily  be  among 
the  educated  classes — among  the  men  who  reason.  There 
is  in  Venezuela  a most  inviting  field  for  clergymen  of  edu- 
cation and  intellectual  force  who  can  speak  the  Spanish 
language,  and  the  same  conditions  exist  throughout  the 
country.  It  is  a wonder  to  me  that  the  missionary  organ- 
izations in  the  United  States  do  not  occupy  it.  A dozen 


RELIGION  IN  CARACAS 


213 


churches  might  be  organized  in  Venezuela  at  once,  and 
within  a few  years  every  one  of  them  would  be  self-sus- 
taining. The  American  colony  at  Caracas  would  readily 
contribute  at  least  one  hundred  dollars  a month  at  once  to 
the  support  of  a settled  pastor,  and  in  time  this  would  be 
doubled,  without  a doubt. 

Freemasonry  was  introduced  into  the  country  by  Guzman 
Blanco,  who  with  several  of  his  retinue  was  initiated  at 
New  York  when  he  visited  that  city  in  1882,  and  has  since 
taken  several  degrees.  There  are  now  two  lodges,  with 
about  a thousand  members,  in  Caracas.  The  Dictator,  who 
never  did  things  by  halves,  presented  them  with  a hand- 
some temple,  which  has  become  the  centre  of  much  influ- 
ence, political  as  well  as  social  and  commercial — quite  as 
great  as  the  Club  Union,  a social  organization  of  consid- 
erable exclusiveness. 


CHAPTER  XVII 


ALONG  THE  SPANISH  MAIN 

Tiie  country  along  the  Spanisli  Main,  from  Trinidad  to 
the  isthmus,  is  a mixture  of  Florida  and  Switzerland,  where 
one  can  find  within  a single  day’s  journey  any  climate  or 
scene  to  suit  his  taste,  from  a tropical  jungle  swarming 
with  tigers  and  alligators  to  mountain-crests  crowned  with 
eternal  snow.  Down  in  the  southwestern  part  of  Venezuela 
and  eastern  Colombia  the  Andes  Mountains  and  the  twin 
range,  the  Cordilleras,  forming  a double  spinal  column  for 
the  continent,  split  and  scatter,  and  finally  jump  into  the 
sea.  At  the  very  edge  of  the  ocean,  within  plain  view 
from  the  decks  of  passing  vessels,  rise  peaks  which  reach 
above  the  clouds,  whose  snow-capped  summits  seem  to 
hang  in  the  air.  One  of  them,  the  Nevada  de  la  Santa 
Marta,  is  17,500  feet  high,  and  affords  one  of  the  most  im- 
pressive pictures  that  can  be  imagined.  The  tourist  is 
always  incredulous  when  the  peak  is  pointed  out  to  him, 
for  its  shape  is  so  much  like  a bank  of  clouds;  but  you 
are  finally  compelled  to  admit  the  truth  of  geography,  for 
clouds  do  not  stand  transfixed  in  the  sky,  unchangeable 
and  immovable,  like  this  phenomenon. 

Between  these  mountains,  along  the  coast,  are  narrow 
valleys  of  the  most  luxurious  tropical  verdure  and  the  rich- 
est soil,  which  yield  three  harvests  annually,  and  are  dense- 
ly populated. 


ALONG  THE  SPANISH  MAIN 


215 


Iii  one  of  them,  about  three  days’  journey  from  Caracas, 
lies  the  beautiful  city  of  Valencia  and  the  remarkable  lake 
of  the  same  name,  near  which  was  fought  the  battle  of 
Carabobo,  which  marked  the  end  of  monarchical  power  on 
the  northern  coast  of  South  America.  A monument  com- 
memorating this,  the  final  fight  in  the  war  for  independence, 
was  recently  erected  in  Valencia,  and  dedicated  with  im- 
pressive ceremonies.  The  wagon-road  from  Caracas  to  Va- 
lencia crosses  the  mountains,  and  the  scenery  is  very  fine. 
One  of  the  towns  to  be  visited  is  Victoria,  where  Bolivar 
at  one  time  lived,  and  where  many  relics  of  him  may  be 
seen.  There  is  a diligence  from  Caracas,  or  one  may  hire 
his  own  conveyance,  or  go  on  horseback,  which  is  by  far 
the  most  comfortable  and  enjoyable  way.  The  Venezuelan 
horses  are  trained  to  an  easy  gait,  and  one  can  remain  in 
the  saddle  half  a day  without  becoming  as  tired  as  he 
would  be  after  an  hour’s  experience  with  one  of  our  rough, 
slipping  steeds. 

A railway  is  now  under  construction,  by  a German  syndi- 
cate, from  Caracas  to  Valencia,  passing  to  the  northward  of 
the  lake,  and  an  English  company  is  constructing  a line 
around  its  southern  shores  which  will  run  almost  parallel  to 
the  other  road  for  most  of  the  distance  between  the  two 
cities.  When  the  tracks  are  laid  it  will  be  only  a short 
day’s  ride.  These  roads  will  open  to  commerce  one  of  the 
richest  districts  in  Venezuela,  which  is  now  sparsely  settled, 
but  is  capable  of  sustaining  an  enormous  population  and 
producing  unlimited  tons  of  coffee,  cocoa,  and  sugar.  Lib- 
eral inducements  are  offered  by  the  government  to  colonies 
and  individual  settlers;  lands  are  given  free,  and  a small 
amount  of  money  monthly  to  sustain  the  immigrant  until 
his  first  crop  can  be  harvested. 

xMthough  the  overland  route  to  Valencia  presents  the 


216 


VENEZUELA 


greatest  attraction  to  the  tourist  and  the  lover  of  sublime 
scenery,  business  men  and  others  who  are  in  haste  go  by 
sea,  for  the  latter  journey  is  less  expensive,  and  can  be 
made  by  night.  One  can  leave  Caracas  by  the  railroad  at 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  every  two  or  three  days 
in  the  week  find  a steamer  at  La  Guayra.  He  can  dine  on 
board,  and  the  next  morning  enter  the  beautiful,  historic 
old  harbor  of  Puerto  Cabello,  from  which  the  ride  by  rail 
to  Valencia  is  only  thirty  miles.  The  harbor  is  called  El 
Golfo  Triste  (The  Gulf  of  Tears),  because  in  olden  times  it 
was  frequently  visited  by  terrible  scourges,  and  the  bottom 
of  the  bay  is  said  to  be  literally  covered  with  the  bones  of 
those  who  have  been  heaved  overboard  for  lack  of  a better 
place  to  bury  them.  The  ghost  of  that  most  famous  of  all 
freebooters,  Sir  Francis  Drake,  haunts  the  place,  for  he 
died  here  of  yellow-fever.  Cut  there  is  less  danger  of 
fever  there  now,  for  the  swamps  that  used  to  surround 
the  city  have  been  drained,  and  sanitary  precautions  have 
been  introduced  which  make  it  one  of  the  healthiest  places 
on  the  coast. 

The  place  is  called  Puerto  Cabello  (the  Port  of  the  Hair), 
on  the  pretence  that  ships  are  so  safe  in  its  harbor  as  to  be 
tied  with  a single  hair  to  their  moorings.  This  is  some- 
what exasperated,  but  nevertheless  the  harbor  is  the  best 
on  the  Spanish  Main,  and  has  such  abrupt  banks  that  a ves- 
sel can  be  run  up  against  the  shore  anywhere  to  take  on  her 
cargo.  The  frowning  old  fortress  that  guards  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor  is  of  ancient  date,  having  been  constructed 
by  the  Spaniards  three  centuries  ago  to  protect  the  ships 
and  the  city  against  the  raids  of  the  pirates  that  haunted 
the  Spanish  Main.  At  the  beginning  of  the  war  for  inde- 
pendence Simon  Bolivar,  then  only  twenty-six  years  old, 
was  placed  in  command  of  this  fort  by  General  Miranda, 


ALONG  THE  SPANISH  MAIN 


217 


and  under  his  charge  were  nearly  all  the  arras  and  ammuni- 
tion that  had  been  accumulated  by  the  revolutionists,  as 
well  as  two  thousand  prisoners.  Among  the  latter  were 
many  of  the  Spanish  colonial  officials  and  leading  citizens 
of  the  country  who  sympathized  with  the  king.  Bolivar 
had  but  a small  garrison  of  young  and  inexperienced  men 
like  himself,  and  one  of  them,  turning  traitor,  released  the 
prisoners,  who  quickly  seized  the  arms  and  overcame  their 
guards.  Bolivar  made  his  escape  almost  miraculously. 
Dropping  into  the  bay,  he  swam  ashore,  and  made  his  way 
to  a hacienda  or  plantation  near  the  city,  where  he  was  con- 
cealed for  several  weeks.  This  was  a sad  blow  to  the  pa- 
triots, and  postponed  independence  for  several  years. 

Puerto  Cabello  is  a busy  place,  and  the  second  port  in 
commerce  in  Venezuela.  It  has  about  7000  inhabitants, 
who  are  all  engaged  in  the  counting-rooms  of  the  exporters 
and  importers,  in  the  warehouses,  and  upon  the  docks. 
Steamships  of  eight  different  lines  visit  the  place  regularly, 
making  about  four  or  five  arrivals  and  departures  every 
week,  and  there  is  direct  communication  with  England, 
France,  Germany,  Holland,  and  the  United  States,  as  well  as 
with  the  West  India  islands  and  the  ports  along  the  Spanish 
Main.  Many  sailing-vessels  come  here  also  from  all  parts 
of  the  world  laden  with  supplies  for  the  large  area  in  the 
interior,  of  which  this  is  the  entrepot,  and  carry  away  car- 
goes of  coffee.  The  latter  is  the  staple  of  the  country,  and 
about  fifteen  million  pounds  are  shipped  annually  from 
Puerto  Cabello.  The  stores  are  large,  and  filled  with  every 
possible  variety  of  goods,  but  the  business  is  controlled  by 
a few  houses.  There  are  some  pleasant  residences,  a pretty 
park,  and  an  interesting  market,  but  most  people  prefer  to 
live  at  Valencia,  or  in  the  suburban  towns  that  lie  upon  the 
mountain’s  breast. 


218 


VENEZUELA 


San  Esteban,  a suburban  village  six  miles  away  in  the 
foot-hills,  is  one  of  the  loveliest  of  places,  and  is  reached 
by  a comfortable  carriage-road.  It  is  composed  mostly  of 
German  families,  who  have  comfortable  and  picturesque 
villas  surrounded  by  luxuriant  tropical  foliage  and  forests 
of  monstrous  trees. 

The  railroad  to  Valencia  belongs  to  an  English  corpora- 
tion. Until  it  was  open  to  traffic  the  people  were  in  the 
habit  of  sending  all  their  merchandise  between  the  seaport 
and  the  interior  in  ox-carts  or  upon  the  backs  of  burros — 
patient  little  donkeys  who  bear  bigger  loads  than  Bunyan’s 
Pilgrim,  and  never  murmur.  Travellers  were  compelled  to 
use  the  same  mode  of  transportation.  Strange  as  it  may 
appear,  many  prefer  to  do  so  still.  Rather  than  patronize 
the  railroad  and  ride  for  an  hour  and  a half  in  a comforta- 
ble car,  they  will  rise  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  mount 
a miserable  little  donkey,  and  ride  all  day  long  through 
clouds  of  dust  and  under  a burning  sun,  reach  Puerto 
Cabello  in  a condition  of  complete  exhaustion  sometime 
about  midnight,  and  take  the  steamer  next  day.  The 
reader  will  exclaim,  “What  fools!”  and  ask  why.  The 
only  explanation  is  that  stubborn  adherence  to  custom  that 
marks  the  Spanisli-American  race.  Of  course  the  educated 
people  do  not  do  this.  They  welcomed  the  railroad,  and 
did  everything  in  their  power  to  encourage  its  construction; 
but  among  the  common  people  there  is  persistent  antago- 
nism to  all  innovations.  They  want  to  do  as  their  fathers 
and  grandfathers  did,  and  ask  no  better  accommodations 
or  greater  conveniences.  Some  of  them,  too,  are  afraid  of 
the  cars.  They  do  not  like  to  travel  so  swiftly.  In  order 
to  familiarize  them  with  the  railroad,  and  accustom  them  to 
its  use,  the  manager  gave  a series  of  free  excursions  from 
Valencia  to  Puerto  Cabello  and  return  every  Sunday,  and 


ALONG  THE  SPANISH  MAIN 


219 


carried  without  charge  as  many  as  were  willing  to  go.  At 
first  the  trains  were  very  light,  but  those  who  had  the  au- 
dacity to  attempt  the  experiment  brought  back  such  favor- 
able reports  that  later  the  cars  were  crowded,  and  the  people 
began  to  use  them  for  business  as  well  as  pleasure. 

But  the  old  fogies  still  shake  their  heads  ominously,  and 
look  with  suspicion  upon  such  new-fangled  inventions  as 
locomotives  and  passenger-cars.  And  long  trains  of  carts 
and  burros  pass  up  and  down  the  wagon-road  daily,  for 
there  are  many  merchants  who  still  prefer  to  send  their 
freight  that  wav,  although  the  railroad  rates  are  lower. 

Valencia  is  the  prettiest  city  in  Venezuela,  and  is  begin- 
ning to  show  signs  of  progress.  It  has  the  best  hotel  in 
the  republic,  two  well-patronized  telephone  companies,  and 
is  now  lighted  with  electricity.  All  of  these  improvements 
have  been  introduced  by  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
The  cathedral  is  much  more  imposing  than  that  at  Caracas, 
and  its  graceful  towers  rise  from  a mass  of  foliage  like 
shafts  of  alabaster. 

The  climate,  like  that  of  Caracas,  is  salubrious — a per- 
petual spring.  During  the  hours  of  noon  the  sun  is  op- 
pressive, and  the  people  use  them  for  rest,  dividing  their 
sleep  into  two  portions;  but  thn  morning  air  is  cool  and 
invigorating,  and  every  afternoon  a breeze  springs  up  which 
fans  the  heated  walls  and  renews  the  life  of  all  animated 
nature.  There  is  no  city  in  all  the  tropics  more  beautiful 
than  Valencia  or  more  picturesquely  situated.  The  moun- 
tains that  surround  it  are  massive  and  sublime,  and  the 
soil  of  the  valleys  they  enclose  is  said  to  be  the  richest  in 
the  world. 

An  iron  rod  has  been  driven  down  sixty  feet  through 
the  black  loam  without  touching  bottom,  and  the  quality  of 
the  soil  may  be  judged  by  the  fact  that  sugar-cane  planta- 


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tions  yield  sixty  harvests  without  a renewal  of  the  plants. 
The  extreme  depth  and  richness  of  the  soil  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  this  valley  within  the  last  five  centuries  was  en- 
tirely covered  by  the  lalce,  and  received  the  loose  soil  of 
the  mountain-sides  which  was  swept  off  by  the  heavy  rains 
and  streams. 

The  Lake  of  Valencia,  called  Lago  de  Tacarigua  in  local 
parlance,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  natural  phenom- 
ena, and  to  it  the  famous  Humboldt  devoted  much  study 
when  he  visited  Venezuela  in  the  early  part  of  this  century. 
Its  waters  have  decreased  with  great  rapidity  since  the  set- 
tlement of  the  country  by  the  Spaniards.  Then  the  city 
was  founded  upon  its  banks,  but  it  continued  to  recede,  as  it 
had  been  doing  for  centuries  before,  and  at  the  time  of 
Humboldt’s  visit  in  1810  its  shores  were  three  miles  from 
the  cathedral.  Now  they  are  six  miles  away.  Humboldt 
makes  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  thirty  miles;  now  it  is 
only  twenty-three,  and  to  the  list  of  islands  he  described 
seven  have  been  added,  which  the  receding  waters  have 
laid  bare  during  the  last  eighty  years.  But  the  lake  has 
a queer  trick  of  swelling  during  the  wet  season,  and  grow- 
ing smaller  again  when  the  rains  cease. 

The  country  back  of  Valencia  is  practically  uninhabited, 
and  portions  of  it  are  unexplored.  To  the  westward  along 
the  coast,  at  frequent  intervals,  are  little  towns  and  mines 
of  silver  and  copper,  but  no  places  of  importance  until 
Maracaibo  is  reached.  This  is  a city  of  some  thirty  thou- 
sand inhabitants  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  of  the  same 
name,  to  which  the  “ Red  D ” company  runs  a small  steamer 
to  connect  at  Caracas  with  their  New  York  line,  making 
the  passage  in  twenty-four  hours. 

Lake  Maracaibo  is  entered  from  the  Gulf  of  Venezuela  by 
a strait  some  twenty  miles  long  and  from  five  to  ten  miles 


ALONG  THE  SPANISH  MAIN 


221 


wide,  which  is  a part  of  itself.  From  where  it  broadens, 
near  the  city,  the  lake  is  about  a hundred  miles  long  north 
and  south,  and  nearly  seventy  miles  wide  in  its  widest  part. 
By  the  rivers  from  Colombia  and  by  mule-roads  to  the  lake 
a large  transportation  business  is  kept  up  through  the  lake 
to  Maracaibo,  augmented  by  the  aid  of  native  productions 
from  the  numerous  points  of  water  tributary  from  Vene- 
zuela. 

Among  the  noteworthy  public  buildings  are  the  Palace 
of  the  Governor,  the  Federal  College  Building,  the  custom- 
house, the  court-house  or  palace  of  justice,  the  public 
market,  several  churches,  a theatre,  etc.  There  are  about 
ten  miles  of  street  railways,  two  telephone  companies,  an 
electric-light  plant,  several  benevolent  institutions,  orphan 
asylums,  a bank,  and  other  establishments  of  note  and 
worth,  so  that  the  city  is  not  behind  its  sisters  in  evidences 
of  cultivation,  convenience,  and  progress. 

Strangers,  particularly  visitors  from  the  United  States, 
are  always  welcomed  with  cordial  hospitality  in  Venezuela, 
and  if  they  come  well  introduced  are  at  once  admitted  to 
the  homes  of  the  best  people.  Many  of  the  Caraquenians, 
as  the  citizens  of  Caracas  are  called,  have  been  educated  in 
the  United  States  and  found  wives  there,  so  that  the  Amer- 
ican colony  is  large  and  flourishing. 

Beyond  Maracaibo  is  the  town  of  Santa  Marta,  behind 
which  rises  the  Nevada  peak,  the  tallest  on  the  Caribbean 
coast.  Santa  Marta  is  the  most  easterly  port  of  Colombia. 
It  was  there  that  Bolivar  took  refuge  when  Paez  drove  him 
into  exile,  and  there  he  died.  Back  of  Santa  Marta  in  the 
mountains  is  a town  famous  only  for  its  name.  There  are 
two  cities  named  Santa  Tomas  in  Colombia,  and  this  one 
was  always  loyal  to  the  Spanish  crown  through  the  twenty- 
seven  years  of  revolution.  Therefore,  with  indignant  irony, 


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the  Spaniards  distinguished  it  from  the  other  place  by  call- 
ing it  Santa  Tomas  de  la  Cabelleros  (St.  Thomas  the  Gen- 
tleman). 

The  voyage  along  the  Spanish  Main  to  Aspinwall  is 
pleasant  and  interesting,  but  one  cares  to  see  but  little  of 
the  latter  place,  for  it  is  continually  haunted  by  the  Chagres 
fever,  is  filled  with  the  most  degraded  men  and  women  on 
earth  of  all  races  and  conditions,  and  few  people  live  there 
who  are  not  compelled  to  do  so.  You  can  take  a steam- 
launch  and  ride  to  the  excavations  of  the  De  Lesseps  canal, 
see  where  millions  of  money  have  been  wasted,  and  realize 
at  a single  glance  that  the  greatest  artificial  work  ever  at- 
tempted on  earth  will  never  be  completed  in  this  genera- 
tion, or  any  other,  for  that  matter ; and  then  you  can  take 
a drive  along  the  beach  and  see  the  alligators,  but  there 
is  little  else  of  interest.  Steamers  leave  for  New  York 
once  a week,  and  you  can  go  across  to  New  Orleans  in 
five  days,  but  the  ships  that  take  that  route  are  not  so 
comfortable  as  those  on  the  former. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 

There  is  no  convenient  way  of  getting  from  Caracas  to 
the  Orinoco  country  except  by  sea.  Of  course  one  can 
“ cut  across  lots,”  and  many  people,  armies  indeed,  have 
gone  that  way  ; but  it  is  a long,  tedious,  and  difficult  jour- 
ney, and  dangerous  at  times,  because  of  the  mountains  to  be 
climbed,  the  forests  to  be  penetrated,  the  rivers  to  be  forded, 
and  the  trackless  swamps.  To  a naturalist  the  trip  is  full 
of  fascinations,  for  the  trail  leads  through  a region  prolific 
with  rare  and  curious  forms  of  vegetable  and  animal  life. 
There  are  plants  and  flowers  and  trees  that  are  scarcely 
found  elsewhere,  birds  of  gorgeous  plumage,  animals  and 
fish  unknown  to  other  latitudes,  and  all  of  them  abounding 
in  virgin  forest,  where  the  soil  has  seldom  been  defaced  by 
the  footprints  of  men. 

There  is  one  remarkable  fish,  peculiar  to  the  Orinoco  val- 
ley, I believe — a small  but  fierce  fellow  called  the  carib,  be- 
cause of  its  resemblance  to  that  most  savage  of  Indian 
tribes.  It  is  no  bigger  than  the  perch  of  Northern  waters, 
but  its  teeth  will  penetrate  a coat  of  mail,  and  natives  who 
attempt  to  ford  or  bathe  in  the  streams  are  often  killed  by 
it.  The  caribs  are  caught  in  a curious  way — by  crushing 
the  leaves  of  the  barbaco,  a highly  narcotic  plant,  and  then 
strewing  them  in  the  water.  The  juice  stupefies  the  fish, 
although  it  does  not  injure  them,  and  as  they  float  about 


224 


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upon  the  surface  the  Indians  pick  them  out  with  their 
hands. 

Most  people  imagine  that  the  so-called  electric-eel  is  a 
myth,  or  at  least  an  artificial  contrivance ; but  it  is  not  so. 
The  tributaries  of  the  Orinoco  furnish  them,  about  the 
size  and  weight  of  the  ordinary  variety  the  hoys  of  New 
England  catch  with  night  lines,  which  if  touched  give  a 
shock  like  a galvanic  battery,  often  so  violent  that  their 
victims  have  been  temporarily  paralyzed,  and,  losing  con- 
trol of  their  muscles,  have  been  drowned.  Horses  and  cat- 
tle suffer  as  men  do,  so  that  the  llaneros  are  careful  to 
keep  their  animals  out  of  streams  that  are  supposed  to  be 
haunted  by  this  curious  snake.  During  one  of  the  early 
wars  in  Venezuela  an  entire  army  was  almost  disabled  by 
running  into  a school  of  electric-eels  while  fording  a stream. 

To  reach  Ciudad  Bolivar,  formerly  known  as  Angostura, 
is  neither  difficult  nor  expensive,  and,  aside  from  the  heat, 
the  journey  is  comfortable.  It  is  like  going  from  New 
York  to  Memphis  by  sea,  however,  although  not  so  great 
a distance.  There  are  no  native  means  of  transportation, 
but  you  can  take  any  of  the  English,  French,  or  German 
steamers,  and  they  are  usually  leaving  La  Guayra  as  often 
as  twice  a week,  to  Port-of-Spain,  on  the  British  island  of 
Trinidad. 

The  voyageur  who  enters  from  any  direction  the  Port-of- 
Spain  is  bound  to  witness  some  picturesque  scenery,  and 
the  mind  of  a person  who  is  not  familiar  with  the  tropics 
will  be  profoundly  impressed.  The  precipitous  coast,  clothed 
in  most  sumptuous  foliage,  affords  a magnificent  panorama. 
It  looks  cool  and  inviting,  and  the  traveller,  enervated  by 
the  tropic  air,  imagines  that  he  would  linger  at  Trinidad 
forever  ; but  he  soon  changes  his  purpose  when  he  goes 
ashore,  unless  he  likes  his  pleasure  roasted. 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


225 


A glance  at  the  map  shows  that  Trinidad  is  the  largest 
of  the  group  of  Windward  Islands,  which  lie  in  a long  pro- 
cession from  St.  Thomas,  the  key-stone  of  the  arch,  to  the 
mouths  of  the  Orinoco.  They  are  also  called  the  Lesser 
Antilles,  to  distinguish  them  from  the  northern  and  west- 
ern group,  which  includes  Cuba,  Ilayti,  and  Porto  Rico. 
Where  the  coast  of  Terra  Firma,  as  the  ancients  termed 
the  Southern  Continent,  turns  the  corner  two  horns  project 
from  Venezuela  which  almost  touch  the  island  of  Trinidad 
and  enclose  a considerable  sea  known  as  the  Gulf  of  Paria. 
The  two  passages  are  called  bocas,  or  mouths.  That  from 
the  Atlantic  is  known  as  La  Boca  de  Mona,  or  the  Monkey’s 
Mouth  ; that  from  the  other  side  is  known  as  the  Dragon’s 
Mouth.  It  will  also  be  observed  that  owing  to  that  loyal 
and  fertile  colony  the  British  hold  the  key  to  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Orinoco,  and  in  case  of  a war  for  the  possession 
of  the  valley  of  that  great  river  Trinidad  will  be  a scene  cf 
activity. 

The  two  chief  towns  of  Trinidad,  San  Fernando  and 
Port-of-Spain,  are  situated  upon  a bay,  the  latter  being 
much  the  larger,  and  the  political  and  commercial  capital 
of  the  colony.  Trinidad  is  really  a fragment  of  the  con- 
tinent, broken  off  by  some  terrestrial  convulsion  and  gradu- 
ally separated  by  erosion  from  the  water  of  the  Orinoco 
River,  whose  delta  covers  a distance  of  six  hundred  miles. 
The  island  was  christened  by  Columbus,  who  reached  its 
shores  in  1498,  after  being  buffeted  by  winds  and  waves, 
detained  by  calms  for  several  months,  and  reduced  to  the 
utmost  extremity.  Only  one  small  cask  of  fresh  wrater  re- 
mained on  the  ship,  and  the  sailors  had  been  on  half-rations 
for  some  time.  The  heat  of  the  “doldrums,”  as  a belt  of 
windless  area  along  the  equator  is  called,  where  the  vessel 
had  been  lying  becalmed,  had  opened  the  seams,  and  it  was 

15 


VENEZUELA 


ooft 

/C/wO 

leaking  so  badly  that  two-thirds  of  the  men  were  kept  con- 
tinually at  the  pumps.  It  was  the  morning  of  Trinity  Sun- 
day when  the  island  was  first  seen,  and  the  pious  old  dis- 
coverer knelt  upon  the  sand  and  consecrated  it  with  prayer 
to  the  three  persons  of  the  Godhead,  to  whom  he  attributed 
his  salvation.  Here  Columbus  and  his  shipmates  found 
much-needed  rest  and  were  able  to  repair  their  craft,  using 
the  natural  pitch  of  the  island  to  calk  the  seams. 

As  Trinidad  is  approached  the  clear,  bright  blue  of  the 
water  of  the  sea  is  obscured  by  the  sediment  from  the  Ori- 
noco, and  it  becomes  the  color  of  chocolate.  Passing 
through  the  Dragon’s  Mouth,  the  steamer  enters  the  beau- 
tiful Gulf  of  Paria,  the  great  embrochure  of  the  Orinoco, 
itself  a mighty  harbor,  ninety  miles  long  by  forty  miles 
■wide,  completely  land-locked,  and  shallow  enough  for  a 
ship  to  anchor  anywhere.  On  one  side  are  the  low  plains 
of  Trinidad,  covered  with  glistening  cane,  while  on  the 
other  rise  the  mountains  of  Cumana,  rugged,  mysterious, 
and  impenetrable,  clothed  from  top  to  bottom  with  im- 
mense trees  and  crowned  with  wreaths  of  vapor.  Here  is 
the  end  of  the  great  chain  of  the  Andes,  the  spinal  column 
of  the  Southern  Continent,  which,  when  it  reaches  the  Isth- 
mus of  Darien,  turns  to  the  eastward  and  follows  the  line 
of  coast  so  closely  that  the  passing  ships  can  often  see  the 
snow-banks  on  the  mountain  summits  when  far  out  at  sea. 

Port-of-Spain,  with  about  twenty-five  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, has  a poor  harbor,  or  rather  no  harbor  at  all ; for  ships 
have  to  anchor  fully  a mile  from  the  shore,  and  the  freight 
that  reaches  and  leaves  the  port  has  to  be  transported  in 
lighters.  It  is  a nasty  place,  full  of  vultures,  which  sit  like 
evil  spirits  upon  the  house-tops  and  feed  upon  the  refuse 
that  is  cast  into  the  streets;  but  it  is  said  that  they  are  the 
most  important  and  industrious  of  all  the  inhabitants,  for 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


227 


without  them,  lacking  any  system  of  sewerage,  the  city  would 
suffer  from  a perpetual  plague.  The  ground  as  well  as  the  air 
is  full  of  loathsome  creatures,  vermin  of  all  kinds,  tarantulas, 
scorpions,  centipedes,  serpents,  lizards,  vampires,  and  chi- 
goes, or  “jiggers,”  as  they  call  little  worms  that  harbor 
in  the  cracks  of  the  tile  floors,  and  bore  into  the  feet  of 
those  who  walk  about  barefooted,  producing  painful  and 
often  dangerous  ulcers.  Like  most  of  the  cities  in  South 
America,  Port-of-Spain  has  straight,  level  streets,  badly 
paved,  with  lines  of  low  houses  without  architectural  pre- 
tensions, evil  smells,  swarms  of  dogs,  chickens,  goats,  and 
naked  children.  One  is  struck  at  once  with  the  number  of 
people  who  seem  to  have  nothing  to  do,  and  is  not  sur- 
prised when  told  that  there  are  at  least  five  thousand  beings 
in  the  city  without  visible  means  of  support.  They  are 
too  lazy  to  work,  but  always  seem  to  be  eating  something, 
generally  fruit,  which  is  as  cheap  and  plenty  as  dirt;  and 
when  they  are  not  eating,  like  the  burglar  who  “is  not 
burgling,”  they  “ lie  a-basking  in  the  sun.” 

But  only  man  is  vile.  Nature  made  the  island  a para- 
dise, and  one  turns  from  the  disgusting  sights  of  the  city 
to  feast  his  eyes  upon  the  luxurious  foliage  and  the  gor- 
geous flowers.  The  botanic  garden  which  stands  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  town  contains  an  example  of  nearly  every 
tropical  plant  in  the  very  highest  stage  of  development — a 
wilderness  of  vegetable  wonders ; and  over  all  stands  the 
royal  palm  with  leaves  like  ostrich  plumes,  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  long,  sleeping  until  a breeze  awakens  them,  when  they 
nod  with  movements  of  grace  that  no  artificial  thing  can  be 
made  to  imitate.  The  trees  of  this  garden  and  all  the 
forests  of  the  island  are  alive  with  monkeys  and  birds  of 
brilliant  plumage. 

The  island  is  covered  with  sugar  plantations,  most  of 


228 


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them  owned  by  Englishmen  and  worked  by  coolie  labor. 
Port-of-Spain,  owing  to  its  situation  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Orinoco — for  most  of  the  steamers  upon  that  river  enter 
the  northern  delta — is  a place  of  commercial  importance 
and  activity,  having  a large  trade  with  European  and 
American  ports,  and  being  the  entrepot  for  goods  des- 
tined for  the  Orinoco  country.  There  are  a few  fine  busi- 
ness houses  and  some  comfortable  residences.  The  Gov- 
ernment House  is  a spacious  mansion,  and  there  are  also 
two  cathedrals  worth  notice,  one  of  which  belongs  to  the 
Church  of  England  and  the  other  to  the  Church  of  Rome. 

San  Fernando,  thirty  miles  from  Port-of-Spain,  has  a 
population  of  eight  or  ten  thousand  people,  in  the  centre 
of  the  agricultural  district,  and  furnishes  the  visitor  with 
a very  fair  idea  of  an  East  India  settlement,  for  most  of 
the  inhabitants  are  coolies,  who  live  in  bamboo  houses  like 
tame  beasts,  without  comforts  or  conveniences,  and  work 
under  contract  upon  the  sugar  plantations  near  by. 

The  most  interesting  place  in  Trinidad  is  the  famous 
Pitch  Lake  from  which  comes  the  world’s  supply  of  asphal- 
tum.  It  covers  ninety-nine  acres,  and  contains  millions  of 
tons  of  pitch,  which  never  grows  less  in  amount,  for  that 
taken  out  during  the  day  is  renewed  by  nature  every  night. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  this  Stygian  pool  the  air  is  heavy 
with  sickening  odors,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  cov- 
ered with  its  overflow,  so  that  the  earth  is  as  hard  as  the 
pavements  of  Washington ; but  neither  the  steam  and  fumes 
that  arise  from  the  pitch  roasting  in  the  sun  nor  the  asphal- 
tum  in  the  soil  seem  to  injure  vegetation,  for  flowers  and 
fruits  actually  grow  in  the  midst  of  them,  and  pineapples 
are  there  brought  to  the  greatest  perfection.  The  lake  is 
a floating  mass  of  asphaltum,  seamed  by  narrow  channels 
of  clear  water,  with  a few  straggling  islands  covered  with 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


229 


thin,  low  shrubs.  At  the  centre,  the  fountain  of  all  the  foul- 
ness, the  pitch  is  at  boiling  heat,  and  covered  with  yellow 
and  white  sulphurous  foain,  upon  which  are  floating  in- 
numerable bubbles  filled  with  loathsome  gas.  The  old 
proverb  that  one  may  not  touch  pitch  without  being  defiled 
does  not  hold  good  here,  for  this  substance  will  not  stick 
to  the  hands,  and  you  can  take  up  a chunk  and  mould  it 
like  clay  without  soiling  your  fingers.  The  supply  for 
shipment  is  chopped  from  the  surface,  where  it  has  been 
hardened  and  dried  by  the  evaporation  of  the  moisture ; 
but,  like  ice  on  the  ponds  of  the  frozen  zones,  the  quantity 
cut  away  during  the  day  is  always  replaced  during  the 
night,  for  some  action  of  nature  keeps  forcing  the  nasty 
substance  out  of  the  earth. 

The  Pitch  Lake  is  a mystery  which  scientists  have  dis- 
cussed for  many  years.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  wrote  the  first 
account  of  it  in  1595,  when  he  landed  there  on  his  voyage 
in  search  of  the  El  Dorado  and  the  land  of  the  Amazons. 
Humboldt  gave  a good  deal  of  study  to  the  phenomenon, 
and  declared  that  the  Pitch  Lake  is  “a  constantly  aggre- 
gating mass  formed  from  the  cosmical  gaseous  fluid,”  which 
seems  to  settle  it. 

A few  miles  away  is  a mud-volcano,  on  the  mountain  of 
San  Fernando,  called  Salse — a circular  pile  of  mud  some  two 
or  three  acres  in  extent,  bottomless  and  hot,  and  evidently 
occupying  some  old  crater.  The  mud  is  heaped  up  in 
piles  like  monstrous  ant-hills,  at  the  top  of  which  are  holes 
through  which  the  moist  stuff  oozes,  and  sometimes  flames 
are  said  to  appear.  The  contents  of  this  basin  are  really 
impure  asphaltum,  for  the  odor  is  the  same  as  that  about 
the  Titch  Lake  and  the  component  parts  are  similar,  but  the 
greater  quantity  of  earth  in  the  mixture  makes  it  worthless 
for  economical  purposes. 


230 


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Everybody  has  heard  the  joke  about  oysters  growing  on 
trees,  but  this  anomaly  may  be  actually  found  in  Trinidad, 
where  the  roots  of  the  mangrove  run  through  the  banks  of 
the  cliffs  into  the  water,  and  the  oysters,  in  the  absence  of 
rocks,  cling  to  them,  and  are  plucked  off  like  fruit.  The 
oysters  are  small  and  coppery  when  eaten  raw,  like  those 
of  Belgium  and  Portugal,  but  they  make  a pretty  good 
stew. 

Near  Trinidad  is  the  island  of  Tobago,  erroneously 
claimed  by  the  inhabitants  to  be  the  place  where  Robinson 
Crusoe  and  his  man  Friday  had  their  prolonged  picnic. 
It  is  true  that  a Spanish  pirate  was  cast  away  upon  this 
island  under  circumstances  very  similar  to  those  described 
in  the  first  chapter  of  that  fascinating  story,  but  the  de- 
scription of  Mr.  Crusoe’s  surroundings  as  given  in  the  book 
does  not  at  all  correspond  with  the  topography  of  the 
place ; and  even  if  this  were  not  so,  Daniel  De  Foe,  the 
author,  has  left  on  record  the  confession  that  the  most 
widely  read  novel  ever  published  was  based  upon  the  ad- 
ventures of  Alexander  Selkirk,  a Scotch  sailor,  who  lived 
for  four  years  and  four  months  on  the  island  of  Juan  Fer- 
nandez, off  the  coast  of  Chili.  The  manner  in  which  Mr. 
Selkirk  was  left  in  the  situation  described  was  not  such  as 
to  do  him  credit,  as  he  had  been  guilty  of  mutiny  upon  the 
bark  Cinque  Ports , and  was  given  his  choice  between  walk- 
ing the  plank  and  being  marooned.  lie  chose  the  latter 
alternative,  and  after  being  on  the  island  a few  days  dis- 
covered a Mosquito  Indian,  who  had  been  accidentally  left 
ashore  a few  weeks  previously  by  an  English  privateer. 
The  Indian,  whose  name  was  Robin,  was  the  man  Friday  of 
the  story. 

The  Spaniard  who  was  cast  away  on  Tobago  was  always 
in  sight  of  the  settlement  of  Trinidad,  and  by  maintaining 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


231 


a large  fire  attracted  the  attention  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
latter  island,  who  rescued  him.  But  it  will  not  do  in  that 
neighborhood  to  deny  the  correctness  of  the  local  tradition 
that  Robinson  Crusoe  was  the  first  settler  of  the  place. 

At  least  once  a week,  and  generally  twice,  a steamer 
leaves  Port-of-Spain  for  the  upper  Orinoco.  The  fare  is 
thirty  dollars,  including  stateroom  and  meals,  or  fifty  dol- 
lars for  a round-trip  ticket.  The  time  required  to  make  the 
journey  depends  upon  the  season  of  the  year  and  the  con- 
dition of  the  river.  If  you  are  going  during  the  rainy  sea- 
son— that  is,  from  the  1st  of  May  to  the  1st  of  November — 
you  can  reach  Ciudad  Bolivar  in  three  days;  but  during 
the  dry  season,  when  the  river  is  low,  navigation  is  slow 
and  difficult  because  of  snags,  bars,  and  other  obstructions. 
The  steamers  are  of  American  make,  side-wheelers,  owned 
by  an  American  company,  and  manned  by  citizens  of  the 
United  States.  At  Ciudad  Bolivar  the  traveller  shifts  his 
baggage  to  a smaller  craft,  similar  to  those  that  ply  the 
Ohio,  Tennessee,  and  other  streams  of  the  United  States, 
and  starts  onward  for  the  head  of  navigation,  wherever  that 
may  be. 

It  is  possible  to  go  within  two  days’  journey,  on  mule- 
baclc,  of  Bogota,  the  capital  of  Colombia,  by  taking  the 
Meta,  one  of  the  chief  affiuents  of  the  Orinoco,  and,  by 
passing  southward  through  the  Cassiquiare,  the  Amazon 
can  be  reached.  Few  people  are  aware  that  a boat  enter- 
ing the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco  can  emerge  again  into  the 
sea  through  the  Amazon  without  leaving  the  water.  This 
passage  is  not  navigable  for  steamers  because  of  rapids  and 
obstructions,  but  it  might  be  made  clear  at  an  expense  that 
would  be  very  slight  in  comparison  with  the  advantages 
gained.  Indeed,  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  once  gave  a con- 
cession to  an  Englishman  to  open  this  channel,  and  the  lat- 


232 


VENEZUELA 


ter  was  to  have  the  exclusive  right  to  navigate  the  waters 
for  a term  of  twenty-five  years  as  a reward  for  his  enter- 
prise, but  for  some  reason  or  other  the  contract  was  not 
carried  out.  The  government  of  Colombia  has  granted  to 
a syndicate  of  Frenchmen  a guaranteed  concession  to  con- 
struct a railway  from  Bogota  to  the  head  of  navigation  of 
the  Meta,  which  will  give  an  easier  and  less  expensive  out- 
let for  the  produce  of  the  country  than  is  offered  by  the 
Magdalena,  which  flows  entirely  through  the  territory  of 
that  republic.  And  there  is  already  a Frenchman  at  the 
sources  of  the  Meta,  two  days  from  Bogota,  who  sends  flat- 
boats  loaded  with  hides,  coffee,  cocoa,  and  other  produce 
down  the  river  every  week. 

Another  branch  goes  nearly  to  Quito,  the  capital  of 
Ecuador,  and  in  fact  its  affluents  are  so  numerous  and  so 
large  that  in  all  the  500,000  square  miles  of  territory 
drained  by  the  Orinoco  there  is  scarcely  a point  more  than 
three  or  four  days’  journey  by  mule  from  navigable  waters, 
and  there  are  said  to  be  430  navigable  branches  of  the 
river. 

From  the  Atlantic  to  the  Andes,  from  the  chain  of  the 
Cordilleras  that  hugs  the  coast  of  the  Caribbean  to  the 
legend-haunted  Sierra  de  la  Parima,  there  is  an  area  as 
large  as  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  similar  in  its 
configuration,  capable  of  producing  mighty  crops  of  nearly 
everything  the  world  feeds  on,  and  affording  grazing 
ground  for  millions  upon  millions  of  cattle.  From  the 
foot-hills  of  the  mountains,  in  which  are  the  sources  of 
the  river,  2000  miles  to  the  sea,  are  great  plains,  or  llanos , 
like  those  of  Iowa  and  Illinois,  almost  entirely  destitute  of 
timber  except  along  the  courses  of  the  rivers,  where  valu- 
able trees  are  found.  During  the  rainy  season  the  imme- 
diate banks  of  the  Orinoco  are  overflowed,  and  the  differ- 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


233 


ence  between  high  and  low  water  is  sixty  feet.  At  a 
distance  of  500  miles  from  the  ocean  the  river  is  three 
miles  wide,  and  at  Ciudad  Bolivar,  240  miles  from  the  sea, 
it  is  four  and  a half  miles  wide  and  360  feet  deep.  Some 
remarkable  rapids  in  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  called  the 
Maypures  and  the  Atures,  are  formed  by  innumerable  little 
cascades  succeeding  each  other  like  steps,  at  a point  where 
the  islands  and  rocks  so  restrict  the  bed  of  the  river  that 
the  channel  is  only  twenty  feet  wide,  although  just  beyond 
them  the  great  stream  stretches  to  a width  of  8000  feet. 
The  volume  of  water  between  these  rocks  is  said  to  be  120 
feet  in  depth. 

The  upper  Orinoco  has  never  been  thoroughly  explored. 
Baron  von  Humboldt  as  long  ago  as  1808  made  a journey 
along  its  course,  and  contributed  the  first  accurate  knowl- 
edge the  world  had  of  that  portion  of  the  continent.  In 
1848  he  was  followed  by  another  German,  Dr.  Schomburgk, 
whose  name  and  work  are  involved  in  the  boundary  con- 
troversy. He  wrote  the  most  extended  and  valuable  treat- 
ise that  exists.  There  are  but  few  towns  along  the  river, 
and  the  forests  are  inhabited  by  a race  of  uncivilized  but 
peaceful  Indians,  who  gather  rubber,  cocoanuts,  tonqua- 
beans,  vanilla  beans,  and  other  products  of  the  forests,  and 
catch  the  turtles  from  whose  livers  the  pate  de  foie  gras  of 
the  epicures  is  made. 

The  scenery  for  the  greater  part  of  the  voyage  is  unin- 
teresting, but  as  you  reach  the  upper  waters  and  enter  the 
foot-hills  of  the  Andes  it  becomes  sublime.  But  there 
steam  navigation  ceases,  and  canoes  paddled  by  Indians 
are  the  only  means  of  transportation  that  the  country  af- 
fords. The  heat  along  the  lower  river  is  intense,  but  the 
boats  are  built  so  as  to  protect  the  traveller  from  the  sun, 
and  furnish  the  greatest  degree  of  coolness  possible.  The 


234 


VENEZUELA 


water  is  turgid  and  muddy.  The  banks  are  low,  and  the 
Orinoco,  like  the  Missouri,  often  tires  of  its  old  course,  and 
cuts  a new  one  through  fields  or  forests.  On  either  side 
the  coarse  grass  and  reeds  grow  tall,  and  towards  the  end 
of  the  season  are  topped  with  tassels  that  nod  and  droop 
in  the  sun. 

At  daybreak  long  lines  of  pelicans  and  other  water-birds, 
awakened  by  the  breathing  of  the  steamer,  go  clanging  out 
to  sea;  and  as  morning  wakens  the  thin  blue  mist  that  nat- 
ure nightly  hangs  upon  the  river  rises  and  leaves  the  slen- 
der rushes  that  line  the  banks  to  quiver  in  a burning  glare. 
Towards  noonday  a breeze  springs  up,  which  is  as  regular 
and  faithful  as  the  stars.  It  cools  the  atmosphere,  covers 
the  surface  of  the  river  with  pretty  ripples,  and  makes  life 
possible  under  a tropic  sun.  There  is  no  twilight.  The 
sun  jumps  up  from  below  the  horizon  in  the  morning  and 
jumps  down  again  at  night;  and  then,  for  a few  moments, 
the  sky,  the  river,  and  the  savannahs  are  one  vast  rainbow, 
livid  with  colors,  so  spread  and  blended  that  the  most  un- 
poetic  eye  cannot  behold  it  without  admiration  and  awe. 

The  smaller  streams  are  sheltered  by  flower-bespangled 
walls  of  forest,  gay  with  innumerable  insects  and  birds, 
while  from  the  branches  which  overhang  them  long  trailers 
droop  and  admire  their  own  gorgeousness  in  nature’s  mir- 
ror. Majestic  trees  whose  solitude  has  been  undisturbed  for 
centuries  are  covered  with  decorations  that  surpass  the 
skill  of  art,  their  trunks  and  limbs  concealed  by  garlands 
finer  than  were  ever  woven  for  a bride — masses  of  scarlet 
and  purple  orchids,  orange  and  crimson,  blue  and  gold — all 
the  fantastic  forms  and  hues  with  wThich  nature  bedecks 
her  robes  under  the  fierce  suns  and  the  fattening  rains  of 
the  tropics. 

The  only  place  of  real  importance,  the  entrepot  of  all 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


235 


commerce,  the  headquarters  of  all  trade,  the  source  of  all 
supplies,  and  the  political  as  well  as  the  commercial  capital 
of  nearly  half  the  republic  of  Venezuela  is  Ciudad  Bolivar 
— or  the  city  of  Bolivar,  as  the  English  call  it.  It  has 
about  twelve  thousand  inhabitants,  representing  almost 
every  nation  on  earth.  It  is  built  upon  a clay  bluff  about 
seventy  feet  above  high-water  mark,  so  that  it  is  in  no 
danger  of  being  swept  away.  During  the  six  months  of 
the  dry  season,  when  the  water  is  low,  most  of  the  shipping- 
business  is  transacted  upon  the  beach.  The  government, 
with  a tendency  to  centralize  power,  has  concentrated  at 
Ciudad  Bolivar  the  civil  and  military  authority.  It  has 
the  only  custom-house  upon  the  entire  Orinoco  system,  and 
practically  the  only  courts. 

The  city  resembles  other  Spanisli-American  towns,  for 
they  are  all  alike,  has  a number  of  pretty  foliage-shaded 
squares,  several  rather  imposing  government  buildings,  a 
cathedra],  a public  market,  a theatre,  a college,  and  the 
inevitable  statues  of  Bolivar  the  Liberator,  and  Guzman 
Blanco,  “the  Regenerator  of  Venezuela.”  The  volume  of 
business  done  there  is  enormous  in  proportion  to  the  popu- 
lation, as  it  is  the  supply-point  and  the  port  of  shipment 
for  a large  and  productive  area.  Within  the  last  few  years 
the  exports  of  gold  alone  have  been  valued  at  thirty-nine 
millions  of  dollars.  The  principal  merchants  are  Germans, 
the  restaurant-keepers  are  Italians,  and  the  laboring  classes 
are  negroes  from  the  West  Indies  or  Canary  Islands.  Ships 
from  all  parts  of  the  world  land  at  the  piers,  and  the  flags 
of  every  nation  may  be  seen  floating  from  poles  on  the 
house-tops.  The  manufacture  of  cigars  is  extensive,  as  ex- 
cellent tobacco  is  cultivated  in  the  neighborhood,  and  in 
almost  every  household  the  women  employ  their  spare  time 
rolling  the  leaves  into  what  are  known  in  the  nomenclature 


236 


VENEZUELA 


of  North  America  as  “ Wheeling  stogas.”  These  are  used 
in  amazing  quantities  by  the  negro  roustabouts,  and  are 
sent  down  the  river  to  Las  Tablas,  whence  they  are  carried 
on  mule-back  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  into  the  interior 
to  the  mines. 

The  two  most  conspicuous  features  of  the  place  are  the 
number  of  smokers  and  the  naked  workmen — black,  mus- 
cular fellows,  who  move  about  like  fiends  in  Tophet,  wear- 
ing nothing  but  breech-clouts  or  short  pantaloons.  Every- 
body you  meet  in  the  street  has  a stoga  in  his  mouth,  and 
through  the  barred  windows  you  can  see  fair  senoritas 
blowing  the  smoke  from  cigarettes  through  their  nostrils. 
The  merchants  and  clerks  in  the  counting-houses  smoke 
incessantly  during  business  hours,  and  the  shopkeepers 
puff  away  as  they  dole  out  sugar  and  other  groceries. 
Grim-looking  padres  with  long  black  robes  and  shovel- 
shaped hats  pass  leisurely  along  the  streets  with  black 
cigars  in  their  mouths,  and  even  the  water-carriers,  with 
two  big  casks  strapped  to  their  donkeys,  and  the  bread- 
peddlers,  with  big  barrels  full  of  loaves,  imitate  their  ex- 
ample. The  heat  is  intense,  the  mean  temperature  night 
and  day  the  year  round  being  above  90°  Fahrenheit ; but 
the  town  is  said  to  be  healthy,  except  during  the  dry  sea- 
son, when  the  receding  waters  of  the  river  uncover  a vast 
area  of  decaying  vegetation,  and  the  calentura,  or  malaria 
fever,  abounds. 

Although  the  richest  mineral  deposits  in  Venezuela  are 
supposed  to  lie  south  of  the  Orinoco,  there  are  successful 
mines  in  other  portions  of  the  republic  producing  iron, 
copper,  gold,  silver,  lead,  coal,  asphaltum,  and  petroleum, 
and  some  of  the  best  ores  are  closely  adjacent  to  the  coast. 
A recent  discovery,  provided  expectations  are  realized,  is 
likely  to  add  to  the  wealth  of  the  country.  The  new  metal 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


237 


vanadium  is  said  to  have  been  found  in  large  quantities 
in  a lead  mine  near  Carupano.  If  so,  the  owners  have  a 
bonanza  of  immeasurable  value. 

This  new  metal  is  the  most  valuable  in  the  world,  plati- 
num possibly  excepted,  for  an  ounce  of  it  is  worth  a pound 
of  gold.  Vanadium  is  used  in  fastening  dyes.  A single 
grain  of  it  will  fix  permanently  an  indefinite  quantity  of 
any  color  so  that  it  is  not  injured  by  water  or  by  exposure 
to  the  sun.  It  is  used  by  manufacturers  of  silks,  ribbons, 
and  other  fine  goods,  one  part  generally  being  sufficient  to 
fasten  five  or  six  hundred  parts.  The  metal  was  discovered 
in  Pennsylvania  early  in  the  present  century,  but  in  quan- 
tities so  minute  that  little  notice  was  taken  of  it  except  by 
collectors  of  minerological  specimens.  Then  a consider- 
able deposit  was  found  in  the  interior  of  Mexico.  The  dis- 
coverer, not  knowing  what  it  was,  sent  some  to  Professor 
Roscoe,  of  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  who  identified  it, 
and  by  chemical  experiments  made  known  its  usefulness. 

The  most  profitable  gold  mine  in  Venezuela,  and  one 
that  is  famous  all  over  the  world,  is  El  Callao,  situated  on 
the  borders  of  the  disputed  territory  in  the  State  of  Boli- 
var, about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  south  of  the  Orinoco 
River. 

I suppose  the  richest  gold  mine  ever  discovered  was  the 
Consolidated  Virginia,  from  which  Mackay,  Flood,  O’Brien, 
and  the  other  bonanza  kings  drew  their  enormous  fortunes, 
and  the  richest  silver  deposit  was  at  Potosi,  or  Cerro  del 
Pasco — it  is  difficult  to  calculate  the  output  of  the  old 
Spanish  mines  in  South  America — but  El  Callao  is  reck- 
oned second  to  the  Consolidated  Virginia  in  the  amount  of 
gold  produced,  and  I understand  it  has  already  yielded 
more  “ free  gold  ” than  any  other  ever  opened.  It  was 
worked  by  the  Indians  long  ago,  or  at  least  its  location  cor- 


238 


VENEZUELA 


responds  with  that  of  a legendary  deposit  from  which  the 
savages  of  Venezuela  got  much  of  the  gold  taken  from 
them  by  the  Spaniards;  hut  after  the  latter  took  possession 
of  the  country  its  existence  was  a matter  of  much  doubt 
until  four  Jamaica  negroes  happened  to  run  across  it  on  a 
prospecting  tour. 

Three  agreed  to  sell  their  share  in  the  discovery  to  a 
party  of  Corsicans  for  a nominal  price.  The  fourth  negro 
decided  to  keep  his  interest,  and  has  always  been  glad  that 
lie  did  so,  for  within  the  next  two  or  three  years  he  was 
able  to  return  to  his  native  island,  where  he  has  since  lived 
like  a nabob  at  the  city  of  Kingston,  the  richest  man  in 
that  colony.  Ilis  name  is  Steibel.  Ilis  three  companions 
have  passed  out  of  the  knowledge  of  men.  Even  their  names 
are  forgotten. 

The  Corsicans,  when  they  began  to  realize  the  value  of 
the  property,  sent  two  of  their  number  to  England,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  raising  sufficient  money  to  build  a stamp-mill  and 
introduce  other  necessary  machinery  ; but  they  did  not 
capitalize  their  company  at  ten  or  twenty  millions  of  dol- 
lars, as  is  the  habit  in  the  United  States,  nor  did  they 
put  any  of  their  stock  on  the  market.  They  issued  only 
thirty-two  shares,  which  were  sold  originally  at  $2500  a 
share,  cash,  making  their  entire  capital  $80,000.  These 
shares  have  since  sold  for  half  a million  dollars  each,  at 
which  rate  the  mine  would  be  worth  $1 6,000,000,  but  many 
of  them  are  still  in  the  possession  of  the  original  subscrib- 
ers. There  was  a scare  and  a stampede  among  the  stock- 
holders in  1888,  and  the  shares,  which  are  now  divided 
into  halves  and  quarters,  went  down  considerably,  so  that 
they  could  be  bought  for  one  or  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  This  was  because  the  miners  lost  “ the  pay  shoot,” 
and  the  average  product,  which  had  been  18,000  or  20,000 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


239 


ounces,  dropped  to  5DOO  or  6000  ounces  a month.  The 
lode  was  soon  after  recovered,  and  the  old  dividends  are 
being  paid  again  ; but  it  is  doubtful  if  the  stock  ever  gets 
back  to  the  quotations  of  1885-80,  because  of  a lack  of 
public  confidence  in  the  endurance  of  the  property. 

The  total  output  since  the  mine  passed  into  the  hands 
of  its  present  owners  has  been  upwards  of  $35,000,000,  of 
which  about  $23,000,000  has  been  distributed  among  the 
owners  in  dividends,  and  $7,000,000  disbursed  for  ma- 
chinery and  operating  expenses.  In  other  words,  the  orig- 
inal subscribers,  who  put  in  $2500,  have  each  received  as  a 
return  upon  that  investment  more  than  $600,000  per  share, 
with  more  yet  to  come.  Nearly  all  the  stock  is  held  in 
England,  but  most  of  the  men  employed  about  the  mines 
are  Americans  from  California.  Mr.  Perkins,  its  superin- 
tendent for  several  years,  who  retired  with  a large  fortune, 
and  has  gone  to  live  where  he  can  enjoy  it,  was  brought 
to  Guiana  from  Nevada,  and  the  present  superintendent, 
Mr.  Jennings,  is  also  from  the  Pacific  States. 

There  are  other  very  valuable  mines  in  the  same  locality, 
nearly  all  being  owned  by  Englishmen,  but  managed  by 
Americans,  like  El  Callao.  The  number  of  Californians  in 
the  province  is  said  to  be  from  three  to  four  hundred,  in- 
cluding prospectors.  Good  placer  mining  as  well  as  quartz 
is  found  in  the  same  district. 

It  probably  costs  more  to  produce  a given  quantity  of 
gold  in  that  country  than  anywhere  else  in  the  world,  for 
several  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  the  mines  are  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  from  the  river,  and  everything  has 
to  be  imported.  Nothing  whatever  is  produced  in  the 
neighborhood,  not  even  a potato  or  a pound  of  beef.  All 
supplies  have  to  be  brought  from  the  outside,  and  if  the 
steamers  on  the  Orinoco  should  stop  running  the  men  at 


240 


VENEZUELA 


the  mines  would  starve  to  death.  Most  of  the  supplies  come 
from  the  British  island  of  Trinidad  ; and  in  order  to  show 
its  contempt  for  John  Bull,  the  government  of  Venezuela 
added  a discriminating  duty  of  thirty-three  per  cent,  upon 
all  goods  imported  from  English  colonies ; that  is,  when 
merchandise  that  comes  from  the  United  States  pays  a 
duty  of  one  hundred  per  cent.,  similar  articles  if  produced 
in  Great  Britain  or  any  of  her  colonies  are  taxed  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty-three  per  cent. 

Then  the  government  compels  shippers  to  pay  freight 
both  ways  for  a considerable  distance  on  the  river.  The 
town  nearest  the  mines  is  Tumeremos,  thirty  miles  dis- 
tant, and  the  nearest  port  is  Las  Tablas ; but  the  govern- 
ment will  not  establish  a custom-house  there,  and  requires 
all  imported  merchandise  to  be  first  taken  to  Ciudad 
Bolivar,  three  hundred  miles  farther  up  the  river,  where 
it  is  unloaded,  removed  to  the  custom-house,  appraised,  and 
assessed.  Then,  when  the  duty  has  been  paid,  it  can  be 
reloaded  on  the  steamer  and  dropped  at  Las  Tablas  on  the 
return  voyage.  Every  ounce  of  bullion  that  is  shipped 
from  the  mines  has  to  go  to  Ciudad  Bolivar  for  the  same 
purpose.  There  is  an  inspector  of  customs  at  Las  Tablas, 
but  he  is  kept  there  to  prevent  smuggling,  and  to  see  that 
no  goods  are  discharged  that  have  not  been  inspected  and 
taxed  at  Ciudad  Bolivar.  And  shippers  are  continually 
imposed  upon  by  the  authorities,  and  annoyed  with  all 
sorts  of  petty  exactions,  which  are  followed  by  fines  and 
penalties. 

But  there  has  been  great  improvement  in  these  respects 
of  late,  and  the  people  are  greatly  relieved  by  the  abolition 
of  monopolies.  Formerly  all  sorts  of  business  was  subject 
to  concessions  by  the  government,  and  every  branch  of 
trade  was  a monopoly.  Senor  Fonseca,  for  example,  had 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


241 


the  exclusive  right  to  buy  cattle,  and  therefore  every  steer 
that  was  killed  for  beef,  and  every  hoof  that  was  shipped 
out  of  the  country,  paid  him  tribute,  which  he  was  sup- 
posed to  share  with  the  governor. 

But  trade  is  now  free,  people  are  taking  up  ranches,  and 
the  cattle  business  is  extending  rapidly  upon  the  llanos,  as 
the  great  plains  that  enclose  the  Orinoco  are  called.  Beef 
commands  a high  price  owing  to  the  hot  climate,  the  lack 
of  ice,  and  the  difficulties  of  reaching  market,  but  it  is  much 
cheaper  than  it  ever  was  before. 

The  only  monopoly  that  exists  at  present  is  owned  by 
a Frenchman,  who  has  the  exclusive  right  to  export  tonqua- 
beans.  They  grow  wild  in  the  forests  surrounding  the 
Orinoco  and  its  tributaries,  and  are  in  great  demand  by 
perfumery,  soap,  and  drug  manufacturers  all  over  the  world. 
They  are  worth  about  two  dollars  a pound  in  the  market, 
although  they  can  be  bought  for  a little  more  than  half 
that  sum  in  Bolivar.  The  natives  bring  them  into  the 
towns  along  the  river  to  trade  for  food,  clothing,  liquors, 
and  tobacco,  but  all  buyers  are  required  to  ship  their  beans 
to  the  monopolist  mentioned  above,  and  accept  such  prices 
as  he  is  willing  to  pay,  for  no  one  else  can  export  them. 
As  a consequence  there  is  considerable  smuggling,  and  the 
Orinoco  people  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  ship  their  beans 
over  the  mountains  to  the  free-traders  on  the  Amazon. 

When  freight  has  finally  reached  the  port  of  Las  Tablas 
it  has  to  be  carted  or  carried  on  the  backs  of  mules  a dis- 
tance of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  mines.  For- 
merly all  transportation  cost  ten  cents  a pound  for  this  dis- 
tance, but  several  teaming  companies  have  been  organized, 
and  competition  is  so  close  that  the  tariff  has  dropped  to 
three  and  four  cents  a pound.  Several  concessions  for  a 
railroad  have  been  granted,  and  engineers  estimate  that  it 
16 


242 


VENEZUELA 


could  be  easily  built  for  two  millions  and  a half,  for  the 
grades  are  easy,  and  there  are  no  rivers  to  bridge ; but  the 
concessionaros  have  not  been  men  of  capital,  and  have  ob- 
tained charters  for  the  purpose  of  selling  out  to  syndicates. 
A concession  was  once  granted  for  this  purpose  to  the 
Duke  de  Moray,  the  son-in-law  of  Guzman  Blanco,  who 
organized  a French  company,  but  did  nothing  further. 

There  is  little  immigration,  and  labor  is  scarce.  Most  of 
the  miners  are  negroes  from  Jamaica,  Trinidad,  and  other 
West  India  islands.  They  appear  to  be  the  only  class  of 
human  beings  who  can  endure  the  climate,  for  the  land  is 
low,  and  the  mines  are  situated  almost  directly  on  the 
equator.  The  country  is  comparatively  healthy,  but  the 
rays  of  the  sun  are  intense,  and  until  a man  becomes  ac- 
climated he  is  easily  prostrated  by  exposure.  Wood  is  the 
only  fuel,  and  a very  poor  quality  costs  seven  dollars  a cord. 
As  soon  as  a railroad  is  constructed  coal  can  be  bought  at 
a less  expense. 

Some  of  the  mines  are  within  and  some  without  the  ter- 
ritory claimed  by  the  English,  but  when  a concession  for 
a railroad  was  originally  granted,  the  British  minister  at 
Caracas  entered  a protest  on  the  ground  that  it  was  an  in- 
fringement upon  the  rights  of  Great  Britain.  England 
usually  has  two  gun-boats  upon  the  Orinoco,  and  at  the 
first  possible  excuse  will  take  possession  of  the  entire  min- 
eral district.  Such  an  act  would  be  audacious  and  totally 
unjustifiable,  but  would  be  heartily  welcomed  by  the  miners, 
who  would  very  much  prefer  an  English  colonial  govern- 
ment to  Venezuelan  rule.  I have  been  told  by  dozens  of 
men,  Americans,  Germans,  native  Venezuelans,  and  repre- 
sentatives of  other  nations,  that  if  the  question  were  sub- 
mitted to  the  people  the  decision  would  be  almost  unani- 
mously in  favor  of  England. 


THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  ORINOCO 


243 


But,  regardless  of  the  preferences  of  the  population, 
Great  Britain  has  no  more  title  to  the  territory  she  has 
forcibly  occupied  than  the  United  States  h-as  to  Manitoba 
or  Chihuahua,  and  no  more  right  to  occupy  the  island  of 
Barima  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco  than  the  jetties  of  the 
Mississippi  or  the  islands  in  the  harbor  of  New  York. 
She  had  a title  to  the  latter  once,  but  never  to  the  former. 
Nevertheless,  in  1884,  after  the  discoveries  of  gold,  the 
agents  of  the  British  government  invaded  the  Venezuelan 
territory,  established  military  posts,  and  appointed  mag- 
istrates to  enforce  the  British  colonial  laws ; and  so  the 
matter  stands.  England  not  only  claims,  but  actually  oc- 
cupies, all  of  the  disputed  territory,  and  in  addition  to  that 
has  taken  forcible  possession  of  the  islands  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Orinoco,  erected  and  garrisoned  fortresses  thereon, 
and  keeps  a couple  of  men-of-war  constantly  in  the  neighbor- 
hood to  enforce  her  authority.  The  dispute  between  the 
two  nations  has  never  involved  the  ownership  nor  the 
right  of  navigation  upon  that  river.  On  the  contrary,  in 
1836  England  conceded  the  title  by  requesting  through  Sir 
Robert  Ker  Porter,  her  minister  at  Caracas,  that  the  Ven- 
ezuelan government  erect  a light-house  upon  the  very  spot 
where  her  fort  now  stands.  This  is  a matter  of  vital  im- 
portance to  all  maritime  nations,  as  the  Orinoco  is  naviga- 
ble for  thousands  of  miles  and  drains  one-third  of  the 
Southern  Continent. 

We  frame  laws,  organize  police,  and  establish  courts  to 
defend  the  weak  against  the  strong,  and  protect  property 
from  being  unlawfully  plundered,  and  no  honest  or  brave 
man  will  stand  idly  by  while  highway  robbery  is  being 
committed  upon  his  neighbor.  The  excuse  for  the  inter- 
ference of  our  government  in  the  Samoan  case  was  trifling 
compared  with  the  reasons  that  exist  in  the  seizure  of  Ven- 


244 


VENEZUELA 


ezuelan  territory  by  England,  for  beyond  and  outside  the 
grounds  of  ordinary  justice,  which  are  sufficient,  there  are 
some  selfish  inducements  that  appeal  to  every  business 
man  in  this  country,  if  he  would  stop  for  a moment  to 
study  the  facts  and  the  situation. 

The  United  States  should  prevent  the  seizure  of  the 
Guiana  territory  and  the  waters  of  the  Orinoco  for  the 
very  reason  that  England  has  seized  them.  The  same  ap- 
plies to  France,  Germany,  and  other  commercial  nations, 
for  if  they  do  not  protect  Venezuela  now  they  will  be  com- 
pelled to  pay  tribute  to  England  hereafter. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 

The  British  colony  of  Guiana  is  a wedge-shaped  terri- 
tory about  250  miles  long  by  100  miles  wide  between  the 
rivers  Corentyne,  which  separates  it  from  the  Dutch  colony 
of  the  same  name,  and  the  Essequibo,  which  separates  it 
from  the  Republic  of  Venezuela.  In  early  geographies  and 
gazetteers,  and  even  in  the  Statistical  Abstract  of  the  Colo- 
nial and  other  Possessions,  an  official  publication  of  the  British 
government,  its  area  is  given  as  60,000  square  miles.  In 
1885  the  figures  were  increased  to  76,000.  The  same  au- 
thorities now  assert  that  its  area  is  109,000  square  miles, 
but  give  no  explanation  of  the  extraordinary  enlargement 
of  the  territory  by  33,000  square  miles,  which,  however,  is 
found  in  the  argument  over  the  boundary  dispute  in  the 
Appendix. 

The  cultivated  area  of  British  Guiana  is  a narrow  strip 
along  the  coast  of  unparalleled  fertility,  which  has  been 
formed  upon  the  sandy  shore  by  deposits  of  soil  washed 
down  from  the  interior  during  the  floods  that  annually  fol- 
low the  wet  season.  It  is  protected  by  an  expensive  sys- 
tem of  dams  and  dikes,  and  the  cost  of  creating  and  main- 
taining them  confines  the  business  of  agriculture  to  a few 
wealthy  corporations,  who  employ  large  numbers  of  coolies 
imported  from  India,  and  produce  nothing  but  sugar.  The 
luxuriance  of  the  cane  is  nowhere  surpassed.  It  is  cut  sev- 


246 


VENEZUELA 


eral  times  a year,  and  will  reappear  fifty  and  sixty  years  in 
succession  without  replanting.  The  greatest  expense  of 
cultivation  is  in  protecting  the  roots  against  the  floods  and 
rainfall,  which  is  prodigious,  exceeding  that  of  any  other 
locality  on  the  globe.  Sometimes  eight  and  ten  inches 
of  water  will  fall  in  a single  day,  which  has  to  be  carried 
off  the  fields  by  powerful  steam  drainage  apparatus,  and 
pumped  over  the  dikes  into  the  sea. 

Back  of  these  alluvial  deposits  is  a strip  of  sand-reefs 
that  were  formerly  the  coast-line.  Miles  and  miles  of  pure 
white  sand,  that  glistens  in  the  sun  like  snow,  divides  the 
settled  country  from  a primeval  forest  which  covers  an  un- 
dulating surface  that  grows  bolder  and  bolder  until  it  breaks 
into  ranges  of  mountains  that  run  parallel  with  the  coast 
and  divide  the  water-sheds  of  the  great  rivers  that  have 
their  source  in  a wilderness  that  has  been  but  partially  ex- 
plored. The  ideal  tropical  forest  can  be  found  in  British 
Guiana,  and  easily  reached  by  those  in  search  of  the  pict- 
uresque, although  curiously  enough  all  of  the  great  rivers 
that  bisect  the  colony  are  obstructed  by  granite  ledges, 
rapids,  and  cataracts  which  limit  navigation  and  retard  the 
development  of  the  interior.  All  freight,  be  it  merchan- 
dise or  saw-logs,  has  to  be  hauled  around  these  obstruc- 
tions, which  makes  transportation  expensive  and  often  im- 
possible. 

All  of  the  waterfalls  are  picturesque.  Some  of  them  are 
imposing,  particularly  in  the  rainy  season  when  the  floods 
pour  down  from  the  mountains  and  the  plains.  The  moun- 
tain ranges  are  also  notable  for  their  scenery,  and  the  peak 
Roraima  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  natural  phenom- 
ena. It  is  an  immense  sandstone  rock,  rising  six  thousand 
feet  from  the  plains,  like  a gigantic  castle.  Its  sides  are 
almost  perpendicular,  and  its  summit,  about  eight  miles 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


247 


long  and  four  miles  broad,  is  a flat,  bare  surface,  with  fre- 
quent immense  depressions  that  are  filled  with  water  during 
the  rainy  season  and  form  miniature  lakes.  It  is  impossi- 
ble to  reach  the  summit  except  by  a single  path  which  was 
made  in  1884  by  Professor  Im  Thurn,  who  was  more  than 
three  months  making  the  ascent.  Not  more  than  three 
parties  have  since  succeeded  in  accomplishing  the  feat. 

The  timber  tract  is  covered  with  dense  forests  of  valu- 
able trees,  and  might  furnish  cabinet  woods  with  great 
profit  but  for  the  cataracts.  This  part  of  the  country  is 
inhabited  by  a few  negroes  and  Indians,  who  cut  timber 
along  the  open  rivers  and  creeks  with  primitive  imple- 
ments, but  they  can  do  little  more  without  expensive  plants. 
If  roads  and  tramways  were  extended  into  the  forest,  and 
saw-mills  were  set  up,  timber  cutting  would  be  a profitable 
enterprise. 

Beyond  the  mountains  the  forest  tract  is  succeeded  by 
the  savannahs,  or  llanos,  as  the  Spaniards  call  them — the 
great  grass  plains  which  occupy  so  much  of  the  interior  of 
South  America.  The  land  is  low,  fiat,  and  covered  with  a 
high,  coarse  grass  almost  as  heavy  as  reeds.  As  one  looks 
upon  this  unbroken  meadow,  thousands  of  square  miles  in 
extent,  it  seems  like  a vast  sea,  ending  only  at  the  horizon, 
and  unbroken  except  here  and  there  by  a narrow  thread  of 
emerald  underbrush,  which  marks  the  winding  course  of 
some  small  stream.  There  is  a gradual  rise  to  the  west- 
ward's upon  our  prairie  lands  in  Dakota  and  Kansas,  but 
it  is  not  apparent  to  the  traveller.  The  savannahs  near  the 
large  rivers  are  subject  to  inundations  during  the  rainy 
season,  and  much  is  marshy. 

The  last  tract  or  zone  is  found  in  the  highlands  that  rise 
gradually  into  rocky  foot-hills,  and  terminate  in  the  ranges 
or  ribs  which  run  eastward  from  the  main  Andean  chain, 


248 


VENEZUELA 


and  separate  the  valleys  that  are  drained  by  the  Amazon 
and  the  Orinoco.  It  is  in  these  mountains  that  the  mines 
are  found. 

Aside  from  the  mining  camps  the  scattered  inhabitants 
of  the  interior  are  Indians,  chiefly  Caribs,  and  a few  half- 
breeds  of  Carib  and  negro  blood  called  Cobungrus.  They 
retain  the  many  good  qualities  of  the  aborigines,  and  add 
the  physique  and  strength  of  the  West  Indian  negro.  They 
are  industrious,  intelligent,  and  docile,  hospitable  to  stran- 
gers, and  always  ready  to  furnish  food  and  assistance. 
They  love  the  open  air,  and  hate  to  work  in  the  mines. 
Their  houses  consist  of  four  posts  supporting  a roof  of 
palm-leaves.  Sometimes  thin  walls  are  made  of  braided 
leaves  and  rushes  to  shelter  them  from  the  sun  and  storms. 
The  men  are  usually  naked,  except  for  a loin-cloth  of  dark- 
blue  cotton  and  ornaments  of  alligator’s  teeth,  monkey’s 
teeth,  snake  rattles,  and  other  trophies  of  the  chase.  The 
women  wear  a single  cotton  gown  or  chemise,  cut  low  at 
the  top  and  high  at  the  bottom,  quantities  of  beads  around 
their  necks  and  arms,  and  are  much  given  to  ear-rings  and 
other  ornaments.  They  are  large-framed,  stalwart  creat- 
ures, capable  of  any  degree  of  endurance,  and  spend  most 
of  their  lives  in  the  open  air.  They  swim  like  fish,  shoot 
with  guns  and  bows  with  equal  facility,  handle  boats  as  well 
as  the  men,  and  one  can  easily  imagine  regiments  of  Ama- 
zons such  as  the  early  voyagers  described.  In  their  wars, 
which  have  been  infrequent  since  the  sixteenth  century, 
women  have  fought  side  by  side  with  men,  but  they  have 
never  provoked  hostilities,  and  are  as  civil  and  as  peaceable 
a people  as  exist  in  the  world.  They  sleep  in  hammocks 
made  of  grass  fibers,  handsomely  ornamented  with  feathers 
and  the  skins  of  birds  and  snakes. 

The  foliage  in  the  forests  is  marvellous.  The  colors  are 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


249 


intense,  the  flowering  plants  almost  infinite  in  number  and 
variety,  and  the  contrast  between  the  bright  scarlet  of  some 
of  the  blossoms,  the  vivid  green  of  the  leaves,  and  the 
huge  dark-brown  pods  of  the  wild  chocolate-tree  is  very 
striking.  The  air  is  always  full  of  the  cries  of  animals,  in- 
sects, and  birds.  There  is  no  place  on  earth  where  vegeta- 
ble and  animal  life  thrives  so  luxuriously.  The  Indians 
partake  so  much  of  the  nature  of  the  animal  kingdom  that 
they  understand  by  instinct  the  nature  and  habits  of  the 
insects,  reptiles,  birds,  and  beasts,  and  tame  and  train  them 
without  the  slightest  difficulty.  They  consider  tame  ani- 
mals legal-tender  in  trade,  with  which  they  purchase  what 
they  want  from  their  neighbors.  They  have  no  use  for 
money.  Nature  furnishes  all  they  need.  They  spin  the 
wild  cotton  and  work  up  various  fiber  plants  with  great 
skill.  They  weave  exquisite  hammocks  and  handsome 
robes  for  ceremonial  occasions.  They  make  good  pottery, 
and  decorate  it  with  the  same  designs  that  are  found  among 
the  Incas  of  Peru.  Their  chief  diet  is  the  cassava  root, 
which  answers  for  bread,  and  the  fishes  and  water -fowls 
with  which  the  rivers  abound.  They  have  a drink  called 
paiwarie,  made  from  cassava  bread,  first  masticated,  satu- 
rated with  saliva,  and  then  thrown  into  a jar  of  water  to 
ferment.  It  has  a sharp,  bitterish  taste,  is  a mild  stimu- 
lant, and  sufficiently  intoxicating  to  be  popular,  although 
not  injurious  to  the  health.  They  have  a fair  idea  of  mu- 
sic, and  play  on  native  instruments  made  of  reeds  and  the 
bones  of  animals.  All  of  their  songs,  like  those  of  other 
savages,  are  written  in  the  minor  key,  but  occasionally  one 
hears  melodies  that  resemble  the  negro  hymns  of  our  South- 
ern States,  which  evidently  were  imported  by  immigrants 
from  the  West  Indies  or  negro  sailors  from  the  United 
States. 


250 


VENEZUELA 


They  have  a generous  but  occasionally  inconvenient  code 
of  hospitality.  All  portable  and  necessary  articles  are  com- 
mon property.  An  Indian  thinks  nothing  of  walking  into 
the  house  of  any  other  Indian  of  the  same  tribe  and  appro- 
priating food  or  whatever  he  finds  there,  nor  do  the  own- 
ers resent  it.  In  the  same  way  when  in  his  frequent  wan- 
derings a native  finds  a canoe  in  a convenient  spot  he  takes 
it  without  asking  permission,  and  leaves  it  wherever  his  own 
journey  happens  to  end.  Thus,  passed  from  Indian  to  Ind- 
ian, the  owner  at  last  recovers  his  property,  or  if  he  wants 
it  sooner  he  must  fetch  it  back  himself,  or  wait  till  some 
other  chance  Indian,  travelling,  brings  it  into  the  neighbor- 
hood from  which  it  was  taken. 

The  llanos  are  covered  with  cattle,  which  are  left  almost 
entirely  to  nature.  Farms  were  established  about  the  end 
of  the  last  century,  but  were  often  destroyed  and  the  stock 
dispersed  during  the  revolutionary  times.  When  the  ranches 
were  re-established,  the  cattle,  which  in  the  meantime  had 
greatly  multiplied,  were  not  all  again  gathered  together.  The 
greater  number  were  allowed  to  roam  and  breed  where  they 
pleased.  Once  a year  the  young  cattle  arc  driven  into  the 
strong  stockades  which  form  the  central  point  of  each  of 
the  gigantic  ranches  into  which  the  savannahs  are  divid- 
ed. After  being  branded,  they  are  let  out  to  roam  again. 
Every  now  and  then  as  a large  number  attain  their  growth 
they  are  taken  down  the  river  to  the  nearest  town  and 
shipped  to  market.  Many  are  also  slaughtered  on  the 
farms,  and  the  meat,  after  being  cut  into  thin  slices,  is 
slightly  salted,  dried  in  the  sun,  and  then  carried  to  the 
Amazon  and  Orinoco. 

On  the  Brazilian  side,  at  the  central  farm  of  the  prov- 
ince, resides  a government  official  who  is  responsible  for  all 
the  cattle  in  his  district.  His  only  assistants  are  cow-herds 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


251 


of  low  caste,  half-breed  Brazilians  and  Indians.  Most  of 
the  work  of  these  herdsmen  is  done  on  the  backs  of  small 
but  strong  horses  which,  when  not  in  use,  roam  all  but  free 
on  the  savannah.  All  the  food  required  is  produced  on 
the  spot.  For  meat  the  men  are  allowed  to  kill  a certain 
number  of  cattle  for  their  own  use,  and  the  milk,  which, 
however,  as  is  always  the  case  with  any  but  domesticated 
cattle,  is  small  in  quantity,  is  at  their  disposal.  Game, 
especially  venison,  is  abundant.  Cassava  is  grown  at  the 
principal  farms,  where  it  is  made  into  farina — a coarse  but 
excellent  and  nutritive  flour,  which  is  distributed  twice  a 
month  to  the  men  on  the  farms.  Yams,  potatoes,  plan- 
tains, and  fruits  are  but  little  grown,  except  in  the 
fields  of  the  Indians,  where  they  flourish  so  well  that 
they  might  evidently  be  cultivated  with  advantage  else- 
where. 

In  1840  there  was  quite  a brush  between  the  Brazilian 
and  British  colonial  authorities.  An  English  missionary 
having  settled  at  Pirara,  Brazilian  soldiers  were  sent  from 
Fort  San  Joaquim,  on  the  river  Branco,  to  turn  him  out, 
on  the  plea  that  the  place  was  within  Brazilian  territory. 
Troops  were  sent  up  from  Georgetown  to  reassert  British 
rights,  and  the  Brazilians  retreated.  The  affair  was  made 
the  topic  of  a prolonged  diplomatic  correspondence  until 
1862,  when  a modus  vivendi  was  reached  by  which  the 
Brazilians  and  the  British  both  agreed  to  consider  the  dis- 
puted territory  neutral  ground. 

There  is  a line  of  steamers  from  Georgetown  up  the  Es- 
sequibo  as  far  as  the  rapids,  a distance  of  perhaps  two  hun- 
dred miles.  Three  times  a week  a smaller  steamer  runs 
thirty-five  miles  farther  up  the  river  for  the  convenience  of 
the  few  who  travel  in  that  direction,  but  chiefly  for  the 
benefit  of  the  government,  which  has  a penal  colony  on  the 


252 


VENEZUELA 


Mazaruni,  a large  tributary  of  the  Essequibo.  Other  means 
of  transportation  are  primitive. 

There  was  some  gold  mining  along  the  Essequibo  and  its 
affluents  during  the  domination  of  the  Dutch,  a hundred 
years  ago,  but  it  was  only  casual,  and  the  search  for  the 
treasures  described  by  the  Indians  had  been  abandoned 
long  before.  In  1856  a deposit  was  accidentally  discovered, 
and  there  was  some  excitement,  which  brought  professional 
prospectors  to  the  colony  and  caused  several  companies  to 
be  formed:  but  the  results  were  not  encouraging  and  the 
search  was  abandoned.  Nothing  more  was  heard  of  gold 
in  Guiana  until  1880,  when  a party  of  French  teamsters 
from  Cayenne  stumbled  upon  valuable  placer  deposits  in 
the  sands  of  the  Puruni  River,  a branch  of  the  Mazaruni, 
which  enters  the  Essequibo  from  the  westward  about  fifty 
miles  from  its  mouth.  There  was  a rush  in  that  direction 
from  all  parts  of  the  world,  especially  from  California  and 
Cape  Town  ; and  prospectors  searched  the  entire  district 
between  the  Essequibo  and  Orinoco  rivers.  The  Barima 
and  the  Barama  were  both  found  rich  in  gold,  and  the  moun- 
tains they  drain  have  since  become  a famous  mining  dis- 
trict. On  Conamarook  Creek,  a branch  of  the  Potaro  River, 
was  picked  up  in  1891  one  of  the  most  valuable  nuggets 
ever  known.  It  weighed  509  ounces,  and  contained  274 
ounces  of  pure  gold,  realizing  $5435. 

The  most  popular  and  populated  diggings  are  on  the 
Barima  River,  in  the  disputed  territory,  where  several  million 
dollars  of  foreign  capital,  mostly  British,  is  invested,  and 
some  twenty  thousand  miners  are  at  work.  Most  of  the 
hard  labor  is  done  by  negroes  from  Jamaica  and  other 
West  India  islands,  who  seem  to  be  the  only  race  that  can 
endure  the  climate.  India  coolies  and  Chinamen  are  nu- 
merous about  the  mining  camps,  and  serve  as  cooks  and  in 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


253 


other  light  occupations,  but  cannot  work  with  pick  and 
shovel  under  the  tropic  sun. 

The  colonial  authorities  of  Guiana  have  calmly  occupied 
this  territory,  organizing  police,  appointing  local  magistrates, 
assuming  legislative  as  well  as  executive  jurisdiction,  pro- 
viding laws  and  regulations  for  the  government  of  the  min- 
ing camps,  requiring  prospectors  to  obtain  licenses  from  the 
colonial  officials  at  Georgetown  before  commencing  work, 
and  to  advertise  their  claims  and  locations  in  the  official 
gazette  of  the  colony.  Sanitary  regulations  have  been  im- 
posed, and  rules  to  govern  the  erection  of  buildings  and 
the  sinking  of  shafts.  No  miner  can  cease  work  upon  his 
claim  without  a formal  notification  to  the  British  colonial 
authorities,  otherwise  he  forfeits  his  title.  And  he  must 
keep  a daily  record  of  his  progress  and  his  output,  which  is 
regularly  reported  to  the  proper  inspector,  and  he  can  sell 
his  product  only  to  a licensed  dealer.  A duty  of  ninety 
cents  per  ounce  is  imposed  on  all  gold  exported  from  the 
colony,  and  none  can  be  shipped  without  an  invoice  show- 
ing from  what  mine  it  comes. 

These  and  many  similar  restrictions  have  been  imposed 
by  the  British  colonial  authorities  within  a territory  to 
which  they  did  not  claim  ownership  until  the  discoveries 
of  gold,  and  over  which  they  did  not  attempt  to  exercise 
jurisdiction  until  1883.  And  as  new  mines  have  been  dis- 
covered the  British  have  gradually  pushed  their  frontier 
line  westward,  until  it  now  includes  nearly  twice  as  much 
territory  as  they  claimed  forty  years  ago,  and  very  much 
more  than  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  Holland  in  1814. 
It  is  true  that  the  Venezuelans  have  shown  no  enterprise 
or  activity  in  developing  their  own  resources.  They  have 
permitted  foreign  prospectors  to  enter  and  occupy  the 
mining  districts  at  their  will,  and  have  never  attempted  to 


254 


VENEZUELA 


exercise  police  or  even  administrative  control  in  the  mining 
camps.  The  original  prospectors,  having  been  English- 
men, naturally  looked  to  the  colonial  government  at  George- 
town for  protection,  and  the  other  foreigners  fell  in  with- 
out a question,  acknowledged  British  sovereignty,  and 
obeyed  British  law. 

I leave  the  grounds  of  controversy  to  be  stated  on  the 
one  side  by  Mr.  Richard  Olney,  secretary  of  state,  in  his 
note  of  instructions  to  Mr.  Bayard,  dated  July  20,  1895, 
and  on  the  other  by  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury  in  his  com- 
prehensive reply.  This  famous  correspondence,  and  the 
message  of  the  president  with  which  it  was  transmitted  to 
Congress,  appear  as  an  Appendix  to  this  volume. 

It  was  within  this  disputed  territory  between  the  Orinoco 
and  the  Amazon  that  the  ancient  voyageurs  located  the 
mythical  city  of  Manoah,  upon  the  silver  lake  of  Parima — 
the  El  Dorado  upon  which  the  wonder  and  the  greed  of 
two  ceuturies  were  concentrated  ; the  country  upon  which 
more  ambition  rested  than  any  man  has  ever  known.  Said 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh : 

“ I have  many  years  had  knowledge  by  relation  of  that 
mighty,  rich,  and  beautiful  empire  of  Guayana,  and  of  that 
great  and  golden  city  which  the  Spaniards  call  El  Dorado, 
and  the  natives  Manoah.  Whatsoever  prince  shall  pos- 
sess it,  that  prince  shall  be  lord  of  more  gold  and  of  a 
more  wealthy  possession  than  either  the  King  of  Sp>ain  or 
the  Great  Turk.” 

It  was  not  more  than  ten  years  after  the  return  of  Co- 
lumbus from  his  first  voyage  that  strange  tales  were  heard 
about  the  courts  of  Europe  concerning  a mysterious  city 
situated  in  some  vague  place  upon  Terra  Firma  where  were 
untold  treasures  of  gold  and  silver  and  precious  stones. 
Tidings  of  this  barbaric  splendor  were  brought  home  by 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


255 


every  voyageur,  and  each  caravel  that  left  the  shores  of 
Europe  carried  ambitious  and  avaricious  men,  who  hoped, 
if  they  did  not  expect,  to  share  its  plunder  before  their 
return  to  Spain.  But  this  alluring  El  Dorado  was  not  a 
place.  It  was  a man.  The  term  signifies  “ the  gilded,” 
and  was  originally  applied  to  a mythical  king,  who  every 
morning  was  sprinkled  with  gold-dust  by  his  slaves. 

According  to  Father  Gumilla,  one  of  the  most  reliable 
of  the  early  writers,  the  fable  originally  referred  to  the 
source  of  the  wealth  found  among  the  Indians  along  the 
coast  of  Carthagena  and  Santa  Marta.  Yasca  Nunez  de 
Balboa  reported  tidings  he  gained  of  it  from  friendly 
Indians  upon  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  and  wdiile  search- 
ing for  this  city  he  discovered  the  Pacific  Ocean.  When 
Mexico  was  plundered  and  the  treasures  of  Montezuma 
w'ere  scattered  among  the  nobles  of  Spain;  when  Pizarro 
had  stripped  the  innocent  incas  of  the  millions  their  in- 
dustry had  acquired,  the  avarice  of  the  invaders  w-as  not 
only  not  satiated,  but  was  more  fiercely  inflamed,  and  El 
Dorado,  the  highest  prize  in  the  grand  lottery  of  the  con- 
quest, remained  yet  to  be  drawn.  By  the  middle  of  the 
sixteenth  century  cupidity  and  credulity  w7ere  excited  to 
the  highest  degree.  The  seamanship,  the  science,  and  the 
chivalry  of  all  Europe  were  called  out  by  this  golden  phan- 
tom, so  possible,  so  actual,  so  alluring  ; and  more  enter- 
prise, more  endurance,  and  more  valor  were  wasted  in  its 
pursuit  than  were  ever  expended  before  or  since  in  peace  or 
war.  The  first  tangible  evidence  of  the  existence  of  the 
mythical  city  was  brought  to  Europe  by  Gonzales  Ximenes 
de  Casada,  a treacherous  knight  who  was  sent  out  by  Pizarro 
on  an  exploring  expedition  after  the  conquest  of  Peru. 

After  the  peaceful  incas  had  been  subjugated,  their  pal- 
aces and  temples  plundered,  and  their  cities  destroyed,  the 


256 


VENEZUELA 


restless  and  reckless  freebooters  that  bad  been  attracted  to 
Peril  gave  Pizarro  a great  deal  of  trouble.  The  viceroy 
deemed  it  prudent  to  keep  them  occupied,  for  a commu- 
nity of  idle  men  of  that  character  were  capable  of  infinite 
mischief.  Therefore,  as  the  fable  had  reached  Lima,  Pi- 
zarro organized  an  expedition  of  several  hundred  soldiers 
and  several  thousand  Indian  slaves  to  carry  their  supplies 
and  equipment,  and  sent  them  over  the  Andes  under  the 
command  of  his  brother  Gonzalo,  in  seach  of  the  Gilded 
King.  A more  desperate  and  turbulent  band  of  ruffians 
was  never  turned  loose  upon  the  world;  but,  fortunately,  few 
of  them  returned.  The  great  majority  left  their  bones  and 
armor  lying  unburied  upon  the  rocky  slopes  of  the  Andes 
and  among  the  forests  that  hide  the  affluents  of  the  Ori- 
noco and  the  Amazon. 

Gonzales  Ximenes  de  Casada,  who  was  an  officer  of  low 
rank  in  the  expedition,  with  a handful  of  selected  muti- 
neers, deserted  his  commander,  stole  his  food,  and,  finding 
the  sources  of  the  Orinoco,  followed  that  river  in  canoes, 
while  young  Pizarro  narrowly  escaped  death  from  starva- 
tion. To  avoid  the  consequences  of  his  desertion,  when 
he  arrived  in  Spain  Casada  told  most  fabulous  stories  of 
his  experience,  and  for  that  reason  was  welcomed  as  a hero 
instead  of  being  hung  as  a knave.  One  Antonio  Galvano 
wrote  a book  called  The  Discoveries  of  the  World,  describ- 
ing Casada’s  adventures,  and  that  volume  caused  more 
heart-burning  and  brain-fever  in  Europe  than  all  the  doc- 
tors of  medicine  or  geography  could  cure.  Casada  de- 
scribed a city  called  El  Dorado,  which  he  claimed  to  have 
found  in  the  midst  of  a great  white  lake,  whose  meanest 
house,  he  said,  surpassed  in  grandeur  the  palaces  of  the 
incas  and  the  xkztecs  and  the  temples  Pizarro  and  Cortez 
had  plundered  and  overthrown. 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


257 


“ All  the  vessels  in  the  kitchen,”  wrote  this  merciless 
liar,  “are  of  gold  and  silver  studded  with  diamonds  and 
precious  stones.  In  this  house  are  statues  of  solid  gold  as 
large  as  giants,  and  other  figures  in  proportion  of  the  beasts, 
birds,  fishes,  trees,  and  herbs  of  his  kingdom  ; yea,  and 
robes  and  budgets,  and  chests,  and  troughs  of  solid  gold. 
There  is  a garden  of  pleasure  in  the  island  where  the  peo- 
ple are  wont  to  recreate,  in  which  are  also  figures  of  gold 
and  silver  of  an  invention  and  magnificence  the  like  of 
which  was  never  seen.  And  the  king  of  that  country,  yea, 
and  all  his  court,  wear  apparel  of  the  most  famous  texture, 
so  that  it  doth  appear  like  garments  sprinkled  with  gold 
and  silver  from  his  sandals  to  his  crown.” 

These  falsehoods  were  read  and  believed  in  all  the  courts 
of  Europe,  and  cost  the  lives  of  thousands  of  the  bravest 
knights  of  two  centuries,  who  plunged  into  the  green  gulfs 
of  the  Amazon  and  the  Orinoco,  never  to  emerge  again.  Ca- 
sada  brought  lumps  of  virgin  gold  picked  up  in  Guiana  to 
prove  his  words,  and  even  the  fable  of  the  Amazons  seemed 
as  true  as  the  Gospels  to  explorers  who  had  seen  the  Carib 
women  in  Hispaniola  and  Jamaica,  and  along  the  Spanish 
Main,  fighting  as  warriors  by  their  husbands’  sides. 

One  of  the  most  tragic  and  romantic  stories  of  the  search 
for  El  Dorado  concerns  the  fate  of  Pedro  de  Ursua,  a noble, 
handsome,  generous,  and  popular  young  knight  of  Navarre, 
who  was  sent  by  his  uncle,  the  Viceroy  of  Peru,  at  the  head 
of  a large  army  to  find  and  plunder  the  city  that  was  paved 
with  silver,  and  the  river  that  flowed  over  sands  of  gold. 
His  sweetheart,  Dona  Inez  de  Atienza,  was  a beautiful 
young  woman  of  Trujillo,  and  hers  was  no  common  love. 
Although  gently  nurtured  and  of  delicate  physique,  accus- 
tomed to  surroundings  of  luxury  and  refinement,  she  in- 
sisted upon  sharing  his  adventures  and  hardships,  and,  as 

17 


258 


VENEZUELA 


the  ancient  chronicler  quaintly  expresses  it,  “ forsook  not 
her  lord  in  his  travels  even  unto  death.”  Inez  de  Atienza 
is  the  heroine  of  the  Orinoco  as  Madame  Godin  is  of  the 
Amazon. 

Ursua  was  assassinated  by  his  disappointed  lieutenants 
after  the  expedition  had  been  out  four  months,  and  a few 
days  afterwards  a fiend  incarnate,  named  Aguirre,  caused 
Ioez  to  be  murdered  in  her  sleep  because  her  mattress  took 
up  too  much  room  in  his  boat.  The  pious  chronicler  of 
the  expedition  exclaims : 

“ The  birds  mourned  on  the  trees,  the  wild  beasts  of  the 
forest  lamented,  the  waters  murmured  their  grief,  the  fish 
groaned  beneath  them,  and  the  winds  execrated  the  deed 
when  the  wicked  Llamoso  cut  the  veins  of  her  beautiful 
white  neck  while  she  was  sleeping,  and  let  the  blood  of  her 
pure  heart  flow  away.” 

She  was  buried  on  the  banks  of  the  Orinoco,  among  the 
forests  in  the  footdiills  of  the  Andes.  The  men  who  fol- 
lowed Aguirre  were  so  touched  by  her  fate  that  they  gath- 
ered flowers  to  cover  her  grave,  and  cut  this  epitaph  in  the 
bark  of  a tree  under  which  she  was  laid: 

This  is  the  burial-place  of  one  whose  beauty  and  faithfulness  are  un- 
equalled, and  whom  cruel  men  slew  without  cause. 

Columbus  and  Raleigh,  the  two  most  gifted  and  conscien- 
tious of  American  explorers,  told  tales  that  were  even  more 
fabulous  than  the  legends  of  Casada,  and  nobody  doubted 
their  truth.  John  Milton  himself  lent  them  credence  in 
Paradise  Lost , and  the  blessing  of  the  pope  gave  a sanctity 
to  the  search  for  the  savage  Croesus.  Columbus  was  de- 
rided, Cortez  was  sneered  at,  and  Pizarro  was  pronounced 
an  impostor,  but  the  world,  which  always  vibrates  between 


THE  DISPUTED  TERRITORY  OF  GUIANA 


259 


absolute  scepticism  and  absolute  credulity,  finally  came  to 
believe  not  only  in  them,  but  in  everything  their  imitators 
told. 

The  nuggets  of  gold  and  the  rudely  wrought  images  and 
ornaments  of  the  same  metal  which  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  laid 
at  the  feet  of  Queen  Elizabeth  when  he  returned  from  his 
exploration  of  the  Orinoco  doubtless  came  from  the  now 
famous  mine  of  El  Callao,  but  the  El  Dorado  was  never 
found.  No  courage  could  overcome,  no  persistence  could 
discover  what  did  not  exist,  and  the  fabulous  king  of  the 
fabulous  island  still  sits  on  his  fabulous  throne,  covered 
from  his  fabulous  crown  to  his  fabulous  sandals  with  the 
fabulous  dust  of  gold. 


APPENDIX 


MESSAGE 

FROM  THE 


PRESIDENT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 

Relative  to  the  Venezuelan  boundary  controversy ; and  correspondence 
with  the  British  Government  on  the  subject. 

To  the  Congress: 

In  my  annual  message  addressed  to  the  Congress  on  the  third  instant 
I called  attention  to  the  pending  boundary  controversy  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  Republic  of  Venezuela,  and  recited  the  substance  of  a 
representation  made  by  tins  Government  to  Her  Britannic  Majesty’s 
Government  suggesting  reasons  why  such  dispute  should  be  submitted 
to  arbitration  for  settlement,  and  inquiring  whether  it  would  be  so  sub- 
mitted. 

The  answer  of  the  British  Government,  which  was  then  awaited,  has 
since  been  received,  and,  together  with  the  despatch  to  which  it  is  a 
reply,  is  hereto  appended. 

Such  reply  is  embodied  in  two  communications  addressed  by  the 
British  Prime  Minister  to  Sir  Julian  Pauncefote,  the  British  Ambassa- 
dor at  this  Capital.  It  will  be  seen  that  one  of  these  communications 
is  devoted  exclusively  to  observations  upon  the  Monroe  doctrine,  and 
claims  that  in  the  present  instance  a new  and  strange  extension  and 
development  of  this  doctrine  is  insisted  on  by  the  United  States,  that 
the  reasons  justifying  an  appeal  to  the  doctrine  enunciated  by  President 


262 


VENEZUELA 


Monroe  are  generally  inapplicable  “ to  the  state  of  things  in  which  we 
live  at  the  present  day,”  and  especially  inapplicable  to  a controversy 
involving  the  boundary  line  between  Great  Britain  and  Venezuela. 

Vi  ithout  attempting  extended  argument  in  reply  to  these  positions,  it 
may  not  be  amiss  to  suggest  that  the  doctrine  upon  which  we  stand  is 
strong  and  sound  because  its  enforcement  is  important  to  our  peace  and 
safety  as  a nation,  and  is  essential  to  the  integrity  of  our  free  institu- 
tions and  the  tranquil  maintenance  of  our  distinctive  form  of  govern- 
ment. It  was  intended  to  apply  to  every  stage  of  our  national  life,  and 
can  not  become  obsolete  while  our  Republic  endures.  If  the  balance  of 
power  is  justly  a cause  for  jealous  anxiety  among  the  governments  of 
the  old  world,  and  a subject  for  our  absolute  non-interference,  none  the 
less  is  an  observance  of  the  Monroe  doctrine  of  vital  concern  to  our 
people  and  their  Government. 

Assuming,  therefore,  that  we  may  properly  insist  upon  this  doctrine 
without  regard  to  “ the  state  of  things  in  which  we  live,”  or  any  changed 
conditions  here  or  elsewhere,  it  is  not  apparent  why  its  application  may 
not  be  invoked  in  the  present  controversy. 

If  a European  power,  by  an  extension  of  its  boundaries,  takes  pos- 
session of  the  territory  of  one  of  our  neighboring  Republics  against  its 
will  and  in  derogation  of  its  rights,  it  is  difficult  to  see  why  to  that  ex- 
tent such  European  power  does  not  thereby  attempt  to  extend  its  sys- 
tem of  government  to  that  portion  of  this  continent  which  is  thus  taken. 
This  is  the  precise  action  which  President  Monroe  declared  to  be 
“ dangerous  to  our  peace  and  safety,”  and  it  can  make  no  difference 
whether  the  European  system  is  extended  by  an  advance  of  frontier  or 
otherwise. 

It  is  also  suggested  in  the  British  reply  that  we  should  not  seek  to 
apply  the  Monroe  doctrine  to  the  pending  dispute  because  it  does  not 
embody  any  principle  of  international  law  which  “is  founded  on  the 
general  consent  of  nations,”  and  that  “ no  statesman,  however  eminent, 
and  no  nation,  however  powerful,  are  competent  to  insert  into  the  code 
of  international  law  a novel  principle  which  was  never  recognized  before, 
and  which  has  not  since  been  accepted  by  the  Government  of  any 
other  country.” 

Practically  the  principle  for  which  we  contend  has  peculiar  if  not 
exclusive  relation  to  the  United  States.  It  may  not  have  been  admit- 
ted in  so  many  wrnrds  to  the  code  of  international  law,  but  since  in 
international  councils  every  nation  is  entitled  to  the  rights  belonging 


APPENDIX 


263 


to  it,  if  the  enforcement  of  the  Monroe  doctrine  is  something  we  may 
justly  claim  it  has  its  place  in  the  code  of  international  law  as  certainly 
and  as  securely  as  if  it  were  specifically  mentioned,  and  where  the  United 
States  is  a suitor  before  the  high  tribunal  that  administers  interna- 
tional law  the  question  to  be  determined  is  whether  or  not  we  present 
claims  which  the  justice  of  that  code  of  law  can  find  to  be  right  and 
valid. 

The  Monroe  doctrine  finds  its  recognition  in  those  principles  of  inter- 
national law  which  are  based  upon  the  theory  that  every  nation  shall 
have  its  rights  protected  and  its  just  claims  enforced. 

Of  course  this  Government  is  entirely  confident  that  under  the  sanc- 
tion of  this  doctrine  we  have  clear  rights  and  undoubted  claims.  Nor 
is  this  ignored  in  the  British  reply.  The  Prime  Minister,  while  not  ad- 
mitting that  the  Monroe  doctrine  is  applicable  to  present  conditions, 
states  : “In  declaring  that  the  United  States  would  resist  any  such  en- 
terprise if  it  was  contemplated,  President  Monroe  adopted  a policy  which 
received  the  entire  sympathy  of  the  English  Government  of  that  date.” 
He  further  declares:  “Though  the  language  of  President  Monroe  is 
directed  to  the  attainment  of  objects  which  most  Englishmen  would 
agree  to  be  salutary,  it  is  impossible  to  admit  that  they  have  been  in- 
scribed by  any  adequate  authority  in  the  code  of  international  law.” 
Again  he  says  : “ They  (Her  Majesty’s  Government)  fully  concur  writh 
the  view  which  President  Monroe  apparently  entertained,  that  any  dis- 
turbance of  the  existing  territorial  distribution  in  the  hemisphere  by  any 
fresh  acquisitions  on  the  part  of  any  European  State,  would  be  a highly 
inexpedient  change.” 

In  the  belief  that  the  doctrine  for  which  we  contend  was  clear  and 
definite,  that  it  was  founded  upon  substantial  considerations  and  in- 
volved our  safety  and  welfare,  that  it  wms  fully  applicable  to  our  pres- 
ent conditions  and  to  the  state  of  the  world’s  progress,  and  that  it  was 
directly  related  to  the  pending  controversy,  and  without  any  conviction 
as  to  the  final  merits  of  the  dispute,  but  anxious  to  learn  in  a satisfac- 
tory and  conclusive  manner  whether  Great  Britain  sought,  under  a 
claim  of  boundary,  to  extend  her  possessions  on  this  continent  without 
right,  or  whether  she  merely  sought  possession  of  territory  fairly  in- 
cluded within  her  lines  of  ownership,  this  Government  proposed  to  the 
Government  of  Great  Britain  a resort  to  arbitration  as  the  proper 
means  of  settling  the  question,  to  the  end  that  a vexatious  boundary 
dispute  between  the  two  contestants  might  be  determined  and  our  exact 


264 


VENEZUELA 


standing  and  relation  in  respect  to  the  controversy  might  be  made 
clear. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  correspondence  herewith  submitted  that  this 
proposition  has  been  declined  by  the  British  Government,  upon  grounds 
which  in  the  circumstances  seem  to  me  to  be  far  from  satisfactory.  It 
is  deeply  disappointing  that  such  an  appeal,  actuated  by  the  most 
friendly  feelings  towards  both  nations  directly  concerned,  addressed  to 
the  sense  of  justice  and  to  the  magnanimity  of  one  of  the  great  powers 
of  the  world  and  touching  its  relations  to  one  comparatively  weak  and 
small,  should  have  produced  no  better  results. 

The  course  to  be  pursued  by  this  Government  in  view  of  the  present 
condition  does  not  appear  to  admit  of  serious  doubt.  Having  labored 
faithfully  for  many  years  to  induce  Great  Britain  to  submit  this  dispute 
to  impartial  arbitration,  and  having  been  now  finally  apprized  of  her 
refusal  to  do  so,  nothing  remains  but  to  accept  the  situation,  to  recog- 
nize its  plain  requirements  and  deal  with  it  accordingly.  Great  Brit- 
ain’s present  proposition  has  never  thus  far  been  regarded  as  admis- 
sible by  Venezuela,  though  any  adjustment  of  the  boundary  which  that 
country  may  deem  for  her  advantage  and  may  enter  into  of  her  own 
free  will  cannot,  of  course,  be  objected  to  by  the  United  States. 

Assuming,  however,  that  the  attitude  of  Venezuela  will  remain  un- 
changed, the  dispute  has  reached  such  a stage  as  to  make  it  now  in- 
cumbent upon  the  United  States  to  take  measures  to  determine  with 
sufficient  certainty  for  its  justification  what  is  the  true  divisional  line 
between  the  Republic  of  Venezuela  and  British  Guiana.  The  inquiry 
to  that  end  should  of  course  be  conducted  carefully  and  judicially,  and 
due  weight  should  be  given  to  all  available  evidence,  records,  and  facts 
in  support  of  the  claims  of  both  parties. 

In  order  that  such  an  examination  should  be  prosecuted  in  a thor- 
ough and  satisfactory  manner,  I suggest  that  the  Congress  make  an 
adequate  appropriation  for  the  expenses  of  a Commission,  to  be  ap- 
pointed by  the  Executive,  who  shall  make  the  necessary  investigation 
and  report  upon  the  matter  with  the  least  possible  delay.  When  such 
report  is  made  and  accepted  it  will,  in  my  opinion,  be  the  duty  of  the 
United  States  to  resist  by  every  means  in  its  power  as  a wilful  aggres- 
sion upon  its  rights  and  interests  the  appropriation  by  Great  Britain  of 
any  lands  or  the  exercise  of  governmental  jurisdiction  over  any  territory 
which  after  investigation  we  have  determined  of  right  belongs  to 
Venezuela. 


APPENDIX 


265 


In  making  these  recommendations  I am  fully  alive  to  the  responsi- 
bility incurred,  and  keenly  realize  all  the  consequences  that  may  follow. 

I am,  nevertheless,  firm  in  my  conviction  that  while  it  is  a grievous 
thing  to  contemplate  the  two  great  English-speaking  peoples  of  the 
world  as  being  otherwise  than  friendly  competitors  in  the  onward 
march  of  civilization,  and  strenuous  and  worthy  rivals  in  all  the  arts  of 
peace,  there  is  no  calamity  which  a great  nation  can  invite  which  equals 
that  which  follows  a supine  submission  to  wrong  and  injustice,  and  the 
consequent  loss  of  national  self-respect  and  honor,  beneath  which  are 
shielded  and  defended  a people’s  safety  and  greatness. 

Grover  Cleveland. 

Executive  Mansion, 

December  17,  1895. 


Mr.  Olney  to  Mr.  Bayard. 

No.  804.]  Department  of  State, 

Washington,  July  20,  1895. 

His  Excellency  Thomas  F.  Bayard, 

Etc.,  etc.,  etc.,  London. 

Sir, — I am  directed  by  the  President  to  communicate  to  you  his  views 
upon  a subject  to  which  he  has  given  much  anxious  thought,  and 
respecting  which  he  has  not  reached  a conclusion  without  a lively  sense 
of  its  great  importance  as  well  as  of  the  serious  responsibility  involved 
in  any  action  now  to  be  taken. 

It  is  not  proposed,  and  for  present  purposes  is  not  necessary,  to  enter 
into  any  detailed  account  of  the  controversy  between  Great  Britain  and 
Venezuela  respecting  the  western  frontier  of  the  colony  of  British 
Guiana.  The  dispute  is  of  ancient  date,  and  began  at  least  as  early  as 
the  time  when  Great  Britain  acquired  by  the  treaty  with  the  Nether- 
lands of  1814  “the  establishments  of  Bemerara,  Essequibo,  and  Ber- 
bice.”  From  that  time  to  the  present  the  dividing  line  between  these 
“establishments”  (now  called  British  Guiana)  and  Venezuela  has 
never  ceased  to  be  a subject  of  contention.  The  claims  of  both  parties, 
it  must  be  conceded,  are  of  a somewhat  indefinite  nature.  On  the  one 
hand,  Venezuela,  in  every  constitution  of  government  since  she  became 
an  independent  State,  has  declared  her  territorial  limits  to  be  those  of 
the  Captaincy-General  of  Venezuela  in  1810.  Yet,  out  of  “moderation 
and  prudence,”  It  is  said,  she  has  contented  herself  with  claiming  the 


266 


VENEZUELA 


Essequibo  line — the  line  of  the  Essequibo  River,  that  is — to  be  the  true 
boundary  between  Venezuela  and  British  Guiana.  On  the  other  hand, 
at  least  an  equal  degree  of  indefiniteness  distinguishes  the  claim  of 
Great  Britain. 

It  does  not  seem  to  be  asserted,  for  instance,  that  in  1814  the  “es- 
tablishments ” then  acquired  by  Great  Britain  had  any  clearly  defined 
western  limits  which  can  now  be  identified,  and  which  are  either  the 
limits  insisted  upon  to-day,  or,  being  the  original  limits,  have  been  the 
basis  of  legitimate  territorial  extensions.  On  the  contrary,  having  the 
actual  possession  of  a district  called  the  Pomaron  district,  she  appar- 
ently remained  indifferent  as  to  the  exact  area  of  the  colony  until 
1840,  when  she  commissioned  an  engineer,  Sir  Robert  Schomburgk,  to 
examine  and  lay  down  its  boundaries.  The  result  was  the  Schomburgk 
line,  which  was  fixed  by  metes  and  bounds,  was  delineated  on  maps, 
and  was  at  first  indicated  on  the  face  of  the  country  itself  by  posts, 
monograms,  and  other  like  symbols.  If  it  was  expected  that  Venezuela 
would  acquiesce  in  this  line,  the  expectation  was  doomed  to  speedy  dis- 
appointment. Venezuela  at  once  protested,  and  with  such  vigor  and  to 
such  purpose  that  the  line  was  explained  to  be  only  tentative — part  of 
a general  boundary  scheme  concerning  Brazil  and  the  Netherlands  as 
well  as  Venezuela — and  the  monuments  of  the  line  set  up  by  Schom- 
burgk were  removed  by  the  express  order  of  Lord  Aberdeen.  Under 
these  circumstances,  it  seems  impossible  to  treat  the  Schomburgk  line 
as  being  the  boundary  claimed  by  Great  Britain  as  matter  of  right, 
or  as  anything  but  a line  originating  in  considerations  of  convenience 
and  expediency.  Since  1840  various  other  boundary  lines  have  from 
time  to  time  been  indicated  by  Great  Britain,  but  all  as  conventional 
lines — lines  to  which  Venezuela’s  assent  has  been  desired,  but  which  in 
no  instance,  it  is  believed,  have  been  demanded  as  matter  of  right. 
Thus,  neither  of  the  parties  is  to-day  standing  for  the  boundary  line 
predicated  upon  strict  legal  right — Great  Britain  having  formulated  no 
such  claim  at  all,  while  Venezuela  insists  upon  the  Essequibo  line  only 
as  a liberal  concession  to  her  antagonist. 

Several  other  features  of  the  situation  remain  to  be  briefly  noticed — 
the  continuous  growth  of  the  undefined  British  claim,  the  fate  of  the 
various  attempts  at  arbitration  of  the  controversy,  and  the  part  in  the 
matter  heretofore  taken  by  the  United  States.  As  already  seen,  the  ex- 
ploitation of  the  Schomburgk  line  in  1840  was  at  once  followed  by  the 
protest  of  Venezuela  and  by  proceedings  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain 


APPENDIX 


267 


which  could  be  fairly  interpreted  only  as  a disavowal  of  that  line. 
Indeed,  in  addition  to  the  facts  already  noticed,  Lord  Aberdeen  him- 
self in  1844  proposed  a line  beginning  at  the  River  Moroco,  a distinct 
abandonment  of  the  Schomburgk  line.  Notwithstanding  this,  how- 
ever, every  change  in  the  British  claim  since  that  time  has  moved  the 
frontier  of  British  Guiana  farther  and  farther  to  the  westward  of  the 
line  thus  proposed.  The  Granville  line  of  1881  placed  the  starting- 
point  at  a distance  of  twenty-nine  miles  from  the  Moroco  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Punta  Barima.  The  Rosebery  line  of  1886  placed  it  west  of  the 
Guaima  River,  and  about  that  time,  if  the  British  authority  known  as 
the  Statesman's  Year  Book  is  to  be  relied  upon,  the  area  of  British 
Guiana  was  suddenly  enlarged  by  some  33,000  square  miles — being 
stated  as  76,000  square  miles  in  18S5  and  109,000  square  miles  in  1887. 
The  Salisbury  line  of  1890  fixed  the  starting-point  of  the  line  in  the 
moutli  of  the  Amacuro  west  of  the  Punta  Barima  on  the  Orinoco. 
And  finally,  in  1893,  a second  Rosebery  line  carried  the  boundary 
from  a point  to  the  west  of  the  Amacuro  as  far  as  the  source  of  the 
Cumano  River  and  the  Sierra  of  Usupamo.  Nor  have  the  various 
claims  thus  enumerated  been  claims  on  paper  merely.  An  exercise  of 
jurisdiction  corresponding  more  or  less  to  such  claims  has  accompanied 
or  followed  closely  upon  each,  and  has  been  the  more  irritating  and 
unjustifiable  if,  as  is  alleged,  an  agreement  made  in  the  year  1860 
bound  both  parties  to  refrain  from  such  occupation  pending  the  settle- 
ment of  the  dispute. 

While  the  British  claim  has  been  developing  in  the  manner  above 
described,  Venezuela  has  made  earnest  and  repeated  efforts  to  have 
the  question  of  boundary  settled.  Indeed,  allowance  being  made  for 
the  distractions  of  a war  of  independence  and  for  frequent  internal 
revolutions,  it  may  be  fairly  said  that  Venezuela  has  never  ceased  to 
strive  for  its  adjustment.  It  could,  of  course,  do  so  only  through 
peaceful  methods,  any  resort  to  force  as  against  its  powerful  adversary 
being  out  of  the  question.  Accordingly,  shortly  after  the  drawing  of 
the  Schomburgk  line,  an  effort  was  made  to  settle  the  boundary  by 
treaty  and  was  apparently  progressing  towards  a successful  issue  when 
the  negotiations  were  brought  to  an  end  in  1844  by  the  death  of  the 
Venezuelan  plenipotentiary. 

In  1848  Venezuela  entered  upon  a period  of  civil  commotions  which 
lasted  for  more  than  a quarter  of  a century,  and  the  negotiations  thus 
interrupted  in  1844  were  not  resumed  until  1876.  In  that  year  Vene- 


268 


VENEZUELA 


zuela  offered  to  close  the  dispute  by  accepting  the  Moroco  line  proposed 
by  Lord  Aberdeen.  But,  without  giving  reasons  for  his  refusal,  Lord 
Granville  rejected  the  proposal  and  suggested  a new  line  comprehend- 
ing a large  tract  of  territory,  all  pretension  to  which  seemed  to  have 
been  abandoned  by  the  previous  action  of  Lord  Aberdeen.  Venezuela 
refused  to  assent  to  it,  and  negotiations  dragged  along  without  result 
until  1882,  when  Venezuela  concluded  that  the  only  course  open  to  her 
was  arbitration  of  the  controversy.  Before  she  had  made  any  definite 
proposition,  however,  Great  Britain  took  the  initiative  by  suggesting 
the  making  of  a treaty  which  should  determine  various  other  questions 
as  well  as  that  of  the  disputed  boundary.  The  result  was  that  a treaty 
was  practically  agreed  upon  with  the  Gladstone  government  in  1886 
containing  a general  arbitration  clause  under  which  the  parties  might 
have  submitted  the  boundary  dispute  to  the  decision  of  a third  power 
or  of  several  powers  in  amity  with  both. 

Before  the  actual  signing  of  the  treaty,  however,  the  administration 
of  Mr.  Gladstone  was  superseded  by  that  of  Lord  Salisbury,  which  de- 
clined to  accede  to  the  arbitration  clause  of  the  treaty,  notwithstand- 
ing the  reasonable  expectations  of  Venezuela  to  the  contrary,  based 
upon  the  Premier’s  emphatic  declaration  in  the  House  of  Lords  that  no 
serious  government  would  think  of  not  respecting  the  engagements  of 
its  predecessor.  Since  then  Venezuela,  on  the  one  side,  has  been  offer- 
ing and  calling  for  arbitration,  while  Great  Britain,  on  the  other,  has 
responded  by  insisting  upon  the  condition  that  any  arbitration  should 
relate  only  to  such  of  the  disputed  territory  as  lies  west  of  a line  des- 
ignated by  herself.  As  this  condition  seemed  inadmissible  to  Vene- 
zuela, and  as,  while  the  negotiations  were  pending,  new  appropriations 
of  what  is  claimed  to  be  Venezuelan  territory  continued  to  be  made, 
Venezuela  in  1887  suspended  diplomatic  relations  with  Great  Britain, 
protesting  “ before  Iler  British  Majesty’s  Government,  before  all  civil- 
ized nations  and  before  the  world  in  general,  against  the  acts  of  spolia- 
tion committed  to  her  detriment  by  the  Government  of  Great  Britain, 
which  she  at  no  time  and  on  no  account  will  recognize  as  capable  of 
altering  in  the  least  the  rights  which  she  has  inherited  from  Spain,  and 
respecting  which  she  will  ever  be  willing  to  submit  to  the  decision  of  a 
third  power.” 

Diplomatic  relations  have  not  since  been  restored,  though  what  is 
claimed  to  be  new  and  flagrant  British  aggressions  forced  Venezuela 
to  resume  negotiations  on  the  boundary  question — in  1890,  through  its 


APPENDIX 


269 


Minister  in  Paris  and  a special  envoy  on  that  subject,  and  in  1893, 
through  a confidential  agent,  Sefior  Michelena.  These  negotiations, 
however,  met  with  the  fate  of  other  like  previous  negotiations — Great 
Britain  refusing  to  arbitrate  except  as  to  territory  west  of  an  arbitrary 
line  drawn  by  herself.  All  attempts  in  that  direction  definitely  termi- 
nated in  October,  1893,  when  Sefior  Michelena  filed  with  the  Foreign 
Office  the  following  declaration  : 

11 1 perform  a most  strict  duty  in  raising  again  in  the  name  of  the  Government  of 
Venezuela  a most  solemn  protest  against  the  proceedings  of  the  Colony  of  British 
Guiana,  constituting  encroachments  upon  the  territory  of  the  Republic,  and  against 
the  declaration  contained  in  Your  Excellency’s  communication  that  Her  Britannic 
Majesty’s  Government  considers  that  part  of  the  territory  as  pertaining  to  British 
Guiana  and  admits  no  claim  to  it  on  the  part  of  Venezuela.  In  support  of  this  pro- 
test I reproduce  all  the  arguments  presented  to  Your  Excellency  in  my  note  of  29 
of  last  September  and  those  which  have  been  exhibited  by  the  Government  of 
Venezuela  on  the  various  occasions  they  have  raised  the  same  protest. 

“ I lay  on  Her  Britannic  Majesty’s  Government  the  entire  responsibility  of  the 
incidents  that  may  arise  in  the  future  from  the  necessity  to  which  Venezuela  has 
been  driven  to  oppose  by  all  possible  means  the  dispossession  of  a part  of  her  ter- 
ritory, for  by  disregarding  her  just  representation  to  put  an  end  to  this  violent 
state  of  affairs  through  the  decision  of  arbiters,  Her  Majesty’s  Government  ignores 
her  rights  and  imposes  upon  her  the  painful  though  peremptory  duty  of  providing 
for  her  own  legitimate  defence.” 

To  the  territorial  controversy  between  Great  Britain  and  the  Repub- 
lic of  Venezuela,  thus  briefly  outlined,  the  United  States  has  not  been 
and,  indeed,  in  view  of  its  traditional  policy,  could  not  be  indifferent. 
The  note  to  the  British  Foreign  Office  by  which  Venezuela  opened  ne- 
gotiations in  1876  was  at  once  communicated  to  this  Government.  In 
January,  1881,  a letter  of  the  Venezuelan  Minister  at  Washington, 
respecting  certain  alleged  demonstrations  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco, 
was  thus  answered  by  Mr.  Evarts,  then  Secretary  of  State : 

“ In  reply  I have  to  inform  you  that  in  view  of  the  deep  interest  which  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  takes  in  all  transactions  tending  to  attempted  en- 
croachments of  foreign  powers  upon  the  territory  of  any  of  the  Republics  of  this 
continent,  this  Government  could  not  look  with  indifference  to  the  forcible  ac- 
quisition of  such  territory  by  England  if  the  mission  of  the  vessels  now  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Orinoco  should  be  found  to  be  for  that  end.  This  Government  awaits, 
therefore,  with  natural  concern  the  more  particular  statements  promised  by  the 
Government  of  Venezuela,  which  it  hopes  will  not  be  long  delayed.” 

In  the  February  following,  Mr.  Evarts  wrote  again  on  the  same  sub- 
ject as  follows : 


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“ Referring  to  your  note  of  the  21st  of  December  l ist,  touching  the  operations  of 
certain  British  war  vessels  in  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco  River,  and  to  my 
reply  thereto  of  the  31st  ultimo,  as  well  as  to  the  recent  occasions  in  which  ihe  sub- 
ject has  beeu  mentioned  in  our  conferences  concerning  the  business  of  your  mission, 
I take  it  to  be  fitting  now  at  the  close  of  my  incumbency  of  the  office  I hold  to  ad- 
vert to  the  interest  with  which  the  Government  of  the  United  States  cannot  fail  to 
regard  any  such  purpose  with  respect  to  the  control  of  American  territory  as  is 
stated  to  be  contemplated  by  the  Government  of  Great  Britain,  and  to  express  my 
regret  that  the  further  information  promised  in  your  note  with  regard  to  such  de- 
signs had  not  reached  me  in  season  to  receive  the  attention  which,  notwithstanding 
the  severe  pressure  of  public  business  at  the  end  of  an  administrative  term,  I 
should  have  taken  pleasure  in  bestowing  upon  it.  I doubt  not,  however,  that  your 
representations  in  fulfilment  of  the  awaited  additional  orders  of  your  Government 
will  have  like  earnest  and  solicitous  consideration  at  the  hands  of  my  successor.” 

In  November,  1882,  tbe  then  state  of  negotiations  with  Great  Britain, 
together  witli  a copy  of  an  intended  note  suggesting  recourse  to  arbi- 
tration, was  communicated  to  the  Secretary  of  State  by  the  President 
of  Venezuela  with  the  expression  of  the  hope  that  the  United  States 
would  give  him  its  opinion  and  advice  and  such  support  as  it  deemed 
possible  to  offer  Venezuela  in  order  that  justice  should  be  done  her. 
Mr.  Frelinghuysen  replied  in  a despatch  to  the  United  States  Minister 
at  Caracas  as  follows  : 

“This  Government  has  already  expressed  its  view  that  arbitration  of  such  dis- 
putes is  a convenient  resort  in  the  case  of  failure  to  come  to  a mutual  understand- 
ing, and  intimated  its  willingness,  if  Venezuela  should  so  desire,  to  propose  to 
Great  Britain  such  a mode  of  settlement.  It  is  felt  that  the  tender  of  good  offices 
would  not  be  so  profitable  if  the  United  States  were  to  approach  Great  Britain  as 
the  advocate  of  any  prejudged  solution  in  favor  of  Venezuela.  So  far  as  the  United 
States  can  counsel  and  assist  Venezuela,  it  believes  it  best  to  confine  its  reply  to 
the  renewal  of  the  suggestion  of  arbitration  and  the  oficr  of  all  its  good  offices  in 
that  direction.  This  suggestion  is  the  more  easily  made,  since  it  appears,  from  the 
instruction  sent  by  Senor  Seijas  to  the  Venezuelan  Minister  in  London  on  the  same 
15th  of  July,  1882,  that  the  President  of  Venezuela  proposed  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment thesubmission  of  the  dispute  to  arbitration  by  a third  power. 

“You  will  take  an  early  occasion  to  present  the  foregoing  considerations  to 
Senor  Seijas,  saying  to  him  that,  while  trusting  that  the  direct  proposal  for  arbi- 
tration already  made  to  Great  Britain  may  bear  good  fruit  (if,  indeed,  it  has  not  al- 
ready done  so  by  its  acceptance  in  princ  pie),  the  Government  of  the  United  States 
will  cheerfully  lend  any  needful  aid  to  press  upon  Great  Britain  iu  a friendly  way 
the  proposition  so  made,  and  at  the  same  time  you  will  say  to  Senor  Seijas  (in  per- 
sonal conference,  and  not  with  the  formality  of  a written  communication)  that  the 
United  States,  while  advocating  strongly  the  recourse  of  arbitration  for  the  adjust- 
ment of  international  disputes  affecting  the  states  of  America,  does  not  seek  to  put 
itself  forward  as  their  arbiter  ; that,  viewing  all  such  questions  impartially  and 


APPENDIX 


271 


with  no  intent  or  desire  to  prejudge  their  merits,  the  United  States  will  not  refuse 
its  arbitration  if  asked  by  both  parties,  and  that,  regarding  all  such  questions  as 
essentially  and  distinctively  American,  the  United  States  would  always  prefer  to 
see  such  contentions  adjusted  through  the  arbitrament  of  an  American  rather 
than  an  European  power.” 

In  1884  General  Guzman  Blanco,  the  Venezuelan  Minister  to  Eng- 
land, appointed  with  special  reference  to  pending  negotiations  for  a 
general  treaty  with  Great  Britain,  visited  Washington  on  his  way  to 
London,  and,  after  several  conferences  with  the  Secretary  of  State  re- 
specting the  objects  of  his  mission,  was  thus  commended  to  the  good 
offices  of  Mr.  Lowell,  our  Minister  at  St.  James’ : 

“It  will  necessarily  be  somewhat  within  your  discretion  how  far  your  good  of- 
fices may  be  profitably  employed  with  Her  Majesty’s  Government  to  these  ends, 
and  at  any  rate  you  may  take  proper  occasion  to  let  Lord  Granville  know  that  we 
are  not  without  concern  as  to  whatever  may  affect  the  interests  of  a sister  Repub- 
lic of  the  American  continent  and  its  position  in  the  family  of  nations. 

“If  General  Guzman  should  apply  to  you  for  advice  or  assistance  in  realizing 
the  purposes  of  his  mission  you  will  show  him  proper  consideration,  and  without 
committing  the  United  States  to  any  determinate  political  solution  you  will  en- 
deavor to  carry  out  the  views  of  this  instruction.” 

The  progress  of  General  Guzman’s  negotiations  did  not  fail  to  be 
observed  by  this  Government,  and  in  December,  1886,  with  a view  to 
preventing  the  rupture  of  diplomatic  relations — which  actually  took 
place  in  February  following — the  then  Secretary  of  State,  Mr.  Bayard, 
instructed  our  Minister  to  Great  Britain  to  tender  the  arbitration  of 
the  United  States,  in  the  following  terms: 

“It  does  not  appear  that  at  any  time  heretofore  the  good  offices  of  this  Govern- 
ment have  been  actually  tendered  to  avert  a rupture  between  Great  Britain  and 
Venezuela.  As  intimated  in  my  No.  58,  our  inaction  in  this  regard  would  seem  to 
be  due  to  the  reluctance  of  Venezuela  to  have  the  Government  of  the  United  States 
take  any  steps  having  relation  to  the  action  of  the  British  Government  which 
might,  in  appearance  even,  prejudice  the  resort  to  further  arbitration  or  mediation 
which  Venezuela  desired.  Nevertheless,  the  records  abundantly  testify  our  friend- 
ly concern  in  the  adjustment  of  the  dispute  ; and  the  intelligence  now  received 
warrants  me  in  tendering  through  you  to  Her  Majesty’s  Government  the  good  of- 
fices of  the  United  States  to  promote  an  amicable  settlement  of  the  respective 
claims  of  Great  Britain  and  Venezuela  in  the  premises. 

“ As  proof  of  the  impartiality  with  which  we  view  the  question,  we  offer  our 
arbitration,  if  acceptable  to  both  countries.  We  do  this  with  the  less  hesitancy  as 
the  dispute  turns  upon  simple  and  readily  ascertainable  historical  facts. 

“ Her  Majesty’s  Government  will  readily  understand  that  this  attitude  of  friendly 


272 


VENEZUELA 


neutrality  and  entire  impartiality  touching  the  merits  of  the  controversy,  consisting 
wholly  in  a difference  of  facts  between  our  friends  aud  neighbors,  is  entirely  consist- 
ent and  compatible  with  the  sense  of  responsibility  that  rests  upon  the  United 
States  in  relation  to  the  South  American  republics.  The  doctrines  we  announced 
two  generations  ago,  at  the  instance  and  with  the  moral  support  and  approval  of 
the  British  Government,  have  lost  none  of  their  force  or  importance  in  the  progress 
of  time,  and  the  Governments  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  are  equally 
interested  in  conserving  a status,  the  wisdom  of  which  has  been  demonstrated  by 
the  experience  of  more  than  half  a century. 

“ It  is  proper,  therefore,  that  you  should  convey  to  Lord  Iddesleigh,  in  such  suffi- 
ciently guarded  terms  as  your  discretion  may  dictate,  the  satisfaction  that  would 
be  felt  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  in  perceiving  that  its  wishes  in  this 
regard  were  permitted  to  have  influence  with  Her  Majesty’s  Government.” 

This  offer  of  mediation  was  declined  by  Great  Britain,  with  the  state- 
ment that  a similar  offer  had  already  been  received  from  another  quarter, 
and  that  the  Queen’s  Government  were  still  not  without  hope  of  a set- 
tlement by  direct  diplomatic  negotiations.  In  February,  1888,  having 
been  informed  that  the  Governor  of  British  Guiana  had  by  formal  de- 
cree laid  claim  to  the  territory  traversed  by  the  route  of  a proposed 
railway  from  Ciudad  Bolivar  to  Guacipati,  Mr.  Bayard  addressed  a 
note  to  our  Minister  to  Fiiigland,  from  which  the  following  extracts  are 
taken : 

“ The  claim  now  stated  to  have  been  put  forth  by  the  authorities  of  British  Guiana 
necessarily  gives  rise  to  grave  disquietude,  and  creates  an  apprehension  that  the 
territorial  claim  does  not  follow  historical  traditions  or  evidence,  but  is  apparently 
indefinite.  At  no  time  hitherto  does  it  appear  that  the  district,  of  which  Guacipati 
is  the  centre,  has  been  claimed  as  British  territory,  or  that  such  jurisdiction  has 
ever  been  asserted  over  its  inhabitants,  and  if  the  reported  decree  of  the  Governor 
of  British  Guiana  be  indeed  genuine,  it  is  not  apparent  how  any  line  of  railway 
from  Ciudad  Bolivar  to  Guacipati  could  enter  or  traverse  territory  within  the  con- 
trol of  Great  Britain. 

“It  is  true  that  the  lineclaimed  by  Great  Britain  as  the  western  boundary  of  Brit- 
ish Guiana  is  uncertain  and  vague.  It  is  only  necessary  to  examine  the  British 
Colonial  Office  List  for  a few  years  back  to  perceive  this.  In  the  issue  for  1877, 
for  instance,  the  line  runs  nearly  southwardly  from  the  mouth  of  the  Amacuro  to 
the  junction  of  the  Cotinga  and  Takutu  rivers.  In  the  issue  of  1887,  ten  years  later, 
it  makes  a wide  detour  to  the  westward,  following  the  Yuruari.  Guacipati  lies  con- 
siderably to  the  westward  of  the  line  officially  claimed  in  1887,  and  it  may  perhaps 
he  instructive  to  compare  with  it  the  map  which  doubtless  will  be  found  in  the 
Colonial  Office  List  for  the  present  year. 

“ It  may  be  well  for  you  to  express  anew  to  Lord  Salisbury  the  great  gratification 
it  would  aflbrd  this  Government  to  see  the  Venezuelan  dispute  amicably  and  hon- 
orably settled  by  arbitration  or  otherwise,  and  our  readiness  to  do  anything  we 
properly  can  to  assist  to  that  end. 


APPENDIX 


273 


“ In  the  course  of  your  conversation  you  may  refer  to  the  publication  in  the  Lon- 
don Financier  of  January  2-t  (a  copy  of  which  you  can  procure  and  exhibit  to  Lord 
Salisbury),  and  express  apprehension  lest  the  widening  pretensions  of  British  Guiana 
to  possess  territory  over  which  Venezuela’s  jurisdiction  has  never  heretofore  been 
disputed  may  not  diminish  the  chances  for  a practical  settlement. 

“If,  indeed,  it  should  appear  that  there  is  no  fixed  limit  to  the  British  boundary 
claim,  our  good  disposition  to  aid  in  a settlement  might  not  only  be  defeated,  but 
be  obliged  to  give  place  to  a feeling  of  grave  concern.” 

In  1889,  information  having  been  received  that  Barima,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Orinoco,  had  been  declared  a British  port,  Mr.  Blaine,  then  Sec- 
retary of  State,  authorized  Mr.  White  to  confer  with  Lord  Salisbury  for 
the  re-establishment  of  diplomatic  relations  between  Great  Britain  and 
Venezuela  on  the  basis  of  a temporary  restoration  of  the  status  quo,  and 
May  1 and  May  6,  1890,  sent  the  following  telegrams  to  our  Minister  to 
England,  Mr.  Lincoln  (May  1,  1890): 

“ Mr.  Lincoln  is  instructed  to  use  his  good  offices  with  Lord  Salisbury  to  bring 
about  the  resumption  of  diplomatic  intercourse  between  Great  Britain  and  Vene- 
zuela as  a preliminary  step  towards  the  settlement  of  the  boundary  dispute  by  arbi- 
tration. The  joint  proposals  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  towards  Portu- 
gal which  have  just  been  brought  about  would  seem  to  make  the  present  time 
propitious  for  submitting  this  question  to  an  international  arbitration.  He  is  re- 
quested to  propose  to  Lord  Salisbury,  with  a view  to  an  accommodation,  that  an 
informal  conference  be  had  in  Washington  or  in  London  of  representatives  of  the 
three  Powers.  In  such  conference  the  position  of  the  United  States  is  one  solely  of 
impartial  friendship  towards  both  litigants. 

“ (May  6,  1890)  : 

“ It  is,  nevertheless,  desired  that  you  shall  do  all  you  can  consistently  with  our 
attitude  of  impartial  friendship  to  induce  someaccord  between  the  contestants  by 
which  the  merits  of  the  controversy  may  be  fairly  ascertained  and  the  rights  of 
each  party  justly  confirmed.  The  neutral  position  of  this  Government  does  not 
comport  with  any  expression  of  opinion  on  the  part  of  this  Department  as  to  what 
these  rights  are,  but  it  is  confident  that  the  shifting  footing  on  which  the  British 
boundary  question  has  rested  for  several  years  past  is  an  obstacle  to  such  a correct 
appreciation  of  the  nature  and  grounds  of  her  claim  as  would  alone  warrant  the 
formation  of  any  opinion.” 

In  the  course  of  the  same  year,  1890.  Venezuela  sent  to  London  a 
special  envoy  to  bring  about  the  resumption  of  diplomatic  relations 
with  Great  Britain  through  the  good  offices  of  the  United  States  Min- 
ister. But  the  mission  failed  because  a condition  of  such  resumption, 
steadily  adhered  to  by  Venezuela,  was  the  reference  of  the  boundary 
dispute  to  arbitration.  Since  the  close  of  the  negotiations  initiated  by 
Sefior  Michelena  in  1893,  Venezuela  has  repeatedly  brought  the  contro- 
ls 


274 


VENEZUELA 


versy  to  the  notice  of  the  United  States,  has  insisted  upon  its  importance 
to  the  United  States  as  well  as  to  Venezuela,  has  represented  it  to  have 
reached  an  acute  stage — making  definite  action  by  the  United  States 
imperative — and  has  not  ceased  to  solicit  the  services  and  support  of 
the  United  States  in  aid  of  its  final  adjustment.  These  appeals  have 
not  been  received  with  indifference,  and  our  Ambassador  to  Great  Britain 
has  been  uniformly  instructed  to  exert  all  his  influence  in  the  direction 
of  the  re-establishment  of  diplomatic  relations  between  Great  Britain 
and  Venezuela  and  in  favor  of  arbitration  of  the  boundary  controversy. 
The  Secretary  of  State  in  a communication  to  Mr.  Bayard,  bearing  date 
July  13,  1894,  used  the  following  language: 

“The  President  is  inspired  by  a desire  for  a peaceable  and  honorable  settlement 
of  the  existing  difficulties  between  an  American  state  and  a powerful  transatlantic 
nation,  and  would  be  glad  to  see  the  re-establishment  of  such  diplomatic  relations 
between  them  as  would  promote  that  end. 

“I  can  discern  but  two  equitable  solutions  of  the  present  controversy.  One  is 
the  arbitral  determination  of  the  rights  of  the  disputants  as  the  respective  suc- 
cessors to  the  historical  rights  of  Holland  and  Spain  over  the  region  in  question. 
The  other  is  to  create  a new  boundary  line  in  accordance  with  the  dictates  of  mut- 
ual expediency  and  consideration.  The  two  Governments  having  so  far  been  un- 
able to  agree  on  a conventional  line,  the  consistent  and  conspicuous  advocacy  by 
the  United  States  and  England  of  the  principle  of  arbitration  and  their  recourse 
thereto  in  settlement  of  important  questions  arising  between  them  makes  such  a 
mode  of  adjustment  especially  appropriate  in  the  present  instance,  and  this  Govern- 
ment will  gladly  do  what  it  can  to  further  a determination  in  that  sense.” 

Subsequent  communications  to  Mr.  Bayard  direct  him  to  ascertain 
whether  a Minister  from  Venezuela  would  be  received  by  Great  Britain. 
In  the  annual  Message  to  Congress  of  December  3d  last,  the  President 
used  the  following  language  : 

“ The  boundary  of  British  Guiana  still  remains  in  dispute  between  Great  Britain 
and  Venezuela.  Believing  that  its  early  settlement,  on  some  just  basis  alike  honor- 
able to  both  parties,  is  in  the  line  of  our  established  policy  to  remove  from  this  hem- 
isphere all  causes  of  difference  with  powers  beyond  the  sea,  I shall  renew  the 
efforts  heretofore  made  to  bring  about  a restoration  of  diplomatic  relations  between 
the  disputants  and  to  induce  a reference  to  arbitration,  a resort  which  Great  Britain 
so  conspicuously  favors  in  principle  and  respects  in  practice  and  which  is  earnestly 
sought  by  her  weaker  adversary.” 

And  February  22,  1895,  a joint  resolution  of  Congress  declared 

“That  the  President’s  suggestion  . . . that  Great  Britian  and  Venezuela  refer 
their  dispute  as  to  boundaries  to  friendly  arbitration  be  earnestly  recommended 
to  the  favorable  consideration  of  both  parties  in  interest.” 


APPENDIX 


275 


The  important  features  of  the  existing  situation,  as  shown  by  the  fore- 
going recital,  may  be  briefly  stated. 

1.  The  title  to  territory  of  indefinite  but  confessedly  very  large  ex- 
tent is  in  dispute  between  Great  Britain  on  the  one  hand  and  the  South 
American  Republic  of  Venezuela  on  the  other. 

2.  The  disparity  in  the  strength  of  the  claimants  is  such  that  Vene- 
zuela can  hope  to  establish  her  claim  only  through  peaceful  methods — 
through  an  agreement  with  her  adversary  either  upon  the  subject  itself 
or  upon  an  arbitration. 

3.  The  controversy,  with  varying  claims  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain, 
has  existed  for  more  than  half  a century,  during  which  period  many 
earnest  and  persistent  efforts  of  Venezuela  to  establish  a boundary  by 
agreement  have  proved  unsuccessful. 

4.  The  futility  of  the  endeavor  to  obtain  a conventional  line  being  rec- 
ognized, Venezuela  for  a quarter  of  a century  has  asked  and  striven 
for  arbitration. 

5.  Great  Britain,  however,  has  always  and  continuously  refused  to 
arbitrate,  except  upon  the  condition  of  a renunciation  of  a large  part  of 
the  Venezuelan  claim  and  of  a concession  to  herself  of  a large  share  of 
the  territory  in  controversy. 

6.  By  the  frequent  interposition  of  its  good  offices  at  the  instance  of 
Venezuela,  bv  constantly  urging  and  promoting  the  restoration  of  dip- 
lomatic relations  between  the  two  countries,  by  pressing  for  arbitration 
of  the  disputed  boundary,  by  offering  to  act  as  arbitrator,  by  express- 
ing its  grave  concern  whenever  new  alleged  instances  of  British  aggres- 
sion upon  Venezuelan  territory  have  been  brought  to  its  notice,  the 
Government  of  the  United  States  has  made  it  clear  to  Great  Britain  and 
to  the  world  that  the  controversy  is  one  in  which  both  its  honor  and  its 
interests  are  involved  and  the  continuance  of  which  it  cannot  regard 
with  indifference. 

The  accuracy  of  the  foregoing  analysis  of  the  existing  status  cannot, 
it  is  believed,  be  challenged.  It  shows  that  status  to  be  such  that 
those  charged  with  the  interests  of  the  United  States  are  now  forced  to 
determine  exactly  what  those  interests  are  and  what  course  of  action 
they  require.  It  compels  them  to  decide  to  what  extent,  if  any,  the 
United  Slates  may  and  should  intervene  in  a controversy  between  and 
primarily  concerning  only  Great  Britain  and  Venezuela,  and  to  decide 
how  far  it  is  bound  to  see  that  the  integrity  of  Venezuelan  territory  is 
not  impaired  by  the  pretensions  of  its  powerful  antagonist.  Are  any 


276 


VENEZUELA 


such  right  and  duty  devolved  upon  the  United  States  ? If  not,  the 
United  States  has  already  done  all,  if  not  more  than  all,  that  a purely 
sentimental  interest  in  the  affairs  of  the  two  countries  justifies,  and  to 
push  its  interposition  further  would  be  unbecoming  and  undignified, 
and  might  well  subject  it  to  the  charge  of  impertinent  intermeddling 
with  affairs  with  which  it  has  no  rightful  concern.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  any  such  right  and  duty  exist,  their  due  exercise  and  discharge  will 
not  permit  of  any  action  that  shall  not  be  efficient  and  that,  if  the 
power  of  the  United  States  is  adequate,  shall  not  result  in  the  accom- 
plishment of  the  end  in  view.  The  question  thus  presented,  as  matter 
of  principle  and  regard  being  had  to  the  settled  national  policy,  does 
not  sectn  difficult  of  solution.  Yet  the  momentous  practical  conse- 
quences dependent  npon  its  determination  require  that  it  should  be 
carefully  considered,  and  that  the  grounds  of  the  conclusion  arrived  at 
should  be  fully  and  frankly  stated. 

That  there  are  circumstances  under  which  a nation  may  justly  inter- 
pose in  a controversy  to  which  two  or  more  other  nations  are  the  direct 
and  immediate  parties  is  an  admitted  canon  of  international  law.  The 
doctrine  is  ordinarily  expressed  in  terms  of  the  most  general  character 
and  is  perhaps  inoapable  of  more  specific  statement.  It  is  declared  in 
substance  that  a nation  may  avail  itself  of  this  right  whenever  what  is 
done  or  proposed  by  any  of  the  parties  primarily  concerned  is  a serious 
and  direct  menace  to  its  own  integrity,  tranquillity,  or  welfare.  The 
propriety  of  the  rule  when  applied  in  good  faith  will  not  be  questioned 
in  any  quarter.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  an  inevitable  though  unfort- 
unate consequence  of  the  wide  scope  of  the  rule  that  it  has  only  too 
often  been  made  a cloak  for  schemes  of  wanton  spoliation  and  aggran- 
dizement. We  are  concerned  at  this  time,  however,  not  so  much  with 
the  general  rule  as  with  a form  of  it  which  is  peculiarly  and  distinc- 
tivelv  American.  Washington,  in  the  solemn  admonitions  of  the  Fare- 
well Address,  explicitly  warned  his  countrymen  against  entanglements 
with  the  politics  or  the  controversies  of  European  powers. 


“Europe,”  lie  said,  “has  a set  of  primary  interests  which  to  us  have  none  or  a 
very  remote  relation.  Hence  she  must  be  engaged  in  frequent  controversies,  the 
causes  of  which  are  essentially  foreign  to  our  concerns.  Hence,  therefore,  it  must 
be  unwise  in  us  to  implicate  ourselves  by  artificial  ties  in  the  ordinary  vicissitudes 
of  her  politics  or  the  ordinary  combinations  and  collisions  of  her  friendships  or 
enmities.  Our  detached  and  distant  situation  invites  and  enables  us  to  pursue  a 
different  course." 


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277 

During  the  administration  of  President  Monroe  this  doctrine  of  the 
Farewell  Address  was  first  considered  in  all  its  aspects  and  with  a view 
to  all  its  practical  consequences.  The  Farewell  Address,  while  it  took 
America  out  of  the  field  of  European  politics,  was  silent  as  to  the  part 
Europe  might  be  permitted  to  play  in  America.  Doubtless  it  was 
thought  the  latest  addition  to  the  family  of  nations  should  not  make 
haste  to  prescribe  rules  for  the  guidance  of  its  older  members,  and  the 
expediency  and  propriety  of  serving  the  powers  of  Europe  with  notice 
of  a complete  and  distinctive  American  policy  excluding  them  from  in- 
terference with  American  political  affairs  might  well  seem  dubious  to  a 
generation  to  whom  the  French  alliance,  with  its  manifold  advantages 
to  the  cause  of  American  independence,  was  fresh  in  mind. 

Twenty  years  later,  however,  the  situation  had  changed.  The  lately 
born  nation  had  greatly  increased  in  power  and  resources,  had  demon- 
strated its  strength  on  land  and  sea,  and  as  well  in  the  conflicts  of  arms 
as  in  the  pursuits  of  peace,  and  had  begun  to  realize  the  commanding 
position  on  this  continent  which  the  character  of  its  people,  their  free 
institutions,  and  their  remoteness  from  the  chief  scene  of  European 
contentions  combined  to  give  to  it.  The  Monroe  administration  there- 
fore did  not  hesitate  to  accept  and  apply  the  logic  of  the  Farewell 
Address  by  declaring  in  effect  that  American  non-intervention  in  Euro- 
pean affairs  necessarily  implied  and  meant  European  non-intervention 
in  American  affairs.  Conceiving  unquestionably  that  complete  Euro- 
pean non-interference  in  American  concerns  would  be  cheaply  purchased 
by  complete  American  non-interference  in  European  concerns.  President 
Monroe,  in  the  celebrated  Message  of  December  2,  1823,  used  the  fol- 
lowing language  : 


“ Id  the  wars  of  the  European  powers  in  matters  relating  to  themselves  we  have 
never  taken  any  part,  nor  does  it  comport  with  our  policy  to  do  so.  It  is  only 
when  our  rights  are  invaded  or  seriously  menaced  that,  we  resent  injuries  or 
make  preparations  for  our  defence.  With  the  movements  in  this  hemisphere, 
we  are,  of  necessity,  more  immediately  connected,  and  by  causes  which  must  be 
obvious  to  all  enlightened  and  impartial  observers.  The  political  system  of  the 
allied  powers  is  essentially  different  in  this  respect  from  that  of  America.  This 
difference  proceeds  from  that  which  exists  in  their  respective  governments.  And 
to  the  defence  of  our  own,  which  has  been  achieved  by  the  loss  of  so  much  blood 
aud  treasure  and  matured  by  the  wisdom  of  their  most  enlightened  citizens,  and 
under  which  we  have  enjoyed  unexampled  felicity,  this  whole  nation  is  devoted. 
We  owe  it,  therefore,  to  candor  aud  to  the  amicable  relations  existing  between  the 
United  States  aud  those  powers  to  declare  that  we  should  consider  any  attempt  on 


278 


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their  part  to  extend  their  system  to  any  portion  of  this  hemisphere  as  dangerous 
to  our  peace  and  safety. 

“ With  the  existing  colonies  or  dependencies  of  any  European  power  we  have  not 
interfered  and  shall  not  interfere.  Hut  w til  the  governments  who  have  declared 
their  independence  and  maintained  it,  and  whose  independence  we  have,  on  great 
consideration  and  on  just  principles,  acknowledged,  we  could  not  view  any  inter- 
position for  the  purpose  of  oppressing  them,  or  controlling  in  any  other  manner 
their  destiny,  by  any  European  power,  in  any  other  light  than  the  manifestation 
of  an  unfriendly  disposition  towards  the  United  States.  . . . Our  policy  in  regard 
to  Europe,  which  was  adopted  at  an  early  stage  of  the  wars  which  have  so  long 
agitated  that  quarter  of  the  globe,  nevertheless  remains  the  same,  which  is,  not  to 
interfere  in  the  internal  concerns  of  any  of  its  powers  ; to  consider  the  govern- 
ment tie  facto  as  the  legitimate  government  for  11s  ; to  cultivate  friendly  relations 
with  it,  and  to  preserve  those  relations  by  a frank,  firm,  and  manly  policy,  meet- 
ing, in  all  instances,  the  just  claims  of  every  power,  submitting  to  injuries  from 
none.  But  in  regard  to  these  continents,  circumstances  are  eminently  and  con- 
spicuously different.  It  is  impossible  that  the  allied  powers  should  extend  their 
political  system  to  any  portion  of  either  continent  without  endangering  our  peace 
and  happiness  ; nor  can  any  one  believe  that  our  southern  brethren,  if  left  to 
themselves,  would  adopt  it  of  their  own  accord.  It  is  equally  impossible,  therefore, 
that  we  should  behold  such  interposition,  in  any  form,  with  indifference.” 

The  Monroe  administration,  however,  did  not  content  itself  with 
formulating  a correct  rule  for  the  regulation  of  the  relations  between 
Europe  and  America.  It  aimed  at  also  securing  the  practical  benefits 
to  result  from  the  application  of  the  rule.  Hence  the  message  just 
quoted  declared  that  the  American  continents  were  fully  occupied  and 
were  not  the  subjects  for  future  colonization  by  European  powers.  To 
this  spirit  and  this  purpose,  also,  are  to  be  attributed  the  passages  of 
the  same  message  which  treat  any  infringement  of  the  rule  against  in- 
terference in  American  affairs  on  the  part  of  the  powers  of  Europe  as 
an  act  of  unfriendliness  to  the  United  States.  It  was  realized  that  it 
was  futile  to  lay  down  such  a rule  unless  its  observance  could  be  en- 
forced. It  was  manifest  that  the  United  States  was  the  only  power  in 
this  hemisphere  capable  of  enforcing  it.  It  was  therefore  courageously 
declared  not  merely  that  Europe  ought  not  to  interfere  in  American 
affairs,  but  that  any  European  power  doing  so  would  be  regarded  as 
antagonizing  the  interests  and  inviting  the  opposition  of  the  United 
States. 

That  America  is  in  no  part  open  to  colonization,  though  the  proposi- 
tion was  not  universally  admitted  at  the  time  of  its  first  enunciation, 
has  long  been  universally  conceded.  We  are  now  concerned,  therefore, 
only  with  that  other  practical  application  of  the  Monroe  doctrine,  the 


APPENDIX 


279 


disregard  of  which  by  an  European  power  is  to  be  deemed  an  act  of 
unfriendliness  towards  the  United  States.  The  precise  scope  and  limi- 
tations of  this  rule  cannot  be  too  clearly  apprehended.  It  does  not 
establish  any  general  protectorate  by  the  United  States  over  other 
American  states.  It  does  not  relieve  any  American  state  from  its 
obligations  as  fixed  by  international  law,  nor  prevent  any  European 
power  directly  interested  from  enforcing  such  obligations  or  from  in- 
flcting  merited  punishment  for  the  breach  of  them.  It  does  not  con- 
template any  interference  in  the  internal  affairs  of  any  American  state 
or  in  the  relations  between  it  and  other  American  states.  It  does  not 
justify  any  attempt  on  our  part  to  change  the  established  form  of  gov- 
ernment of  any  American  state  or  to  prevent  the  people  of  such  state 
from  altering  that  form  according  to  their  own  will  and  pleasure.  The 
rule  in  question  has  but  a single  purpose  and  object.  It  is  that  no 
European  power  or  combination  of  European  powers  shall  forcibly  de- 
prive an  American  state  of  the  right  and  power  of  self-government  and 
of  shaping  for  itself  its  own  political  fortunes  and  destinies. 

That  the  rule  thus  defined  has  been  the  accepted  public  law  of  this 
country  ever  since  its  promulgation  cannot  fairly  be  denied.  Its  pro- 
nouncement by  the  Monroe  administration  at  that  particular  time  was 
unquestionably  due  to  the  inspiration  of  Great  Britain,  who  at  once 
gave  to  it  an  open  and  unqualified  adhesion  which  has  never  been 
withdrawn.  But  the  rule  was  decided  upon  and  formulated  by  the 
Monroe  administration  as  a distinctively  American  doctrine  of  great 
import  to  the  safety  and  welfare  of  the  United  States  after  the  most 
careful  consideration  by  a Cabinet  which  numbered  among  its  members 
John  Quincy  Adams,  Calhoun,  Crawford,  and  Wirt,  and  which  before 
acting  took  both  Jefferson  and  Madison  into  its  counsels.  Its  promul- 
gation was  received  with  acclaim  by  the  entire  people  of  the  country 
irrespective  of  party.  Three  years  after,  Webster  declared  that  the 
doctrine  involved  the  honor  of  the  country.  “I  look  upon  it,”  he  said, 
“as  part  of  its  treasures  of  reputation,  and  for  one  I intend  to  guard 
it,”  and  he  added, 

“I  look  on  the  message  of  December,  1823,  as  forming  a bright  page  in  our  his- 
tory. I will  help  neither  to  erase  it  nor  to  tear  it  out ; nor  shall  it  be  by  any  act 
of  mine  blurred  or  blotted.  It  did  honor  to  the  sagacity  of  the  government,  and  I 
will  not  diminish  that  honor.” 

Though  the  rule  thus  highly  eulogized  by  Webster  has  never  been 


280 


VENEZUELA 


formally  affirmed  by  Congress,  the  House  in  1864  declared  against  the 
Mexican  monarchy  sought  to  be  set  up  by  the  French  as  not  in  accord 
with  the  policy  of  the  United  States,  and  in  1889  the  Senate  expressed 
its  disapproval  of  the  connection  of  any  European  power  with  a canal 
across  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  or  Central  America.  It  is  manifest  that, 
if  a rule  has  been  openly  and  uniformly  declared  and  acted  upon  by 
the  executive  branch  of  the  Government  for  more  than  seventy  years 
without  express  repudiation  by  Congress,  it  must  be  conclusively  pre- 
sumed to  have  its  sanction.  Yet  it  is  certainly  no  more  than  the  exact 
truth  to  say  that  every  administration  since  President  Monroe’s  has 
had  occasion,  and  sometimes  more  occasions  than  one,  to  examine  and 
consider  the  Monroe  doctrine  and  has  in  each  instance  given  it  em- 
phatic endorsement.  Presidents  have  dwelt  upon  it  in  messages  to 
Congress,  and  Secretaries  of  State  have  time  after  time  made  it  the 
theme  of  diplomatic  representation.  Nor,  if  the  practical  results  of 
the  rule  be  sought  for,  is  the  record  either  meager  or  obscure.  Its 
first  and  immediate  effect  was  indeed  most  momentous  and  far  reach- 
ing. It  was  the  controlling  factor  in  the  emancipation  of  South 
America,  and  to  it  the  independent  states  which  now  divide  that  region 
between  them  are  largely  indebted  for  their  very  existence.  Since 
then  the  most  striking  single  achievement  to  be  credited  to  the  rule 
is  the  evacuation  of  Mexico  by  the  French  upon  the  termination  of 
the  civil  war.  But  we  are  also  indebted  to  it  for  the  provisions  of  the 
Clayton-Bulwer  treaty,  which  both  neutralized  any  interoceanic  canal 
across  Central  America  and  expressly  excluded  Great  Britain  from 
occupying  or  exercising  any  dominion  over  any  part  of  Central  America. 
It  has  been  used  in  the  case  of  Cuba  as  if  justifying  the  position  that, 
while  the  sovereignty  of  Spain  will  be  respected,  the  island  will  not 
be  permitted  to  become  the  possession  of  any  other  European  power. 
It  has  been  influential  in  bringing  about  the  definite  relinquishment  of 
any  supposed  protectorate  by  Great  Britain  over  the  Mosquito  Coast. 

President  Polk,  in  the  case  of  Yucatan  and  the  proposed  voluntary 
transfer  of  that  country  to  Great  Britain  or  Spain,  relied  upon  the  Monroe 
doctrine,  though  perhaps  erroneously,  when  he  declared  in  a special 
message  to  Congress  on  the  subject  that  the  United  States  could  not 
consent  to  any  such  transfer.  Yet,  in  somewhat  the  same  spirit, 
Secretary  Fish  affirmed  in  1870  that  President  Grant  had  but  fol- 
lowed “ the  teachings  of  all  our  history  ” in  declaring  in  his  annual 
message  of  that  year  that  existing  dependencies  were  no  longer  regarded 


APPENDIX 


281 


as  subject  to  transfer  from  one  European  power  to  another,  and  that 
when  the  present  relation  of  colonies  ceases  they  are  to  become  inde- 
pendent powers.  Another  development  of  the  rule,  though  apparently 
not  necessarily  required  by  either  its  letter  or  its  spirit,  is  found  in  the 
objection  to  arbitration  of  South  American  controversies  by  an  Euro- 
pean power.  American  questions,  it  is  said,  are  for  American  decision, 
and  on  that  ground  the  United  States  went  so  far  as  to  refuse  to  medi- 
ate in  the  war  between  Chili  and  Peru  jointly  with  Great  Britain  and 
France.  Finally,  on  the  ground,  among  others,  that  the  authority  of 
the  Monroe  doctrine  and  the  prestige  of  the  United  States  as  its  ex- 
ponent and  sponsor  would  be  seriously  impaired,  Secretary  Bayard 
strenuously  resisted  the  enforcement  of  the  Pelletier  claim  against 
Hayti. 

“The  United  States,”  he  said,  “has  proclaimed  herself  the  protector  of  this 
western  world,  in  which  she  is  by  far  the  stronger  power,  from  the  intrusion 
of  European  sovereignties.  She  can  point  with  proud  satisfaction  to  the  fact,  that 
over  and  over  again  has  she  declared  effectively  that  serious  indeed  would  be  the 
consequences  if  an  European  hostile  foot  should,  without  just  cause,  tread  those 
states  in  the  New  World  which  have  emancipated  themselves  from  European  con- 
trol. She  has  announced  that  she  would  cherish  as  it  becomes  her  the  territorial 
rights  of  the  ffeeblest  of  those  states,  regarding  them  not  merely  as  in  the  eye 
of  the  law  equal  to  even  the  greatest  of  nationalities,  but  in  view  of  her  distinc- 
tive policy  as  entitled  to  be  regarded  by  her  as  the  objects  of  a peculiarly  gra- 
cious care.  I feel  bound  to  say  that  if  we  should  sanction  by  reprisals  in  Hayti 
the  ruthless  invasion  of  her  territory  and  insult  to  her  sovereignty  which  the 
facts  now  before  us  disclose,  if  we  approve  by  solemn  Executive  action  and  Con- 
gressional assent  that  invasion,  it  will  be  difficult  for  us  hereafter  to  assert  that 
in  the  New  World,  of  whose  rights  we  are  the  peculiar  guardians,  these  rights 
have  never  been  invaded  by  ourselves.  ” 

The  foregoing  enumeration  not  only  shows  the  many  instances 
wherein  the  rule  in  question  has  been  affirmed  and  applied,  but  also 
demonstrates  that  the  Venezuelan  boundary  controversy  is  in  any  view 
far  within  the  scope  and  spirit  of  the  rule  as  uniformly  accepted  and 
acted  upon.  A doctrine  of  American  public  law  thus  long  and  firmly 
established  and  supported  could  not  easily  be  ignored  in  a proper  case 
for  its  application,  even  were  the  considerations  upon  which  it  is 
founded  obscure  or  questionable.  No  such  objection  can  be  made, 
however,  to  the  Monroe  doctrine  understood  and  defined  in  the  man- 
ner already  stated.  It  rests,  on  the  contrary,  upon  facts  and  principles 
that  are  both  intelligible  and  incontrovertible.  That  distance  and  three 


282 


VENEZUELA 


thousand  miles  of  intervening  ocean  make  any  permanent  political  union 
between  an  European  and  an  American  state  unnatural  and  inexpedient 
will  hardly  be  denied.  But  physical  and  geographical  considerations  are 
the  least  of  the  objections  to  such  a union.  Europe,  as  Washington 
observed,  has  a set  of  primary  interests  which  are  peculiar  to  herself. 
America  is  not  interested  in  them  and  ought  not  to  be  vexed  or  compli- 
cated with  them.  Each  great  European  power,  for  instance,  to-day 
maintains  enormous  armies  and  fleets  in  self-defence  and  for  protection 
against  any  other  European  power  or  powers.  What  have  the  states 
of  America  to  do  with  that  condition  of  things,  or  why  should  they  be 
impoverished  by  wars  or  preparations  for  wars  with  whose  causes  or 
results  they  can  have  no  direct  concern?  If  all  Europe  were  to  sud- 
denly fly  to  arms  over  the  fate  of  Turkey,  would  it  not  be  preposterous 
that  any  American  state  should  find  itself  inextricably  involved  in  the 
miseries  and  burdens  of  the  contest?  If  it  were,  it  would  prove  to  be 
a partnership  in  the  cost  and  losses  of  the  struggle  but  not  in  any  ensu- 
ing benefits. 

What  is  true  of  the  material  is  no  less  true  of  what  may  be  termed 
the  moral  interests  involved.  Those  pertaining  to  Europe  are  peculiar 
to  her  and  are  entirely  diverse  from  those  pertaining  and  peculiar  to 
America.  Europe  as  a whole  is  monarchical,  and,  with  the  single  im- 
portant exception  of  the  Republic  of  France,  is  committed  to  the 
monarchical  principle.  America,  on  the  other  hand,  is  devoted  to  the 
exactly  opposite  principle — to  the  idea  that  every  people  has  an  inalien- 
able right  of  self-government — and,  in  the  United  States  of  America, 
has  furnished  to  the  world  the  most  conspicuous  and  conclusive  exam- 
ple and  proof  of  the  excellence  of  free  institutions,  whether  from  the 
standpoint  of  national  greatness  or  of  individual  happiness.  It  can- 
not be  necessary,  however,  to  enlarge  upon  this  phase  of  the  subject — 
whether  moral  or  material  interests  be  considered,  it  cannot  but  be 
universally  conceded  that  those  of  Europe  are  irreconcilably  diverse 
from  those  of  America,  and  that  any  European  control  of  the  latter  is 
necessarily  both  incongruous  and  injurious.  If,  however,  for  the  rea- 
sons stated  the  forcible  intrusion  of  European  powers  into  American 
politics  is  to  be  deprecated  — if,  as  it  is  to  be  deprecated,  it  should 
be  resisted  and  prevented  — such  resistance  and  prevention  must 
come  from  the  United  States.  They  would  come  from  it,  of  course, 
were  it  made  the  point  of  attack.  But,  if  they  come  at  all,  they 
must  also  come  from  it  when  any  other  American  state  is  attacked, 


APPENDIX 


283 


since  only  the  United  States  has  the  strength  adequate  to  the  exi- 
gency. 

Is  it  true,  then,  that  the  safety  and  welfare  of  the  United  States  are 
so  concerned  with  the  maintenance  of  the  independence  of  every  Ameri- 
can state  as  against  any  European  power  as  to  justify  and  require  the 
interposition  of  the  United  States  whenever  that  independence  is  en- 
dangered ? The  question  can  be  candidly  answered  in  but  one  way. 
The  states  of  America,  South  as  well  as  North,  by  geographical  prox- 
imity, by  natural  sympathy,  by  similarity  of  governmental  constitutions, 
are  friends  and  allies,  commercially  and  politically,  of  the  United  States. 
To  allow  the  subjugation  of  any  of  them  by  an  European  power  is,  of 
course,  to  completely  reverse  that  situation  and  signifies  the  loss  of  all 
the  advantages  incident  to  their  natural  relations  to  us.  But  that  is 
not  all.  The  people  of  the  United  States  have  a vital  interest  in  the 
cause  of  popular  self-government.  They  have  secured  the  right  for 
themselves  and  their  posterity  at  the  cost  of  infinite  blood  and  treasure. 
They  have  realized  and  exemplified  its  beneficent  operation  by  a career 
unexampled  in  point  of  national  greatness  or  individual  felicity.  They 
believe  it  to  be  for  the  healing  of  all  nations,  and  that  civilization  must 
either  advance  or  retrograde  accordingly  as  its  supremacy  is  extended 
or  curtailed.  Imbued  with  these  sentiments,  the  people  of  the  United 
States  might  not  impossibly  be  wrought  up  to  an  active  propaganda  in 
favor  of  a cause  so  highly  valued  both  for  themselves  and  for  mankind. 
But  the  age  of  the  Crusades  has  passed,  and  they  are  content  with  such 
assertion  and  defence  of  the  right  of  popular  self-government  as  their 
own  security  and  welfare  demand.  It  is  in  that  view  more  than  in 
any  other  that  they  believe  it  not  to  be  tolerated  that  the  political 
coutrol  of  an  American  state  shall  be  forcibly  assumed  by  an  European 
power. 

The  mischiefs  apprehended  from  such  a source  are  none  the  less  real 
because  not  immediately  imminent  in  any  specific  case,  and  are  none 
the  less  to  be  guarded  against  because  the  combination  of  circum- 
stances that  will  bring  them  upon  us  cannot  be  predicted.  The  civil- 
ized states  of  Christendom  deal  with  each  other  on  substantially  the 
same  principles  that  regulate  the  conduct  of  individuals.  The  greater 
its  enlightenment,  the  more  surely  every  state  perceives  that  its  per- 
manent interests  require  it  to  be  governed  by  the  immutable  principles 
of  right  and  justice.  Each,  nevertheless,  is  only  too  liable  to  succumb 
to  the  temptations  offered  by  seeming  special  opportunities  for  its  own 


284 


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aggrandizement,  and  each  would  rashly  imperil  its  own  safety  were  it 
not  to  remember  that  for  the  regard  and  respect  of  other  states  it  must 
be  largely  dependent  upon  its  own  strength  and  power.  To-day  the 
United  States  is  practically  sovereign  on  this  continent,  and  its  fiat  is 
law  upon  the  subjects  to  which  it  confines  its  interposition.  Why  ? It 
is  not  because  of  the  pure  friendship  or  good-will  felt  for  it.  It  is  not 
simply  by  reason  of  its  high  character  as  a civilized  state,  nor  because 
wisdom  and  justice  and  equity  are  the  invariable  characteristics  of  the 
dealings  of  the  United  States.  It  is  because,  in  addition  to  all  other 
grounds,  its  infinite  resources  combined  with  its  isolated  position  ren- 
der it  master  of  the  situation  and  practically  invulnerable  as  against  any 
or  all  other  powers. 

All  the  advantages  of  this  superiority  are  at  once  imperilled  if  the 
principle  be  admitted  that  European  powers  may  convert  American 
states  into  colonies  or  provinces  of  their  own.  The  principle  would  be 
eagerly  availed  of,  and  every  power  doing  so  would  immediately  acquire 
a base  of  military  operations  against  us.  What  one  power  was  per- 
mitted to  do  could  not  be  denied  to  another,  and  it  is  not  inconceivable 
that  the  struggle  now  going  on  for  the  acquisition  of  Africa  might  be 
transferred  to  South  America.  If  it  were,  the  weaker  countries  would 
unquestionably  be  soon  absorbed,  while  the  ultimate  result  might  be 
the  partition  of  all  South  America  between  the  various  European  pow- 
ers. The  disastrous  consequences  to  the  United  States  of  such  a con- 
dition of  things  arc  obvious.  The  loss  of  prestige,  of  authority,  and  of 
weight  in  the  councils  of  the  family  of  nations  would  be  among  the 
least  of  them.  Our  only  real  rivals  in  peace  as  well  as  enemies  in  war 
would  be  found  located  at  our  very  doors.  Thus  far  in  our  history  we 
have  been  spared  the  burdens  and  evils  of  immense  standing  armies 
and  all  the  other  accessories  of  huge  warlike  establishments,  and  the 
exemption  has  largely  contributed  to  our  national  greatness  and  wealth 
as  well  as  to  the  happiness  of  every  citizen.  But,  with  the  powers  of 
Europe  permanently  encamped  on  American  soil,  the  ideal  conditions 
we  have  thus  far  enjoyed  cannot  be  expected  to  continue.  We  too 
must  be  armed  to  the  teeth,  we  too  must  convert  the  flower  of  our  male 
population  into  soldiers  and  sailors,  and  by  withdrawing  them  from  the 
various  pursuits  of  peaceful  industry  we  too  must  practically  annihilate 
a large  share  of  the  productive  energy  of  the  nation. 

IIow  a greater  calamity  than  this  could  overtake  us  it  is  difficult  to 
see.  Nor  are  our  just  apprehensions  to  be  allayed  by  suggestions  of 


APPENDIX 


285 


the  friendliness  of  European  powers — of  their  good-will  towards  us — 
of  their  disposition,  should  they  be  our  neighbors,  to  dwell  with  us  in 
peace  and  harmony.  The  people  of  the  United  States  have  learned  in 
the  school  of  experience  to  what  extent  the  relations  of  states  to  each 
other  depend  not  upon  sentiment  nor  principle,  but  upon  selfish  interest. 
They  will  not  soon  forget  that,  in  their  hour  of  distress,  all  their  anxie- 
ties and  burdens  were  aggravated  bv  the  possibility  of  demonstrations 
against  their  national  life  on  the  part  of  powers  with  whom  they  had 
long  maintained  the  most  harmonious  relations.  They  have  yet  in  mind 
that  France  seized  upon  the  apparent  opportunity  of  our  civil  war  to 
set  up  a monarchy  in  the  adjoining  state  of  Mexico.  They  realize  that 
had  France  and  Great  Britain  held  important  South  American  posses- 
sions to  work  from  and  to  benefit,  the  temptation  to  destroy  the  pre- 
dominance of  the  Great  Republic  in  this  hemisphere  by  furthering  its 
dismemberment  might  have  been  irresistible.  From  that  grave  peril 
they  have  been  saved  in  the  past  and  may  be  saved  again  in  the  future 
through  the  operation  of  the  sure  but  silent  force  of  the  doctrine  pro- 
claimed by  President  Monroe.  To  abandon  it,  on  the  other  hand,  dis- 
regarding both  the  logic  of  the  situation  and  the  facts  of  our  past  expe- 
rience, would  be  to  renounce  a policy  which  has  proved  both  an  easy 
defence  against  foreign  aggression  and  a prolific  source  of  internal 
progress  and  prosperity. 

There  is,  then,  a doctrine  of  American  public  law,  well  founded  in 
principle  and  abundantly  sanctioned  by  precedent,  which  entitles  and 
requires  the  United  States  to  treat  as  an  injury  to  itself  the  forcible  as- 
sumption by  an  European  power  of  political  control  over  an  American 
state.  The  application  of  the  doctrine  to  the  boundary  dispute  between 
Great  Britain  and  Venezuela  remains  to  be  made,  and  presents  no  real 
difficulty.  Though  the  dispute  relates  to  a boundary  line,  yet,  as  it  is 
between  states,  it  necessarily  imports  political  control  to  be  lost  by  one 
party  and  gained  by  the  other.  The  political  control  at  stake,  too,  is  of 
no  mean  importance,  but  concerns  a domain  of  great  extent — the  Brit- 
ish claim,  it  will  be  remembered,  apparently  expanded  in  two  years 
some  33,000  square  miles — and,  if  it  also  directly  involves  the  command 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco,  is  of  immense  consequence  in  connection 
with  the  whole  river  navigation  of  the  interior  of  South  America.  It 
has  been  intimated,  indeed,  that  in  respect  of  these  South  American 
possessions  Great  Britain  is  herself  an  American  state  like  any  other, 
so  that  a controversy  between  her  and  Venezuela  is  to  be  settled  between 


286 


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themselves  as  if  it  were  between  Venezuela  and  Brazil  or  between 
Venezuela  and  Colombia,  and  does  not  call  for  or  justify  United  States 
intervention.  If  this  view  be  tenable  at  all,  the  logical  sequence  is 
plain. 

Great  Britain  as  a South  American  state  is  to  be  entirely  differenti- 
ated from  Great  Britain  generally,  and  if  the  boundary  question  cannot 
be  settled  otherwise  than  by  force,  British  Guiana,  with  her  own  inde- 
pendent resources  and  not  those  of  the  British  Empire,  should  be  left  to 
settle  the  matter  with  Venezuela — an  arrangement  which  very  possibly 
Venezuela  might  not  object  to.  But  the  proposition  that  an  European 
power  with  an  American  dependency  is  for  the  purposes  of  the  Monroe 
doctrine  to  be  classed  not  as  an  European  but  as  an  American  state 
will  not  admit  of  serious  discussion.  If  it  were  to  be  adopted,  the 
Monroe  doctrine  would  be  too  valueless  to  be  worth  asserting.  Not 
only  would  every  European  power  now  having  a South  American 
colony  be  enabled  to  extend  its  possessions  on  this  continent  indefi- 
nitely, but  any  other  European  power  might  also  do  the  same  by  first 
taking  pains  to  procure  a fraction  of  South  American  soil  by  voluntary 
cession. 

The  declaration  of  the  Monroe  message — that  existing  colonies  or 
dependencies  of  an  European  power  would  not  be  interfered  with  by  the 
United  States — means  colonies  or  dependencies  then  existing,  with  their 
limits  as  then  existing.  So  it  has  been  invariably  construed,  and  so  it 
must  continue  to  be  construed  unless  it  is  to  be  deprived  of  all  vital 
force.  Great  Britain  cannot  be  deemed  a South  American  state  within 
the  purview  of  the  Monroe  doctrine,  nor,  if  she  is  appropriating  Vene- 
zuelan territory,  is  it  material  that  she  does  so  by  advancing  the  fron- 
tier of  an  old  colony  instead  of  by  the  planting  of  a new  colony.  The 
difference  is  matter  of  form  and  not  of  substance,  and  the  doctrine  if 
pertinent  in  the  one  case  must  be  in  the  other  also.  It  is  not  admitted, 
however,  and  therefore  cannot  be  assumed,  that  Great  Britain  is  in  fact 
usurping  dominion  over  Venezuelan  territory.  While  Venezuela  charges 
such  usurpation,  Great  Britain  denies  it,  and  the  United  States,  until 
the  merits  are  authoritatively  ascertained,  can  take  sides  with  neither. 
But  while  this  is  so — while  the  United  States  may  not,  under  existing 
circumstances  at  least,  take  upon  itself  to  say  which  of  the  two  parties 
is  right  and  which  wrong — it  is  certainly  within  its  right  to  demand 
that  the  truth  shall  be  ascertained.  Being  entitled  to  resent  and  resist 
any  sequestration  of  Venezuelan  soil  by  Great  Britain,  it  is  necessarily 


APPENDIX 


287 


entitled  to  know  whether  such  sequestration  has  occurred  or  is  now- 
going  on.  Otherwise,  if  the  United  States  is  without  the  right  to  know 
and  have  it  determined  whether  there  is  or  is  not  British  aggression 
upon  Venezuelan  territory,  its  right  to  protest  against  or  repel  such 
aggression  may  be  dismissed  from  consideration. 

The  right  to  act  upon  a fact  the  existence  of  which  there  is  no  right 
to  have  ascertained  is  simply  illusory.  It  being  clear,  therefore,  that 
the  United  States  may  legitimately  insist  upon  the  merits  of  the  boun- 
dary question  being  determined,  it  is  equally  clear  that  there  is  but  one 
feasible  mode  of  determining  them — viz.,  peaceful  arbitration.  The  im- 
practicability of  any  conventional  adjustment  has  been  often  and  thor- 
oughly demonstrated.  Even  more  impossible  of  consideration  is  an 
appeal  to  arms — a mode  of  settling  national  pretensions  unhappily  not 
yet  wholly  obsolete.  If,  however,  it  were  not  condemnable  as  a relic 
of  barbarism  and  a crime  in  itself,  so  one-sided  a contest  could  not  be 
invited  nor  even  accepted  by  Great  Britain  without  distinct  disparage- 
ment to  her  character  as  a civilized  state.  Great  Britain,  however,  as- 
sumes no  such  attitude.  On  the  contrary,  she  both  admits  that  there 
is  a controversy  and  that  arbitration  should  be  resorted  to  for  its  ad- 
justment. But,  while  up  to  that  point  her  attitude  leaves  nothing  to  be 
desired,  its  practical  effect  is  completely  nullified  by  her  insistence  that 
the  submission  shall  cover  but  a part  of  the  controversy — that,  as  a 
condition  of  arbitrating  her  right  to  a part  of  the  disputed  territory,  the 
remainder  shall  be  turned  over  to  her.  If  it  were  possible  to  point  to 
a boundary  which  both  parties  had  ever  agreed  or  assumed  to  be  such 
either  expressly  or  tacitly,  the  demand  that  territory  conceded  by  such 
line  to  British  Guiana  should  be  held  not  to  be  in  dispute  might  rest 
upon  a reasonable  basis.  But  there  is  no  such  line.  The  territory  which 
Great  Britain  insists  shall  be  ceded  to  her  as  a condition  of  arbitrating 
her  claim  to  other  territory  has  never  been  admitted  to  belong  to  her. 
It  has  always  and  consistently  been  claimed  by  Venezuela. 

Upon  what  principle — except  her  feebleness  as  a nation — is  she  to 
be  denied  the  right  of  having  the  claim  heard  and  passed  upon  by  an 
impartial  tribunal?  No  reason  nor  shadow  of  reason  appears  in  all 
the  voluminous  literature  of  the  subject.  “It  is  to  be  so  because  I will 
it  to  be  so”  seems  to  be  the  only  justification  Great  Britain  offers.  It 
is,  indeed,  intimated  that  the  British  claim  to  this  particular  territory 
rests  upon  an  occupation,  which,  whether  acquiesced  in  or  not,  has  ri- 
pened into  a perfect  title  by  long  continuance.  But  what  prescription 


288 


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affecting  territorial  rights  can  be  said  to  exist  as  between  sovereign 
states  ? Or,  if  there  is  any,  what  is  the  legitimate  consequence  ? It  is 
not  that  all  arbitration  should  be  denied,  but  only  that  the  submission 
should  embrace  an  additional  topic — namely,  the  validity  of  the  asserted 
prescriptive  title  either  in  point  of  law  or  in  point  of  fact.  No  differ- 
ent result  follows  from  the  contention  that  as  matter  of  principle  Great 
Britain  cannot  be  asked  to  submit,  and  ought  not  to  submit,  to  arbi- 
tration her  political  and  sovereign  rights  over  territory.  This  conten- 
tion, if  applied  to  the  whole  or  to  a vital  part  of  the  possessions  of  a 
sovereign  state,  need  not  be  controverted.  To  hold  otherwise  might  be 
equivalent  to  holding  that  a sovereign  state  was  bound  to  arbitrate  its 
very  existence. 

But  Great  Britain  has  herself  shown  in  various  instances  that  the 
principle  has  no  pertinency  when  either  the  interests  or  the  territorial 
area  involved  are  not  of  controlling  magnitude,  and  her  loss  of  them  as 
the  result  of  an  arbitration  cannot  appreciably  affect  her  honor  or  her 
power.  Thus,  she  has  arbitrated  the  extent  of  her  colonial  possessions 
twice  with  the  United  States,  twice  with  Portugal,  and  once  with  Ger- 
many, and  perhaps  in  other  instances.  The  Northwest  Water  Bounda- 
ry arbitration  of  1872  between  her  and  this  country  is  an  example  in 
point,  and  well  illustrates  both  the  effect  to  be  given  to  long-continued 
use  and  enjoyment  and  the  fact  that  a truly  great  power  sacrifices 
neither  prestige  nor  dignity  by  reconsidering  the  most  emphatic  rejec- 
tion of  a proposition  when  satisfied  of  the  obvious  and  intrinsic  justice 
of  the  case.  By  the  award  of  the  Emperor  of  Germany,  the  arbitrator 
in  that  case,  the  United  States  acquired  San  Juan  and  a number  of 
smaller  islands  near  the  coast  of  Vancouver  as  a consequence  of  the 
decision  that  the  term  “ the  channel  which  separates  the  continent 
from  Vancouver’s  Island,”  as  used  in  the  treaty  of  Washington  of  1 8-4  6, 
meant  the  Haro  channel  and  not  the  Rosario  channel.  Yet  a leading 
contention  of  Great  Britain  before  the  arbitrator  was  that  equity  re- 
quired a judgment  in  her  favor,  because  a decision  in  favor  of  the 
United  States  would  deprive  British  subjects  of  rights  of  navigation  of 
which  they  had  had  the  habitual  enjoyment  from  the  time  when  the 
Rosario  Strait  was  first  explored  and  surveyed  in  1798.  So,  though  by 
virtue  of  the  award  the  United  States  acquired  San  Juan  and  the  other 
islands  of  the  group  to  which  it  belongs,  the  British  Foreign  Secre- 
tary had  in  1859  instructed  the  British  Minister  at  Washington  as 
follows : 


APPENDIX 


289 


“Her  Majesty's  Government  must,  therefore,  under  any  circumstances,  main- 
tain the  right  of  the  British  Crown  to  the  Island  of  San  Juan.  The  interests  at 
stake  in  connection  with  the  retention  of  that  Island  are  too  important  to  admit  of 
compromise,  and  Your  Lordship  will  consequently  bear  in  mind  that,  whatever 
arrangement  as  to  the  boundary  line  is  finally  arrived  at,  no  settlement  of  the 
question  will  be  accepted  by  Her  Majesty’s  Government  which  does  not  provide 
for  the  Island  of  San  Juan  being  reserved  to  the  British  Crown.” 

Thus,  as  already  intimated,  the  British  demand  that  her  right  to  a 
portion  of  the  disputed  territory  shall  be  acknowledged  before  she  will 
consent  to  an  arbitration  as  to  the  rest  seems  to  stand  upon  nothing 
but  her  own  ipse  dixit.  She  says  to  Venezuela,  in  substance:  “You 
can  get  none  of  the  debatable  land  by  force,  because  you  are  not  strong 
enough ; you  can  get  none  by  treaty,  because  I will  not  agree;  and  you 
can  take  your  chance  of  getting  a portion  by  arbitration,  only  if  you 
first  agree  to  abandon  to  me  such  other  portion  as  I may  designate.” 
It  is  not  perceived  how  such  an  attitude  can  be  defended,  nor  how  it  is 
reconcilable  with  that  love  of  justice  and  fair  play  so  eminently  char- 
acteristic of  the  English  race.  It  in  effect  deprives  Venezuela  of  her 
free  agency  and  puts  her  under  virtual  duress.  Territory  acquired  by 
reason  of  it  will  be  as  much  wrested  from  her  by  the  strong  hand  as  if 
occupied  by  British  troops  or  covered  by  British  fleets.  It  seems,  there- 
fore, quite  impossible  that  this  position  of  Great  Britain  should  be  as- 
sented to  by  the  United  States,  or  that,  if  such  position  be  adhered  to 
with  the  result  of  enlarging  the  bounds  of  British  Guiana,  it  should  not 
be  regarded  as  amounting,  in  substance,  to  an  invasion  and  conquest 
of  Venezuelan  territory. 

In  these  circumstances,  the  duty  of  the  President  appears  to  him  un- 
mistakable and  imperative.  Great  Britain’s  assertion  of  title  to  the  dis- 
puted territory  combined  with  her  refusal  to  have  that  title  investigated 
being  a substantial  appropriation  of  the  territory  to  her  own  use,  not  to 
protest  and  give  warning  that  the  transaction  will  be  regarded  as  injuri- 
ous to  the  interests  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  as  well  as  oppressive 
in  itself  would  be  to  ignore  an  established  policy  with  which  the  honor 
and  welfare  of  this  country  are  closely  identified.  While  the  measures 
necessary  or  proper  for  the  vindication  of  that  policy  are  to  be  deter- 
mined by  another  branch  of  the  Government,  it  is  clearly  for  the  Exec- 
utive to  leave  nothing  undone  which  may  tend  to  render  such  determi- 
nation unnecessary. 

You  are  instructed,  therefore,  to  present  the  foregoing  views  to  Lord 

19 


290 


VENEZUELA 


Salisbury  by  reading  to  him  this  communication  (leaving  with  him  a copy 
should  he  so  desire),  and  to  reinforce  them  by  such  pertinent  considera- 
tions as  will  doubtless  occur  to  you.  They  call  for  a definite  decision 
upon  the  point  whether  Great  Britain  will  consent  or  will  decline  to  sub- 
mit the  Venezuelan  boundary  question  in  its  entirety  to  impartial  arbi- 
tration. It  is  the  earnest  hope  of  the  President  that  the  conclusion  will 
be  on  the  side  of  arbitration,  and  that  Great  Britain  will  add  one  more 
to  the  conspicuous  precedents  she  has  already  furnished  in  favor  of 
that  wise  and  just  mode  of  adjusting  international  disputes.  If  he  is 
to  be  disappointed  in  that  hope,  however  — a result  not  to  be  anticipa- 
ted and  in  his  judgment  calculated  to  greatly  embarrass  the  future  re- 
lations between  this  country  and  Great  Britain  — it  is  his  wish  to  be 
made  acquainted  with  the  fact  at  such  early  date  as  will  enable  him  to 
lay  the  whole  subject  before  Congress  in  his  next  annual  message. 

I am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

Richard  Olney. 


Mr.  Adee  to  Mr.  Bayard. 

No.  806.]  Department  of  State, 

Washington , July  24,  1895. 

His  Excellency  Thomas  F.  Bayard, 

Etc .,  etc .,  etc.,  London. 

Sir, — In  Mr.  Olney’s  instruction  No.  804,  of  the  20th  instant,  in  rela- 
tion to  the  Anglo -Venezuelan  boundary  dispute,  you  will  note  a refer- 
ence to  the  sudden  increase  of  the  area  claimed  for  British  Guiana, 
amounting  to  33,000  square  miles,  between  1884  and  1886.  This  state- 
ment is  made  on  the  authority  of  the  British  publication  entitled  the 
Statesman's  Year-Book. 

I add  for  your  better  information  that  the  same  statement  is  found 
in  the  British  Colonial  Office  List,  a government  publication. 

In  the  issue  for  1885  the  following  passage  occurs,  on  page  24,  under 
the  head  of  British  Guiana : 

“It  is  impossible  to  specify  the  exact  area  of  the  Colony,  as  its  precise  boun- 
daries between  Venezuela  and  Brazil  respectively  are  undetermined,  but  it  has 
been  computed  to  be  76,000  square  miles.” 

In  the  issue  of  the  same  List  for  1886  the  same  statement  occurs,  on 
page  33,  with  the  change  of  area  to  “about  109,000  square  miles.” 


APPENDIX 


291 


The  official  maps  in  the  two  volumes  mentioned  are  identical,  so  that 
the  increase  of  33,000  square  miles  claimed  for  British  Guiana  is  not 
thereby  explained,  but  later  Colonial  Office  List  maps  show  a varying 
sweep  of  the  boundary  westward  into  what  previously  figured  as  Vene- 
zuelan territory,  while  no  change  is  noted  on  the  Brazilian  frontier. 

I am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

Alvey  A.  Adee, 

Acting  Secretary. 


Lord  Salisbury  to  Sir  Julian  Pauncefote. 

No.  189  ] Foreign  Office, 

November  26,  1895. 

Sir, — On  the  Tth  August  I transmitted  to  Lord  Gough  a copy  of  the 
despatch  from  Mr.  Olney  which  Mr.  Bayard  had  left  with  me  that  day, 
and  of  which  he  had  read  portions  to  me.  I informed  him  at  the  time 
that  it  could  not  be  answered  until  it  had  been  carefully  considered  by 
the  Law  Officers  of  the  Crown.  I have  therefore  deferred  replying  to 
it  till  after  the  recess. 

I will  not  now  deal  with  those  portions  of  it  which  are  concerned 
exclusively  with  the  controversy  that  has  for  some  time  past  existed 
between  the  Republic  of  Venezuela  and  Her  Majesty’s  Government  in 
regard  to  the  boundary  which  separates  their  dominions.  I take  a very 
different  view  from  Mr.  Olney  of  various  matters  upon  which  he  touches 
in  that  part  of  the  despatch ; but  I will  defer  for  the  present  all  obser- 
vations upon  it,  as  it  concerns  matters  which  are  not  in  themselves  of 
first-rate  importance,  and  do  not  directly  concern  the  relations  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States. 

The  latter  part,  however,  of  the  despatch,  turning  from  the  question 
of  the  frontiers  of  Venezuela,  proceeds  to  deal  with  principles  of  a far 
wider  character,  and  to  advance  doctrines  of  international  law  which 
are  of  considerable  interest  to  all  the  nations  whose  dominions  include 
any  portion  of  the  Western  Hemisphere. 

The  contentions  set  forth  by  Mr.  Olney  in  this  part  of  his  despatch 
are  represented  by  him  as  being  an  application  of  the  political  maxims 
which  are  well  known  in  American  discussion  under  the  name  of  the 
Monroe  doctrine.  As  far  as  I am  aware,  this  doctrine  has  never  been 
before  advanced  on  behalf  of  the  United  States  in  any  written  com- 
munication addressed  to  the  Government  of  another  nation  ; but  it  has 


292 


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been  generally  adopted  and  assumed  as  true  by  many  eminent  writers 
and  politicians  in  the  United  States.  It  is  said  to  have  largely  influ- 
enced the  Government  of  that  country  in  the  conduct  of  its  foreign  af- 
fairs : though  Mr.  Clayton,  who  was  Secretary  of  State  under  President 
Taylor,  expressly  stated  that  that  Administration  had  in  no  way  adopt- 
ed it.  But  during  the  period  that  has  elapsed  since  the  Message  of  Pres- 
ident Monroe  was  delivered  in  1823,  the  doctrine  has  undergone  a very 
notable  development,  and  the  aspect  which  it  now  presents  in  the 
hands  of  Mr.  Olney  differs  widely  from  its  character  when  it  first  issued 
from  the  pen  of  its  author.  The  two  propositions  which  in  effect  Pres- 
ident Monroe  laid  down  were,  first,  that  America  was  no  longer  to  be 
looked  upon  as  a field  for  European  colonization ; and,  secondly,  that 
Europe  must  not  attempt  to  extend  its  political  system  to  America,  or 
to  control  the  political  condition  of  any  of  the  American  communities 
who  had  recently  declared  their  independence. 

The  dangers  against  which  President  Monroe  thought  it  right  to 
guard  were  not  as  imaginary  as  they  would  seem  at  the  present  day. 
The  formation  of  the  Holy  Alliance;  the  Congresses  of  Laybach  and 
Verona;  the  invasion  of  Spain  by  France  for  the  purpose  of  forcing 
upon  the  Spanish  people  a form  of  government  which  seemed  likely  to 
disappear  unless  it  was  sustained  by  external  aid,  were  incidents 
fresh  in  the  mind  of  President  Monroe  when  he  penned  his  celebrated 
Message.  The  system  of  which  he  speaks,  and  of  which  he  so  reso- 
lutely deprecates  the  application  to  the  American  Continent,  was  the 
system  then  adopted  by  certain  powerful  States  upon  the  Continent  of 
Europe  of  combining  to  prevent  by  force  of  arms  the  adoption  in  other 
countries  of  political  institutions  which  they  disliked,  and  to  uphold 
by  external  pressure  those  which  they  approved.  Various  portions  of 
South  America  had  recently  declared  their  independence,  and  that 
independence  had  not  been  recognized  by  the  Governments  of  Spain 
and  Portugal,  to  which,  with  small  exception,  the  whole  of  Central 
and  South  America  were  nominally  subject.  It  was  not  an  imaginary 
danger  that  he  foresaw,  if  he  feared  that  the  same  spirit  which  had 
dictated  the  French  expedition  in  Spain  might  inspire  the  more 
powerful  Governments  of  Europe  with  the  idea  of  imposing,  by  the 
force  of  European  arms,  upon  the  South  American  communities  the 
form  of  government  and  the  political  connection  which  they  had 
thrown  off.  In  declaring  that  the  United  States  would  resist  any 
such  enterprise  if  it  was  contemplated,  President  Monroe  adopted  a 


APPENDIX 


293 


policy  which  received  the  entire  sympathy  of  the  English  Government 
of  that  date. 

The  dangers  which  were  apprehended  by  President  Monroe  have  no 
relation  to  the  state  of  things  in  which  we  live  at  the  present  day. 
There  is  no  danger  of  any  Holy  Alliance  imposing  its  system  upon  any 
portion  of  the  American  Continent,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  any 
European  State  treating  any  part  of  the  American  Continent  as  a fit 
object  for  European  colonization.  It  is  intelligible  that  Mr.  Olney 
should  invoke,  in  defence  of  the  views  on  which  he  is  now  insisting,  an 
authority  which  enjoys  so  high  a popularity  with  his  own  fellow-coun- 
trymen. But  the  circumstances  with  which  President  Monroe  was 
dealing,  and  those  to  which  the  present  American  Government  is 
addressing  itself,  have  very  few  features  in  common.  Great  Britain 
is  imposing  no  “system”  upon  Venezuela,  and  is  not  concerning 
herself  in  any  way  with  the  nature  of  the  political  institutions 
under  which  the  Venezuelans  may  prefer  to  live.  But  the  British 
Empire  and  the  Republic  of  Venezuela  are  neighbors,  and  they  have 
differed  for  some  time  past,  and  continue  to  differ,  as  to  the  line  by 
which  their  dominions  are  separated.  It  is  a controversy  with  which 
the  United  States  have  no  apparent  practical  concern.  It  is  difficult, 
indeed,  to  see  how  it  can  materially  affect  any  State  or  community 
outside  those  primarily  interested,  except  perhaps  other  parts  of  Her 
Majesty’s  dominions,  such  as  Trinidad.  The  disputed  frontier  of  Ven- 
ezuela has  nothing  to  do  with  any  of  the  questions  dealt  with  by  Presi- 
dent Monroe.  It  is  not  a question  of  the  colonization  by  a European 
Power  of  any  portion  of  America.  It  is  not  a question  of  the  imposi- 
tion upon  the  communities  of  South  America  of  any  system  of  govern- 
ment devised  in  Europe.  It  is  simply  the  determination  of  the  frontier 
of  a British  possession  which  belonged  to  the  Throne  of  England  long 
before  the  Republic  of  Venezuela  came  into  existence.  But  even  if  the 
interests  of  Venezuela  were  so  far  linked  to  those  of  the  United  States 
as  to  give  to  the  latter  a locus  standi  in  this  controversy,  their  Govern- 
ment apparently  have  not  formed,  and  certainly  do  not  express,  any 
opinion  upon  the  actual  merits  of  the  dispute.  The  Government 
of  the  United  States  do  not  say  that  Great  Britain,  or  that  Venezuela, 
is  in  the  right  in  the  matters  that  are  in  issue.  But  they  lay  down 
that  the  doctrine  of  President  Monroe,  when  he  opposed  the  imposition 
of  European  systems,  or  the  renewal  of  European  colonization,  confers 
upon  them  the  right  of  demanding  that  when  a European  Power  has  a 


294 


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frontier  difference  with  a South  American  community,  the  European 
Power  shall  consent  to  refer  that  controversy  to  arbitration ; and  Mr. 
Olney  states  that  unless  Her  Majesty’s  Government  accede  to  this  de- 
mand, it  will  “ greatly  embarrass  the  future  relations  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States.” 

Whatever  may  be  the  authority  of  the  doctrine  laid  down  by  Presi- 
dent Monroe,  there  is  nothing  in  his  language  to  show  that  he  ever 
thought  of  claiming  this  novel  prerogative  for  the  United  States.  It 
is  admitted  that  he  did  not  seek  to  assert  a Protectorate  over  Mexico, 
or  the  States  of  Central  and  South  America.  Such  a claim  would  have 
imposed  upon  the  United  States  the  duty  of  answering  for  the  conduct 
of  these  States,  and  consequently  the  responsibility  of  controlling  it. 
His  sagacious  foresight  would  have  led  him  energetically  to  deprecate 
the  addition  of  so  serious  a burden  to  those  which  the  Rulers  of  the 
United  States  have  to  bear.  It  follows  of  necessity  that  if  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  will  not  control  the  conduct  of  these 
communities,  neither  can  it  undertake  to  protect  them  from  the  conse- 
quences attaching  to  any  misconduct  of  which  they  may  be  guilty 
towards  other  nations.  If  they  violate  in  any  way  the  rights  of  another 
State,  or  of  its  subjects,  it  is  not  alleged  that  the  Monroe  doctrine  will 
assure  them  the  assistance  of  the  United  States  in  escaping  from  any 
reparation  which  they  may  be  bound  by  international  law  to  give.  Mr. 
Olney  expressly  disclaims  such  an  inference  from  the  principles  he 
lays  down. 

But  the  claim  which  he  founds  upon  them  is  that,  if  any  independent 
American  State  advances  a demand  for  territory  of  which  its  neigh- 
bor claims  to  be  the  owner,  and  that  neighbor  is  the  colony  of  a Euro- 
pean State,  the  United  States  have  a right  to  insist  that  the  European 
State  shall  submit  the  demand  and  its  own  impugned  rights  to  arbi- 
tration. 

I will  not  now  enter  into  a discussion  of  the  merits  of  this  method 
of  terminating  international  differences.  It  has  proved  itself  valuable 
in  many  cases ; but  it  is  not  free  from  defects,  which  often  operate  as 
a serious  drawback  on  its  value.  It  is  not  always  easy  to  find  an 
Arbitrator  who  is  competent,  and  who,  at  the  same  time,  is  wholly 
free  from  bias ; and  the  task  of  insuring  compliance  with  the  Award 
when  it  is  made  is  not  exempt  from  difficulty.  It  is  a mode  of  settle- 
ment of  which  the  value  varies  much  according  to  the  nature  of  the 
controversy  to  which  it  is  applied,  and  the  character  of  the  litigants 


APPENDIX 


295 


who  appeal  to  it.  "Whether,  in  any  particular  case,  it  is  a suitable 
method  of  procedure  is  generally  a delicate  and  difficult  question.  The 
only  parties  who  are  competent  to  decide  that  question  are  the  two 
parties  whose  rival  contentions  are  in  issue.  The  claim  of  a third 
nation,  which  is  unaffected  by  the  controversy,  to  impose  this  particular 
procedure  on  either  of  the  two  others,  cannot  be  reasonably  justified, 
and  has  no  foundation  in  the  law  of  nations. 

In  the  remarks  which  I have  made  I have  argued  on  the  theory  that 
the  Monroe  doctrine  in  itself  is  sound.  I must  not,  however,  be  under- 
stood as  expressing  any  acceptance  of  it  on  the  part  of  Her  Majesty’s 
Government.  It  must  always  be  mentioned  with  respect,  on  account  of 
the  distinguished  statesman  to  whom  it  is  due,  and  the  great  nation 
who  have  generally  adopted  it.  But  international  law  is  founded  on 
the  general  consent  of  nations ; and  no  statesman,  however  eminent, 
and  no  nation,  however  powerful,  are  competent  to  insert  into  the  code 
of  international  law  a novel  principle  which  was  never  recognized  before, 
and  which  has  not  since  been  accepted  by  the  Government  of  any  other 
country.  The  United  States  have  a right,  like  any  other  nation,  to 
interpose  in  any  controversy  by  which  their  own  interests  are  affected ; 
and  they  are  the  judge  whether  those  interests  are  touched,  and  in 
what  measure  they  should  be  sustained.  But  their  rights  are  in  no 
way  strengthened  or  extended  by  the  fact  that  the  controversy  affects 
some  territory  which  is  called  American.  Mr.  Olney  quotes  the  case  of 
the  recent  Chilian  war,  in  which  the  United  States  declined  to  join 
with  France  and  England  in  an  effort  to  bring  hostilities  to  a close,  on 
account  of  the  Monroe  doctrine.  The  United  States  were  entirely  in 
their  right  in  declining  to  join  in  an  attempt  at  pacification  if  they 
thought  fit ; but  Mr.  Olney’s  principle  that  “ American  questions  are 
for  American  decision,”  even  if  it  receive  any  countenance  from  the 
language  of  President  Monroe  (which  it  does  not),  cannot  be  sustained 
by  any  reasoning  drawn  from  the  law  of  nations. 

The  Government  of  the  United  States  is  not  entitled  to  affirm  as  a 
universal  proposition,  with  reference  to  a number  of  independent  States 
for  whose  conduct  it  assumes  no  responsibility,  that  its  interests  are 
necessarily  concerned  in  whatever  may  befall  those  States  simply  be- 
cause they  are  situated  in  the  Western  Hemisphere.  It  may  well  be 
that  the  interests  of  the  United  States  are  affected  by  something  that 
happens  to  Chili  or  to  Peru,  and  that  that  circumstance  may  give  them 
the  right  of  interference ; but  such  a contingency  may  equally  happen 


296 


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in  the  case  of  China  or  Japan,  and  the  right  of  interference  is  not 
more  extensive  or  more  assured  in  the  one  case  than  in  the  other. 

Though  the  language  of  President  Monroe  is  directed  to  the  attain- 
ment of  objects  which  most  Englishmen  would  agree  to  be  salutary,  it 
is  impossible  to  admit  that  they  have  been  inscribed  by  any  adequate 
authority  in  the  code  of  international  law ; and  the  danger  which  such 
admission  would  involve  is  sufficiently  exhibited  both  by  the  strange 
development  which  the  doctrine  has  received  at  Mr.  Olney’s  hands,  and 
the  arguments  by  which  it  is  supported,  in  the  despatch  under  reply. 
In  defence  of  it  he  says : 

“ That  distance  and  3,000  miles  of  intervening  ocean  make  any  permanent  polit- 
ical union  between  a European  and  an  American  State  unnatural  and  inexpedient  will 
hardly  be  denied.  But  physical  and  geographical  considerations  are  the  least  of 
the  objections  to  such  a union.  Europe  has  a set  of  primary  interests  which  are 
peculiar  to  herself ; America  is  not  interested  in  them,  and  ought  not  to  be  vexed 
or  complicated  with  them.” 

And,  again : 

‘‘Thus  far  in  our  history  we  have  been  spared  the  burdens  and  evils  of  immense 
standing  armies,  and  all  the  other  accessories  of  huge  warlike  establishments  ; and 
the  exemption  has  highly  contributed  to  our  national  greatness  and  wealth,  as  well 
as  to  the  happiness  of  every  citizen.  But  with  the  Powers  of  Europe  permanently 
encamped  on  American  soil,  the  ideal  conditions  we  have  thus  far  enjoyed  cannot 
be  expected  to  continue.” 

The  necessary  meaning  of  these  words  is  that  the  union  between 
Great  Britain  and  Canada  ; between  Great  Britain  and  Jamaica  and 
Trinidad ; between  Great  Britain  and  British  Honduras  or  British 
Guiana  are  “ inexpedient  and  unnatural.”  President  Monroe  disclaims 
any  such  inference  from  his  doctrine ; but  in  this,  as  in  other  respects, 
Mr.  Olney  develops  it.  He  lays  down  that  the  inexpedient  and  unnat- 
ural character  of  the  union  between  a European  and  an  American  State 
is  so  obvious  that  it  “ will  hardly  be  denied.”  Her  Majesty’s  Government 
are  prepared  emphatically  to  deny  it  on  behalf  of  both  the  British  and 
American  people  who  are  subject  to  her  Crown.  They  maintain  that 
the  union  between  Great  Britain  and  her  territories  in  the  Western 
Hemisphere  is  both  natural  and  expedient.  They  fully  concur  with  the 
view  which  President  Monroe  apparently  entertained,  that  any  disturb- 
ance of  the  existing  territorial  distribution  in  that  hemisphere  by  any 
fresh  acquisitions  on  the  part  of  any  European  State  would  be  a highly 
inexpedient  change.  But  they  are  not  prepared  to  admit  that  the  rec- 


APPENDIX 


297 


ognition  of  that  expediency  is  clothed  with  the  sanction  which  belongs 
to  a doctrine  of  international  law.  They  are  not  prepared  to  admit 
that  the  interests  of  the  United  States  are  necessarily  concerned  in 
every  frontier  dispute  which  may  arise  between  any  two  of  the  States 
who  possess  dominion  in  the  Western  Hemisphere;  and  still  less  can 
they  accept  the  doctrine  that  the  United  States  are  entitled  to  claim 
that  the  process  of  arbitration  shall  be  applied  to  any  demand  for  the 
surrender  of  territory  which  one  of  those  States  may  make  against 
another. 

I have  commented  in  the  above  remarks  only  upon  the  general 
aspect  of  Mr.  Olney’s  doctrines,  apart  from  the  special  considerations 
which  attach  to  the  controversy  between  the  United  Kingdom  and 
Venezuela  in  its  present  phase.  This  controversy  has  undoubtedly  been 
made  more  difficult  by  the  inconsiderate  action  of  the  Venezuelan 
Government  in  breaking  off  relations  w'ith  Her  Majesty’s  Government, 
and  its  settlement  has  been  correspondingly  delayed  ; but  Her  Majesty’s 
Government  have  not  surrendered  the  hope  that  it  will  be  adjusted  by  a 
reasonable  arrangement  at  an  early  date. 

I request  that  you  will  read  the  substance  of  the  above  despatch  to 
Mr.  Olney,  and  leave  him  a copy  if  he  desires  it. 

S. 


Lord  Salisbury  to  Sir  Julian  Pauncefote. 

No.  190.]  Foreign  Office, 

November  26,  1895. 

Sir, — In  my  preceding  despatch  of  to-day’s  date  I have  replied  only 
to  the  latter  portion  of  Mr.  Olney’s  despatch  of  the  20th  July  last, 
which  treats  of  the  application  of  the  Monroe  doctrine  to  the  question 
of  the  boundary  dispute  between  Venezuela  and  the  colony  of  British 
Guiana.  But  it  seems  desirable,  in  order  to  remove  some  evident  mis- 
apprehensions as  to  the  main  features  of  the  question,  that  the  state- 
ment of  it  contained  in  the  earlier  portion  of  Mr.  Olney’s  despatch 
should  not  be  left  without  reply.  Such  a course  w’ill  be  the  more  con- 
venient, because,  in  consequence  of  the  suspension  of  diplomatic  rela- 
tions, I shall  not  have  the  opportunity  of  setting  right  misconceptions 
of  this  kind  in  the  ordinary  way  in  a despatch  addressed  to  the  Vene- 
zuelan Government  itself. 

Her  Majesty’s  Government,  while  they  have  never  avoided  or  de- 


298 


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dined  argument  on  tbe  subject  with  tbe  Government  of  Venezuela,  have 
always  held  that  the  question  was  one  which  had  no  direct  bearing  on 
the  material  interests  of  any  other  country,  and  have  consequently  re- 
frained hitherto  from  presenting  any  detailed  statement  of  their  case 
either  to  the  United  States  or  to  other  foreign  Governments. 

It  is,  perhaps,  a natural  consequence  of  this  circumstance  that  Mr. 
Olney’s  narration  of  what  has  passed  bears  the  impress  of  being  mainly, 
if  not  entirely,  founded  on  ex  parte  statements  emanating  from  Vene- 
zuela, and  gives,  in  the  opinion  of  Her  Majesty’s  Government,  an  erro- 
neous view  of  many  material  facts. 

Mr.  Olney  commences  his  observations  by  remarking  that  “ the  dis- 
pute is  of  ancient  date,  and  began  at  least  as  early  as  the  time  when 
Great  Britain  acquired  by  the  Treaty  with  the  Netherlands  in  1814  the 
establishments  of  Demerara,  Essequibo,  and  Berbice.  From  that  time 
to  the  present  the  dividing  line  between  these  establishments,  now 
called  British  Guiana,  and  Venezuela  has  never  ceased  to  be  subject 
of  contention.” 

This  statement  is  founded  on  misconception.  The  dispute  on  the 
subject  of  the  frontier  did  not,  in  fact,  commence  till  after  the  year 
1840. 

The  title  of  Great  Britain  to  the  territory  in  question  is  derived,  in 
the  first  place,  from  conquest  and  military  occupation  of  the  Dutch 
settlements  in  1796.  Both  on  this  occasion,  and  at  the  time  of  a previous 
occupation  of  those  settlements  in  1781,  the  British  authorities  marked 
the  western  boundary  of  their  possessions  as  beginning  some  distance 
up  the  Orinoco  beyond  Point  Barima,  in  accordance  with  the  limits 
claimed  and  actually  held  by  the  Dutch,  and  this  has  always  since 
remained  the  frontier  claimed  by  Great  Britain.  The  definite  cession 
of  the  Dutch  settlements  to  England  was,  as  Mr.  Olney  states,  placed 
on  record  by  the  Treaty  of  1814,  and  although  the  Spanish  Government 
were  parties  to  the  negotiations  which  led  to  that  Treaty,  they  did  not 
at  any  stage  of  them  raise  objection  to  the  frontiers  claimed  by  Great 
Britain,  though  these  were  perfectly  well  known  to  them.  At  that  time 
the  Government  of  Venezuela  had  not  been  recognized  even  by  the 
United  States,  though  the  province  was  already  in  revolt  against  the 
Spanish  Government,  and  had  declared  its  independence.  No  question 
of  frontier  was  raised  with  Great  Britain  either  by  it  or  by  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  of  Colombia,  in  which  it  became  merged 
in  1819.  That  Government,  indeed,  on  repeated  occasions,  acknowl- 


APPENDIX 


299 


edged  its  indebtedness  to  Great  Britain  for  her  friendly  attitude. 
When  in  1830  the  Republic  of  Venezuela  assumed  a separate  existence 
its  Government  was  equally  warm  in  its  expressions  of  gratitude  and 
friendship,  and  there  was  not  at  the  time  any  indication  of  an  intention 
to  raise  such  claims  as  have  been  urged  by  it  during  the  latter  portion 
of  this  century. 

It  is  true,  as  stated  by  Mr.  Olney,  that,  in  the  Venezuelan  Constitu- 
tion of  1830,  Article  5 lays  down  that  “ the  territory  of  Venezuela  com- 
prises all  that  which  previously  to  the  political  changes  of  1810  was 
denominated  the  Captaincy-General  of  Venezuela.”  Similar  declara- 
tions had  been  made  in  the  fundamental  laws  promulgated  in  1819  and 
1821. 

I need  not  point  out  that  a declaration  of  this  kind  made  by  a newly 
self-constituted  State  can  have  no  valid  force  as  against  international 
arrangements  previously  concluded  by  the  nation  from  which  it  has 
separated  itself. 

But  the  present  difficulty  would  never  have  arisen  if  the  Government 
of  Venezuela  had  been  content  to  claim  only  those  territories  which 
could  be  proved  or  even  reasonably  asserted  to  have  been  practically 
in  the  possession  and  under  the  effective  jurisdiction  of  the  Captaincy- 
General  of  Venezuela. 

There  is  no  authoritative  statement  by  the  Spanish  Government  of 
those  territories,  for  a Decree  which  the  Venezuelan  Government  allege 
to  have  been  issued  by  the  King  of  Spain  in  1768,  describing  the 
Province  of  Guiana  as  bordered  on  the  south  by  the  Amazon  and  on 
the  east  by  the  Atlantic,  certainly  cannot  be  regarded  as  such.  It 
absolutely  ignores  the  Dutch  settlements,  which  not  only  existed  in 
fact,  but  had  been  formally  recognized  by  the  Treaty  of  Munster  of 
1648,  and  it  would,  if  now  considered  valid,  transfer  to  Venezuela  the 
whole  of  the  British,  Dutch,  and  French  Guianas,  and  an  enormous 
tract  of  territory  belonging  to  Brazil. 

But  of  the  territories  claimed  and  actually  occupied  by  the  Dutch, 
which  were  those  acquired  from  them  by  Great  Britain,  there  exist 
the  most  authentic  declarations.  In  1759,  and  again  in  1769,  the 
States  - General  of  Holland  addressed  formal  remonstrances  to  the 
Court  of  Madrid  against  the  incursions  of  the  Spaniards  into  their 
posts  and  settlements  in  the  basin  of  the  Cuyuni.  In  these  remon- 
strances they  distinctly  claimed  all  the  branches  of  the  Essequibo 
River,  and,  especially,  the  Cuyuni  River,  as  lying  within  Dutch  territory. 


300 


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They  demanded  immediate  reparation  for  the  proceedings  of  the 
Spaniards  and  reinstatement  of  the  posts  said  to  have  been  injured 
by  them,  and  suggested  that  a proper  delineation  between  the  Colony 
of  Essequibo  and  the  Rio  Orinoco  should  be  laid  down  by  authority. 

To  this  claim  the  Spanish  Government  never  attempted  to  make  any 
reply.  But  it  is  evident  from  the  archives  which  are  preserved  in  Spain, 
and  to  which,  by  the  courtesy  of  the  Spanish  Government,  reference 
has  been  made,  that  the  Council  of  State  did  not  consider  that  they 
had  the  means  of  rebutting  it,  and  that  neither  they  nor  the  Governor 
of  Cumana  were  prepared  seriously  to  maintain  the  claims  which  were 
suggested  in  reports  from  his  subordinate  officer,  the  Commandant  of 
Guiana.  These  reports  were  characterized  by  the  Spanish  Ministers  as 
insufficient  and  unsatisfactory,  as  “ professing  to  show  the  Province  of 
Guiana  under  too  favorable  a light,”  and  finally  by  the  Council  of 
State  as  appearing  from  other  information  to  be  “very  improbable.” 
They  form,  however,  with  a map  which  accompanied  them,  the  evi- 
dence on  which  the  Venezuelan  Government  appear  most  to  rely, 
though  it  may  be  observed  that  among  other  documents  which  have 
from  time  to  time  been  produced  or  referred  to  by  them  in  the  course 
of  the  discussions  is  a Bull  of  Pope  Alexander  VI.  in  1493,  which, 
if  it  is  to  be  considered  as  having  any  present  validity,  would  take 
from  the  Government  of  the  United  States  all  title  to  jurisdiction  on 
the  Continent  of  North  America.  The  fundamental  principle  under- 
lying the  Venezuelan  argument  is,  in  fact,  that,  inasmuch  as  Spain 
was  originally  entitled  of  right  to  the  whole  of  the  American  Conti- 
nent, any  territory  on  that  Continent  which  she  cannot  be  shown  to 
have  acknowledged  in  positive  and  specific  terms  to  have  passed  to 
another  Power  can  only  have  been  acquired  by  wrongful  usurpation, 
and  if  situated  to  the  north  of  the  Amazon  and  west  of  the  Atlantic 
must  necessarily  belong  to  Venezuela,  as  her  self-constituted  inheritor 
in  those  regions.  It  may  reasonably  be  asked  whether  Mr.  Olney  would 
consent  to  refer  to  the  arbitration  of  another  Power  pretensions  raised 
by  the  Government  of  Mexico  on  such  a foundation  to  large  tracts  of 
territory  which  had  long  been  comprised  in  the  Federation. 

The  circumstances  connected  with  the  marking  of  what  is  called  the 
“ Schomburgk ” line  are  as  follows: 

In  1835  a grant  was  made  by  the  British  Government  for  the  explora- 
tion of  the  interior  of  the  British  Colony,  and  Mr.  (afterwards  Sir  Rob- 
ert) Schomburgk,  who  was  employed  on  this  service,  on  his  return  to 


APPENDIX 


301 


the  capital  of  the  Colony  in  July,  1839,  called  the  attention  of  the  Gov- 
ernment to  the  necessity  for  an  early  demarcation  of  its  boundaries.  He 
was  in  consequence  appointed  in  November,  1840,  Special  Commissioner 
for  provisionally  surveying  and  delimiting  the  boundaries  of  British 
Guiana,  and  notice  of  the  appointment  was  given  to  the  Governments 
concerned,  including  that  of  Venezuela. 

The  intention  of  Her  Majesty’s  Government  at  that  time  was,  when  the 
work  of  the  Commissioner  had  been  completed,  to  communicate  to  the 
other  Governments  their  views  as  to  the  true  boundary  of  the  British 
Colony,  and  then  to  settle  any  details  to  which  those  Governments  might 
take  objection. 

It  is  important  to  notice  that  Sir  R.  Schomburgk  did  not  discover  or 
invent  any  new  boundaries.  He  took  particular  care  to  fortify  himself 
with  the  history  of  the  case.  He  had  further,  from  actual  exploration 
and  information  obtained  from  the  Indians,  and  from  the  evidence  of 
local  remains,  as  at  Barima,  and  local  traditions,  as  on  the  Cuyuni, 
fixed  the  limits  of  the  Dutch  possessions,  and  the  zone  from  which  all 
trace  of  Spanish  influence  was  absent.  On  such  data  he  based  his  re- 
ports. 

At  the  very  outset  of  Ids  mission  he  surveyed  Point  Barima,  where 
the  remains  of  a Dutch  fort  still  existed,  and  placed  there  and  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Amacura  two  boundary  posts.  At  the  urgent  entreaty  of 
the  Venezuelan  Government  these  two  posts  were  afterwards  removed, 
as  stated  by  Mr.  Olnev,  but  this  concession  was  made  on  the  distinct 
understanding  that  Great  Britain  did  not  thereby  in  any  way  abandon 
her  claim  to  that  position. 

In  submitting  the  maps  of  his  survey,  on  which  he  indicated  the  line 
which  he  would  propose  to  Her  Majesty’s  Government  for  adoption,  Sir 
R.  Schomburgk  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  Her  Majesty’s  Govern- 
ment might  justly  claim  the  whole  basin  of  the  Cuyuni  and  Yuruari  on 
the  ground  that  the  natural  boundary  of  the  Colony  included  any  terri- 
tory through  which  flow  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Essequibo.  “Upon 
this  principle,”  he  wrote,  “the  boundary  line  would  run  from  the 
sources  of  the  Carumani  towards  the  sources  of  the  Cuyuni  proper, 
and  from  thence  towards  its  far  more  northern  tributaries,  the  Rivers 
Iruary  (Yuruari)  and  Iruang  (Yuruan),  and  thus  approach  the  very 
heart  of  Venezuelan  Guiana.”  But,  on  grounds  of  complaisance  tow- 
ards Venezuela,  he  proposed  that  Great  Britain  should  consent  to  sur- 
render her  claim  to  a more  extended  frontier  inland  in  return  for  the 


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formal  recognition  of  her  right  to  Point  Barima.  It  was  on  this  prin- 
ciple that  he  drew  the  boundary  line  which  has  since  been  called  by 
his  name. 

Undoubtedly,  therefore,  Mr.  Olney  is  right  when  he  states  that  ‘‘it 
seems  impossible  to  treat  the  Schomburgk  line  as  being  the  boundary 
claimed  by  Great  Britain  as  matter  of  right,  or  as  anything  but  a line 
originating  in  considerations  of  convenience  and  expediency.”  The 
Schomburgk  line  was  in  fact  a great  reduction  of  the  boundary  claimed 
by  Great  Britain  as  a matter  of  right,  and  its  proposal  originated  in  a 
desire  to  come  to  a speedy  and  friendly  arrangement  with  a weaker 
Power  with  whom  Great  Britain  was  at  the  time,  and  desired  to  remain, 
in  cordial  relations. 

The  following  are  the  main  facts  of  the  discussions  that  ensued  with 
the  Venezuelan  Government: — 

While  M r.  Schomburgk  was  engaged  on  his  survey  the  Venezuelan 
Minister  in  London  had  urged  Her  Majesty’s  Government  to  enter  into 
a Treaty  of  Limits,  but  received  the  answer  that,  if  it  should  be  necessary 
to  enter  into  such  a Treaty,  a survey  was,  at  any  rate,  the  necessary  pre- 
liminary, and  that  this  was  proceeding. 

As  soon  as  Her  Majesty’s  Government  were  in  possession  of  Mr. 
Schomburgk’s  reports,  the  Venezuelan  Minister  was  informed  that  they 
were  in  a position  to  commence  negotiations,  and  in  January,  1S44,  M. 
Fortique  commenced  by  stating  the  claim  of  his  Government. 

This  claim,  starting  from  such  obsolete  grounds  as  the  original  dis- 
covery by  Spain  of  the  American  Continent,  and  mainly  supported  by 
quotations  of  a more  or  less  vague  character  from  the  writings  of  trav- 
ellers and  geographers,  but  adducing  no  substantial  evidence  of  actual 
conquest  or  occupation  of  the  territory  claimed,  demanded  the  Essequibo 
itself  as  the  boundary  of  Venezuela. 

A reply  was  returned  by  Lord  Aberdeen,  then  Secretary  of  State  for 
Foreign  Affairs,  pointing  out  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  arrive  at 
any  agreement  if  both  sides  brought  forward  pretensions  of  so  extreme 
a character,  but  stating  that  the  British  Government  would  not  imi- 
tate M.  Fortique  in  putting  forward  a claim  which  it  could  not  be  in- 
tended seriously  to  maintain.  Lord  Aberdeen  then  proceeded  to  an- 
nounce the  concessions  which,  “out  of  friendly  regard  to  Venezuela,” 
Her  Majesty’s  Government  were  prepared  to  make,  and  proposed  a line 
starting  from  the  mouth  of  the  Moroco  to  the  junction  of  the  River 
Barama  with  the  VTaini,  thence  up  the  Bararna  to  the  point  at  which 


APPENDIX 


303 


that  stream  approached  nearest  to  the  Acarabisi,  and  thence  following 
Sir  R.  Schomburgk’s  line  from  the  source  of  the  Acarabisi  onwards. 

A condition  was  attached  to  the  proffered  cession — viz.,  that  the  Ven- 
ezuelan Government  should  enter  into  an  engagement  that  no  portion 
of  the  territory  proposed  to  be  ceded  should  be  alienated  at  any  time 
to  a foreign  Power,  and  that  the  Indian  tribes  residing  in  it  should  be 
protected  from  oppression. 

No  answer  to  the  note  was  ever  received  from  the  Venezuelan  Gov- 
ernment, and  in  1850  Her  Majesty’s  Government  informed  Her  Majesty’s 
Charge  d’Affaires  at  Caracas  that  as  the  proposal  had  remained  for 
more  than  six  years  unaccepted,  it  must  be  considered  as  having  lapsed, 
and  authorized  him  to  make  a communication  to  the  Venezuelan  Gov- 
ernment to  that  effect. 

A report  having  at  the  time  become  current  in  Venezuela  that  Great 
Britain  intended  to  seize  Venezuelan  Guiana,  the  British  Government 
distinctly  disclaimed  such  an  intention,  but  inasmuch  as  the  Government 
of  Venezuela  subsequently  permitted  projects  to  be  set  on  foot  for  the 
occupation  of  Point  Barima  and  certain  other  positions  in  dispute,  the 
British  Charge  d’Affaires  was  instructed  in  June,  1850,  to  call  the  seri- 
ous attention  of  the  President  and  Government  of  Venezuela  to  the 
question,  and  to  declare  to  them  “ that,  whilst,  on  the  one  hand,  Great 
Britain  had  no  intention  to  occupy  or  encroach  on  the  disputed  terri- 
tory, she  would  not,  on  the  other  hand,  view  with  indifference  aggres- 
sions on  that  territory  by  Venezuela.” 

The  Venezuelan  Government  replied  in  December  of  the  same  year 
that  Venezuela  had  no  intention  of  occupying  or  encroaching  upon  any 
part  of  the  territory  the  dominion  of  which  was  in  dispute,  and  that 
orders  would  be  issued  to  the  authorities  in  Guiana  to  abstain  from  tak- 
ing any  steps  contrary  to  this  engagement. 

This  constitutes  what  has  been  termed  the  “Agreement  of  1850,” 
to  which  the  Government  of  Venezuela  have  frequently  appealed, 
but  which  the  Venezuelans  have  repeatedly  violated  in  succeeding 
years. 

Their  first  acts  of  this  nature  consisted  in  the  occupation  of  fresh 
positions  to  the  east  of  their  previous  settlements,  and  the  founding  in 
1858  of  the  town  of  Nueva  Providencia  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Yu- 
ruari,  all  previous  settlements  being  on  the  left  bank.  The  British 
Government,  however,  considering  that  these  settlements  were  so  near 
positions  which  they  had  not  wished  to  claim,  considering  also  the  diffi- 


304 


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culty  of  controlling  the  movements  of  mining  populations,  overlooked 
this  breach  of  the  Agreement. 

The  Governor  of  the  Colony  was  in  1857  sent  to  Caracas  to  negotiate 
for  a settlement  of  the  boundary,  but  he  found  the  Venezuelan  State 
in  so  disturbed  a condition  that  it  was  impossible  to  commence  nego- 
tiations, and  eventually  he  came  away  without  having  effected  any- 
thing. 

For  the  next  nineteen  years,  as  stated  by  Mr.  Olney,  the  civil  com- 
motions in  Venezuela  prevented  any  resumption  of  negotiations. 

In  1876  it  was  reported  that  the  Venezuelan  Government  had,  for  the 
second  time,  broken  “the  Agreement  of  1850”  by  granting  licenses 
to  trade  and  cut  wood  in  Barima  and  eastward.  Later  in  the  same 
year  that  Government  once  more  made  an  overture  for  the  settlement 
of  the  boundary.  Various  delays  interposed  before  negotiations  actually 
commenced  ; and  it  was  not  till  1879  that  Senor  Rojaz  began  them  with 
a renewal  of  the  claim  to  the  Essequibo  as  the  eastern  boundary  of 
Venezuelan  Guiana.  At  the  same  time  he  stated  that  his  Government 
wished  “ to  obtain,  by  means  of  a Treaty,  a definitive  settlement  of  the 
question,  and  was  disposed  to  proceed  to  the  demarcation  of  the  divi- 
sional line  between  the  two  Guianas  in  a spirit  of  conciliation  and  true 
friendship  towards  Her  Majesty’s  Government.” 

In  reply  to  this  communication,  a note  was  addressed  to  Senor  Rojaz 
on  the  10th  January,  1880,  reminding  him  that  the  boundary  which 
Her  Majesty’s  Government  claimed,  as  a matter  of  strict  right  on  grounds 
of  conquest  and  concession  by  Treaty,  commenced  at  a point  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Orinoco,  westward  of  Point  Bariina,  that  it  proceeded 
thence  in  a southerly  direction  to  the  Imataca  Mountains,  the  line  of 
which  it  followed  to  the  northwest,  passing  from  thence  by  the  high 
land  of  Santa  Maria  just  south  of  the  town  of  Upata,  until  it  struck  a 
range  of  hills  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Caroni  River,  following  these 
southwards  until  it  struck  the  great  backbone  of  the  Guiana  district, 
the  Barima  Mountains  of  British  Guiana,  and  thence  southwards  to  the 
Pacaraima  Mountains.  On  the  other  hand,  the  claim  which  had  been 
put  forward  on  behalf  of  Venezuela  by  General  Guzman  Blanco  in  his 
message  to  the  National  Congress  of  the  20th  February,  1877,  would 
involve  the  surrender  of  a province  now  inhabited  by  40,000  British 
subjects,  and  which  had  been  in  the  uninterrupted  possession  of  Holland 
and  of  Great  Britain  successively  for  two  centuries.  The  difference 
between  these  two  claims  being  so  great,  it  was  pointed  out  to  Senor 


APPENDIX 


305 


Rojaz  that,  in  order  to  arrive  at  a satisfactory  arrangement,  each  party 
must  be  prepared  to  make  very  considerable  concessions  to  the  other, 
and  he  was  assured  that,  although  the  claim  of  Venezuela  to  the  Esse- 
quibo  River  boundary  could  not,  under  any  circumstances,  be  enter- 
tained, yet  that  Her  Majesty’s  Government  were  anxious  to  meet  the 
Venezuelan  Government  in  a spirit  of  conciliation,  and  would  be  will- 
ing, in  the  event  of  a renewal  of  negotiations  for  the  general  settlement 
of  boundaries,  to  waive  a portion  of  what  they  considered  to  be  their 
strict  rights  if  Venezuela  were  really  disposed  to  make  corresponding 
concessions  on  her  part. 

The  Venezuelan  Minister  replied  in  February,  1881,  by  proposing  a 
line  which  commenced  on  the  coast  a mile  to  the  north  of  the  Moroco 
River,  and  followed  certain  parallels  and  meridians  inland,  bearing  a 
general  resemblance  to  the  proposal  made  by  Lord  Aberdeen  in  1844. 

Seiior  Rojaz’s  proposal  was  referred  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor  and 
Attorney-General  of  British  Guiana,  who  were  then  in  England,  and 
they  presented  an  elaborate  Report,  showing  that  in  the  thirty -five 
years  which  had  elapsed  since  Lord  Aberdeen’s  proposed  concession, 
natives  and  others  had  settled  in  the  territory  under  the  belief  that 
they  would  enjoy  the  benefits  of  British  rule,  and  that  it  was  impos- 
sible to  assent  to  any  such  concessions  as  Seiior  Rojaz’s  line  would  in- 
volve. They,  however,  proposed  an  alternative  line,  which  involved  con- 
siderable reductions  of  that  laid  down  by  Sir  R.  Schomburgk. 

This  boundary  was  proposed  to  the  Venezuelan  Government  by  Lord 
Granville  in  September,  1881,  but  no  answer  was  ever  returned  by  that 
Government  to  the  proposal. 

While,  however,  the  Venezuelan  Minister  constantly  stated  that  the 
matter  was  under  active  consideration,  it  was  found  that  in  the  same 
year  a Concession  had  been  given  by  his  Government  to  General  Pulgar, 
which  included  a large  portion  of  the  territory  in  dispute.  This  was 
the  third  breach  by  Venezuela  of  the  Agreement  of  1850. 

Early  in  1884  news  arrived  of  a fourth  breach  by  Venezuela  of  the 
Agreement  of  1850,  through  two  different  grants  which  covered  the 
whole  of  the  territory  in  dispute,  and  as  this  was  followed  by  actual 
attempts  to  settle  on  the  djsputed  territory,  the  British  Government 
could  no  longer  remain  inactive. 

Warning  was  therefore  given  to  the  Venezuelan  Government  and  to 
the  concessionnaries,  and  a British  Magistrate  was  sent  into  the  threat- 
ened district  to  assert  the  British  rights. 

20 


306 


VENEZUELA 


Meanwhile,  the  negotiations  for  a settlement  of  the  boundary  had 
continued,  but  the  only  replies  that  could  be  obtained  from  Senor  Guz- 
man Blanco,  the  Venezuelan  Minister,  were  proposals  for  arbitration 
in  different  forms,  all  of  which  Her  Majesty’s  Government  were  com- 
pelled to  decline  as  involving  a submission  to  the  Arbitrator  of  the 
claim  advanced  by  Venezuela  in  1844  to  all  territory  up  to  the  left 
bank  of  the  Essecpiibo. 

As  the  progress  of  settlement  by  British  subjects  made  a decision  of 
some  kind  absolutely  necessary,  and  as  the  Venezuelan  Government  re- 
fused to  come  to  any  reasonable  arrangement,  Her  Majesty’s  Govern- 
ment decided  not  to  repeat  the  offer  of  concessions  which  had  not  been 
reciprocated,  but  to  assert  their  undoubted  right  to  the  territory  within 
the  Sehomburgk  line,  while  still  consenting  to  hold  open  for  further 
negotiation,  and  even  for  arbitration,  the  unsettled  lands  between  that 
line  and  what  they  considered  to  be  the  rightful  boundary,  as  stated  in 
the  note  to  Senor  Rojaz  of  the  10th  January,  1880. 

The  execution  of  this  decision  was  deferred  for  a time,  owing  to  the 
return  of  Senor  Guzman  Blanco  to  London,  and  the  desire  of  Lord 
Rosebery,  then  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs,  to  settle  all 
pending  questions  between  the  two  Governments.  Mr.  Olney  is  mis- 
taken in  supposing  that  in  1886  “ a Treaty  was  practically  agreed  upon 
containing  a general  arbitration  clause,  under  which  the  parties  might 
have  submitted  the  boundary  dispute  to  the  decision  of  a third  Power, 
or  of  several  Powers  in  amity  with  both.”  It  is  true  that  General 
Guzman  Blanco  proposed  that  the  Commercial  Treaty  between  the  two 
countries  should  contain  a clause  of  this  nature,  but  it  had  reference  to 
future  disputes  only.  Her  Majesty’s  Government  have  always  insisted 
on  a separate  discussion  of  the  frontier  question,  and  have  considered 
its  settlement  to  be  a necessary  preliminary  to  other  arrangements. 
Lord  Rosebery’s  proposal  made  in  July,  1886,  was  “ that  the  two  Gov- 
ernments should  agree  to  consider  the  territory  lying  between  the 
boundary  lines  respectively  proposed  in  the  8th  paragraph  of  Senor 
Rojaz’s  note  of  the  21st  February,  1881,  and  in  Lord  Granville’s  note  of 
the  15th  September,  1881,  as  the  territory  in  dispute  between  the  two 
countries,  and  that  a boundary  line  within  the  limits  of  this  territory 
should  be  traced  either  by  an  Arbitrator  or  by  a Joint  Commission  on 
the  basis  of  an  equal  division  of  this  territory,  due  regard  being  had 
to  natural  boundaries.” 

Senor  Guzman  Blanco  replied  declining  the  proposal,  and  repeating 


APPENDIX 


307 


that  arbitration,  on  the  whole  claim  of  Venezuela,  was  the  only  method 
of  solution  which  he  could  suggest.  This  pretension  is  hardly  less 
exorbitant  than  would  be  a refusal  by  Great  Britain  to  agree  to  an  arbi- 
tration on  the  boundary  of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska,  unless  the 
United  States  would  consent  to  bring  into  question  one-half  of  the 
whole  area  of  the  latter  territory.  He  shortly  afterwards  left  England, 
and  as  there  seemed  no  hope  of  arriving  at  an  agreement  by  further 
discussions,  the  Schomburgk  line  was  proclaimed  as  the  irreducible 
boundary  of  the  Colony  in  October,  1886.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  in  taking  this  step  Her  Majesty’s  Government  did  not  assert  any- 
thing approaching  their  extreme  claim,  but  confined  themselves  within 
the  limits  of  what  had  as  early  as  1840  been  suggested  as  a concession 
out  of  friendly  regard  and  complaisance. 

When  Senor  Guzman  Blanco,  having  returned  to  Venezuela,  an- 
nounced his  intention  of  erecting  a light-house  at  Point  Barima,  the 
British  Government  expressed  their  readiness  to  permit  this  if  he  would 
enter  into  a formal  written  agreement  that  its  erection  would  not  be 
held  to  prejudice  their  claim  to  the  site. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  Venezuelan  Government  had  sent  Commis- 
sioners into  the  territory  to  the  east  of  the  Schomburgk  line,  and  on 
their  return  two  notes  were  addressed  to  the  British  Minister  at  Cara- 
cas, dated  respectively  the  26th  and  31st  January,  1887,  demanding 
the  evacuation  of  the  whole  territory  held  by  Great  Britain  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Orinoco  to  the  Pomeroon  River,  and  adding  that  should 
this  not  be  done  by  the  20th  February,  and  should  the  evacuation  not 
be  accompanied  by  the  acceptance  of  arbitration  as  the  means  of  de- 
ciding the  pending  frontier  question,  diplomatic  relations  would  be 
broken  off.  In  pursuance  of  this  decision  the  British  Representative 
at  Caracas  received  his  passports,  and  relations  were  declared  by  the 
Venezuelan  Government  to  be  suspended  on  the  21st  February,  1887. 

In  December  of  that  year,  as  a matter  of  precaution,  and  in  order  that 
the  claims  of  Great  Britain  beyond  the  Schomburgk  line  might  not  be 
considered  to  have  been  abandoned,  a notice  was  issued  by  the  Gov- 
ernor of  British  Guiana  formally  reserving  those  claims.  Xo  steps  have, 
however,  at  any  time  been  taken  by  the  British  authorities  to  exercise 
jurisdiction  beyond  the  Schomburgk  line,  nor  to  interfere  with  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  Venezuelans  in  the  territory  outside  of  it,  although, 
pending  a settlement  of  the  dispute,  Great  Britain  cannot  recognize 
those  proceedings  as  valid,  or  as  conferring  any  legitimate  title. 


308 


VENEZUELA 


The  question  has  remained  in  this  position  ever  since ; the  bases  on 
which  Her  Majesty’s  Government  were  prepared  to  negotiate  for  its 
settlement  were  clearly  indicated  to  the  Venezuelan  Plenipotentiaries 
who  were  successively  despatched  to  London  in  1890, 1891,  and  1893  to 
negotiate  for  a renewal  of  diplomatic  relations,  but  as  on  those  occa- 
sions the  only  solutions  which  the  Venezuelan  Government  professed 
themselves  ready  to  accept  would  still  have  involved  the  submission  to 
arbitration  of  the  Venezuelan  claim  to  a large  portion  of  the  British 
Colony,  no  progress  has  yet  been  made  towards  a settlement. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  preceding  statement  that  the  Government  of 
Great  Britain  have  from  the  first  held  the  same  view  as  to  the  extent  of 
territory  which  they  are  entitled  to  claim  as  a matter  of  right.  It  com- 
prised the  coast-line  up  to  the  River  Amacura,  and  the  whole  basin  of 
the  Essequibo  River  and  its  tributaries.  A portion  of  that  claim,  how- 
ever, they  have  always  been  willing  to  waive  altogether ; in  regard  to 
another  portion,  they  have  been  and  continue  to  be  perfectly  ready  to 
submit  the  question  of  their  title  to  arbitration.  As  regards  the  rest, 
that  which  lies  within  the  so-called  Schomburgk  line,  they  do  not  con- 
sider that  the  rights  of  Great  Britain  are  open  to  question.  Even 
within  that  line  they  have,  on  various  occasions,  offered  to  Venezuela 
considerable  concessions  as  a matter  of  friendship  and  conciliation,  and 
for  the  purpose  of  securing  an  amicable  settlement  of  the  dispute.  If 
as  time  has  gone  on  the  concessions  thus  offered  diminished  in  extent, 
and  have  now  been  withdrawn,  this  has  been  the  necessary  consequence 
of  the  gradual  spread  over  the  country  of  British  settlements,  which 
Her  Majesty’s  Government  cannot  in  justice  to  the  inhabitants  offer  to 
surrender  to  foreign  rule,  and  the  justice  of  such  withdrawal  is  amply 
borne  out  by  the  researches  in  the  national  archives  of  Holland  and 
Spain,  which  have  furnished  further  and  more  convincing  evidence  in 
support  of  the  British  claims. 

The  discrepancies  in  the  frontiers  assigned  to  the  British  Colony  in 
various  maps  published  in  England,  and  erroneously  assumed  to  be 
founded  on  official  information,  are  easily  accounted  for  by  the  circum- 
stances which  I have  mentioned.  Her  Majesty’s  Government  cannot, 
of  course,  be  responsible  for  such  publications  made  without  their  au- 
thority. 

Although  the  negotiations  in  1890, 1891,  and  1893  did  not  lead  to  any 
result,  Her  Majesty’s  Government  have  not  abandoned  the  hope  that 
they  may  be  resumed  with  better  success,  and  that  when  the  internal 


APPENDIX 


309 


politics  of  Venezuela  are  settled  on  a more  durable  basis  than  has 
lately  appeared  to  be  the  case,  her  Government  may  be  enabled  to 
adopt  a more  moderate  and  conciliatory  course  in  regard  to  this  ques- 
tion than  that  of  their  predecessors.  Her  Majesty’s  Government  are 
sincerely  desirous  of  being  on  friendly  relations  with  Venezuela,  and 
certainly  have  no  design  to  seize  territory  that  properly  belongs  to  her, 
or  forcibly  to  extend  sovereignty  over  any  portion  of  her  population. 

They  have,  on  the  contrary,  repeatedly  expressed  their  readiness  to 
submit  to  arbitration  the  conflicting  claims  of  Great  Britain  and  Vene- 
zuela to  large  tracts  of  territory  which  from  their  auriferous  nature 
are  known  to  be  of  almost  untold  value.  But  they  cannot  consent  to 
entertain,  or  to  submit  to  the  arbitration  of  another  Power  or  of  foreign 
jurists,  however  eminent,  claims  based  on  the  extravagant  pretensions 
of  Spanish  officials  in  the  last  century,  and  involving  the  transfer  of 
large  numbers  of  British  subjects,  who  have  for  many  years  enjoyed 
the  settled  rule  of  a British  Colony,  to  a nation  of  different  race  and 
language,  whose  political  system  is  subject  to  frequent  disturbance, 
and  whose  institutions  as  yet  too  often  afford  very  inadequate  protec- 
tion to  life  and  property.  No  issue  of  this  description  has  ever  been 
involved  in  the  questions  which  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States 
have  consented  to  submit  to  arbitration,  and  Her  Majesty’s  Government 
are  convinced  that  in  similar  circumstances  the  Government  of  the 
United  States  would  be  equally  firm  in  declining  to  entertain  proposals 
of  such  a nature. 

Your  Excellency  is  authorized  to  state  the  substance  of  this  despatch 
to  Mr.  Olney,  and  to  leave  him  a copy  of  it  if  he  should  desire  it. 


INDEX 


A 

Advertisements  in  newspapers,  178. 
Agricultural  industries,  8,  11,  60,  184, 
185. 

Amazon,  The,  231, 254. 

Ambassadors,  Reception  of,  125. 
American  girl,  Romance  of,  111. 
Americans  in  Orinoco  country,  240. 
Andes,  The,  214,  226,  247. 

Antimino,  Village  of,  47,  105,  116, 
148,  171. 

Aqueduct  at  Caracas,  48. 

Archbishop,  Expulsion  of,  204. 
Architecture,  55,  58,  202. 

Area  of  British  Guiana,  245. 

of  Venezuela,  7. 

Aristocracy  of  Venezuela,  163,  169. 
Army  of  Venezuela,  132,  160. 

Arthur,  President,  125. 

Aspinwall,  222. 

Atienza,  Inez  de,  257. 

B 

Balboa,  Nunez  de,  3,  255. 

Banks  and  banking,  133,  137. 

Banner  of  Pizarro,  73. 

Barima  Island,  243. 

River  gold  digging,  252. 

Barry,  Mining  engineer,  53. 

Bathing,  Sea,  30,  35, 200. 

Battle  of  Victoria,  72. 

Bayard,  Mr.,  Minister,  254. 
Bibliographv  of  Venezuela  limited, 
51. 

Biographies  of  Bolivar,  84. 

Bishop  of  Caracas,  156. 


Blaine,  James  G.,  Portrait  of,  174. 
Bogota,  231. 

Bolivar,  Simon,  70,  78,  91,  130,  157, 
173,  203,  216. 

Mementos  of,  74. 

Bolivar’s  Tower  at  Caracas,  13. 
Boulton  & Co.,  39. 

Bliss  & Dallet,  39. 

Mr.  Henry,  55. 

Boundary  controversy,  146. 

Dispute,  President  Cleveland’s 

Message,  261-265. 

Brazilian  frontier  controversy,  251. 
Bull-fighting,  19. 

Butter,  189. 

C 

Cabinet  of  President,  131. 

Calhoun,  John  C.,  Life  of,  104. 
Capitals  of  Spanish  America,  52. 
Capitol  of  Venezuela,  The,  129,  204. 
Carabobo,  Battle  of,  215. 

Caracas,  4,  202,  213,  216. 

Captured  bv  Sir  Francis  Drake, 

40. 

Streets  of,  54. 

The  valley  of,  47. 

Caramba,  Church  of  the  Holy,  24. 
Caravalleda,  Town  of,  17. 

Carib  Indians,  248. 

The  fish,  223. 

Carthagena,  First  settlement  on  Ter- 
ra F'irma,  2. 

Casa  Amarilla,  124. 

Casada,  Gonzales  de,  255. 
Cassiquiare,  The  river,  231. 
Cathedral,  124,  202. 


312 


INDEX 


Catherine  the  Great,  66. 

Cattle  industry,  8,  188,  241,  250. 
Cemeteries,  183. 

Charles  V.’s  policy  towards  Vene- 
zuela, 3. 

Chica,  190. 

Chocolate,  194. 

Christening  children,  155. 

Churches,  202. 

Cities,  Principal,  of  Venezuela,  9. 
Ciudad  Bolivar,  9,  224,  231,  235. 
Civil  marriage  laws,  75. 

Cleveland,  Message  of  President, 
261-265. 

Climate,  Varieties  of,  8,  10,  12. 

Cocoa,  46,  194. 

Coffee-growing,  166,  191. 

Colombia,  Republic  of,  6. 

Colonial  authority  in  Guiana,  253. 
Colony,  First,  on  coast  at  Carthage- 
na,  2. 

Color  line  in  Venezuela,  156,  157. 
Columbus,  225,  258. 

Commission,  South  American,  125. 
Concessions  from  government,  44, 
136,  137,  164. 

Congress  of  Venezuela,  119,  141,  205. 
Consolidated  Virginia  mine,  237. 
Constitution  of  Venezuela,  6. 
Cooking,  Venezuelan,  186. 
Correspondence  of  Bolivar,  78. 

Cosa,  Juan  de  la,  pilot  of  Colum- 
bus, 1. 

Council,  Federal,  119. 

Crespo,  President,  120.  123,  125,  148, 
159. 

Madame,  123,  166. 

Crime  in  Venezuela,  22. 

Cura<;oa,  Colony  of,  12. 

D 

Declaration  of  Venezuelan  Indepen- 
dence, 64. 

Discovery  of  Venezuela,  1. 

Disputed  territory  in  Venezuela. 
242. 

Divorce  unknown  in  Venezuela, 
128. 


Donkeys,  198,  218. 

Drake,  Sir  F'rancis,  9,  39. 
Drunkenness  in  Venezuela,  23. 

Dutch  gold  mining,  252. 

E 

Earthquake,  4,  53,  72, 129. 

Eastwick,  English  author,  52. 

El  Callao  mine,  237. 

El  Calvario  Park,  109,  148, 165. 

El  Dorado,  229,  254. 

Electric  eels,  224. 

Elizabeth,  Queen,  259. 

England,  Negotiations  with,  147. 

Policy  of,  242. 

Enterprise,  Lack  of,  44. 

Ernst,  Dr.  Adolph,  51,  52,  64, 103. 
Essequibo  River,  245,  251. 

Exiles,  Venezuelan,  77. 

F 

Falcon,  General,  95, 159. 

Ferdinand,  King,  Policy  towards  Ven- 
ezuela, 3. 

Fires  in  Caracas,  53. 

Floods,  245. 

Food,  186. 

Foreigners  in  Venezuela,  167. 

Forests,  Tropical,  246. 

Fortifications  of  Venezuela,  17. 
French  authority  in  Venezuela,  70. 

Revolution,  Miranda  in,  68, 

Fruits,  185. 

Funeral  customs,  181. 

G 

Galvano,  Antonio,  author,  256. 
Goajiwa  Indians,  128. 

Godfathers  and  godmothers,  155. 
Gold,  Discovery  of,  252. 

Exports  of,  235. 

Legends  of,  254. 

Golfo  Triste,  El,  216. 

Guiana,  British,  245. 

Gumilla,  Father,  author,  255. 
Guzman,  Antonio  Leocadio,  90,  94. 


INDEX 


313 


Guzman,  Antonio  Leocadio,  Father 
of,  91. 

Guzman  Blanco,  7,  9G,  97,  111,  120, 
126,  130,  135,  143,  147,  157,  164, 
171,  199,  204,  207. 

Mrs.,  104. 

II 

Harbors  of  Venezuela,  7. 

Historical  relics,  64,  68. 

History  of  Venezuela,  No  reliable, 
52,  92. 

Holland  cedes  Guiana  to  England,  253. 
Horses,  198. 

Hospitality  of  people,  167. 

Hospitals,  208. 

Hotels  in  Venezuela,  28,  33, 46. 

House  of  Representatives,  119. 
Humboldt,  Baron  von,  220,233. 

I 

Ibarra,  General,  112. 

Ice,  188. 

Illegitimate  children,  160. 

Im  Thurn,  Professor,  247. 
Independence,  Birthplace  of  South 
American,  63. 

Recognized  by  Spain,  6. 

Indians,  156, 248. 

Education  of,  128, 132. 

on  the  Orinoco,  233. 

Irrigation,  186. 

J 

Journalism  in  Venezuela,  176. 

K 

Kingsley,  Rev.  Charles,  Novel  of, 
Westward  Ho!  16. 

L 

Laboring  classes,  160. 

Lafayette,  Marquis  de,  65. 

La  Guayra,  City  of,  15,  18,  216. 


Lake  Maracaibo,  220. 

of  Valencia,  220. 

Las  Tablas,  Town  of,  240. 

Laundries,  59. 

Laws,  Mining,  in  Guiana,  253. 
Legends  of  the  Orinoco,  254. 

Librarv,  National,  51. 

Llanos,  The,  232,  247. 

Lopez,  President,  121. 

Losada,  Diego,  founder  of  Caracas,  4. 
Lotteries,  23. 

M 

Machinery,  Scarcity  of,  60. 

Macuto,  The  watering-place,  26,  105, 
200. 

Manoah,  Mythical  city  of,  254. 

Map,  First  of  New  World,  1. 
Maracaibo,  221. 

Indians,  2. 

Lake,  2,  7,  220. 

Market-houses,  184. 

women,  185. 

Marriage  Rites,  74. 

Masonry,  213. 

Merced,  Santa,  Church  of,  206. 

Militia  system,  132. 

Milk-tree,  The,  190. 

Milton,  John,  258. 

Mineral  Wealth,  236. 

Mining  laws  in  Guiana,  253. 
Miracle-working  Images,  209. 
Miranda,  Francisco,  6,  64,  67,  87, 216. 
Mobs,  109,  137, 139,  142,  148. 
Monagas,  Jose  Gregorio,  President, 
6, 94, 157. 

Jose  Tadeo,  President,  G,  94. 

Money,  System  of,  133. 

Monopolies  in  Venezuela,  240. 
Monroe  doctrine,  Message  on,  261-265. 
Monuments  and  statues,  20,  48,  63, 
72,  79,  90,  106, 109,  111,  112, 114, 
140,  147, 148, 158, 174,  235. 
Morny,  Duchess  de,  104,  107. 

Duke  de,  242. 

Mountain  system  of  Venezuela,  8,  27. 
Municipal  Palace,  Caracas,  63. 
Musical  talent,  152. 


314 


INDEX 


N 

Names  of  Children,  155. 

Napoleon  Bonaparte,  69,  70. 

Negro  families,  156,  159. 

Nevada  de  la  Santa  Marta,  214. 
Newspapers  in  Caracas,  52,  176,  208. 

O 

Obituaries,  Newspaper,  180. 

Ojeda,  Discoverer  of  Venezuela,  1. 
Olnev,  Richard,  Secretary,  254. 

Note  on  Boundary  Dispute,  265- 

290. 

Opera,  106,  151,  170. 

Orinoco  River,  7,  9,  223,  231,  254. 

Valley  of,  223,  232. 

Oysters,  230. 

P 

Paez,  General,  92,  95,  96,  130,  138, 
157. 

Palacio,  Andueza,  President,  122, 
144. 

Federal,  139. 

Pantheon  at  Caracas,  78,  138. 

Paria,  Gulf  of,  226. 

Parisian  customs,  153. 

Partridge,  United  States  Minis- 
ter, 99. 

Pastoral  industries,  8,  188,  241,  250. 
Peculiarities  of  people,  60,  61,  187, 
200,  206,  218. 

Pitch  Lake,  228. 

Pizarro,  Francisco,  2,  255. 

The  banner  of,  73. 

Plantations,  166. 

Plaza  Bulivar,  124,  152. 

Pleasure  resorts,  32,  153. 

Political  parties  in  Venezuela,  98, 
204. 

Organization,  119. 

Politics,  A profession,  163. 
Population,  10. 

Port-of-Spain,  225. 

Porter,  Sir  Robert  Iver,  243. 

Portrait  Gallery,  130. 

Portraits  of  Guzman  Blanco,  172. 


Postage  stamps,  46. 

Postal  service,  39. 

President,  Election  of,  119. 

of  Venezuela,  127,  131. 

President’s  House,  124. 

Press,  Censorship  of,  177. 

Priests,  Ridicule  of,  209. 
Printing-press,  First  in  Venezuela,  6. 
Protestantism  in  Venezuela,  212. 
Public  enterprises,  44. 

Puerto  Cabello,  216. 

Fortress  of,  71. 

Q 

Quito,  232. 

R 

Race  mixture,  156,  159. 

Railway  concessions,  137. 

Railways,  38,  41,  48,  215. 

Raleigh,  Sir  Walter,  229,  254,  258. 
Reception  of  Ambassadors,  125. 
Receptions,  Official,  129. 

Red  “ D ” steamers,  220. 

Religion,  128,  166,  202,  209. 

Reptiles,  227. 

Republic  of  Venezuela  established,  6. 
Residences  in  Caracas,  55. 

Revenues  of  government,  134. 
Revolutions,  6,  66,  121,  130. 

Riots,  137,  139,  149. 

Rivers  of  Venezuela,  7. 

Roads,  197,  199. 

Robinson  Crusoe,  230. 

Rojas,  Dr.  Jose  Maria,  Author,  67. 

Paul,  President,  35,  96,  121, 

124,  127,  128,  139. 

Romance  of  a young  man,  166. 
Roraima,  Peak  of,  246. 

Rothschild,  Baron,  and  Guzman 
Blanco,  115. 

Russia,  Miranda’s  life  in,  68. 

Russell,  ex-Minister  to  Venezuela, 

111. 

S 

Sabbath  observance,  31. 

Salaries  of  officials,  131. 


INDEX 


315 


Salisbury,  Marquis  of,  254. 

Note  on  Boundary  Dispute,  291- 

309. 

Saluzzo.  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
147. 

San  Fernando,  225. 

San  Francisco,  209. 

Santa  Marta,  Bolivar's  death  at,  88, 

221. 

Schomburgk,  Dr.,  233. 

Schools,  50. 

Selkirk,  Alexander,  230. 

Servants,  59,  61. 

Sheep-raising  in  Venezuela,  8. 

Shops  in  Caracas,  154. 

Siesta  in  Venezuela,  35. 

Slavery  of  Indians,  3. 

Slaves,  Emancipation  of,  in  Vene- 
zuela, 6,  157. 

Social  customs,  1G2, 167. 

exclusiveness,  162. 

Soldiers  at  mass,  128. 

Spanish  Main,  The.  214. 

Spence,  English  author,  53. 

States  and  territories,  10,  48. 

Statues  of  Guzman  Blanco,  20. 
Steamers  on  Essequibo,  251. 

to  Venezuela,  11. 

Steamship  lines,  217,  220. 

Street  car  lines,  45. 

Sugar  industry,  245. 

plantations,  227. 

Supreme  Court,  130. 

T 

Tallow-tree,  The,  190. 

Tariff  on  imports,  21,  134,  240. 

Taxes,  134. 

Teresa,  Santa,  Church  of,  207. 
Theatre,  151, 170. 

Tobacco,  236. 

Tobago,  230. 

Tomb  of  Bolivar,  78. 


Tonqua  beans,  241. 

Trinidad,  224. 

Tumeremos,  Town  of,  240. 

Tunnel  from  La  Guayra  to  Caracas, 
43. 

U 

University  of  Caracas,  51, 131,  208. 

Students  of,  147. 

Ursua,  Pedro  de,  257. 

V 

Valencia,  215,  219. 

- — ■ Lake,  8. 

Vanadium,  Discovery  of,  237. 

Vargas,  Dr.  Jose  Maria,  President, 
94,  97. 

Vegetables,  185. 

Velsers,  of  Augsburg,  purchase  Vene- 
zuela, 4. 

Venezuela  loyal  to  Spain,  5. 

Name  of,  2. 

Vermin,  29,  227. 

Vespucci,  Americus,  1. 
Vice-presidents,  119. 

Voyage  to  Venezuela,  12. 

W 

Waldseemiiller  names  America,  2. 
Wars  in  Venezuela,  7,  49. 
Washington,  George,  65. 

Portrait  in  Caracas,  80. 

Statue  of,  140,  174. 

Water  Supply  of  Caracas,  48. 

The  aversion  for,  200. 

Waterfalls,  246. 

Wedding  ceremonies,  74. 

Y 

Yankee  investor,  Anecdote  of  a,  116. 
Yellow  House  at  Caracas,  63. 


THE  END 


IMPORTANT  WORKS  OF  TRAVEL 
AND  DESCRIPTION 


The  Capitals  of  Spanish  America.  By  William  Eleroy 
Curtis.  With  a Colored  Map  and  many  Illustrations.  8vo, 
Cloth,  $3  50. 

The  Spanish=American  Republics.  By  Theodore  Child. 
Illustrated.  Large  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

From  the  Black  Sea  through  Persia  and  India.  Written 
and  Illustrated  by  Edwin  Lord  Weeks.  8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut 
Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $3  50. 

Three  Gringos  in  Venezuela  and  Central  America.  By 

Richard  Harding  Davis.  Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth, 
Si  50. 

About  Paris.  By  Richard  Harding  Davis.  Illustrated. 
Post  Svo,  Cloth,  Si  25. 

Our  English  Cousins.  By  Richard  Harding  Davis.  Illus- 
trated. Post  8vo,  Cloth,  Si  25. 

The  Rulers  of  the  Mediterranean.  By  Richard  Harding 
Davis.  Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 

The  West  from  a Car  = Window.  By  Richard  Harding 
Davis.  Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 

Notes  in  Japan.  Written  and  Illustrated  by  Alfred  Parsons. 
Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $3  00. 

The  Warwickshire  Avon.  Notes  by  A.  T.  Quiller-Couch. 
Illustrations  by  Alfred  Parsons.  Crown  Svo,  Half  Leather, 
Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $2  00.  (/«  a Box.) 

Pony  Tracks.  Written  and  Illustrated  by  Frederic  Reming- 
ton. 8vo,  Cloth,  S3  00. 

A Sporting  Pilgrimage.  Studies  in  English  Sport,  Past  and 
Present.  By  Caspar  W.  Whitney.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth, 
$3  50. 

Dixie;  or,  Southern  Scenes  and  Sketches.  By  Julian  Ralph. 
Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

Mentone,  Cairo,  and  Corfu.  By  Constance  Fenimore  Wool- 
son.  Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  Si  75- 


IMPORTANT  WORKS  OF  TRAVEL  AND  DESCRIPTION 


London.  By  Walter  Besant.  With  130  Illustrations.  Crown 
8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $3  00. 

The  Praise  of  Paris.  By  Theodore  Child.  Illustrated.  8vo, 
Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $2  50. 

The  Danube,  from  the  Black  Forest  to  the  Black  Sea.  By  F.  D. 
Millet.  Illustrated  by  the  Author  and  Alfred  Parsons. 
Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $2  50. 

Riders  of  Many  Lands.  By  Theodore  Ayrault  Dodge, 
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Remington,  and  from  Photographs.  8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges 
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Italian  Gardens.  By  Charles  A.  Platt.  Illustrated.  8vo, 
Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $5  00.  ( In  a Box.) 

Sketching  Rambles  in  Holland.  By  George  H.  Boughton, 
A.R.A.  Illustrated  by  the  Author  and  Edwin  A Abbey.  8vo, 
Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Top,  $5  00. 

The  Borderland  of  Czar  and  Kaiser.  By  Poultney  Bige- 
low. Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

Literary  Landmarks  of  London.  By  Laurence  Hutton. 
With  Many  Portraits.  Post  Svo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

Literary  Landmarks  of  Edinburgh.  By  Laurence  Hutton. 
Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

Literary  Landmarks  of  Jerusalem.  By  Laurence  Hutton. 
Illustrated.  Post  8vo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

Our  Italy.  (Southern  California.)  By  Charles  Dudley  War- 
ner. Illustrated.  Square  Svo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt 
Top,  $2  50. 

Their  Pilgrimage.  By  Charles  Dudley  Warner.  Illustrated. 
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On  Canada’s  Frontier.  By  Julian  Ralph.  Illustrated.  8vo, 

Cloth,  $2  50. 

Our  Great  West.  By  Julian  Ralph.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth, 
$2  50. 


Published  by  HARPER  & BROTHERS,  New  York 

The  above  works  are  for  sale  by  all  booksellers , or  will  be  mailed  by  the 
publishers,  postage  prepaid,  o>i  receipt  of  the  price. 


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